Once the fit is good, place the splice in the feather clamp, sand, tape, and put in place.



Put it in the feather chopper and WHAM!  your good to go.

Brad.  Thank you.  I have really struggled with this in the past and ended up cheating...lol.
Nice method.
Art

Hey thanks for doing this - one the best tutorials I have ever seen. thank you, thank you.
Jon  

nice tutorial Bard1. Question, do you ever have a problem with fltching that "whistles"? Seems like every time I try this my arrows whistle.

Thanks Bard1.  Really appreciate your time.
Jerry

Bbassi,
 whenever you splice you create the opertunity for increased noise.  Thats one reason why its so imparitive that you have a perfect fit.  If there is any hole at the splice you will get whistling.  If noise is a concern I honestly recomend that a person not use spliced fletching.

the triple mid splice.

Again to start the tripple mid splice you'll need to add some lines to your 2x4.  You'll need 4 lines before you 5 1/2" line.  Here is what my 2x4 looks like.


As before lay out and cut the base feather at 5 1/2"  Then cut out the "frills" just as you did with the middle splice.
Once the base feather is prepaired set it aside.
between the first two lines take the first color splice and cut

, then clean up the ends as usual.


Reapeat the process for the color between the last two midle area lines.

Last take the third color and measure between the two inner lines and cut.  
After you squar up the ends, put the three midle pieces together and test thier fit.

Once you are happy with the fit Test the fit with the base feather.


Just as before, place the three splice pieces in the clamp and sand down.  Tape with fletch tape.  Then place on the base feather as before.


chop to shape and your done!


Well that's it.  I hope you learned and enjoyed the process.  
Derek

Very, Very.......Nice

Impressive!  Thank you for sharing with us!

Great instruction.

This is one of my favorite build-alongs ever!  You forgot some things on your list though.  1500 watts of high intensity quartz halogen light and one or two pair of bifocal glasses (or jewler specs), these are essential for this level of detail.      

Maybe I'll teach my kids how to do this...nah, better buy them already done.  Much safer that way!    

-Brett

QuoteOriginally posted by brettlandon:
This is one of my favorite build-alongs ever!  You forgot some things on your list though.  1500 watts of high intensity quartz halogen light and one or two pair of bifocal glasses (or jewler specs), these are essential for this level of detail.      


-Brett

Thanks Brett!  
If you guys and gals have any questions, please ask away or send me a pm.

Great thread Derek! Thanks so much!

Have you ever tried stripping the membrain and frills off the splice piece and then cutting it to the size you need? I've seen it done this way and wondered if it has any advantages or disadvantages to sanding off the base as you have shown.

Bill

*thinking*  no I have never tried it that way.  At least not on the store bought died turky feathers.  I have done it that way with real wild turky feathers.  I strip the feather off the quill and then splice it in with no sanding.  Your idea has merit BMN.  It would be worth trying.  The potential problem I see is damaging the frill attachment at the membrain but other then that...  Wow thanks I am gonna try this!

i found that mine turned out cleaner if i chopped and flethced the arow first then cut in the splice and use some fly tying scisors to make it all even,  i think it is because i use a az easy fletch kinda rough on the splice.

Thanks Derek, great tutorial!!  I needed another excuse to spend some time in my archery room.

great tutorial.      

good job thanks Brad!      

Thank you for taking the time to teach your craft.

Mutch appreaciated

blueline