The "So You Wanna Build a Bow?" Build-Along

4est trekker · February 06, 2010, 11:40:00 PM

Pac'em: That's wenge in the handle lamination. If you check out this post, it'll show you the finished bow:

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=002740

I get a lot of my boards from Menards, which is more midwestern than national, I think. I also have good luck at HD and Lowes. However, you sometimes have to get there when they get their new shipments in to ensure you get the best selection. Also, if there's not a lot of turnover in stock, the same boards can sit there for weeks and months at a time, which can be a bummer if you're limited on wood suppliers.

fish n chicks · February 07, 2010, 01:45:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by 4est trekker:
Yeah...check out page 12. I show you how to do it with little more than a hatchet.

Bro you are out of your nugget if you think I can finesse a hatchet like that.I talked my buddy into letting me hit his band saw up in the am. I just got done laying out the riser form I'd like to see, so we'll see how it goes.

Really dig the wenge in your wife's bow. That looks awesome. Very nice work all around.

bigwood · February 18, 2010, 08:31:00 AM

Hey 4est - thanks a million for creating this build-a-long. I'm humbled by the pictures that have been posted, all great looking bows! I can't seem to rasp my recurves smooth.

Also, thanks to fish n chicks - I'm going to try and duplicate the riser you posted on the bow trade/swap thread.

-Wood

twitchstick · February 19, 2010, 04:06:00 PM

Well I finally found a board that should work. I was shaping the recurve tip out and hit it shortly with my sander and caught the back with it. It is maybe 1/32 deep but should I be worried? Or will it be fine.

PM_Mining · February 20, 2010, 03:26:00 PM

For those that may be looking for the Masakari Ono hatchet in the U.S. here is a source I found.

http://www.duluthtrading.com/28176.aspx?src=T28WSHOP1

Can't tell for quality simply based on the pictures, but have purchased tools from this source before and had no problems

stickytoes · February 20, 2010, 05:52:00 PM

4est , i want to thank you again for the inspiration and the excellent build a long. i just finished shooting arrows from a bow i built at full draw and there simply is nothing to compare to that. i will post pics when i figure out how to do it....thanks again

4est trekker · February 20, 2010, 10:04:00 PM

Twitchstick: Hmmm...good question. The only thing you can really do safely is smooth the transition of the boo-boo out. Then, after you've rounded the limbs' edges, see what the bow's tiller looks like. If it looks like that part of the limb is working too much, then you'll have to thin the rest of the limb down to compensate. I nicked that area with my bandsaw once. I feathered it out and found no ill effects because there is comparatively little work being done here in contrast with the inner third of the limb. Generally, the closer the mistake is to the fades the more prominently it will manifest itself. Good luck, and keep us posted.

PM Mining: Thanks for finding that supplier...that's a steal for that thing!

Happy building, all! Post some pictures!

Bill Sagues · February 20, 2010, 10:05:00 PM

Fish-n-chicks - I just finished my "7th" board bow since first following this excellent build along before the holidays. Check out craigslist and find yourself a bandsaw - it will be the best investment you can make if you are going to keep at it.... best of luck.

JGoemaat · February 23, 2010, 11:42:00 AM

Here are pictures of the bow I built using this build along, the bow turned out phenominal, I am really excited to stalk turkeys with it. The bow is around 52 lbs at 28".

4est trekker · February 23, 2010, 11:28:00 PM

REALLY nice work, Justin. Thanks for posting!

twitchstick · February 25, 2010, 08:35:00 PM

Well the smoothing out job on the transtion of the boo-boo went good. Started tillering it and it seem pretty good so I started to shape the handle then a chip came out on the back. It chiped out on the back side of the fade out portion of the handle. It's about inch long and 1/8 deep so I think she done. It's not in the working portion of the limb but even if backed I think it might spiter further. I would show a pic but the flash hides the boo-boo.

twitchstick · February 25, 2010, 10:13:00 PM

Well I did get one picture that shows it. Its on the right side of the fade out. I did have to say thankyou to 4est trekker for the time you put in .I learned alot. Now I can make strings,string jigs,and

started collecting tools.

