Saint Judes Team Osage

[Dano]

Nice work on the facets Mick. This tread will make a killer tutorial.

['46]

My goodness that looks nice. Coming to the point where Team Osage leader Terry is going to have to give us some more direction before long. This piece of wood, and what Mickey has shown so far looks like the sky is the limit for weight and design. Do ya have a side profile pic Mickey?

I like your whoop de doo bow in the background

[AZStickman]

George... I'd say bring her in around 55-60# for a good hunting bow most anyone could draw....The design is up to you..... I'm sure the wood will be talkin to ya....   :D  Terry

[Huntrdfk]

Good job Mickey, my floor looks like that too, except mine isn't as clean.  That's an interesting piece of wood behind your vice in the floor tillering picture.


David

[the Ferret]

Here you go george,

Side profile

[the Ferret]

I did the initial shaping of the fades but the handle box is square so you can shape the handle how you like, and it should sit well in your tiller tree

[the Ferret]

Yea it will be interesting to see if that crooked thing in the background will  ever make a bow.LOL

I am such an idiot sometimes..trying to work that crooked butt wood.        but it keeps calling to me.

[Shaun]

That thing in the background makes me dizzy, but it does have a certain attraction.  Nice job getting the stave to a bow blank. Looks like it would shoot already - if you could pull 300 lbs. Having fun watching it come to life.

[Guru]

Nice job Mickey!!

[cjones]

ttt

[Linc]

Looks like it's going to be a great bow when finished.

That crooked butt wood as you call it is making me drool.  

[the Ferret]

Guess I should mention why we do those facets like that for any new bowyers that may be following along. The easiest method of removing wood on the belly, is to drawknife or rasp the edge off 1 side, then the other side, then remove the flat or peak in the middle. It also makes it easy to check weight or resistance when floor tillering. Measuring up specific amounts from the back keeps you from getting one side thinner than the other side. Dean Torges explains this very well in his book Hunting the Osage Bow although in Dean's method I think there are only 5 sides with the center of the limb being a peak like the roof on a house. I find it easier to do the 3/8" facets than trying to rasp or drawknife to the center of the 1 1/2" wide limb foor some reason. In the end we end up in the same place, but Dean's method is probably a little more orderly in it's wood removal. That's why Dean is a highly respected pro while I'm a lowly wood hack   :D

[Tom Leemans]

Ahhh now we're getting somewhere!

['46]

Does this mean I have to clean up my shop like Mickey's & Randy's for the pictures?    ....this could turn out to be a lot of work   :D

[the Ferret]

Yea but it's for a good cause George  

['46]

ttt

[cjones]

ttt

[cjones]

ttt

[AZStickman]

Just to add to Mickeys description of facet tillering.... The peak, as he describes in Dean's method,is there initially to help remove as much wood as possible that is not going to be a bow..... It is then rasped flat after the limbs are moving to create the last facet....If you create that facet from the start at the 3/4" thickness you are leaving a lot of wood there that is just going to wind up on the floor... At least that's what I've garnered from using Deans technique..... Terry

[Shaun]

ttt