How to/Build along-Footed Riser Templates for the pattern sander--Finished Riser

[Mad Max]

I push the riser blank up to the edge sander to flatten one side and then run it threw the thickness sander to  sand the other side parallel.
I used my paper Template again to line it up to the first stripe in the middle and each end and used the double sided tape to glue the paper template to the riser block.



I cut between the lines and pattern sanded it.
The maple is on the left on the first stripe so I put the 2nd one on the right.
Dry run looks good.



All glued up

[Kirkll]

Noooo
Unless it just scrubby

I cut up about a 1/2 cord of it that had been setting for over 20 years. i did save some for a bit of riser wood, but there was nothing suitable for any staves. Most of this stuff was branch wood that had checked and cracked too much to use.....

Funny thing is... in all these years i've been building bows i can only remember one request for osage and Mac Ebony.  Dad burn thing looked like a bumble bee... LOL

[Kirkll]

looking good Max!

[Mad Max]

Thanks Kirk
I saw a Osage Glass Recurve with Osage veneers and it looked very good.
So I'm going to build one.
I have some Spalted Osage veneers but they are short, I will need 5 to go from tip to tip for the back and belly.

[Kirkll]

I'll bet that stuff darkens up under glass a lot. I know the osage darkens a lot in a year or so. look forward to seeing the finished product.    Kirk

[Mad Max]

Keep it in a bow sock when your not shooting it.

[EvilDogBeast]

This is a great guide Max, outstanding job!  Need to make sure this gets added to the build alongs up top.

[Mad Max]

 

[Kirkll]

I've got a question about your pattern build method. Using epoxy to fill those gaps after shiming them looks like it would work great.

Do you check everything for square first before buttering up the pattern edges? or do you check them afterwards when knocking the boogers off them and sanding the edge?    Kirk

[Mad Max]

On the edge sander the platen and the small roller are square to the table and I clamped them down on a flat table.

I check one of the plywood patterns  for squareness and it looked good before I screw the plexi. to it.
Machinist habit

See all the holes in my table, when I first got the edge sander the table brackets were junk and I wanted my table to be square to the sander.
There is angle iron under there and reinforced brackets to keep it all stable.

[Kirkll]

I was thinking why couldn't you just use 3 lams in your pattern lay up and actually just glue two of them in place as an edge band. It would come out clean and crisp without sanding the epoxy. You think that would work?

The center spacer lam being what ever thickness you like your accent lines. I prefer .050 to.060 and have thinner accent lines.

Kirk

[Mad Max]

I was thinking why couldn't you just use 3 lams in your pattern lay up and actually just glue two of them in place as an edge band. It would come out clean and crisp without sanding the epoxy. You think that would work?

The center spacer lam being what ever thickness you like your accent lines. I prefer .050 to.060 and have thinner accent lines.

Kirk

EDITI'm not sanding the epoxy
I'm  not understanding you

[mmattockx]

I like the turnbuckle for adjusting the table, great idea.


Mark

[Mad Max]

Thanks Mark

Kirk I think I understand now.
My stripe will be 1/8" in my risers, 2or 3 pieces to = 1/8".
For making the template one 1/8" piece wont clamp very easy so I use two.
Your are saying add 2 more to the stack and glue them to the templates, That could work but some times you don't get a good glue up and you need to do it again. look at Reply #19 page 1

[Kirkll]

 Not getting a good glue up the first time around is exactly the reason i suggested it. The shape would already be there with no sanding, and you could just fill in the voids from the side if you think it necessary. I doubt it would be much.

I may give your technique a go here in the near future and try the edge band idea while i'm at it... I've got a bunch of vertical grain Natural bamboo i could used for edge banding.

I really should mill all this natural bamboo into lams and sell it. It's the Hiquera vertical grain material. I don't care for the natural white color of this stuff, and only use it for accent lines now and then.    Kirk

[Mad Max]

Sanded the riser block to 1.5 thick and used some 220 grit on the edge sander to clean up the face. 

[Mad Max]

I got the bow done except for a finish on it.
Spalted Osage

[Appalachian Hillbilly]

Very nice! I need to take the time to make some jigs. Nice work!

[Mad Max]

Nice how-to Max.

Kirk that material in your sample photos looks like Novotext to me, also know as Turbax,Cereron, Resitex or Texolit. Used to buy it by the scrap pound at the Los Alamos salvage yard. Generally amber or orange colored, sorta like ole timey G10.

"Novotext is a trade name for cotton textile-phenol epoxy resin", sounds like Phenolic but can't find any 3/8" thick or so in small quantities, I have used UHMW in the past for other things, its slick and made for wear resistance but it's kind of high $.
??

[onetone]

I don't have a current source for the stuff. Never bought it commercially, only as scrap at Los Alamos. Used it for scales and spacers on knives when I was smithing. Haven't been to the salvage yard in years. Check your PM later today.