Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: EvilDogBeast on February 10, 2025, 08:25:32 PM
Reminders :deadhorse:
Signup Closes: 7 February 2025
Assignments Sent Out: 11 February 2025
Official Build Period: 12 February 2025 - 2 June 2025
Grace Period: 3 June 2025 - 27 June 2025
Minimum one post per week!
**You MUST post a full-draw picture upon receipt of your bow. NO EXCEPTIONS!**
Good luck everyone. :campfire:
*Build and Grace Period dates adjusted to reflect assignment delay.*
Running behind as per usual. Assignments should be finished up and sent out by tomorrow. Build dates adjusted to reflect.
Will ship Wednesday :laughing:
I started a little early. Fitted a riser up last weekend. Wanta be done before the weather warms up.
Ive been in the mental game of designing my first template and first recurve. Pretty close to picking up form materials
Waiting to hear draw length before I decide to pick a bow design. Im really excited. I was looking back at last years builds and I definitely dont feel worthy. But thanks for letting me in anyhow.
While picking a black locust stave from the shed for a project last weekend I noticed a nice persimmon stave on top of the hoard and I havnt worked persimmon in a while. I also realized I havnt worked a good black walnut bow in a while either. So I'll pick between those when I get a name. I doubt I'll go after anything highly charactered this year.
Kyle
nice kyle, i wouldnt mind any of those if i was the victim.
If you do black walnut do you keep it mostly sapwood, ive read a tiny bit about black walnut selfbows but the only log i ever scored was twisting about a quarter turn and checking
Do any of you guys have a good how to on doing the footed/ribbon cut veneers. I saw a couple of you did that last year. I've never done it but was thinking I could use my laser engraver to make the perfect cuts just gluing back together is unknown to me. Or maybe there is an easier way.
Footed riser https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=154409.0
Quote from: Mad Max on March 19, 2021, 05:15:34 PM
You need to glue up all the stripe pieces to the riser at 1 time, top stripe. Like mike said
Then cut the riser again for the second stripe, bottom stripe
(https://i.imgur.com/uKr33jr.jpg)
I don't know of a build along.
Thickness pieces of .062 or less will do most bends
Maybe this will help.
This is 2 separate builds
blocks are 2x2x 3/4 and 2x2x 3/16
glue them together.
(https://i.imgur.com/AHnxjME.jpg)
Resaw and grind to .050, these need to be sanded
(https://i.imgur.com/h15NO0Z.jpg)
Phenolic ground to .0375---total stack 1/8"
(https://i.imgur.com/HxQyCdb.jpg)
There is some info here but, same as I said
http://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=152514.100
I apologize, I meant Limb veneers. What is that really white wood in the accent stripes though?
Oh. Grab 2 wood species thick enough to resaw veneers from and wide enough to cover you bow limb. Make a pattern, a lot are a soft s curve, Cut out on bandsaw and fine tune with whatever sanding options you have until you get perfect fit, you can now add some fancy mosaic strip, or other thin laminations as you glue the block up. Square up the block when youre done, and resaw the face that has the pattern. Grind it to thickness and there is your veneer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d36fXljZfbQ
thats a clip of someone squaring one up
Okay, so start thick then cut down thin and I guess run through a drum sander to get to veneer thickness. I though you guys used veneers, then cut to shape and glued the ends together. I know rookie but Im learning a lot from you guys. Thank you.
I build a template out of plexiglass and use a 3/16 spiral router bit. Using a plunge router I take small passes until I'm all the way through
That's really slick
Dbeaver - I've made a couple walnut bows of each way. Right under the bark, chasing the sapwood down to 1-2 rings thick so I get a flame of color up the belly, and all heartwood. I can say, the heartwood make a good performer but is more brittle. An all sapwood is more likely to take set and or be a dog in performance. The chase ring is a good middle ground and the best looker with the greens and blues as the rings transition from sap to heart.
Kyle
Almost finished, had to go to work. I'll make the final assignments and send PMs when I get home.
Quote from: EvilDogBeast on February 11, 2025, 11:57:13 PM
Almost finished, had to go to work. I'll make the final assignments and send PMs when I get home.
Thank you for coordinating this, Im sure it takes a bit of work.
Think this is what I'm going with.
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Quote from: 4 point on February 12, 2025, 02:34:58 PM
Think this is what I'm going with.
Is that osage and walnut?
Alright, I think I have everything squared away. PM's going out.
It's Osage but I'm not sure what the other wood is. It's some of the hardest stuff I've ever worked with. Might be milk wood
Quote from: EvilDogBeast on February 12, 2025, 03:09:17 PM
Alright, I think I have everything squared away. PM's going out.
Yeahhhh. Victims Beware!!!
PMs sent. Please hit me up with any questions you may have for victims and I will find out for you. Good luck gentlemen.
Well, I've decided what I'm going to do. I'm going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54" short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I'll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
I'm thinkin but no pics :biglaugh:
Wood selection night!!!
Lets get it started yeah. A pile of osage, a bandsaw, a drawknife, and some time.
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Quote from: Watsonjay on February 12, 2025, 06:59:04 PM
Well, I've decided what I'm going to do. I'm going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54" short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I'll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
Building a 54" bow that draws 31" without stacking may prove to be a challenge. I would take a long look at Ron LaClairs shrew design. That design will do it in a 52" length.
Beware of using too much deflex sweep in your limb design. There is a lot to be said for leaving a flat section to regulate the draw length and change the working limb length without changing limb length. .02 cents worth...
Quote from: Kirkll on February 14, 2025, 12:30:01 AM
Quote from: Watsonjay on February 12, 2025, 06:59:04 PM
Well, I've decided what I'm going to do. I'm going to use a kids bow pattern I got from KennyM and try to modify it to be a 54" short hybrid, long bow/recurve. That will hit 60 pounds and hopefully hit 31 inch draw without stacking too bad. And I'll have to beef up the riser a little Ive only gone to 45 before. Well out of my comfort zone.
Building a 54" bow that draws 31" without stacking may prove to be a challenge. I would take a long look at Ron LaClairs shrew design. That design will do it in a 52" length.
Beware of using too much deflex sweep in your limb design. There is a lot to be said for leaving a flat section to regulate the draw length and change the working limb length without changing limb length. .02 cents worth...
