Bloodwood tri-lam

[Powder]

I have been experimenting with bloodwood off and on for the last few months. This one is a tri-lam... Bamboo, American Chesnut, and Bloodwood. It is faster than other bows in comparable weight class that I have made with Osage and Ipe. My first one blew catostrophically, second one was a baby tri-lam for my best girl... Then this one was finished up today.

I am consistantly shooting high with it as it is so much quicker than my other bows... Even shooting the heaviest arrows I own, (680 grainers with 200 grain broadheads)... So far no signs of problems with about 70 arrows through it.

68' NTN, 60lbs. @ 28 inches.

If you are interested in trying a build of your own, Amazon and Etsy sell the wood.

[Powder]

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[Powder]

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[Powder]

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[Powder]

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[Longcruise]

Doesn't even need to shoot.   Gets by very well on pretty.

[Powder]

Thanks! I do like the looks of the wood... Kind of a split from traditional shades of osage or hickory.

[Kirkll]

I like using bloodwood in risers for accent lines and it makes a very stout I beam material. Very dense and typically straight grained. I could see where it would work very well on the belly side of a tri lam.

But the mass weight keeps me from using it for laminations in a glass backed bow with more preload that I expect higher performance from.

But with the bow design you are building, that extra mass weight in the limbs using heavier arrows isn't a factor. Especially with a 60# draw weight.

She's got a nice bent to her...

Kirk

[simk]

Very well done Powder! Nice bow, great bend! I like it.
Idk any other wood species taking less set than bloodwood. It almost acts like glass and 2mm on the belly are sufficient to make a bow. One of my favorites to put on the belly for sure. What I dont like about it is that it clogs my beltsander so quickly....
 

[Powder]

Thanks! I'm ot sure how this one will fair. I am seeing VERY tiny frets... Like super small, the light needs to be just right, and they are still hard to see... I'm not really sure if they are really frets, or something in the clear coat. No change in shape, reflex, set, or strength... So I'm not sure.

It is awfully pretty though.

I tried to take pics, but they don't show up in a picture.

[simk]

I had one of similar drawweight chrysal too....it can happen. Sometimes you need good daylight to examine the frets.
When fretting normally tiller gets off some because and one limb gets weaker and the bow is good for the bin. If that's not the case you could maybe rescue this one by lowering drawweight some.
how wide did you make this bow?
good luck

[Powder]

It's just over 1.5 inches wide at the fades.

[Pat B]

Very nice bow, Powder. Too bad about the frets. 

[Powder]

Not even sure theyare frets yet. No loss of power or shape in the bow, and I cannot feel them with my fingernail... I used spray urethane and deft for the finish... I am starting to wonder if it is something in the finish?

[Pat B]

I hope you are right.

[Kirkll]

Not even sure theyare frets yet. No loss of power or shape in the bow, and I cannot feel them with my fingernail... I used spray urethane and deft for the finish... I am starting to wonder if it is something in the finish?

Using the deft spray lacquer for sanding sealer on wood is not a problem if you use the Urethane over it. But leaving too much lacquer build up on the limbs before covering it could easily cause exactly what you have going there.... i'd try sanding off the finish and just using the Urethane. Probably cure the issue.    Kirk

[Powder]

Thanks!!

[Lungman1]

Powder, how is that beautiful tri-lam working out?  Was the problem the finish or something different?  She is beautiful!

[Powder]

Small frets. No change to weight or shape. May try again. Seems bloodwood is right on the edge of being a good bow wood... I just need to get better at making them.

[Mad Max]

Stick with Osage or Ipe for the belly.