Very slick, Mike!!

Gluing up tomorrow. During dry run today lam scarf joints popped again. Thinking it is from my glue sitting in the garage over winter. Bought new and am letting them sit overnight without using accelerator .

Very nice Stic! Hope you have a speedy recovery from your surgery.

Beautiful bows guys!

I had to refilled the English longbow. I must've had it on the verge to whip tillered, after sanding the tips got soft. About 5# weight loss later the tiller looks better and feels good to shoot. More finish going on it now. I can't do much to doll up the bow itself on this one. So I may get a little creative on the handle wrap. I've got some fun exotic leathers and tools to process leather lace. So I may let myself have fun.

Here's the adjusted tiller.

Kyle

Looks like there isn't a strong feeling one way or the other on shipping, so we will keep with the standard of shipping whenever you are ready.  You guys are released to ship as you see fit.  Please remember to PM me your tracking numbers!  Great work everyone.

Well dang, now I gotta make a string...

Saw some baler twine along the road tho...

I mean, you don't HAVE to ship right now...

Bows in the form with heat strips cooking away.

 

Just kiddin Chris

45 more minutes.
30@120
30@130
30@140
45@150

That's my heat schedule. You think the gradual is unnecessary?  Should I just jump to 150 for 2hrs? 

Turned out really good.

Quote from: Watsonjay on April 12, 2025, 05:49:27 PM
That's my heat schedule. You think the gradual is unnecessary?  Should I just jump to 150 for 2hrs?

When doing aerospace composites, we use a ramp rate of 3° - 5° per minute.  While you would be slow on the ramp-up compared to us, we also don't have to deal with air bubbles because we vacuum bag everything.  If I had heat strips for my form (please PM me a link  ) I would do ambient for 2 hours to de-gas, then 90° for 30 minutes just in case, and then straight to 150° for the recommended cure cycle.

Thank you. I will try your way next time. Or at least an hour ambient...I'm a bit impatient. These heat strips have helped with that a lot, 2 1/4 hours is way better than 8 in a hot bix. 😁 PM sent

Honestly we may be overthinking the heat thing. Most times Go about half air press. For a couple of minutes then full press. 70 for me depending on the wood may need to degas for awhile. Then heat er up.to 150 or whatever let it cool to room temp. Let the air out.

I was just reading the ea-40 directions and it said to do a graduated increase in temp.

Quote from: Watsonjay on April 12, 2025, 10:28:44 PM
I was just reading the ea-40 directions and it said to do a graduated increase in temp. Didn't follow to exactly as it said to take to 185. In dont think any of us do that.

Never have done that. But do what you feel comfortable with.

I have never heated Smooth On to more than 125-130 F and have never used that gradual thing.

EA-40™
EA-40™
*NOTE: Product Packaging May Vary
EA-40™ Clear Amber Epoxy is an unfilled low-viscosity epoxy adhesive that can be spread easily in thin films that are almost transparent after curing. EA-40™ has a long pot life and cures in 24 hours at room temperature to provide good mechanical and electrical properties. Mix ratio is 1:1 by volume. When mixed 2A:1B by volume, EA-40™ will achieve greater heat resistance and improved physical properties. EA-40™ is versatile and can be used for many different assembly and repair applications ranging from electrical potting to jewelry assembly to repairing plumbing fixtures. Bow makers have come to know EA-40™ as a tremendous laminating resin. EA-40™ provides highly moisture resistant bonds meeting the performance requirements for Federal Specification MMM-A-188, Type III.

I've used it for years on my wood bows and cure it at 85 degrees over night and never had a failure of the glue joint.
I'd imagine the glass bow guys like a little hotter temps though.

Seems like im overthinking it. Ill ignore their directions.