The kids bow template I got from Kenny and and have made a few of with great success is basically a clone of the shrew bow. My buddy waited a year for his when we compared them they were basically the same. I just want to throw a bit more reflex into the tips.
This is a previous one I did
It may look like a clone of a Shrew, but it took me 4 forms and a bunch of bows leaning in the corner to get what I wanted. :biglaugh:
I've never seen a Shrew bow, but have studied many bow designs...
Quote from: kennym on February 14, 2025, 08:31:40 AM
It may look like a clone of a Shrew, but it took me 4 forms and a bunch of bows leaning in the corner to get what I wanted. :biglaugh:
I've never seen a Shrew bow, but have studied many bow designs...
I wasn't trying to say anything, just that the design is already close to the bow he referenced. I love the design, thanks for putting the effort into it and offering to me.
I know, the only reason I went that direction was I saw Gregg Coffee was making a 52" and it was challenging.
My apologies to him and Shrew if it's similar!!
Is a maybe considered a progress? :saywhat:
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How did it do that? Lol
Quote from: kennym on February 14, 2025, 01:08:01 PM
Is a maybe considered a progress? :saywhat:
Those are beautiful
Quote from: kennym on February 14, 2025, 11:09:48 AM
I know, the only reason I went that direction was I saw Gregg Coffee was making a 52" and it was challenging.
My apologies to him and Shrew if it's similar!!
I just went and looked at the Java bows and that elkheart magnum is exactly what I was wanting to do just a bit mire reflex in the tips.
That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54" length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Quote from: Kirkll on February 14, 2025, 08:43:15 PM
That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54" length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Picked up an lvl beam to make a new form today
Still in the "maybe" stage here too. Dug out a piece of 1/4 sawn Bubinga, no distinctive grain character, but so dense and heavy I'm sure it wouldn't float. Maybe a contender for a very strong riser?
Also have a number of good options for some nice veneers, but I have a lot of wood so still moving around all the options till I get a "eureka!" moment. Might be a while? My most recent longbow limbs came in 10# over, so I have some work to do in the meantime.
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Quote from: Noah70 on February 14, 2025, 11:57:02 PM
Still in the "maybe" stage here too. Dug out a piece of 1/4 sawn Bubinga, no distinctive grain character, but so dense and heavy I'm sure it wouldn't float. Maybe a contender for a very strong riser?
Also have a number of good options for some nice veneers, but I have a lot of wood so still moving around all the options till I get a "eureka!" moment. Might be a while? My most recent longbow limbs came in 10# over, so I have some work to do in the meantime.
what is the bottom wood on the second limb from the left? It is really cool, but so is the left
Left to right - Quilted Maple, Jatoba over Zebrawood, Olivewood over Wenge, Paduak over Wenge.
Quote from: Noah70 on February 15, 2025, 12:00:22 PM
Left to right - Quilted Maple, Jatoba over Zebrawood, Olivewood over Wenge, Paduak over Wenge.
I've used zebra a couple times , but haven't seen it with that wide of bands in it, at first I thought it was snakewood but that stuff is way too expensive. Either way beautiful combinations
Hmmmm...
Quote from: kennym on February 15, 2025, 01:12:41 PM
Hmmmm...
The rate your moving, youll be done this week!
Quote from: Watsonjay on February 14, 2025, 09:49:35 PM
Quote from: Kirkll on February 14, 2025, 08:43:15 PM
That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54" length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that... let us know how it comes out.
Quote from: Kirkll on February 15, 2025, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: Watsonjay on February 14, 2025, 09:49:35 PM
Quote from: Kirkll on February 14, 2025, 08:43:15 PM
That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54" length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that... let us know how it comes out.
Hopefully some lucky victim will be the judge of that. :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Quote from: Kirkll on February 15, 2025, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: Watsonjay on February 14, 2025, 09:49:35 PM
Quote from: Kirkll on February 14, 2025, 08:43:15 PM
That Elkheart magnum looks a lot like the ones I used to build in 52-54" length. Good looking design.
Why do you want more reflex in the tips?
Thinking it will help string angle at longer draws to reduce stacking as well as gain a little speed.
Good luck with that... let us know how it comes out.
Just out of curiosity why did you stop making them?
Popularity isn't real high with shorty bows. Most archers want bows ranging from 58-64".
Building custom one piece 52-54" bows, if you miss draw weight by too much, you have to start again, and try and find a home for the others.... Not being real popular I ended up setting on a few for a couple years, and I took very few orders for new ones.... So I just set the form aside and quit building them. Kirk
I'm trying to find a snaky stave that's hiding around here somewhere. But found this piece of curly hackberry in the collection, so I may swap plans to working this stave. It's naturally deflexed, so I may run with this piece and refine it into a reflex deflex profile and give it a hard backing since I don't feel confident of it holding up in tension, though hackberry is tough.
Kyle
Those really short bows are hard to get a good release for me. Even if they draw smoothly to a long draw length the string angle is terrible. A friend of mine shoots two fingers under with his shrew to help with finger pinch.
Quote from: 4 point on February 16, 2025, 04:35:50 PM
Those really short bows are hard to get a good release for me. Even if they draw smoothly to a long draw length the string angle is terrible. A friend of mine shoots two fingers under with his shrew to help with finger pinch.
Ive made a couple for a buddy of mine that would never shoot less than 60" because he couldn't shoot anything shorter accurately and he only shoots the ones Ive made now and even ordered a shrew, then realized he likes mine more. He is only a 29" draw though.
Made sone progress. Bought an lvl beam for new form. Cut up some wood for riser. Think I may I-beam it since it will be a 60# bow. Bird's eye maple, coffee spectraply and myrtle burl.
With the gradient color
Ready to drill some holes
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Ring Chasing Therapy.
Glued up and tweaked kennys kids bow design. Beefed up the riser a little, and added a smidge more reflex at tip(not a ton)front of riser is marked on blank. I noticed a little crack in the maple so avoiding it by shifting riser.
Got the riser glued up today.
Stabilized Spalted Maple with Stabilzed Walnut I-Beam and flare. Red phenolic and black G10 accent. Hope my victim likes a heavy riser.....
