Youth Bow buildalong... Finish and Coin added.

[TimZeigler]

I've been working on my first bow/buildalong for the past few months (takes a while when you ain't got much time to yerself).

Design is based on Binghams takedown recurve plans, with my own riser design.

Specs so far: Black Walnut riser, white micarta accents, black walnut lams, and clear glass.

First some shots of my workshop/garage/storage/laundry room.  Its a little tight, but worth it.

 
 
 
 
 

[TimZeigler]

Glueing up the riser I mixed more than enough epoxy just to be sure.  Using Smooth-On is a slippery situation.



Using the bandsaw I riped out a 1/4" wide piece from the riser block.  I rough sanded the micarta, and reassembled the riser.  Baked at 180 degrees for 6 hours, and cooled overnight.


After clean up.

[TimZeigler]

I don't have pics of the form build but its really not difficult.  Here is my finished limb form.



Make sure the center line is truly the center, check and double check.


I used a compound mitre saw to cut my pads.



A good support system is required when building.

[TimZeigler]

Adjusting my drill press table, I set up the correct angle for the limb pad drilling. I won't do it this way again, unless I can find a better way of securing the riser block.  I had problems with it sliding once I got it centered on the drill.




After the screws and alignment pinds were installed.

[Pluck Yew]

Man-O-Man.. this is going to be a very good forum..great build along Tim...more please..

Shawn...

[SoNevada Archer]

Hi Tim!
Your photos are fantastic, I am getting ready to build my first recurve using a Bingham design. Seeing your photos has been a great inspiration.
Thanks agian.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

nice.....

[TimZeigler]

To make the limb template, I used thin gauge steel that I picked up from Lowes.  Thin enough to be flexible but not to thin that it would crease, or be easily deformed.  Measured 1.5 inches wide and ripped it using a metal cutting blade on the band saw. Make sure you find your center line so that you can line up your template accurately.





I used my 1 inch belt sander to clean up the edges and get it down to the rough limb measurements.



Finished template

[TimZeigler]

While I had my metal blade on I went ahead and cut out my riser template as well.  I used 1/8" steel for this one.

Back profile


Side profile

[TimZeigler]

Its good to get the youngins involved as well, my youngest boy was all to eager to help dad.



I sanded my fades down to near paper thickness, I probibly could have gotten them just a hair thinner.

Before


Before top/After bottom


Dry run layup; glass first, then parallel, wedge, taper, then back glass.



Taped down


Fadeout


With the top on, at 55lbs.


Fadeout with pressure applied

[TimZeigler]

I got this tip from another bowyer, and helped tremendously.  When you assemble your pack, drill a small hole close to the end, and insert a small flat head nail.  This will keep your components from slipping and sliding when you do your actual layup.







Components layed out for glue up.
Wipe everything down with acetone, or denatured alcohol to remove any oil residue left by your hands, or any other loose material.  I also took scored my wedge with a hack saw blade prior to cleaning.



Using cellophane wrap, protect your form.  
Place your pack against the alinment pin of your form, and begin to tape everything down, tight.  Never to much tape.




When the pack is secure, trim off your nail flush with a pair of snips, and apply your pressure strip, hose, and top of form.



Pressure applied, shot at the fade.  Look at all that excess glue. This will be an issue.

[TimZeigler]

After cooking in the box at 180, for 6 hours, I let it cool overnight.

After fighting about 30 minute to get the limb out, it finally gives up and whallaaa, a limb is born.  NOW, the issue learned in this lesson.  3 - 1/2" sheets does not equal 1.5 inches.  I knew this prior, but didn't see it as a problem knowing that my micarta strip was 1.5 inches.  What I didn't figure in was that the glue needs someplace to go when is under pressure.  In my case, under the lip of my micarta, successfully locking into place.  I had to use a small chisel and pressure to remove the cured epoxy to release the limb.  

Lip on the form


Limb



Using my spindle/belt sander combo, carefully clean off excess glue.

[TimZeigler]

I had to see what the lams looked like under the glass, so I pulled off the tape for a peek.

[TimZeigler]

Now for the troublesome lip on my form.  I got this tip from the same bowyer that gave me the nail idea, as well as many others.  BONDO.

Keep in mind, when using bondo, hardner is not your friend.  My first attempt at mixing failed in about, oh, 30 seconds.  Setup like a rock on the mixing plate.

This much


makes this much


that turns into this


I also learned that smaller batches work best, with just minimal hardner.  The first batch I applied, setup in about 5 minutes, so I had to sand it and add another batch to even things out.  Did a final sanding to make a nice smooth transition from the micarta, to form.

[TimZeigler]

I repeated the steps for the limb build for the next limb, with the addition of wax the heck out of the form with johnson paste wax.  Any pockholes in the bondo got extra attention with the wax.  The limb came out with little effort.



I traced the limb pattern with my template, as well as my center line.  Sorry, I did not get pictures of the holes being drilled, I used a hand drill opposed to the drill press this time.

After the limbs were cut to rough shape.




After the initial knocks were filed



After working the knocks to even distances so that the string tracked, it went to the tiller tree.  Can you see the stiff side?  That will be my bottom limb.

[TimZeigler]

Side profile



Back profile


Centerlines should always match up

[TimZeigler]

Next is the really fun part; Shaping the riser.

First the rough shape with the bandsaw.






Using the oscillating sander, I knocked down what edges I could, and worked the sight window smooth.
Everything else was pretty much done by hand rasp, and file to create contours, and lines.

[TimZeigler]

The lower limb was way to strong, so some light sanding on the front and back of limb slowly brought the brace within 1/4 inch of the top.  She started to bend nice and even.





I cut the excess limb length off of the limb butts, and sanded them flush with the riser.





I wasn't extremely happy with my riser shape, it looked blocky, and was a bit off balance in its current form, so I went back and carefully re worked my sight window and the belly of the riser.

This is what I was shooting for.

[TimZeigler]

To finish the limbs, I wanted to add a belly overlay and some knock overlays.  I used scrap walnut, and micarta to give me the look I wanted.

NOTE: If you decide to do this, I suggest you laminate the pieces seperately and then add them to the limb.  I tried to lay them up like you would a limb, and this was not the easiest way.

Rough knock


Rough belly


Excess cut off, and sanded to initial shape




Finished knock, although I may rework it a tad to make it smaller.

[TimZeigler]

Thats where its at for now.  Its drawing about 25#@24 inches and shows a little stacking at the 24" mark.  I'm in the midst of final sanding, and will post more when I get to the finishing stages.  Thanks for looking.

Tim