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Nock and Point taper jig?

Started by Pete Arthur, May 31, 2005, 11:35:00 PM

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Pete Arthur

I was wondering if anybody would care to share their plans for making a point and nock taper jig for a belt sander?
I've searched through the "How To" section and didn't see anything in there.
Thanks in advance-

Fletcher

Pete, send me your address and I'll send you a pic of my rig.  It is pretty basic, but it works.
Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.

"The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing."

"An archer doesn't have to be a bowhunter, but a bowhunter should be an archer."

Huntswithsticks


Eric Krewson

Scrap wood jig with a piece glued on the base to fit the miter slot to keep it in the same place on the table.


Dave Worden

If you have belt snader/disc sander combo, this might help.  If not, sorry to waste your time.

"If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!"

Huntswithsticks

Thanks for the pictures guys.
Eric- I am thinking of making something just like that. I have the disc/belt combo. In fact, I think I have the same one from the looks of it.
If you'd be so kind as to give me a bit more detail on how you made the guides and marked the angles, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks again-

TexMex

Dave,
Do the block fit the different shaft sizes?
Do you have different jigs for each shaft size?
What's the yellow thingy for?

Thanks, like the design.

Eric Krewson

Here is the latest incarnation of my taper jig. The one in the first picture was stolen along with my sander and jointer while we were moving stuff into a new house. Knew who did it but couldn't prove it.

I bought a 6"X48" Griz and built this jig for tapering.I am a measure once and cut twice person so I made a base to fit my miter slot, drew a 5 degree angled line on the base for point tapers put a piece of plywood one the line with one screw attaching it to the base so I could pivot it. I used a scrap piece of shaft to test my taper. I would taper the shaft and fit it into a dirty field point and check to see if the rust from the point covered the entire taper.It took several adjustments to get it perfect, then I secured the guide to the base with several wood screws. I repeated the process with the guide for the nock taper set at 11.5 degrees. I put roll pins in the edge of the jig to act as stops for the shaft but set them for a 11/32 shaft and now make tapered or barrel tapered shafts with 5/16" nock ends and don't use the stops anymore. After tapering a zillion shafts I don't need the stops and get them even every time.

I should add I squared up the whole jig after  I put all the pieces together. I slid the side facing the disc through the sander to get a perfect fit.  

 

TexMex


'46

This takes about 30 minutes to build and works on a typical sanding wheel....George

 
George
_------------->

Huntswithsticks

Thanks for the replies everybody. I knew it was 11 degrees and something... Glad I asked before trying myself!

Van/TX

Gosh, there are many ways to do it.  But a belt/disc sander is a good way to start.  Mine is a bit different than any I've seen but it is very accurate and can adjust to any nock or point  :wavey:  

Nock



Point

Retired USAF (1966 - 1989)
Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009)
And drawing Social Security!
I love this country ;-)

Dave Worden

Tex, I shoot aluminum arrows.  Had to make one set of woodies for one shoot that I attend once a year.  Get the notion that this is a one-time deal?  The guided only work for 11/32 diameter cause that's all I ever intend to make.  I like Eric's for simplicity.  It'll take any diamter.  Like Eric, I don't use the stop any more.  Even before I'd made a dozen, it was EASY to eyeball the length of the tapers. Basically I'd eyeball the skinny diameter at the end of the taper, since you don't want a point.
"If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!"

Dave Worden

TexMex, I forgot to clarify the yellow thing.  It is a depth stop that I had around the shop.  Made to tighten around a drill bit, but I clamped it on the shaft to limit the amount of taper.  It is soft plastic and just twists to tighten.  As I said above, only used it on 3 or 4, then just eyeballed them.
"If I was afraid of a challenge, I'd put sights on my bow!"

Huntswithsticks

Their's some really good ideas here. Thanks for all the posts. I am going to make something up this weekend.

Ranger58

Like the different designs, shows a lot of imagination here.  Think I'll put a couple together this weekend.  I want to taper my 3/8" double tapered poplar dowels to see what kind of hunting sticks I can put together.  I'll have to see if I can borrow my neighbor's belt/disc sander for a while.  Thanks guys!
L8r
Stickbows, Sidelocks and Flyrods, anything to make it more of a challenge!

Bear Kodiak 50@28 "the girl"
Palmer Classic w/ 50@28 and 56@27 limbs
58 Kodiak 45@28
Kodiak 59'er 50@28
1958 Pearson Hunter dual shelf 45@28
and my original longbow I used as a kid.

Van/TX

oops I posted to the wrong thread ;-)...Van
Retired USAF (1966 - 1989)
Retired DoD Civilian (1989 - 2009)
And drawing Social Security!
I love this country ;-)

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