Paper tuning advice?

[Emerald Archer]

Hello all!
New shooter here. I have been shooting for approximately 3 years. I've started off with a Samick Journey (basically the Sage but 2 inches longer). I have been learning as I go, lots of reading, and observing other shooters. I recently decided I would try out paper tuning to find out wood arrows would be useful. I started off by buying a test kit from 3riversarchery. The test kit has 35-40#, 40-45#, 45-50#, and 50-55# - 8 arrows total, 11/32" diameter shafting. 125 grain tip. Shafts are fletched and cut to 29". My bow is 40# and my draw is 28". My nocking point is set at 3/8" and my brace height is set within manufacturer recommendation so I have it at 8". I went to the range and had it setup about 8 feet away from me and I was shooting at shoulder height, straight on. Here is a picture of my results. I had a lot of porpoising and fishtailing! Not once did I get close to a bullet hole with 3 small slits for the fletching. We went through all the arrows again and had the same results. I am consistently drawing to an anchor point, using back tension, holding for about 2-3 seconds, and then releasing. I've had other archers watch my form and there's not off with it that should be causing this.


Now that you have specifics, what are your recommendations? Anything clearly off? Any help is greatly appreciated!

[McDave]

Have you tried bare shaft tuning?  Personally, I think bare shaft tuning is better suited to our finger release than paper tuning.  Some people bare shaft tune first, and then paper tune for further refinement.  Of course, there are others who jump right in to paper tuning, and they might be able to better help you with your question (particularly if you weren't looking for advice about trying other tuning methods!)

[moebow]

I think 3/8" for your nocking point MAY be too low, especially with 11/32" shafts.  Start with 1/2 to 5/8" high and see what you get.
And, as always with this type of question we need to know, are you right or left handed??

Arne

[Emerald Archer]

Moebow,

I am left handed.

What you're thinking is along the lines of what I was thinking. I do have another string so I can easily take the brass nock off and put another one on.

McDave,

Nope. I have not tried bare shaft tuning yet. If Moebows simple suggestion does not work, I suppose that would be the next intelligent step to take!

[bhylton]

try a double nock set too if you have not... keeps the arrow from sliding down the string on release. should be able to attach them loose enough to slide on the string for adjusting but tight enough to shoot. good luck!

[nek4me]

In addition to the adjustments suggested.... what are you using for paper? I don't see many feather cuts in it. The paper may be too thick and/or too loose to show the results. I use a sheet of newspaper taped tight over the bottom of a cardboard box with the bottom cut out and an inch or two left around the edges to maintain the box shape and the feather cuts show up nicely.

[Emerald Archer]

To be honest nek4me, I am not sure what exactly the paper is. It is the paper supplied and used at the local archery range. But I will keep this in mind!

New shooter?  Honestly... throw the paper away, set your nocking point about 5/8" high and shoot for several months.

A grossly out of spine arrow will shoot down the middle pretty well.  Shoot and enjoy, learn form, then tune this fall.  

[Roy from Pa]

http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

I'd suggest downloading the print version and refer to it often.

I never could pull off paper tuning any bow when shooting with fingers.  I tip my hat to those that can.  The problem I have is, if you move up or back three feet, you get different reading.

Bare shaft and arrow impact tuning with give you immediate and accurate results.  If you're determined to tune, use that printable version in that link Rob from Pa posted.

[slowbowjoe]

It's a little hard to tell, but it looks to me as though there's no real consistency in how the tears read. For me, that may suggest form. While it looks good to observers, subleties like plucking, bow hand pressure, and string finger pressure have a big effect on arrow flight, and will show o the paper tune.

All of which kind of agrees with what Jim suggested above. Maybe not get too absorbed in fine tuning. I'm not preaching here, I'm no expert. I know my tune is as close as it's gonna get, but still see some arrows fly true, and some kick a little. Which. I think, supports my feeling on it.

I tune by sight (and sound) with a fletched arrow, and confirm with a broadhead. Once in a great while I'll paper tune for a little extra feedback.

[Roy from Pa]

Ken Beck arrow tuning is very good info.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSJ6-HjPMTM&t=677s

[Roy from Pa]

Also Jimmy Blackmon has good info.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOklaPN44TM&t=46s

[Emerald Archer]

I greatly appreciate the feedback I have received. I intend to give it another shot today (pun intended). I'll be sure to share my results.

slowbowjoe,
Quite possible. I have considered posting a video for form check to see what people think.

[Emerald Archer]

As advised above, I did try a higher nocking point. I slowly moved it up to see if that would alter my results and it did not. I still got the same bad paper results.

Looks like I'm going to have to try bare shaft tuning.

[McDave]

Bare shaft tuning is the method of choice for most trad archers.  What is your reluctance to try it?

[BMorv]

I discovered that 1st link that Roy posted a couple years ago when I was getting into traditional archery.  I couldn't imagine it being anymore straight forward than that.  I refer to that page every time I start shooting a new bow.

[BMorv]

*the bare shaft tuning page that is

[Emerald Archer]

No real reluctance McDave. Paper tuning was just the more simple way to go since I had everything available. The trick in this instance will be cutting the shafts down to get them to the right spine. I do not have the proper cutting tools available.

[McDave]

If your draw length is 28" and your arrows are cut to 29", you're not going to want to do much cutting.  I have the same draw length as you, and I prefer to leave my arrows at 29", for consistency in aiming, and also to leave an inch for broadhead clearance.  You should be able to get arrows in tune by adjusting spine and point weight.