Doug R, the one in the pic is just camo fabric.  I sewed it into the proper tube size and then just slipped it on.  I bought a bunch of camo leather from  http://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/  It needs to be lined with some suede to stiffen up, but should look cool and be a little quieter than the plastic tube.

i have one made out of a old plastic flyrod tube and it worked good. and i also made one out of the long tubes that those beef sticks come it that you see in gas stations and conveinence stores. it was really tough plastic and they gave it to me.

I am glad you guys are having fun with these things.I have not used the match sticks on one since putting the plans out there.If you want to use pcv talk to a plumber about getting some schedule 10 drain piping.It is almost as light as the map tubes and will make a good quiver.The one I just finished weights less than two lbs so they don't have to be heavy.That is much lighter than my backquiver.I just use barge cement or a spray contact adhesive when glueing leather or cloth to the tube.A good way to reinforce the opening if useing light weight stuff is to take the left over piece of the tube and cut it into 1 1/2" strips.Turn them backwards from the curl of the tube and glue them in the openning with super glue keeping it open with your clamps.It will stiffen up the tube and keep the opening wide.You material will cover it so you will not see it when done.

 

You can get a great tube by visiting a copy store that does or provides copies for house plans. I like the very thin clear plastic tubes and they usaully cost from 3 to 5 bucks.

check out the library store or anywhere you can find plans hardware. my stepmother use to carry her plans (she's an industrial drawer) in a case looking like your map tubes.

Where do you get the tape that goes around the opening?

Stan

currently(when not at baseball practice or work or working on other things) making one simular to this but using 4" light gauge PVC.  I think I paid $4 or $5 for a  6 foot piece.  may be a little bigger in dia than the plans call for, but should work out fine.  Will post pics if I ever get caught up and finish it.

This project is on my To-Do list.  Just haven't gotten motivated to pursue it yet.  Maybe it's time to get with it.

Marvin

try your local high school art department or a silkscreen printing shop as the film comes packed in plastic tubes of those dimensions with a screw on cap. I have gotten them before to use for my hysdo maps of fishing lakes and topos I hunt with. ...........Mac~

James Wren,

What is the length of the cut at the bottom of the opening?

I got two hard cardboard tubes that I cut 4" at the base of the opening.  I think that's two much.  Let me know would ya please.

Paul

The only way that can be too much is if it weakens your tube too much.The arrows can't come out and a big openning makes getting them in and out easier.It also makes picking a particular arrow if you are carring more than one type easier.Mine are 4".

The tubes that I got are card board tubes that I had around my classroom.  Go figure.  Anyway the first one I cut I made the tube to short.  Couldn't get the arrows out if I had the end capped.  So the next tube I cut I made it 36" long, cut the opening 4" from the bottom and 4" wide.  The length of the opening is 14" long.  I've got some plastic tubes coming in the mail so these will be my prototypes.

Paul

If you guy's like free stuff, go to your local window tinting shop and ask for the plastic tubes the tint comes rolled up on. They come in 18,20,22,24,and 36 inch lengths, and if they do houses/commercial they will have 48 in ect. I made mine using a modified version of James's plans. Used some leather suspenders I never use for the straps. You can use it either slanted like a back quiver or straight up with these suspenders. I covered mine with leftover camo tape from an ATV kit. Flatbowdad

has anyone tried to remove the inside of the simmons roto quiver and use it just like this?curios as if it could be done.never tried the roto quiver but looks interesting enuff.

Dumb question guys . . .do the arrows go in with the  broadheads facing up or down?

Broadheads go down and the fletching is covered.

So the next question is - Is the top 'open' so you can load from there?

I guess I was thinking you may rub the fletching the wrong way feeding them from the bottom.

Ooops - never mind . . saw the plans

The plastic tube is very slick and does not seem to hurt the feathers any.The top on mine is closed.Loading is no problem at all and I built it for wet days so I don't want an open top.I am sure someone has built one that way.I have been amazed at how many people have found that site and built one.I have had emails from 11 different countries that someone was useing one of my quivers. :)I now see at least one at every 3d I go to as well.I am very happy that people can get some use out of it.  

QuoteOriginally posted by James Wrenn:
The plastic tube is very slick and does not seem to hurt the feathers any.The top on mine is closed.Loading is no problem at all and I built it for wet days so I don't want an open top.I am sure someone has built one that way.I have been amazed at how many people have found that site and built one.I have had emails from 11 different countries that someone was useing one of my quivers. :)I now see at least one at every 3d I go to as well.I am very happy that people can get some use out of it.    

James...you should have patented this...