My 1st. attempt at a board bow.
Board bow  maple backed with hickory. 68"  parrell out to 14" then tapper to 3/8 @knock.
Target 40#@28".
Question: Pic is at 20" ,36#  left kock at 1/2" shorter than right. Should I weaken left limb or is it close enough? I have not pulled past 21" at this time.
Hope pics came though. New to me. Any input is welcome.
John

That looks pretty darn close to me.   Make that left side the bottom and you are good to go 

Nice job on your first board bow.... I'm going to try my first one on the bow swap this year.

Thanks
Going to pull to 28" tomorrow and see where I'm at.

Cool... I'll be following your progress....

I'm going to be experimenting with a very high density bamboo flooring material I found about a year ago. It's called fossilized bamboo. I've build quite a few glass backed bows with it and it's extremely high in tensile strength, and the hardness is unsurpassed on the janka rating.  I think it will be a good candidate for a laminated board bow because it's a woven strand material impregnated with epoxy, and shouldn't have any issues with grain run out, or shaping.

So it's not really a board bow in technically terms, because the material has been manufactured. But it might make an outstanding bow without glass. Keep an eye open on the bow swap thread. I'll post my first experiments on there as I put it together, and take video's of drawing it. Might be some fireworks going on.... Lol

That eliptical tiller looks looks awesome, great job! Cant wait to see it at a full 28" draw. 

Looks damn good, congrats..

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That looks very good.

Looks xcellent to me too. Just stay off the 1st third (off fades) of the right limb and you're on your way!
Jon

If it's a straight limbed bow, Both limbs look a bit soft in the inner third with the right limb a bit more so than the left. I like the see the first 4-5" or so of a limb to look a bit stiff but still working when I have a parallel section in the front profile.

Kyle

Should I thin out the outer limbs ?
I am at 46#@28", my target weight is 40#@28"
I'm redoing  my tillering tree so I can take picture at fun draw. I'll post picture when I get it done.
Thanks for input

What type of draw weight loss do you expect from compression and string follow as you get it broke in? I would imagine these all wood bows do lose some draw weight after awhile.  For the sake of 6#, you may just want to call it good, and start shooting it...

When I'm tillering I generally stop 2" short of my intended draw length with the weight I want. Between shooting in and sanding it's generally dead on. Which would equate to about 5-6#. Some bows don't seem to lose any breaking in and I end up a little over weight and some a little more than expected. But if you shoot it in as you tiller out it should be pretty close. Once I get a bow pulling around 22" or so I'll start short draw shooting it to settle in any changes.


But it sounds like your dead on for getting what your wanting.


Kyle

I wanted to shoot it before I took any more off. I'm making antler tip overlays before it shoot it.
Made a better tiller tree so I can take pictures at 24,28". I'll post them when I do it.

Quote from: John johnston on February 05, 2024, 08:18:21 PM
I wanted to shoot it before I took any more off. I'm making antler tip overlays before it shoot it.
Made a better tiller tree so I can take pictures at 24,28". I'll post them when I do it.

You want to put several coats on the antler the day before because it will suck up a lot of glue and just pop off.

Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx

Quote from: John johnston on February 05, 2024, 09:55:35 PM
Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx

Deer antler is porous, put some SG on it and a few hours later more again to fill the pores , then SG it to the bow later.

 

John I would shoot the cr_ap  out of it before I spent more time adding tip overlays- dont ask why 

Quote from: Mad Max on February 05, 2024, 11:11:59 PM

Quote from: John johnston on February 05, 2024, 09:55:35 PM
Max
I was going to use superglue. Can you please explain .thx

Deer antler is porous, put some SG on it and a few hours later more again to fill the pores , then SG it to the bow later.

I've got to the point that I just don't use antler tip overlays any more. I've had way to many of them pop off even after sealing them good... Horn material is much safer.

Kirkll
I was going to glue Bubinga on tip with TB3 then deer antler on Bubinga with super glue. Tip is 3/8 "I haven't shaped it yet. Just don't want it to blow up. Lol. Your thoughts?
Thx