Riser for this unit is ready for the next stages. I had made up the block for mosaic strips at a 45 angle, thinking it would create an interesting look if the "dots" were at an angle. Turns out that at .020 thickness you have to squint really hard to see that. Duh !! :banghead:
I'm starting to assemble the lams for the limbs, but if they don't fall into the weight parameters then this riser will be laid aside and the victim will be moving to a recurve rather than a longbow. All good!
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Quote from: Noah70 on February 18, 2025, 11:51:51 PM
Riser for this unit is ready for the next stages. I had made up the block for mosaic strips at a 45 angle, thinking it would create an interesting look if the "dots" were at an angle. Turns out that at .020 thickness you have to squint really hard to see that. Duh !! :banghead:
I'm starting to assemble the lams for the limbs, but if they don't fall into the weight parameters then this riser will be laid aside and the victim will be moving to a recurve rather than a longbow. All good!
Looking sharp!!!
Finished form. Little bit more reflex at tips and thicker riser. This is a bow of kennys original kid bow form
That's a curvy one!
I put a string on my victims bow. It's five pounds over, should be right in the sweet spot when finished. One more set of overlays to glue on.
Quote from: Watsonjay on February 19, 2025, 07:54:47 PM
Finished form. Little bit more reflex at tips and thicker riser. This is a bow of kennys original kid bow form
Be sure and seal that LVL material with shellac real well. Did you sand that thing down to 1.75" thickness?
Thanks, I will. Yes. It was 1.75 took it down to 1.5. Power hand planer then drum sander. Im also going to screw in a metal pressure plate to surface.
I also hav 1/2" bar being delivered tomorrow that I will cut down for pegs
Such great progress all around and some real lookers so far.
Behind on pics but I have a riser glued up and lams ready for taper glass and accents will be on their way soon.
going to spend some extra time between steps to cap the prepped riser blank with stabilcore so when the bow is laid up there's a black accent framing the riser within the bow and continue down between the lams to the tip. A nice accent down the neutral plane of the limb.
Quote from: dbeaver on February 20, 2025, 07:49:29 AM
Such great progress all around and some real lookers so far.
Behind on pics but I have a riser glued up and lams ready for taper glass and accents will be on their way soon.
going to spend some extra time between steps to cap the prepped riser blank with stabilcore so when the bow is laid up there's a black accent framing the riser within the bow and continue down between the lams to the tip. A nice accent down the neutral plane of the limb.
I have some stabilcore too do you guys think it is wasted putting in a narrow limbed longbow or would it add anything to its performance. Thanks for the advise.
It is hindering the peak performance of my bow by adding extra weight without the need for the properties that its made for. But it might gain a few fps from being drop dead gorgeous though
Truth is you can find all sorts of info about that on old threads and even on some very recent ones there's been plenty of discussion on stabilcore. You'll find that some and very few designs will actually ever need it and plenty of folks would tell you to swap it for a layer of carbon of their preference to get more bang for your buck on weight and torsional stability.
Thanks. Ill research more on when to use it
First change of plan of 742
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That's a shame Kenny, kinda looking forward to the first one!
Got my first riser done as far as its going for now, need to concentrate on the limbs for a while. Might require a new form. Starting on a recurve riser as well, just in case.
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Uli, I decided I didn't like the paper phenolic in fades on a one piece, so that riser may have to be morphed into a TD at some point... :dunno:
Hey kenny for some of us with less time on the bench, what didnt you like about the phenoloc in the fades?
Linen phenolic would have been good I think, I just haven't used much paper phenolic but seems like it would be brittle.
I think Bear uses same tho, but I don't want a bow to give up on anybody so prob too concerned for nothing...
Riser block and veneers ready. Weighed that 16" riser block at 3.4 lbs!!!!
I'm always amazed at how much Cactus Juice the soft maple soak up.
Beautiful work, Jon !! Love the grain and the contrast!
I looks amazing. Id gladly be your victim.
Jon I'm not surprised but I am impressed. Absolute beauty on this one
Thanks gentlemen
Those are looking awesome!
I've got a game plan for this weekend. I'm gonna get the curly hackberry roughed out and tillered to brace before I heat treat and prep for a sinew backing. I'm hoping it's ready to go by deadline, if so and it holds up it'll get a birch bark cover over the sinew and see how a ferric nitrate treatment does on the hackberry.
But while it cures I'll start up another bow of some kind. Probably a walnut something or other.
Kyle
Some really nice stuff happening. I have all the overlays and tips glued up. Probably won't be any progress the next week. Weather is gonna be to nice
Not super confident I can nail the weight in the 54" so I am also going to start a 60" RD KennyM bow as backup.
I got a good start the last couple hours. Here's the stave I'm starting with. I've got it mostly thought out, needing cleaned up to the lines. But dang is it going slow compared to normal. This curly grain is a pain in the butt to carve. It's quite chippy
Kyle
Floor tillered and ready for shaping and heat treating. Currently debating on a rawhide backing or a layer of sinew to help it hold together. Im excited to see if it holds up so I can see how the character finishes out.
Kyle
Quote from: Mo_coon-catcher on February 22, 2025, 03:43:29 PM
Floor tillered and ready for shaping and heat treating. Currently debating on a rawhide backing or a layer of sinew to help it hold together. Im excited to see if it holds up so I can see how the character finishes out.
Kyle
wow, you did a lot today!
I don't get many days to work on bows lately so I make as much use of the time I get. I'm hoping to get to another bows tillering after I get done heat treating, shaping is done. I also managed to get the handle for a different project all glued up to shape.
Kyle
Quote from: Mo_coon-catcher on February 22, 2025, 04:28:57 PM
I don't get many days to work on bows lately so I make as much use of the time I get. I'm hoping to get to another bows tillering after I get done heat treating, shaping is done. I also managed to get the handle for a different project all glued up to shape.
Kyle
if I saw that on the ground I'd jump back 10ft
Cool bow Kyle!
This is a little bland I think ...
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Looks pretty dang nice to me
The hackberry is shaped with a mild heat treat. I do an hour on each limb and my toes are a bit frozen. But good enough to get tiller started.
Kyle
I like the way the spalted flows into the riser i would say its a win Kenny very nice !
Some serious snakes on that one, but will that glueline hold? Seem to be very little wood to wood contact, just thick glueline. Just curious.
