Do you guys order the straight cut or the shallow angle cut dymondwood for riser material? Also, everyone claims how hard it is, what type of blade do you use to cut it? Will it tear up a normal blade on a table saw.
I spoke with a bowyer today that told me to stay away from dymondwood and use actionwood because although the Dymondwood is hard, it is also brittle?  
Also, does the actionwood come in as many colors as dymondwood/ I see the color list for Dymondwood but not actionwood on Rutlands website. Any and all advice appreciated, Warden415

ttt

warden, i have never used dymond wood but i have heard a lot of bad things about it and not much good words for what its worth

I have never had it crack in hundreds of bows, but I did have a piece crack just sitting on the shelf! On Rutlands site, the real name for Actionwood is Stratabond.

QuoteOriginally posted by shaft slinger:
warden, i have never used dymond wood but i have heard a lot of bad things about it and not much good words for what its worth

I hope this isn't so as I bought my wife a Morrison ILF dymondwood riser for Christmas.  Great shooter and I am saving up to get one of my own.

I for one think dymond wood is great stuff. I have not seen any failures.

Dymondwood is a very good material for riser. I have seen it develop cracks as with any wood, they are easily fixed with very thin super glue. We have done a lot of dymondwood riser and can only remember one failure, and it was operator error.

I have also made a lot of bows with Dymondwood risers and had zero failures.  Its my #1 choice for riser material.

Java Man

warden:
I'd like to know what "Shallow angle cut Dymondwood" is? I've bought Dymondwood for years and never heard of that!!
Bob

aromaker, from what I can see, the different cuts are basically how the manufacturer glues the stuff up and cuts it? I just wondered what most people use for the risers. I am including a link to the web page that shows pictures of the different cuts. Steve
http://www.rrpwhite.com./dymondwood.htm

You would not use those angled cuts for risers.  The material is weakened too much by that.  Dymondwood with a variety of colors in the same piece, will show through as the riser is shaped.

Java Man

Dymondwood is good stuff. Hard to drill and easy to sand. They say it does not need a finish on it. It gives a riser some weight a good thing in my opinion. Use the best blades you can afford to cut it. Do not crowd it when cutting. I think the zero clearence saw inserts work best.

I've used it on a few bows and have had no problems with it. While it IS hard, it cuts very even. No grain for the blade to try to follow. Just go slow. I also think the straight cuts are best for a riser. You can actually follow the 'grain' to get things symmetrical.

I have had trouble with it cracking when drilling it for installation of a bow bolt.  I was using a forsner bit.  It seemed the hole released pressure.  I could hear it "pop".  I was going slow as to not create too much heat.  Happened to me on 3 risers in a row.  I have since bought a higher quality bit but I thhink I will stick with actionwood for the bow bolt as I'm a little gun shy.  Dymondwood isn't cheap.  Chad

Chad,

I have drilled into dymondwood many times with a carbide Forstner bit, with no issues.  I would expect high speed steel to be dulled quickly in Dymondwood.  I also use carbide tipped band saw blades for the stuff.  

The carbide tipped Forstner bits are under $20 I think.  Band saw blades are a different matter.

Gregg

The bit I had was not carbide.  I suspect that was the problem.  Chad

I've only made one bow with Dymondwood (though the second one has been glued up and is waiting for shaping) and I love it.  As has been mentioned it is heavy, sands well and looks great.  It is hard and tough on blades but nothing to be afraid of.  Cut slowly with a steel band saw blade and you'll be OK.  The shallow angle cut mentioned is mainly used in pen making.  The diagonal stripes look good in those small turnings.  Straight cut would be stronger, but you guys have me wondering if that really matters.  The stuff is more glue than wood and I wouldn't be surprised that the shallow angle cut would still be strong enough for a riser.  Might even make a cool limb under clear glass.  Check out Hut Products for a source and for color charts.