Glassed ELB

[Buggs]

Something I have thought about doing for years, is making a laminated, glassed ELB. I have not seen an example of one and have been curious if anyone has made one? I can see some challenges in design and aesthetics trying to stay true to the traditional shape and tiller. The glass on the belly side handle area and horn nocks need some thought. As does getting a true D shape without rounding off all the glass.

I know ELB's are not very popular. I have not had one for years. Any one piece bows I have made in the past take a nasty set after being well used. But they are fun to shoot! Nothing like watching your entire arrow flight in slow motion, while your limbs are still oscillating like a tuning fork

[bjansen]

I made one about 10 years ago ( I found the old post but pics were not loading). https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=150135.msg2606775#msg2606775

I did include my lay up and stack thickness formula on the post, but if I made another one I would use .010 of taper per inch instead of the .008 per inch in my original.  I made a barrel tapered lam sled such that I could use full length, unspliced laminations.  It was a cool bow...weighed much less than 1 lb in total. 

Would love to see one if you make it.

[kennym]

Brad!! How ya been buddy?

I can see the pics but they have the p bucket logo plastered across em.

[bjansen]

Hi Kenny, been great buddy!  I glued up 8 bows with all my remaining laminations/glass, etc...in 2020...I figured I might as well get them in bow form as they have been sitting for nearly a decade in tubes.  I finished a few of those that I glued up, but mostly have been in that knife shop!! 

I stop in on the bowyers bench every now and then to see what is going on and glad to see so many others have not lost that passion!  You all are continuing to make some awesome stuff. 

[Roy from Pa]

Buggs I'm thinking you been eating too many carrots:)

[Mad Max]

Interesting 

[Buggs]

Buggs I'm thinking you been eating too many carrots:)

Funny thing, thats what my Doc said too

Hey bjansen, thanks for posting that link Nice looking laminated ELB. Those specs are very helpful. Any info is helpful when you are experimenting!
I had calculated .009" per inch for a 68-70" bow, from old archery books I have. Of course thats for a stave bow. I was glad to see your take on the taper. Did you decided on the .010 taper because of the tip bend?

[bjansen]

Yes. I kept my bow super thin (width) and it did not have the ideal curve I was looking for at full draw...the tips needed a bit more whip at .008 per inch. I would try .010 as I think that may be ideal.

[Buggs]

Anything else you would do different next time?

I like to try and think of everything that could go wrong before I start a new project. 

[Mad Max]

ELB Eastern long bow?

[Buggs]

Keep going east till you reach the UK

[bjansen]

Not too much else I would do different!

[Buggs]

Since I was in the mood, I decided to start working on a double taper sled. I soon remembered why I don't have any on hand. They are a pain to make! Got creative with the shimming real fast. Just going to do one side and will have to flip ends of the lams when grinding. Going to use MDF for the actual sled.
[attachment=1]


The advantage of many lams becomes apparent when building a .005" dual taper sled

[Buemaker]

If you with a double taper sled mean a sled that can grind full lenght lams tapering to both sides, there is an easy way to make one. Make a very excact full lenght parallel lam about 1/4 inch thick, use jointer/planer or thickness sander. Seal it with finish so it will not warp or twist. Now glue tapered lams with your desired taper on that parallel lam with the thin ends butting in the middle. I sealed the tapered lams before gluing since I used water based contact glue. I used a small short haired roller to spread the glue. Since the tapered lams I used was 36 inches and I wanted a longer sled, I laid a parallel 6 inch piece in the middle with the same thickness as the thinnest end of the lams. The one I made is very exact.

[Buemaker]

I have also made sleds that make a lam with a .002 or .003 forward taper that goes into a .004 reverse taper, to make kind of an integrated tip wedge. To do this use same method as mentioned in my other post, but now butt the tapered lams with the thick ends meeting.

[Buemaker]

Another way
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=164696.msg2830300#msg2830300

[Buggs]

Hey Buemaker, thanks for the suggestions I thought about stacking some lams, but it was going to take 4 or more to get the taper I was looking for. I decided it would be easier and more accurate to use the stacked tape method. I have only done .002" or less stacking tape. I got to inch #12 of 29, and started looking thru the scrap bin for shims.

I slapped a piece of aluminum on top of my shimmed sled and that will suffice for this one project.
[attachment=1]

[Mad Max]

I have done it the same way but use scrap piece's of wood and my hog sander.
It's a push threw sander, I push about 1-1/2" in a pull it back out and measure thickness and cut it off, I do this over and over. And like buggs I lay a parallel on top with super thin double sided tape.
I've made several  super lam sleds, .002 change in to .005 and so forth like bue said.

[Buggs]

I had to give the sled a run, so I grabbed a 6' piece of Maple and ran it thru the sander. Swapped ends and did it again. Worked good! Checked thickness in a few spots and they were consistent to .002", end to end.
I was shooting for .005" per inch taper and got .0048", so no complaints there either.

I figured this piece would be the back.
[attachment=1,msg3009746]

I knew it was as scrap piece of stained Maple trim, I didn't know it was Tiger stripped!
Might have to rethink my glass selection and go with clear

The dark marks in the center are the saw marks from me not wanting to swap out the crosscut blade

[Mad Max]

Curly Maple always looks good

Saw marks = character