The glue line is a bit tighter than it looks on the surface. I fit the parts tight enough to not see light through with rasp and scraper, then boiled and clamped the hell out the the pieces. The thick looking glue line is from the top of the Osage having a bit of radius. It's a pretty good contact through most plus will be in a stiff handled are. It's turning into an interesting amalgamation of pieces to make it work. I'll share some pictures once I get it done and cleaned up better.
Kyle
Starting over with a KennyM 60" RD. Will be paduak and canarywood. Post pics when I get further along.
Got everything roughed out.
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Lookin good guys!! I got nothin!! Shop and farm are keeping me busy!
New woods selected. Cocobolo paduak with canary I-beam.
Looks like a few beauties being built.
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Like the 1/4 sawn, John... :thumbsup:
Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
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Quote from: 4 point on March 01, 2025, 12:29:40 PM
Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
looking really nice!! What did you use for the white accent lines? I bought some light hickory to use for accent lines but I don't think it looks that light. Maybe just because it isnt next to darker wood??
I used maple and wenge
Getting close, might try to get a couple more pounds off and I'm gonna call it good.
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Looks great Travis! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Got DayBreaker's new riser cut. Now to glue in maple or hickory accent lines.
She's talking an ea40 bath now with maple accent strips
Progress
Crazy how much whiter maple looks after you glue it in with other woods
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 02, 2025, 01:11:07 PM
Crazy how much whiter maple looks after you glue it in with other woods
Actually it will tone down a bit after you finish it. Also using thinner accent strips doesn't make it jump out so much. I like to run them about .030 myself.
These have 2 accent strips at .030
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I see that, it still looks good. I used a single 050.
Quote from: 4 point on March 01, 2025, 12:29:40 PM
Risers ready for finishing. Little fine tuning left on the limbs
I really like how you shaped under the left side of the shelf
Another setback. Did a dry run on glue up and both the back and belly lams snapped where I spliced them. .120 and .090. Guess I will have to make 4 lams i stead of 2.
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 03, 2025, 09:40:08 PM
Another setback. Did a dry run on glue up and both the back and belly lams snapped where I spliced them. .120 and .090. Guess I will have to make 4 lams i stead of 2.
I don't have much exerience in once piece bows except the one that I have done. But, IMO, that seems like a pretty tight radius to curve a .090 lam let alone a .120 lam around regardless if it is spliced or not.
For those of you that do this regularly, would it make sense to have a 12"-16" section through the middle? Meaning, 2 splices instead of 1 so the splices end up on the belly/back ramps instead of the apex of the riser? I believe you might get away with something like that if you still wanted to use 2 core lams vs 4.
What do you guys think?
Interesting way of looking at it Jon. If you make accurate measurements so that you can still measure your stack height accurately before removing enough from the butt to do the double splices, should work just fine.
More thin lams will bend easier and arguments have been made that will also be stronger because a composite of laminations inherently strengthen the base material. BUT there's the counter argument of more glue equals more weight which could dog down performamce. Another place where each bow design will probably optimize slightly different.
It has been suggested that I make my scarf joint longer. Shallower angle. I guess this will give more of a glueing surface and make the two ends thinner and more flexible??? My interpretation of it. We will see, I'll try today.
That hasn't worked either. Glue keeps popping. I may try pre-heating the bamboo clamping it into the form and let it cool in shape then glue it up??
Which of the lams is going over the back, the 90 or the 120? I'll presume its a taper? If so, prior to making the splice you might try running the butt of each lam through the drum sander on your parallel sled, just enough that you're taking the butt down a bit , but stop before you get down onto the fade. If its an .002 taper, then even 5" will get the butt slimmer by .010, maybe enough ? What glue are you using? CA? Remember that any glue requires a full cure, and even CA benefits from curing overnight.
That is a good idea. Shave it down almost to the fades. I already did the cold forming though. I will do that in the belly though. Yes I had 090 with 002 taper on back. I was using medium CA with acceleratior and then cured a bit more with heat gun. Not super hot.
A piece of advice? - never use accelerator! Use patience instead. If you let that glue cure without trying to speed it up, it will be stronger than the wood.
Ok. Thanks
QuoteMore thin lams will bend easier and arguments have been made that will also be stronger because a composite of laminations inherently strengthen the base material. BUT there's the counter argument of more glue equals more weight which could dog down performance. Another place where each bow design will probably optimize slightly different.
I think you will find that you will get better performance and stability to your limbs with more laminations. The spring back coming out of the form will be less too, which adds a bit of draw weight and increases performance. Those extra glue lines are not adding enough limb mass weight to be noticeable.
.02 cents worth
Thank you. That is definitely the way I will start next time when making a heavier bow.
Should be gluing up tomorrow
I'm stalled out, out of Clear 1.5" glass and not looking good for this month.
I ordered 2 rolls of Bearpaw but it not here yet either.
I have a willow stick picked out... :laughing:
Pretty sure it would be a fine looking willow stick too, Kenny!!
On the subject of reporting - I also have little to report. I changed direction from the initial riser and limbs I had planned - riser is fine but limbs not cooperating (unless victim starts going to the Gym ). So rather than experiment more, its back to what I have charts for.
Spring has come early here, so the annual bucket list (hers, not mine) was posted on the shop door a few days ago. Oddly, Trad Bow Swap was not on it.
Limbs are Wenge/Olivewood veneer, edge grain Bamboo, and edge grain Yew heartwood.
Victim will have to put up with my last old chunk of Rosewood for riser. Going slow!
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Looking good Noah! Sorry to hear your first go came in heavy.
My victims limbs came in heavy as well....Changed the recipe with a little experimenting and BOOM! Came in 12# over his max range. :banghead:
Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
Quote from: dbeaver on March 06, 2025, 08:24:42 AM
Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
Nice! Wish I had a shop like that
Just put it up last year before moving in. Still not used to it. I'm a lucky dude
Haven't glued up yet, waiting on my mule tape to come in mail today. Question, I've always used spar urethane or auto paint in a spray can. I bought some thunderbird epoxy finish to try on this one. Any suggestions or recommendations? I haven't used it or a spray gun before.
That is a good shop, look like you can have a 3D course in there. ;)
QuoteI ordered 2 rolls of Bearpaw but it not here yet either.
Any thoughts on the qulaity you are expecting?
