Make a bomb proof stumping arrow (video)

ishoot4thrills · June 22, 2009, 03:06:00 PM

Man, that was a great video there! Thanks a bunch!

I will be using this method for my arrows. I have brass HIT inserts already installed. If I put the glue inside the footing and on the outside of my carbon arrow, I'm gonna be getting glue inside my carbon arrow. Not good!

Do I have to put glue on the inside of the footing too?

Noelkman · June 22, 2009, 06:03:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Friends call me Pac:
Gorilla Gru is cheaper than Gorilla Glue if you happen to run across some while shopping.

Glad everyone has liked the videos.

Thanks for the video.

Have you tried one using water to activate the Gorilla Glue? I wonder how it would work putting a thin coat on the shaft and just water in the insert. Might expand too much.

Friends call me Pac · June 22, 2009, 06:30:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by ishoot4thrills:
Man, that was a great video there! Thanks a bunch!

I will be using this method for my arrows. I have brass HIT inserts already installed. If I put the glue inside the footing and on the outside of my carbon arrow, I'm gonna be getting glue inside my carbon arrow. Not good!

Do I have to put glue on the inside of the footing too?

I coat both areas that will make contact. Some goes on the shaft and some goes on the inside of the footing. Slide the footing in place and wipe the excess away with a paper towel.

I don't know if you can foot an arrow with an insert in it already, never tried it. Thinking about it I don't think I can do it to my arrows because the lip of the insert rests on the footing. The idea being with the footing firmly glued in place and the insert lip resting on the footing the insert can not be pushed back into the shaft. Otherwise my footing wouldn't make any difference at all.

oldskool · June 23, 2009, 12:20:00 AM

here is a link for different size footings
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=058276

metsastaja · June 23, 2009, 11:53:00 AM

Great work Pac. Very informative and nicely done.

June 23, 2009, 11:59:00 AM

Could you put up a link--I can't get this video from here. Thanks

Kingwouldbe · June 23, 2009, 12:03:00 PM

Pac awesome video, I do everything you do except I don't drop it :p LOL

ishoot4thrills · June 23, 2009, 08:48:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Kingwouldbe:
Pac awesome video, I do everything you do except I don't drop it :p LOL

Now that right there's funny!

:p

Dave Bulla · June 23, 2009, 11:33:00 PM

Great video!

Ya got me thinking...

I'm lazy in general but I'm picky about fit and finish too and watching you sand the shafts by hand to fit the footing gave me an idea that may help. The deburring tool you used got my mind relating to reloading stuff...

I use the old fashioned hammer operated Lee Loaders for some of my rifle hand loading and in straight wall calibers like pistol ammo and my 45-70, there is a case mouth expander that is used to just barely flare the case mouth for easier bullet insertion. (Hold on moderators, I promise, this IS archery related...

)

Anyway, somebody posted inside diameters of the aluminum shafting and they were all from .294 to .317" in the 22xx series of aluminums. I'm wondering if a case mouth expander from something in the .30 to .35 caliber would be just the ticket for belling the end of the aluminum shaft. The cool thing is, if any of you have used a Lee Loader you know that it is a hand held "through" type die. The pistol calibers have a built in case mouth crimp ridge inside. The die could easily be slid down the shaft from the nock end and it would contact the lip of the aluminum shaft just like a case mouth. I bet medium hand pressure would be plenty of force to crimp the aluminum footing nicely and remove the "bell" that was put on it initially.

Just had another thought... I'm SURE it will work for footing woodies in the 23/64" class. You would use a .357 die as we all know that a .38 or .357 case makes a perfect fit slip on blunt!

You could actually press fit the aluminum footings onto the shaft which should be even stronger. It would be especially beneficial on wood arrows where consistency of roundness and diameter is not as good as carbons.

Unfortunately, I don't have any of these dies in a size that would work. Does anyone have a pistol die set in 30 to 32 cal for the 22XX size carbon arrow footings? .357 would probably work for 23/64 diameter woodies.

p.s.

If we want to keep the firearms/reloading talk to a minimum, pm me instead of posting it here. I'm all for archery only talk here and so far I think it all pertains enough to satisfy the requirements but I don't want to steer it off course.

Dave Bulla · June 24, 2009, 05:05:00 PM

Ok, there's gotta be somebody reading this with the right caliber Lee Loader to verify if it would work.

Any takers?

Jack Guard · January 02, 2010, 11:18:00 PM

This is a great thread. Thought I would brig it back up. Thanks Pac

Iron · January 03, 2010, 12:02:00 AM

This comes at a great time for me....thanks a lot for these videos...

Jason

boog21 · January 03, 2010, 12:09:00 AM

QuoteI don't know if you can foot an arrow with an insert in it already, never tried it. Thinking about it I don't think I can do it to my arrows because the lip of the insert rests on the footing. The idea being with the footing firmly glued in place and the insert lip resting on the footing the insert can not be pushed back into the shaft. Otherwise my footing wouldn't make any difference at all.

Thanks for the great videos. I've destroyed many of my 2117 shafts while stumping.

In your post you said the insert lip rests on the footing. Does sanding the carbon shaft remove enough material to cause the lip of the insert to overlap the aluminum footing?

Buckwheaties · January 03, 2010, 01:14:00 AM

I've used Gorilla glue for other things and have always used water according to bottle directions. It foams and foams while drying. I take it (question) that by applying it as you describe that foaming isn't a problem?? Maybe it's the wayer that makes it foam?

Gapmaster · January 03, 2010, 03:40:00 AM

Looks like a stout arrow--I'm gonna have to make me up some. Good job.

Elkchaser · January 03, 2010, 09:26:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by chupa:
In case some of you do not realize the Easton arrow numbers designate measurements. The first 2 numbers are 64ths of an inch outside and the second set of numbers are the wall thickness in thousandths. So a 2216 is 22/64" outside with a .019" wall.

Great info Rick, but I think you meant the outside wall thickness on this example would be .016".

Thanks for the videos Pac. Well done.

Dale in Pa · January 03, 2010, 10:08:00 AM

Great video Pac. Been doing mine like this for years. I use leftover Smooth On from my bowmaking. I also epoxy my nocks in so they never pop out.

If you do break a nock you can carefully drill out the old one and replace it.

RonH · January 03, 2010, 10:32:00 AM

Great video Pac. I will be trying your system as every thing is frozen solid around here. Hitting a stump is like hitting a rock right now.........

wisconsin wood butcher · January 03, 2010, 11:17:00 AM

that was good .. would/could / should you put a nock ring on a already damaged [wont hold a nock very long] arrow to save it or should i shorten it from that end and refletch?

Bob Walker · January 03, 2010, 11:38:00 AM

Hey Jack, Thanks for bringing this back to the top!

Pac, This is a GREAT Video! Thanks, so much, for taking the time to do it and post it. We used to get quite a few "How To" posts but not as much anymore. This is the way to "Give Back" to tradgang. It really helps the newcomers and old timers alike!! Thanks again!