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Snake Skin To Fiberglass/Opinions

Started by Mike/MO, January 07, 2007, 09:30:00 PM

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Mike/MO

I bought some snake skins from 3Rivers. On there website they suggested using Barge cement on dry skins to make the bond, but nothing about sealing them after. I also have info about using wet skins with carpenters glue then spraying with varathane to seal.I know it has been discussed here but I was wondering what the thoughts are on the best way to do the skins on a fiberglass bow.  Thanks

Mike
"Don't take life too seriously. It isn't permanent."

Scott Smith

3m spray adhesive, leave the skins dry. Tape off
everything you don't want over spray on and start
at the top, move down in 1/2 inch increments. After
your done use a new razor to trim off the edges.
I use duck tape to remove all the scales and
a brush, always pull in the direction with the
scales. I use water based spray poly in the blue
can to seal. Good luck!
He who sacrifices freedom for safety deserves neither.
~Benjamin Franklin

ethan

I've always used tite-bond 11 and sealed with either true-oil, or fuller-plast.  But I like 4fletch's idea.  It sounds alot simpler.

Mike/MO

Thanks for the reply.

OK, now I have another option. I guess there's more than one way to skin a "snake"

I should have added the skins are frozen. I could dry them out but I don't know how long it would take outside this winter. I'm sure my wife would nix the idea of drying them in the house!

Mike
"Don't take life too seriously. It isn't permanent."

juneaulongbow

I used Titebond (same as Wood Glue I guess) on dried skins that were resoaked.  Then wrapped the limbs in Ace Bandage til dry, trim skins and 2-Ton Epoxy & MEK sprayed on to seal/finish.

Pat B

I personally would not use barge cement. If you don't get it just right, TOO BAD!  It's stuck. TiteBond is a better choice. You have plenty of time to get it where you want it. Once it's dry use whatever finish you would usually use. I like Tru-Oil and/or satin poly spray.   Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

Jason Lester

Titebond 2 Then seal it with a finish. I used a polyurathane if I remember right.

 
Jason Lester

Mike/MO

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll go with the Titebond then spray with poly after drying.

Juneaulongbow--I hope you're not using one on those longbows made by Steve H.   :)  

Mike
"Don't take life too seriously. It isn't permanent."

yleecoyote23

TiteBond III works very nice. Gives you plenty of time to work and adheres and remains flexible very well...Spar Urethane for the finish.... has worked for me on a bunch of em....

 
In the beautiful Davis Mountains and lovin' every minute - Danny

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