Quote from: dbeaver on March 06, 2025, 08:24:42 AM
Ive been a ghost here while you guys are putting some serious efforts in. Waiting on some materials and while I'm waiting I finally unpacked my shop since moving this summer.
Glued up one bow this past fall but working out of bins and tripping over piles of this and that got old.
Shop is ready for the action when glass gets in.
Wow... A naked shop! You would be wise to think about insulating a portion of that baby and building a mezzanine and spray booth with 10' ceiling on one end so you can hang an arctic curtain in winter and heat a section... I think back when i had bare walls like that and sure wish id have given it more thought and insulated more of it.... I did my lowered ceiling height later on and regret i didn't do more insulation before i filled it with work benches and wood. It wont take long to fill that baby up.... Congrats on the new shop!
I'm on that train Kirk, everything is modular and on wheels until I can get those features squared away. Still need electric out here I'm running on the skeleton setup
Wow! Nice shop! If I had one that size, I could put the bandsaw in one corner, table saw in the diagonal corner, drum sander in the next corner and edge sander in the opposite, and bench in center. I would probably put in about 2-3 miles a day, and never gain a pound! :clapper:
Had a couple minutes waiting on ups so did a bit to keep me out of trouble with swap boss so here's a pic :biglaugh:
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Kenny - what kind of bandsaw is that?
It's a 17" Grizzly, been a good one so far, cut miles of laminations...
Quote from: kennym on March 06, 2025, 06:44:02 PM
It's a 17" Grizzly, been a good one so far, cut miles of laminations...
what do you use for saw blades?
Quote from: dbeaver on March 06, 2025, 03:32:39 PM
I'm on that train Kirk, everything is modular and on wheels until I can get those features squared away. Still need electric out here I'm running on the skeleton setup
How far from the house to the shop are you? Do you plan on running a welder? Reason i ask was that i was able to run a conduit underground about 30 yards to the house and used some 8 gage solid copper wire i had from changing out our well pump wire years ago. That well pump is a 3HP motor that is 450' from the 220 volt power source. I changed out the std. meter base at the house to a meter main base so i had a seperate circuit going to the shop and used an old 100 amp service for the shop. I've got plenty of juice for all my equiptment.
But unless you are familiar with electrical work, i'd highly recommend talking to an electrician for different ideas on how to do it safely. My neighbor just built his new shop a few years ago, and just ran a new overhead 200 amp service to the shop, and the electric company hooked it up. My shop was too far from the road to do a direct hook up without setting a pole.
I built my 36X36 shop back in 96 and put a wood floor in it. Kirk
Luckily my power box is on the property and maybe 16ft from the building. I could also run a similar setup pulling 100amps from my main panel if the power company doesn't want to run me a second meter. 200 to the shop would be nice so I can juice up some sheds in the future in a similar fashion to what you're saying.
Quote from: kennym on March 06, 2025, 05:41:46 PM
Had a couple minutes waiting on ups so did a bit to keep me out of trouble with swap boss so here's a pic :biglaugh:
Are you using the same blades for ripping lams as on that swing jig?
I did a lot of riser footings with a swing jig years ago. I've still got a couple hanging on the wall someplace that I mount my router on.
I had a big job years ago that had about 100 radius top windows and doors to build surrounds and casing for. There were even a few completely round windows. Big Spanish design mansion on the river. That was a fun job. They brought me in early and I taught the framers how get the rough openings built correctly, then came back in the finish stage and did all the trim and two spiral stair cases. There were very few guys out there that wanted to mess with radius work, and I made double wages doing it.... Fun job
Same 3/4" blade, but that's about as tight as she wants...
I was afraid this would happen with the curly hackberry. The grain didn't hold up. The back let go around 18" after bracing. Oh well, I'll use the limbs for handles and such. So time for the backup. This persimmon stave will be perfect for an English longbow.
Kyle
Dang that sucks Kyle. That was gonna be a nice one.
My victims bow is done. Need to make a string and put a rest on it yet but other wise finished.
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I was really looking forward to seeing how it would polish out, but I knew that piece was a major gamble. But I already got that piece of persimmon roughed out and ready to tiller.
And that looks great!
Kyle
This one is moving along pretty quick. Ready for a heat treat and pulling weight at full draw just getting it cleaned up and bending smooth. Now to heat treat and will probably nock an inch off each end. Then I'll refilled back down. It came around rather quickly. About 2 hours from stave to tillered. The picture is a bit shy of full draw, I yoinked it to full draw after the picture.
Kyle
Be starting mine next week.
Im with you Stic, ill taper my lams tonight and post a pic to somewhat follow the swap thread rules :bigsmyl:
Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4" stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
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Quote from: Noah70 on March 08, 2025, 04:41:38 PM
Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4" stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
4 point that looks like a pickup bed. What is it attached to ??
It's a 70 C10
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 08, 2025, 04:54:13 PM
Quote from: Noah70 on March 08, 2025, 04:41:38 PM
Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4" stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 08, 2025, 04:54:13 PM
Quote from: Noah70 on March 08, 2025, 04:41:38 PM
Got the pointy ends done today. Interestingly - all lams were from adjacent slices, all thickness perfect, even the thickness of the limbs after glue up at 3 locations was within 1/2 of a thousand, width identical, etc. But one of the limbs was 3/4" stiffer at initial tiller. Anyone ever had that happen? Sanded out fine, but never had that happen before.
Thats cool adding the riser stripe into the limb tips!
a taper slide during glue up? Maybe that doesn't happen on takedown limbs? I've never made any. Yet!
Well I have the bow in the topless form with heat strips. I like it better than the old way i was doing it. Have at 60 psi but will check in 30 mins as the mule tape is new and so is air hose. I have it set to 120 and am going to ramp it up 10 degrees every 30 mins to 150 then let sit at 150 for 45 mins. Should be good I hope. Crazy how fast you go through 100ft of mule tape.
Ripped some wider glass so I can proceed ... :biglaugh:
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All signs point to a good glue up. I really like the topless method with the firehose. Just need to remember to put the top heatstrip on before I rope everything down. 😡 there seemed to be a lot of bubbles on the out glue, hopefully that doesn't mean there are a lot of bubbles behind the glass
No bubbles so far, yeahhh!
I have picked the riser block and veneers VICTIM
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Update.
Since I missed weight so terribly on the intended bow, I was forced to switch gears.
