Estimate the Draw Weight

[Dick in Seattle]

Estimate the Draw Weight

So, I've been consulting Harrison's book, the Bingham guides, my horoscope and tarot cards...  I think I need to set a simple beginning standard that I can then vary and work from, and I think I need to drop back to a standard bow for that, rather than continuing to work with a more or less non-standard pattern like my flatbow (which I'll go back to and try again when I have more experience).  Since most of my shooting experience is with Hills, and I have a Hill style form, that makes the most sense.

I want to end up lighter in draw weight for sure... shooting for 33# at 25" (nominally 40@28, judging by the amount of loss I have for my draw on most other bows) and a length of 60" or 62".   I'll probably lay it up longer, than that,  figuring to test and shorten if needed. I'd be comfortable coming in low... I can enjoy shooting as low as 25#, and would than have a basis for going up in weight on future bows, increasing lam thickness and/or glass thickness.   If I come out too heavy, ouch!

I have a pair of .043 glass pieces on hand, and I'm thinking .043 glass, and three .090 lams, tapered .002.   Standard longbow riser length.   Anybody willing to take a shot at estimating what that would end up at for the specs above?  If you think it will come out heavy, what would you change to lighten it?  If light, likewise.  I also thought of a parallel center lam, rather than tapered, but I'm just not sure.

I'm not planning to do another layup for at least another week, and the more input I have to think about, hopefully, the easier the decisions will be.

Dick

[Holm-Made]

Seems like too much total taper to me.  Maybe if they were all .001 taper would be better.  I think you will have a light bow with those specs.  
What length?  I lose 5-6 pounds when I cut an inch off each limb so the length of the bow will make a big difference.

[Dick in Seattle]

sorry, but you lose weight when you shorten the limbs?   I thought that raised the weight.

I'd like to shoot for a length of 60 or 62 inches.  

What would happen if I used a parallel in the middles instead of a taper?  For me at this point, that would be easier.   I don't yet have a sled made up for a .001 taper.

[kennym]

.006 would make real whippy limbs.  I know a guy who uses .004 total taper in 64-66" bows,but they are very narrow,so it bends more easily toward the fades.

I'm still thinkin on my guess.....  :p