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New oven ideas

Started by Appalachian Hillbilly, October 27, 2022, 01:55:36 PM

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Buggs

You using a PID Hillbilly?

I don't get rapid cycling, but it does cycle on and off a lot modulating temp.
Does your controller have ramp/soak function?
Ooo, who, who hangs free


Buggs

I've got a couple of those type units for greenhouse heat mats. Unfortunately they are 110v, which limits your potential heat source. No baseboard element with that unit.
Ooo, who, who hangs free

Appalachian Hillbilly

#23
If you want to run 220 with those, you can use a solid state relay. Did that with my powder coat ovens.

You just have to find one with 120v control side

Buggs

When you say "those" are you referring to the element or the controller?
Ooo, who, who hangs free

Appalachian Hillbilly

Either. I think the Inkbird is rated for 1200 watts.wpuld have to look that up. Baseboards are probably going to be more than that so you would need a relay to use with the inkbird.

The other PID controllers I used had either 10 amp dry contacts or a low amperage 120 out put to run switches, alarms, contractors etc.

Buggs

I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller. Could you share your knowledge of any extra equipment needed for this? I only have so many 220v outlets and it would be great to free one up.

I' using a 18" element, rated at 300w, which is way more than enough for 10cuft of heat box.
Circulation fan is the key ingredient.
Ooo, who, who hangs free

OldRawhide42

What kind of fan to take the heat of the oven ?

mmattockx

Quote from: Buggs on November 03, 2022, 10:32:59 AM
I had no idea you could run 220v off a 120v temp controller.

If I'm understanding AH correctly, he is just suggesting using the controller to trigger a relay that actually handles the power to the heating element. All you would need for that is a relay that will take a 120V signal and handle 220V and whatever amps you need for the element.


Mark

Roy from Pa

Yup all ya need is a 120 volt relay coil with heavier contacts to handle the current draw of the heater assy.

Appalachian Hillbilly

Roy is correct.  The extra relay is basically  a switch that uses the 110 to switch in a set of heavier duty contacts. These can be mechanical relays with coils,  or solid state relays. The solid state usually have a smaller form factor and no moving parts.

If anyone has specific questions,  pm me. This is part of what I do for a living. We have a bunch of extrusion coating and use a ton of heating elements.

Ken

Roy from Pa

I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.

I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.

That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.

Kirkll

Quote from: Roy from Pa on November 04, 2022, 09:16:55 AM
I have 220 volt baseboard heaters in my shop.

I run them off a thermostat which picks the 110 volt relay and that supplies the 220 volts to the baseboard heaters.

That is when I don't have the wood burner cranking.

How big is your shop Roy? I can't imagine using baseboard heaters as being the most cost effective heat source. But.... If you have a wood stove I can see it.

I got rid of my wood stove in my shop and went to a propane heater. It's more cost effective, and a lot less work than muscling wood. I was burning 4-5 cords a year heating with wood. But.... I've got a big uninsulated area to heat. My work area is 24x36 in summer, but I use arctic curtains in winter heating 24x24 with 10' ceilings. (The green plastic is seriously heavy stuff.)

This is what I put in my shop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HvMaPEQbNVckF599A
Big Foot Bows
Traditional Archery
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Stagmitis

Ever consider a mini split system?
Stagmitis

Roy from Pa

My shop is 14 x 28 concrete block with 2x4 walls added on inside, and knowing I was using electric heat, I super insulated the walls and ceiling.

However I have a wood stove also that I use as my main heat, and I need to be careful with it cause it will chase you out. More than once I've had the windows and door open to cool things down.

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