I had a beautiful walnut riser block layed up with a black actionwood flare. Layed up limbs with carbon on the back and black belly glass.
Riser has a thinner G10 I-beam in it that Im gonna try to cover on the back with full overlays and on the belly, I plan on full over lays except for the grip. This one hit in the weight range nicely.
I made a little progress on the persimmon bow. Took it to a few inches shy of full draw at weight post heat treat and piking. Set is not bad at all at this point. I cleaned up the tooling marks and got the tips ready for the one nocks. The question is, which tip material? I have a couple pieces of blond horn, deer antler, bloodwood, Purple Heart, and ipe I could use. Any preferences?
Kyle
Gonna glue on some curly maple and try to stain it as close as I can to the carbon. Here's a pic of a quick stain sample to get started.
Kyle - I think any of the choices you offered would look awesome as all your work always does. That being said, I would choose the bloodwood.
Jon that maple would look good with clear glass over it.
More progress
Looking at it, i should have made my fades shallower.
Time to get these fit. Probably all I'll get done tonight. I'm leaving enough meat in case I feel the desire to get creative with the tips or keep them simple.
Kyle
Afraid you may have a serious stress point or hinge at the tip of your fadeouts. One inch in from the tips the thickness should not be more than 1/16, less is better.Two inches in no more than 1/8 or less. The fadeouts should be able to flex when bow is bent.
The blocks are fit but need cleaned up now
Kyle
Progress
Lookin good guys
I may have a little time this weekend ...
Put on clear glass, maple, and cocobolo riser overlay for strength and cover the veneer splice. Still needs finishing but came out pretty good. In hindsight I should change my order of operations and glue overlay on before shaping the riser. :banghead:
Putting another layer of clear glass on the overly is over kill really. That maple and coco would have tied those limbs together just by themselves. .02 cents worth.
Quote from: Kirkll on March 15, 2025, 12:49:47 PM
Putting another layer of clear glass on the overly is over kill really. That maple and coco would have tied those limbs together just by themselves. .02 cents worth.
better safe than sorry???
Safer and looks nice to.
Quote from: Kirkll on March 15, 2025, 12:49:47 PM
Putting another layer of clear glass on the overly is over kill really. That maple and coco would have tied those limbs together just by themselves. .02 cents worth.
I will keep that in mind next though, thank you.
Lookin good !
I glued the first one up :laughing: :laughing:
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 15, 2025, 03:50:21 PM
Quote from: Kirkll on March 15, 2025, 12:49:47 PM
Putting another layer of clear glass on the overly is over kill really. That maple and coco would have tied those limbs together just by themselves. .02 cents worth.
I will keep that in mind next though, thank you.
I never cared much for the way glass overlays feather out when finish sanding myself. To each his own i suppose....
Doing recurve overlays on the curl of the limbs like an external tip wedges, i pre- sand those to a feather edge and glue them on while laying up my limbs.
Those overlays come out with a very smooth transition doing it like that, but you need to take great care sanding the extra epoxy at the transition point by hand using a block. i've screwed up a few trying to use my palm sander... :banghead: :banghead:
Quote from: Kirkll on March 15, 2025, 05:27:02 PM
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 15, 2025, 03:50:21 PM
Quote from: Kirkll on March 15, 2025, 12:49:47 PM
Putting another layer of clear glass on the overly is over kill really. That maple and coco would have tied those limbs together just by themselves. .02 cents worth.
I will keep that in mind next though, thank you.
I never cared much for the way glass overlays feather out when finish sanding myself. To each his own i suppose....
Doing recurve overlays on the curl of the limbs like an external tip wedges, i pre- sand those to a feather edge and glue them on while laying up my limbs.
Those overlays come out with a very smooth transition doing it like that, but you need to take great care sanding the extra epoxy at the transition point by hand using a block. i've screwed up a few trying to use my palm sander... :banghead: :banghead:
I just did them with my dremel with a flap wheel on the attached wand. It works good on the tip overlay transitions as well. You still have to be careful.
Yup.... Power tools are time savers and work real well until they don't... Glad to hear it came out good! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I prefer glass or composite on overlays next to glass. And wood on top.
Quote from: Crooked Stic on March 15, 2025, 08:35:09 PM
I prefer glass or composite on overlays next to glass. And wood on top.
Linen phenolic looks decent with wood on top..... I'll bet a have 400 pcs of glass 12'' long from limb cut offs. i just never use them much for overlays. If somebody wanted some i could send some for the cost of shipping.
Kirk
Quote from: Crooked Stic on March 15, 2025, 08:35:09 PM
I prefer glass or composite on overlays next to glass. And wood on top.
I normally wouldn't use glass, but I cut through the belly glass for the handle and wanted to make sure it was strong.
Kirk what color are those cutoffs and how wide
Most of them are 1.75" x12" black glass. But I have a few clear ones too.I use em for stir sticks at times, but haven't been inspired to use them for a different project yet.
A few years ago I used to trim my recurve limbs with my carbide tip bandsaw, and had a whole bucket full of those scraps.it was Halloween time and I got inspired to build some what I called Static Tip spiders.... Check these things out..
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1S11EVekd9Gh8KmY6
Kirk, those sorta look like KennyM):
Roy,Roy :biglaugh:
Got her glued up and had a slippage on lams on one end , was afraid it would screw up the splice being centered right but luck was with me . Found that it was the glass that slipped and not veneer.
Pic for the week ...
Ignore the shop dirt and also some dust on limb ...
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Quote from: kennym on March 16, 2025, 12:17:09 PM
Roy,Roy :biglaugh:
Got her glued up and had a slippage on lams on one end , was afraid it would screw up the splice being centered right but luck was with me . Found that it was the glass that slipped and not veneer.
Pic for the week ...
Ignore the shop dirt and also some dust on limb ...
I like. Going to be a sharp looking bow.
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John - I like your caul for shaping your stave. I notice the back of your limbs are rounded or almost like half of a hexagon. Does that shape run all the way to the fades or start about mid limb out to the tips.
I suck :banghead: last one was 10lbs light this one is 5 from victims minimum.
May be able to pike it depending on the eight now. If already light weight you may not gain enough.
