50's style recurve 60" NTN Build along

Mad Max · March 31, 2024, 08:28:25 PM

Quote from: onetone on March 30, 2024, 08:03:35 PM
FWTW Mark, the slot in mine is canted away from center and arrow indicates direction of rotation.

I went out there today and looked and mine is the same as yours.

Longcruise · April 01, 2024, 08:20:24 AM

Max, regarding the 1/4 hp, would it be detrimental to go with more hp or possibly be more versatile?

Mad Max · April 01, 2024, 08:41:08 AM

You can only push/pull so hard the 1/4 HP does not bog down any.

Mad Max · April 01, 2024, 05:57:52 PM

The second glue up with the strips looks good.

I have my riser on the template to pattern sand it to fit the glue up form.
Off to the band saw.

I have it close to the pattern and will run it threw.

Nice fit to the form with clear glass and my taper.

Buemaker · April 02, 2024, 08:56:13 AM

Max, I fit the back of the riser the same as you, actually I think I was the one who posted the method in the first place, here on TG. One question, do you use a template when you grind the belly side too? I have been mostly free handid that side.

Mad Max · April 02, 2024, 09:10:46 AM

Quote from: Buemaker on April 02, 2024, 08:56:13 AM
Max, I fit the back of the riser the same as you, actually I think I was the one who posted the method in the first place, here on TG. One question, do you use a template when you grind the belly side too? I have been mostly free handid that side.

Free hand

Mad Max · April 03, 2024, 07:12:16 PM

I have a lot going on with my rental builds so it's going to be slower.

Time to do the belly ramps, I double side tape the pattern on the riser and marked 1/2" lines for 2" to sand the fades, 1/16" at 1" and 1/8" at 2".

Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them.

I use the line on the template as a gauge to keep a nice curve past the 2" mark.

You can get bumps and dips when doing this so I use this flexible rule to see them, just some light pressure on the rule and you can see them.

I did a dry run, looks good
Ready for glue up.

Kirkll · April 04, 2024, 09:08:09 PM

Good looking fades on that baby Max....

Mad Max · April 04, 2024, 10:19:35 PM

Quote from: Kirkll on April 04, 2024, 09:08:09 PM
Good looking fades on that baby Max....

Thanks

kennym · April 05, 2024, 08:27:44 AM

"Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them."

This is a very good plan, don't ask how I know this...

Also fades can cause a lot of problems when not thinned enough, even delamination from hinging right there if not thinned enough.

You doin a fine job my friend!!

dbeaver · April 05, 2024, 08:42:50 AM

I've snapped a few fades off a riser. That'll end your dry fitting right there. Might keep you out of the shop for a few days while your tails between your legs.

Mad Max · April 05, 2024, 09:28:22 AM

Quote from: kennym on April 05, 2024, 08:27:44 AM
"Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them."

This is a very good plan, don't ask how I know this...

You doin a fine job my friend!!

I think you showed me this

Buemaker · April 05, 2024, 11:25:04 AM

Flexible ruler was a good idea and waiting with the tips. I have a couple broken ones in the scrap chest.

Mad Max · April 05, 2024, 07:49:15 PM

Quote from: Buemaker on April 05, 2024, 11:25:04 AM
Flexible ruler was a good idea and waiting with the tips. I have a couple broken ones in the scrap chest.

You can always add a 3/16" overlay on the back of the riser , pattern sand it again, and redo the fades again.

Don't ask how I know

Buemaker · April 06, 2024, 07:13:20 AM

Good idea Max, but I am not sure about gluelines out in the tips where it is some flexing?

Kirkll · April 06, 2024, 12:00:53 PM

Sanding out those long lean fades can be kinda scary sometimes, and I've broken the corners a few times on certain types of wood that is more brittle in nature. I do all mine free hand on the edge sander table using 36 grit paper after drawing the pattern on the block. It's amazing how accurate you can sand these things to a feather edge. If there are any slight wiggles I can feel, I use a spindle sander sleeve with a piece of 1.25" closet rod dowel to smooth things out by hand, and hand sand the very tips with 80 grit flat on the band saw table.

With that being said.... I always use a power lam on one piece bows to extend the fades out further. I just hate having limbs bending hard at the fades with a hinge lock to them. The PW's eleminate that completely and pushes the working portion out a wee bit from the riser fades.

.02 cents worth.... Kirk

Mad Max · April 06, 2024, 05:14:29 PM

Quote from: Buemaker on April 06, 2024, 07:13:20 AM
Good idea Max, but I am not sure about gluelines out in the tips where it is some flexing?

The whole limb bends, it's glued too

Mad Max · May 08, 2024, 05:33:50 PM

I have a lot going on for being retired

Rental building is going to be good for me if it goes threw.

I had to go to The Tennessee Classic also.

My form is setup and ready for glue up.
My mule tap has a loop knot tied in the middle, it helps me starting from the center of the riser.
I use a 1/4" pin for the stack and riser on the back. I use furniture wax in the hole and a inch or so around the hole.

Lam stack are in order and will flip 1 at a time.

More A than B

In the hot box until the morning, door is cracked open and only 120* or so