New bue from a 7000 year old design

[Pat B]

Continuous tiller checks and plenty of exercising with each wood removal is critical to maintain proper tiller. The exercising helps to register the results of the wood removal. I pull the bow on the tree about 20 or so times after each scraping but never beyond the results of the tillering. Once braced for the first time I like to keep the bow braced for a while(called sweating). As a result shooting the bow in doesn't drop the weight like it would without exercising and sweating. It makes it easier to maintain the targeted draw weight.
I'll try to get the tips finished, any decorating done and the Tru-Oil coats applied soon then I'll post the "finished" bow pics.

[onetone]

Thanks for the info guys. Self bows are intriguing. What I am wondering but didn't say well, is do you locate the center of the riser at the center of bow overall or do you locate the arrow pass at the center of the bow?

I look forward to seeing your finished bow Pat.

[Pat B]

Joel, the way I learned to set up a selfbow was to make the lower limb slightly longer than the upper limb. I'd set the arrow pass 1 1/4" above center and the bottom of the handle at 2 3/4" below center for a 4" handle. This will make an asymmetrical bow. Now, however I prefer a symmetrical bow with the center of the handle the center of the bow. For me, it's easier to see proper tiller this way. It really doesn't matter as long as the tiller is right.

[onetone]

Pat-Thanks for the explanation. That explains the differences I have seen in various self bows while on the tiller tree.

[DesM8]

Looking awesome Pat, cant wait to see it once you've got it finished!

[Pat B]

Getting down to the nitty gritty now. I started with 2 applications of Tru-Oil on the handle area. I usually do the handle area first so when I put Tru-Oil on the limbs I can balance the bow on the handle so the finish can dry. Once the handle has dried for a day it's time to add the handle wrap. I decided to go with brain tanned leather for this.
This is a technique I learned somewhere(?). I make 3 or 4 wraps of masking tape around the area where the handle will go then cut down the center of the back...


This will be the pattern for the handle wrap. I lay the tape on the brain tanned leather and mark it out, leaving some extra at the top for a rolled arrow shelf...



I added glue to the inside of the upper handle and rolled it 2 times. I also did a single roll at the bottom to finish that off neatly. I used an awl to put stitching holes on the wrap at the center of the back and stitched it with hemp cord...


...and here is the finished handle wrap with her name, ELG BUE, written in the rune alphabet...

[Buemaker]

Very nice Pat and using masking tape as a template was a good idea.

[Mad Max]

Nice pat
I must try the double and single roll

[Pat B]

I got 2 more coats of Tru-Oil on today. I'll give it another day and do a quick spray of satin poly. Then take some glamour shots. 

[kennym]

Awesome build sir!

[Roy from Pa]

Very nice Pat.

[Pat B]

Done and done!!! 
Here are the final pics of Elg Bue...

[DesM8]

Nice! The grain of that elm looks really pretty in that close-up shot, I've never worked with it

[Bryan Adolphe]

Nicely done Pat ! 

[Pat B]

Thanks guys.
I've only worked with elm a few times but I have been impressed every time, both for sinew backed and selfbows. And, elm does have very nice grain.

[Mad Max]

Nice pat

[Buemaker]

Turned out very good Pat.

[Pat B]

I put another 25 arrows through her this morning. I think she's my fastest bow to date. After unbracing she is holding
2 1/4" of reflex...


Here she is relaxed. Here she holds 3 1/4" of reflex...

[onetone]

That's a fine looking bow Pat. I like the way the green tips sorta merge with the forest background. Thanks for sharing your process.   

[Buemaker]

Nice and some serious reflex. Them Norwegian moose have some strong legs and tendons wading through the deep snow. That Elm must be good too and all this combined with an excellent bowmaker gives results.