My first bow I made by myself.

Started by Deer Slayr, November 28, 2008, 10:39:00 PM

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reddogge

Didn't sound at all testy to me either.
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razorback

Sounded fine to me too. Lets see some pics of the bow again at full draw. that is if you did some work on that top limb. if it shoots great maybe you don't need to work on it, though that spot by the fade looks like it is a candidate for a BANG.
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

michaelschwister

Brandon

If you ever find yourself near Elkton VA, stop by and I will let you pick a few staves out of my osage pile.

Mike
"The best thing to give to your enemy is forgiveness; to a friend, your heart; to your child, a good example; to a father, deference; to your mother, conduct that will make her proud of you; to yourself, respect" - Benjamin Franklin

Deer Slayr

Mike, E-mail sent. Thanks for the offer. Brandon

DCM

Generally on selfbows folks are gonna want to see the width profile and the bow unbraced and rested.  Gives us a sense of how much wood is working and how much set or string follow the bow has.  Also good to know the width at the widest point on the limb, and the lenght, and where the bow started, in terms of set and where finish.  For example, bow was 1" of reflex before tillering, 1/2" of follow after.

Looks like a really nice project.  No small accomplishment to get a 70# selfbow.  I'd say the upper limb needs a little adjustment to correct the stiff spot right off the fade but it looks good.  Also perhaps to adjust the positive tiller, if it is excessive.  Lower limb seems a little stiffer at full draw but if it shoots good and takes equal set on upper versus lower from work that's all that matters.

Show us again when you get the clear on and handle wrapped.

Nice job.  Thanks for posting.

Roy Steele

Looked good laying ther braced up.But at full draw I see some big flat spots.Nothing a scraper and tilling board can't fix.
 Work those flat spots out and you'll have a nice bow.
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