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Halfting Flint heads to cedar shafts

Started by GREYFOX, March 05, 2006, 08:26:00 AM

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Linc

I use pine pitch and artificial sinew.

Lincoln E. Farr

dosbow56

linc,
how deep is the head set into the shaft? i'm sure it's not but it looks like it's just resting on the tip.
dave
"We watch our arrows fly. We watch our friends' arrows fly. We can't wait 'til the next one flies. It's as though we were watching through a child's eyes the same marvelous magic trick over and over."
Dean Torges "Hunting the Osage Bow"

the Ferret

Dave your shaft should go at least 1/4" past the notches and be tapered to meet the head
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

dosbow56

gotcha, so the shaft should be shaped around each individual head? is it best to just start a slot then working it in and shaping as you go? and, how,or do you, taper the shaft so it's not just sticking out square?
thanks,
dave
"We watch our arrows fly. We watch our friends' arrows fly. We can't wait 'til the next one flies. It's as though we were watching through a child's eyes the same marvelous magic trick over and over."
Dean Torges "Hunting the Osage Bow"

Shakes.602

Tapered with.......Sand Paper, Hasp, or does it matter HOW it gets done?
"Carpe Cedar" Seize the Arrow!
"Life doesn't get Simpler; it gets Shorter and Turns in Smaller Circles." Dean Torges
"Faith is to Prayer what the Feather is to the Arrow" Thomas Morrow
"Ah Think They Should Outlaw Them Thar Crossbows" A Hunting Pal

the Ferret

I actually hold the head next to the shaft where I want it to go and trace around it then cut it with my scroll saw and finish fitting with sandpaper. Done this way the head will actually slide in from the side instead of from the end, because heads are often misshaped and often don't match each other, so yes my slots are shaped for each individual head. A little more work, but worth it in the end to me.

Some just do a V notch to put the head in.
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

Weird Donkey

should someone new to this archery stuff start doing its own arrows from the tip to the head, or should i work my form and shooting before getting into this stuff ?

Linc

Dave,The head is set into the shaft about 1/2".
What I do is taper the end of the shaft before hafting the arrowhead.When I haft I apply the pine pitch into the slot,position the head and true.As the pitch is cooling I form it smooth and coat the tip of the shaft at the same time,giving a smooth transition from the head to the shaft.To apply the art.sinew I heat the pitch a little and press on one end of the sinew.Then I wrap and tack down the other end of the sinew the same way.

I tape 2 hacksaw blades together to cut the slot,then I work the slot to fit the head.I use the pitch to fill in any gaps.
Lincoln E. Farr

ber643

I love this thread and hope it gets put in the how tos Forum after it runs it's course! Hint, hint, hint!   :)
Bernie: "Hunters Are People Too"

Ret'd USMC '53-'72

Traditional Bow Shooters of West Virginia (Previously the Official Dinosaur Wrangler, Supporter, and Lifetime Honorary Member)
TGMM Family of the Bow

Pat B

I taper the shaft first like Linc. Then cut a slot with my bandsaw. Then I open the slot by folding course sandpaper and working through the slot til the head fits. Add pitch glue and place the head(warmed) in and true. Then heat the pitch a little and wrap with sinew, artifical sinew or thread. When done, and before sealing, I take a sharp knife and reduce the point of the taper til it's a smooth transition to the head. Then seal with superglue, TBIII or warm or thinned  epoxy.    Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

ncboman

another excellent and informative thread.

thanks guys.   :)
ncboman

Have Bow >>>-------> Will Travel

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