4est trekker · February 25, 2010, 11:34:00 PM

Twtichstick: it doesn't look like you rounded over the edges of the bow. That may have given the splinter a starting point. Get back in the saddle and build another! Thanks for posting.

fish n chicks · February 26, 2010, 04:31:00 PM

4est... In this pic you say you used a leather wrapped wooden arrow shelf. I was wondering if the shelf was cut into (or out of I guess) your bow, or was it something that was added? If it was added, have you ever done any bows where you cut the shelf out of the riser?

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4est trekker · February 26, 2010, 11:23:00 PM

The shelf is another piece of wood covered with leather that is glued onto the side of the riser. This horsebow would NEVER accept a cut-out shelf, nor does it need one. Yes, I've made bows with cut-out shelfs, but to be honest with you, that's best left for glass and laminated bows. Wooden bows are a different beast. And don't assume bows with shelves cut into them shoot better or more accurately...false. It's the arrow that's the key. I would suggest adding a floppy rest to your bows like the ones shown in this build-along or the pictures below. Much safer, easier, and better-suited to a wooden bow.

But, just for your reference, here are two with cut-out shelves:

fish n chicks · February 27, 2010, 09:30:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by 4est trekker:
The shelf is another piece of wood covered with leather that is glued onto the side of the riser. This horsebow would NEVER accept a cut-out shelf, nor does it need one. Yes, I've made bows with cut-out shelfs, but to be honest with you, that's best left for glass and laminated bows. Wooden bows are a different beast. And don't assume bows with shelves cut into them shoot better or more accurately...false. It's the arrow that's the key. I would suggest adding a floppy rest to your bows like the ones shown in this build-along or the pictures below. Much safer, easier, and better-suited to a wooden bow.

But, just for your reference, here are two with cut-out shelves:

Thanks bro. I understand what you're saying about leaving such things to the more complicated bows. And about the arrows. I also learned the other day, that traditional bows MUST shoot arrows with feather fletchings. I din't know that. I was still using my compound arrows, and getting all kinds of tailwag.

I am currently trying what you did on that one bow with what looks like a wenge laminate but i'm going with yellowheart at the riser & kentucky coffeebean recurve overlays. Glad I saw that bit of encouragement. Looking forward to showing you this one, and brother, I can't thank you enough for the knowledge you've passed on.

bigwood · March 01, 2010, 11:39:00 AM

I'm finally ready to start tillering. Is there a reason not to glue on the nock overlays & cut my nocks before starting the tillering?

Also, I'm curious about the reason for only using feather fletching.

Finally, would you post the dimensions for the leather floppy shelf you made for this build?

Thanks again for all you've posted - I can't remember the last time I've enjoyed working on a project as much as this one!!

fish n chicks · March 01, 2010, 12:04:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by bigwood:
I'm finally ready to start tillering. Is there a reason not to glue on the nock overlays & cut my nocks before starting the tillering?

Also, I'm curious about the reason for only using feather fletching.

Finally, would you post the dimensions for the leather floppy shelf you made for this build?

Thanks again for all you've posted - I can't remember the last time I've enjoyed working on a project as much as this one!!

Great questions! I'm new to this too, but the other day a local dealer explained to me why trad-bows use feather fletchings. It's cause they give. Unlike plastic or regular vanes that are rigid, and can be shot through biscuits and off rests, feathers move, so when passing your sight window, or rest or whatever, the fletchings don't rip off your rugs, or throw tailwag into the mix. I noticed after shooting a few arrows I had from my compound, my rugs were already starting to get peeled off. Feathers = awesome.

WestTexan · March 01, 2010, 11:27:00 PM

Bigwood mine was ready other than stain when I put it on the Tree. The one thing I did do was run a Mic down the limbs to make sure they were even thickness. Maybe I got lucky but it was spot on.

4est trekker · March 01, 2010, 11:40:00 PM

Bigwood: I sometimes use those tie-on nocks just in case I have to pike (shorten) the bow to increase the weight. You can just cut shallow tillering nocks if you want to, but I don't like going to all the trouble Plus, if I have to shorten the bow, sometimes I can't work around the original nocks. Hope that makes sense!

I generally make the floppy rests about 5/8" wide by about 1" long.

Glad your project is going well. Be sure to post some pictures!