I need help; I read on here a while back the procedures for attaching flint points to cedar shafts but now that I'm about to attempt this endevor I can't find the instructions.I have the points, shafts,turkey pointers,and the device to put the hardwood piece in the end of the arrow.I would just like to reread the instructions again, ANYONE REMEMBER THE ARTICLE I NEED?
Help please.  GREYFOX.

All I do is make a notch in the end of the shaft to fit the point, add some pitch glue, fit the point so the arrow spins well and wrap with sinew, art sinew or thread set in glue. With the pitch glue, if the arrow doesn't spin true after wrapping, I just heat it up a bit and reposition the point til it does spin true.    Pat

I notch the shaft to fit the head, then with it set in that notch I get it to spinning straight. One spinning straight I dribble CA glue in there to hold it in that position. Then come back and use my hide glue and sinew to wrap the head.Here are some heads mounted pre-sinew wrap. The one on the left with CA glue the one on the right with pitch

mickey,
those look great, could you post them up when you get them wrapped? i'm getting ready to do some myself and would like to see the wrappin pattern.
thanks,
dave

Here ya go Dave

Very helpful pics, Mickey - saved them to my "Knapping" folder for visual reference.

I like to mix pitch with a little charcoal and bees wax, and wrap with sinew soaked in hide glue. The slow cooling pitch makes it easier to get the head lined up. Also makes it a lot easier to replace a broken or dull head.

thanks guys, i think i can do it...... those are some helpful pics.
now mick, you better go stomp that snake crawlin across yer shop floor.......    
dave

I know this is a Little Late in the Thread, but What Kind of Sinew do you recommend for such Fine Hafting Work? I have a couple of Arrows I want to make for a Good Doctor I am being Treated by.

I like to use elk backstrap sinew. The long threads make easy work for tying in.

Love that pic (and the arras), Bondo - another "save".

would the artificial sinew work ok? i've got some that's a little thicker and i untwist the strands. hard to tell from the real stuff. maybe soak it in super glue then?
dave

David, sure that would work.

I use mainly ostrich sinew but have used deer sinew as well, the only differernce is in the length.

Thanks Micky & bondo.  I had a few stone points given to me for my black bear hunt in June with the LDB.  Now I'm ready to tackle putting them on some shafts...Jeff

Hey , thanks to everyone that responded to my original post. I too like the pictures and only hope my arrows come out half as nice as those. Thanks again. GREYFOX

So, if I were to Purchase some Back Sinew from say  Lost Nation Archery , there would be enough for 2 Arrows? They have a pretty good sized hunk in their Catalog.

There is alot more sinew in one backstrap sinew than it looks like. One elk backstrap will do many arrows. I've used one to make a sinew string, and have plenty left to halft several arrows.

seperate the artificial sinew into halves or thirds and then twist it up to a smaller piece then wrap it and then slather it with super glue gel

I always feel that it is worth going through a little extra work to use natural halfting material. It is by no means less effective, and is really no harder than useing modern material. This point was halfted using pine pitch and sinew soaked in hide glue. Two years ago I used it to shoot completly through a whitetail, and the point is still as solid as the day I halfted it.  JMO.

I use the same hot melt glue they sell for gluing on field points and broadheads to glue the point to the shaft. I also like to use real sinew mostly because of the shrinking effect when it drys. However, I don't bother to use hideglue when I put on points, I just soak the sinew in warm water and wrap in on wet and let it dry, later I coat it tite bond.

danny