Quote from: Crooked Stic on March 19, 2025, 04:26:03 PM
May be able to pike it depending on the eight now. If already light weight you may not gain enough.
its already 58" amo
I guess depending on your victims draw length might be the deal. Personally I put down a weight at 28 in. But only draw 26 so 56 would be good for me. :bigsmyl: just sayin
Im really not having luck with this bow swap thing. I was spraying clear on it and noticed a streak in the glass. Ill put pics on tomorrow an get everyone's consensus on if the bow will work. If not, I will start over again with a bocote riser and black glass.
I don't think they have to be perfect. Just serviceable
Quote from: Crooked Stic on March 19, 2025, 10:12:25 PM
I don't think they have to be perfect. Just serviceable
well, I'd really like it to be perfect.
Then that's good.
I hate when a streak can't be seen til you spray it or get it in the sun.
I feel for you,happens to us all sometimes.One time I had one that showed a «dimple» in the glass that I could not see before it was cleaned up.Most likely a fault in the glass.Would be interesting though to see it at full draw.
I'll post a full draw after I make the final string. I wiped down all the glass and wood prior to glueing so it has to be in the glass
I may just start a bocote anyhow. Probably wont be as fancy
That looks like a scratch in the glass. Looks cosmetic to me.
The way that runs off to the side maybe a scratch in the sanded side. Most times the streaks from poor resin penetration are straight. :dunno:
Anyhow I think it will live. And a good looking rig to.
It would have to be on sanded side if it is. I hit outside with 100,220,320. I pulled glass straight out of the plastic bag, taped the shiny side then glued up.
Full draw 28"
Nice....
Looks good and got a little bit left in it.
I think im starting over again. Plan C. One time ill get everything right.
Sure looks like it is in the glass, but if you wiped it down with(? ) I would have thought it would show up then. :dunno:
Quote from: kennym on March 20, 2025, 08:57:39 PM
Sure looks like it is in the glass, but if you wiped it down with(? ) I would have thought it would show up then. :dunno:
next time I wipe clear down with acetone, I will pay more attention I guess.
Dale Stahl told me years ago to lay clear on a black surface sanded side up and you will find MOST of the imperfections . I have black phenolic on the bench and run every piece on it but some you still don't catch ...
Quote from: kennym on March 20, 2025, 10:03:57 PM
Dale Stahl told me years ago to lay clear on a black surface sanded side up and you will find MOST of the imperfections . I have black phenolic on the bench and run every piece on it but some you still don't catch ...
Thanks for the tip, I will have to do something like that.
I got a start on my victim today. A 3 piece longbow 60 in. I think curly stable maple and dark Myrtle veneers.
Certainly is a soft beginning to this event this year. But I'm done - all parts are finished and curing for a week. So no photo's till they come out of the booth. Then I may not ship till things look like they are moving along, just to keep it interesting. But here is a teaser - this is her twin sister.
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Quote from: Noah70 on March 22, 2025, 06:21:47 PM
Certainly is a soft beginning to this event this year. But I'm done - all parts are finished and curing for a week. So no photo's till they come out of the booth. Then I may not ship till things look like they are moving along, just to keep it interesting. But here is a teaser - this is her twin sister.
That looks really good. 👍🏼
Very nice...
I'm a little slow this year(be quiet Roy) but do have limbs profiled and tillered, weight is great at 144@90" ... :biglaugh:
Quote from: kennym on March 23, 2025, 11:39:24 AM
I'm a little slow this year(be quiet Roy) but do have limbs profiled and tillered, weight is great at 144@90" ... :biglaugh:
Well at least your getting somewhere. Ive done a lot and haven't gotten anywhere. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: About to start on third bow.
Quote from: kennym on March 23, 2025, 11:39:24 AM
I'm a little slow this year(be quiet Roy) but do have limbs profiled and tillered, weight is great at 144@90" ... :biglaugh:
Ok but it's gonna kilt me:)
Starting over tomorrow with a bocote and sapele riser. Probably won't be too fancy this time
Looking sweet Noah. Can't wait to see the actual swap bow, I'm sure its really nice.
Stik, thats some great looking maple, one of my favorites.
Watsonjay, you got this! We have all been there.
Got my victims bow tillered and hit weight, pic is at 28"
Got the grip shaped the way I like it, hope it fits my victim, and now shaping the riser for aesthetics.
Quote from: Jon Lipovac on March 24, 2025, 08:32:13 AM
Looking sweet Noah. Can't wait to see the actual swap bow, I'm sure its really nice.
Stik, thats some great looking maple, one of my favorites.
Watsonjay, you got this! We have all been there.
Got my victims bow tillered and hit weight, pic is at 28"
Got the grip shaped the way I like it, hope it fits my victim, and now shaping the riser for aesthetics.
Thanks. Hopefully third times the charm.
I was going to follow his layout to the T but then thought about using bamboo on back and maple on belly. Any opinions about how that would affect weight and performance? Seems like the maple would add poundage over bamboo??
Looking great Jon. Do you have tip wedges in that one?
Wicked static hook on those limbs - Very Nice! Great full draw flex as well, should be a very snappy design. I think I'll enjoy it!! :goldtooth:
Quote from: Noah70 on March 24, 2025, 05:00:36 PM
Wicked static hook on those limbs - Very Nice! Great full draw flex as well, should be a very snappy design. I think I'll enjoy it!! :goldtooth:
not if I enjoy it first. :biglaugh:
Yes Bue, it has tip wedges. 6.5" .030-.000
I'll find out how it shoots this weekend, first 3D shoot of the year this Sunday.
Quote from: Jon Lipovac on March 24, 2025, 05:29:34 PM
Yes Bue, it has tip wedges. 6.5" .030-.000
I'll find out how it shoots this weekend, first 3D shoot of the year this Sunday.
I like the hooks on that baby and how those limbs are bending too. I'll bet that one has a sweet DFC chart, and puts some smoke on those arrows... Shoot low brutha. That one looks hot!
A few teaser pics with first coat of finish going on.
Its common practice to final finish in Matte. If you were my victim, would you like to see this in Matte or a glossier Satin finish (Semi-Gloss)?
SWEET LIMB BUTT OVERLAY! Now that is a detail I don't see and the carbon is too cool.
Quote from: Jon Lipovac on March 25, 2025, 12:34:17 PM
A few teaser pics with first coat of finish going on.
