Taper change61 in. Recurve

[Crooked Stic]

61 in. Recurve. Approximately 16 in. working limb. Going from no forward taper to .001 per in.
I am thinking add .016 to the stack for the same weight.
What you all think??

[kennym]

On one hand that sounds reasonable, but on the other that much added stack with no change to taper will make 14 ish lbs on most recurves?

Sorry , no help here , maybe a recurve guy can help ya.  If nothin else , Roy will tell ya something... 

[Mad Max]

All the taper from the center of the riser out to the start of the bending doesn't mean anything.
I think making the stack .008 thicker at the beginning of the working part of the limb would give you the same # bow.
.008 thicker at the start
same thickness at the middle of the working part
and .008 thinner at the end.

[Mad Max]

Let us know what you do and how it turns out 

[Crooked Stic]

Okay I am doing + .008 in the mid part of the working limb my .o16 seemed a bit too much. We will see one limb under pressure. Bout to be out of smoothon

[Mad Max]

Is that one of your Long thin butt wedges?

[kennym]

Okay I am doing + .008 in the mid part of the working limb my .o16 seemed a bit too much. We will see one limb under pressure. Bout to be out of smoothon

Oh crap, my total apologies , Mike!!

I felt like I was forgetting something and I did. Your order by private message!

I guess that's why I like email orders, so it is right there every time I check email til I ship it.

Going in morn and I got the shipping on this one!

Sorry,
kenny

[Shredd]

I am kinda thinking along the same lines as Max...  Although there might be some kind of curve there...  Meaning a little more or less than .008...  But that number sounds like a good starting point to me...

[Jeff tech]

Listening and taking it all in boys
JF

[Crooked Stic]

Yeah Max straight taper wedge. It's bending some. 11 in.
Got to start some where. The tips were a bit stiffer than I like with parallel limb.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Very interested as well. I am currently building 60" 3 piece with .001 taper. 10-11 " wedge.
Been wondering what a .002or .003 taper would do and what stack to get same weights.

My thoughts were to have the middle of the working portion as the data point to compare.
Like Max stated.

I believe the more taper, the stiffer  the early portion will be, and this may be beneficial on longer limbs to keep speed up?

[Mad Max]

Very interested as well. I am currently building 60" 3 piece with .001 taper. 10-11 " wedge.
Been wondering what a .002or .003 taper would do and what stack to get same weights.

My thoughts were to have the middle of the working portion as the data point to compare.
Like Max stated.

I believe the more taper, the stiffer  the early portion will be, and this may be beneficial on longer limbs to keep speed up?

I don't build many R/D's but if you go to a .002 or .003 you have to thing about string angle at full draw also and may need a tip wedge also.

[Mad Max]

Top bow is a Binghams design with .003 taper and parallel width limbs, last 8" are tapered to the nock.
Bottom bow is .005 taper and changes to .002 and has a smaller radius at the recurve, width taper starts at the fades and ends at the nocks.
I want to try my .005/.002 taper and limb width taper also on the Binghams.
Binghams bow is braced to high but that is the only picture I have.
Both bow are similar side by side un braced.

[Shredd]

I definitely like how the bottom bow is bending compared to the top one...  I personally would like to see a hair more bend just before the hooks...  Not much just a hair...

[Mad Max]

Thanks shredd
I like it the way it is 

[Shredd]

I am sure it will shoot and draw nice...  Like I said, "personally"....  I always look at a bow, performance wise...  My thoughts are, after you reach peak performance you can stiffen the limb at base, mid, or tip to further refine the bow's shootability if need be but may lose a few fps in doing so...

   That stiff last third portion will give you a nice smooth draw... I could be wrong but it is my belief you can suck a few more fps out of her by loosening up the last 4 to 5" before the hook...

  Like I said, it is a personal thing...

[Crooked Stic]

That Bingham design been around a long time and one high end guys still use it. I have made a few of them early on. Pretty good performers. Still got the form and thinking about pulling it out.
Prolly getting a string on this tomorrow.

[Mad Max]

That Bingham design been around a long time and one high end guys still use it. I have made a few of them early on. Pretty good performers. Still got the form and thinking about pulling it out.
Prolly getting a string on this tomorrow.

I hope the # comes out for you.
Yes the binghams design makes it easy on a new bowyer, It has a flat riser layup and parallel width on the limbs, all but the last 8".

[Kirkll]

Very interested as well. I am currently building 60" 3 piece with .001 taper. 10-11 " wedge.
Been wondering what a .002or .003 taper would do and what stack to get same weights.

My thoughts were to have the middle of the working portion as the data point to compare.
Like Max stated.

I believe the more taper, the stiffer  the early portion will be, and this may be beneficial on longer limbs to keep speed up?

Unless your draw weight is over 50-55# a recurve limb is going to want to go sideways pretty easily with that much forward taper. Deeper core, narrow hybrid or rd long bow would be fine.

The speed and performance of your limbs is completely dependent on preload string tension at brace that stops mass weight of the forward limb travel clean and transfers the stored energy to the shaft. Your actual limb travel distance plays a big part in this too....

adding forward taper will reduce your limb tip mass weight, but it also changes the whole dynamics of how the limb bends. This is often mitigated by using tip wedges..... You are basically changing the limb design completely.    Kirk

[Crooked Stic]

Thought I typed this earlier but must not have hit Post.
Anyhow besides .001 FT I changed to .040 Gordon's black glass and it must be way stiffer than BP. 040 clr. glass. The mid working part of the limb is .003 thinner than the prll limb. Shooting for 45 and came out 57. So maybe 54 finished without any extra for weight reduction.
So nothing learned here except black is stiffer.