starting a new ALB

[Pat B]

I glued the riser down to the belly...




...then started the tillering of the belly to get a good, even bend before glue up. At floor tiller it looked like she was bending pretty good so I placed her of the form to see just how good. The blocks on the form are 3 1/4" high where the tips rest. Then I draw the handle area down to see how the side view looks in reflex. I still need a little evening up on each limb...

[Roy from Pa]

Pat
At camp now, been here 5 days:)
Prolly going home tomorrow, I can send you some unibond800 when I get home?

[Pat B]

Thanks, Roy. That would be great. Just let me know what I owe you. 
I still have some pre-tillering to do before glue up so at your convenience.

[Roy from Pa]

Ok I'll be in touch.

[Mad Max]

Lookin good Pat
Hurry up Roy, Fed X overnight

[Roy from Pa]

 

[Kirkll]

I have a few questions.... I'm assuming you are flexing your limbs in the direction the bow will be drawn to do your floor tillering and even up the bends top and bottom.

So what exactly are you doing by putting reflex pressure on the limbs? You lost me on that one...

Secondly,  are you planning on doing your backing layup in this reflex position? Sort of a Perry reflex theory?

These board bows are a whole different ball game than glass bows. I'm interested in learning more....   Kirk 

[Pat B]

Kirk, yes, I bend the limb their normal bend direction during floor tiller but this just let me see each limb bend and feel their tension for comparison. I will be gluing the bow up in Patty reflex so I'm checking the bend of the limbs in reflex on the form. Once I get that smoothed out and both limbs bending evenly and together then it will be ready for glue up.

[Mad Max]

It should help it from take to much set with the limbs bending better from the start.

[Pat B]

That's right, Mark. The sooner you get good floor tiller shape the sooner you get to first brace and on out to full draw tiller. It puts less strain on the limbs.

[Mad Max]

You ARE the man 

[Pat B]

Did a little more this morning. Started reducing the limbs more concentrating on the flat areas. Then I put her on the form, bending towards the belly and used Eric Krewson's Gizmo to mark the flat spots so I know where to remove wood. At this point I'm only using a scraper so it goes a lot slower but makes it less likely I screw up. Doing just a little each day also helps to keep me from screwing up.
You can barely see the pencil marks in these pics. Too much glare to see it on here well.

[Buggs]

How far do the limbs need to be drawn for the gizmo to be effective?

[Pat B]

Not far at all. The pencil point is adjustable by screwing it in or out. For shallow bend I have it set barely out.

[Buggs]

So brace height would be enough?

I'm going to have to make one of those

[Pat B]

 My form has 3 1/4" blocks on the ends so that's not much bend.
Eric probably has a "how to" here on TG. Look it up.

[Buggs]

Will do thanks.

I'm still trying to figure out how the bow is on the form bending toward the belly and you are able to use the gizmo in there?

[Pat B]

You use the Gizmo on the belly so it's bent the way a bow normally bends, in deflex. When I add the backing it will be bent the other way, in reflex.

[Roy from Pa]

Just how I do it too Pat.

Here ya go Buggysboy:)

https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108906.0

[Buggs]

OK, I get it You are putting it on a reflexing form, belly up. My mind was stuck on laminating forms.