Cutting lams and veneers on a Bandsaw

[Mad Max]

I have a Grizzly G0555 14" with the 6" riser insert for 20"

I cut some boo flooring to 1-1/2" wide.
Thickness sanded it on both sides.
I set the fence to about a 1/16" and made 2 cuts, the 2nd cut had saw marks on both sides the 1st one only on 1 side. I used my finger to keep the boo pushed to the fence. If I had a feather board to keep it pushed over it may have done  better.
I marked a line every 2" down the lam and measured the thickness on the 2nd lam.
19 measurement's--17@ .077/.081 thick---1@.074 thick and 1 at .076 thick
I use "The Hog Thickness sander" for veneers and other things also.
I ran the 2nd lam threw the thickness sander 8/10 times and it finished up @.063, no saw marks.
I tune up and angled my fence for blade drift years ago.
These bandsaws have to many parts to be exact so you need to do this.
Tune up your Bandsaw video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=evEr-dRtav0

My bandsaw fence rides on a track on the front of the machine and I set it to the drift.
Bandsaw drift video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYb57CB74B4

[Buggs]

Depending on your saw and how far off of square it is, it can be easier just to eliminate drift by adjusting your tracking.

I was surprised the guy in the first video did not balance check the wheels or overhaul the wheel bearings.

[Mad Max]

Depending on your saw and how far off of square it is, it can be easier just to eliminate drift by adjusting your tracking.

I was surprised the guy in the first video did not balance check the wheels or overhaul the wheel bearings.

As I said  "These bandsaws have to many parts to be exact so you need to do this."
I'm not sure how I fixed mine it was years ago.
I started using a bandsaw back in the early 80's  on steel and always noticed when cutting on a scribed line you had to cock it one way or the other.
And with multiple videos out there I guess it is what it is.

[Crooked Stic]

Your bandsaw is only as good as the blades you buy for it.. I always redraw against the fence for lamps. Always use 6/10 VP 1/2 bimetal on everything. When thay start to dull they will cut funny. Then use them for glass and composites for awhile.

[Buggs]

My bandsaw shook like a washing machine with a bag of rocks in it, on spin. Cuts real smooth after balancing the wheels.

It seems even the best and most expensive bandsaw blades have a limited working life compared to other cutting blades. Must have something to do with the steel required to make them

[Shredd]

Buggs...  My bandsaw also shook a lot...  Do you know what else helps??  a sturdy plywood base vs sheet metal base and using a link belt vs a regular V- belt...

[onetone]

It also helps reduce vibration to take off the blade tension when not in use. The constant pressure creates a low and a high side on the tires, which smooths out eventually but can be annoying at the start.

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

I am horrible about remembering to pull the detention lever on mine when I leave. If I don't, I start it up and let it run for awhile before using it.

[onetone]

Yeah and retensioning before turning on the saw is key too. It'll throw the blade if you forget. I have a magnetic reminder over the power switch on the saw to remind me.

[Mad Max]

Wood slicer blade is all I use for everything, I buy 3 at a time and I don't let the tension off ever .
If you read all the information on the blade it was a one of kind at the time they made it.? 
Works for me 

[onetone]

And thanks for the info and vids on the Wood Slicer bandsaw blade! Ordered one and looking forward to trying it out on my "Vintage" Rockwell bandsaw... we've been together for about 45 years. 

[Mad Max]

And thanks for the info and vids on the Wood Slicer bandsaw blade! Ordered one and looking forward to trying it out on my "Vintage" Rockwell bandsaw... we've been together for about 45 years. 

Older machines are always better. 

[Crooked Stic]

Max you must be old yourself 

[Mad Max]

Max you must be old yourself 

I'm getting there fast