I shoot a Silvertip 66lb at 29".  I use Gold Tips 7595 with a 190 grn grizzly broadhead pluss 20grn brass weight and also add 40 grns to the nock end this gives arrow weight of around 720 grains.  I also use (3) 5 1/2" right helical fletch feathers. I have shot this set up for quite a while and have blown thru elk, moose, bear, hogs, and deer with no problem. It will also shoot very flat out to about 30 yards before starting to drop off.

How do you all glue the inserts? I mean...how do you get the inserts straight? I'm haveing trouble getting those on the shafts. I need some tips.

I have the Sitka's in stock at this time.  The Alaskans and Safari's are on BO.  They are a great shaft.

ak3blade,
   I hav'nt had any problems installing the inserts.  Make sure you have straight cut on your shafts.

Is there a way to desolve the epoxy in order to get the insert out? Out of one dozen shafts i ended up with 3 that are mounted correctly. Does anyone else have this problem?

Sitkas are for bow weights under 55# , Alaskan 50# to 80#,and Safari from 70# to 125# ,i would buy the Alaskan's . i am a new dealer for Grizzly sticks --- herb

Avalanche , couple of things you might try > try them cock feather in . or raise your nocking point a bit .you really should to the bow to the arrows . check out O L Adcocks  website and follow his bow tuning directions . it might be a help --- herb

I have 18 of the alaskans that I built at 31.5 inches to shoot from a 63# wes wallace bow @ 30" draw length.  with the 70 grain brass insert + 20 grain insert weight and 125 grain steel force 2 blade, wraps and 5 inch shield cut feathers, my arrows only weighed in @ about 650 grains.  I couldn't get the bare shafts to fly (at all)!!!! and only got mediocre flight when at last i removed the brass up front and replaced with aluminum. The way you describe your setup i would say the alaskans would be severely under spined. at least that is my experience.  go with the safaris.

I have 18 of the alaskans that I built at 31.5 inches to shoot from a 63# wes wallace bow @ 30" draw length.  with the 70 grain brass insert + 20 grain insert weight and 125 grain steel force 2 blade, wraps and 5 inch shield cut feathers, my arrows only weighed in @ about 650 grains.  I couldn't get the bare shafts to fly (at all)!!!! and only got mediocre flight when at last i removed the brass up front and replaced with aluminum. The way you describe your setup i would say the alaskans would be severely under spined. at least that is my experience.  go with the safaris.

Same for me,I find the Alaskan a little bit under spined for my BW 57# recurve and for my Blacktail VL 61#  arrow 29# standard brass insert and 125 BH

ak3blade---I am not clear as to the problem you experienced with the inserts--were the shafts not cut squarely before the inserts were installed?  Or are you referring to the angle between the taperd adapter  and the broadhead?  I just took my shafts to the local shop and had them cut to length with a regular arrow cutoff saw.

Some tips I picked up may help.  A fellow ganger mentioned that plastic wrap would hold an insert well enough for tuning purposes.  I tried it, and found that a narrow strip (3/16-1/4 inch) draped over the back end of the insert as it was pushed in worked well.  It held while pulling filed points out of 3 different types of foam targets, yet could be purposefully pulled out using a standard threaded insert tool.

I  glued my inserts in with JB Weld----and found that impact on solid stumps broke the rigid bond on several arrows:  the shafts were not damaged, but the insert backed out.  I cleaned them up  with a small file and re-installed them with Quick-Stik ( a new hot-melt from Kustom King)---so far this have held up fine---I think the material is resilient enough to withstand the impact.

jscturkey----I think 1shot1bull is probably correct ---The Alaskans may be underspined for your set up---esp. if you bow is centershot.   I am using them on a longbow--56# at 27 inch draw---cut off to 28 in.  ---with 225 gr. of head screwed into the 70 gr. insert, and 4  5in fletch.  I am presently experimenting with an increase to 250---but I think I have problably reached the limit.    The things sure fly right,  I have lost a few, but have not broken one yet (except the one I hit broadside with a Hex head---that was one charmed, but very scared, squirrel).  Hope this helps your decision.

You guys need to check out this thread:

 http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=070146#000000

You'll need 5/16" doweling and if you make the parallel section of the footing a bit longer with overall length say 10", you can drop down one spine group for a lighter aft section but same total weight for some serious FOC and the most bullet proof setup you've ever seen....O.L.

http://shop.****.com/merchant/bowhuntingstuff

as cheap as $99 for a dozen or if you get lucky,sometimes they will auction and will be alot cheaper. Just got me a dozen in an auction for $55 14 gpi in the 600 spine.

**** = ****

**** + e_bay

Yolla Bolly, I switched to Beman MFX 400's. But thanks for your help.

i do not think the grizzzly stick is a bad arrow. i just think the carbon exp. heritage  is a better arrow. i have shot both out of 4 different bows.
both shoot well for me. however the CE was much more durable. i think we get cought up to much on others hype.
for the extra cost of the GS i would expect it to give me better vision and reduce the shake in my hands.
good luck to you.
j

I think your right Little Jon. I've seen the grizzly stix take a little abuse and they couldn't handle it, but it was when they first came out.I hunt with the carbon express and they are tough.I watched my father shoot at a ptarmigan at 8 yrds and miss,he hit the rock behind him (with a 65lb long bow).He walked over picked up the arrow found the nock and kept shooting.They are heavy and durable.Just another option for a heavy durable hunting arrow!