Its common practice to final finish in Matte. If you were my victim, would you like to see this in Matte or a glossier Satin finish (Semi-Gloss)?
If I'm lucky enough to be the victim matte or satin is fine with me.
Beautiful work Jon!! I've never had a carbon backed bow, think I'm going to love it! In Matte if that's ok.
I'm good with either. It looks great!
Matttte
I like matte, but that's too purty to drag thru the brush so either here!!
Everything is looking awesome!
Personally I'm good with anything that's not glossy. Matte, satin, doesn't matter to me
Kyle
Quote from: Watsonjay on March 24, 2025, 04:17:02 PM
I was going to follow his layout to the T but then thought about using bamboo on back and maple on belly. Any opinions about how that would affect weight and performance? Seems like the maple would add poundage over bamboo??
Ive been using a bamboo back & maple belly on my recurve bows for years and i think it's the perfect combo. You get higher tension from bamboo, and better compression from the Maple.
I think you'll find very little difference in Maple back and bamboo back poundage wise on a glass or carbon backed bow....
But putting bamboo on the belly side of a higher draw weight recurve could drop the draw weight a bit due to compression theoretically. I've actually never tried using bamboo belly on a recurve limb, so i cant actually say i have measured the difference. But i know Maple has better compression qualities.
I if tempering the bamboo for the belly side would do much? In a bamboo, something, bamboo trilam you generally temper the belly bamboo before glue up to increase compression strength and don't scrape the rind off, no idea how it would do between glass.
I got a little more work done finally. I still need to twist up a string and shoot it in while tweaking in hand tiller. But I got the bloodwood nocks roughed out enough to shoot.
Kyle
How come this thread instead pinned at the top of the page?
And all I like is finishing up
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Stic, me too !! But I got a lot more finishing up to do than you.
Granddaughter here this week is my excuse. :goldtooth:
Progress - finish is curing (still) - so I got your string done! :clapper:
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Ive had some quiet progress prepping lams and glueing up this riser block with an i beam.
Finally got out to do a proper fit. Going to glue an accent strip of black stabilcore on the backside of the riser blank and when I glue up the bow I'll put 36 inch sections of stabil core as the center lam and extend it over the belly ramps to frame the riser in a black line.
Need new EA40 forgot to check my expiration dates so I'll make more progress when that comes in.
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QuoteHow come this thread instead pinned at the top of the page?
Pay attention ole man StickyPOP's
:laughing:
You got old right :biglaugh:
Sneak peak at the veneers.
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Pulled her out of the booth, string on, brace is perfect, weight is dead on, hell, the whole thing is perfect or I couldn't send it ! But I won't yet, not headin' for town for bit, too much work around the place at this time of year. So here's some pics, the attractive assistant is out so no full draw shot, but the draw is smooth and the shot is pure.
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Quote from: Noah70 on March 28, 2025, 06:57:33 PM
Pulled her out of the booth, string on, brace is perfect, weight is dead on, hell, the whole thing is perfect or I couldn't send it ! But I won't yet, not headin' for town for bit, too much work around the place at this time of year. So here's some pics, the attractive assistant is out so no full draw shot, but the draw is smooth and the shot is pure.
Man that looks really good. Especially like what you did to the arrow shelf.
Sweet bow Sir!!
Indiana bound :bigsmyl:
That's very nice, I'll be waiting
Dang. Very nice!!!!!
Outstanding work Noah.
Awesome bow, Noah... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Very professional Noah...
Who ever recieves your bow will be very happy!
Beautiful Noah!!
Just gotta finish shooting in and do some cleanup before the finish starts. But she's quick. I havnt chronographed yet but I would guess solidly in the mid to upper 160fps with a 500 gr arrow.
Broke one arrow on th first shot by glancing the plywood that squeezes the foam for my target
Kyle
A coat of linseed oil rubbed in and ready to start the truoil. I love the colors in persimmon and looks like the bloodwood works well with it
Kyle
Thanks very much everyone, much appreciated!
Kyle, thats beautiful work, and in my mind truly defines the term "traditional"!! :clapper: :clapper:
Quote from: Burnsie on March 18, 2025, 05:47:19 PM
John - I like your caul for shaping your stave. I notice the back of your limbs are rounded or almost like half of a hexagon. Does that shape run all the way to the fades or start about mid limb out to the tips.
Just saw this Burnsie. I am using Dean Torges' faceted tillering method. It does run the length of the limbs.
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I still have a bit of correction to do. We'll see how that turns out.
Made a bit of progress today after company left ...
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First time I've used accents that wide in a riser
Can't decide if I like it as much as I thought I would ...
Thats a beauty for sure. Hopefully one day I will be able to make them like you.
Getting closer but have at least one more round to get it straight. I worked it down to closer to fiinal dimensions and will have another go at it soon. [ This attachment cannot be displayed inline in 'Print Page' view ]
Accents look great and merge beautifully with the wood, Kenny! Excellent choices!
Looks like she's getting close to lined up. I was messing with a snaky one tonight that needed the tips moved about 1" over. Heated them over and they spring right back where they were. So I got them hotter this time.
I'm getting the last couple coats of truoil on. I think I've got all the coats needed at this point. I just need to buff it once dry, apply the markings after double checking weight and apply a quick coat of satin lacquer. In the mean time figure out what kind of handle wrap to do. I've got a few ideas in mind but nothing solid yet
Kyle
Great details Kyle. Looking good.
Everyone is doing a fantastic job this year. For those that are finishing up, lets hold off on shipping for a bit. I think Uli has the right idea with our small group. I'll give the go-ahead once we get a few more done.
Got all coats of truoil on, strung it up to double check weight after sanding before I marked. I must've gotten a bit heavy handed on the sandpaper, the top limb went a bit whip tillered. So I'll fix that and restart the truoil coats. A few scrapes should have it good to go again.
Kyle
EA-40 is on the way, if shipping goes according to plan i should be able to glue up sunday, and my guilt for lack of progress will push me to get it finished. Everyone posting has incredible talent, cant wait for any of these bows to get to my door.
Well I had the new bocote w/ sapele i-beam riser shaped up for gluing but I felt bad with all the creativity and effort you guys have been putting in so am adding a stripe of maple and bloodwood to it. Should be able to glue up tomorrow and hopefully hit weight.
I made some headway today victim.
Man, all this fancy stuff!! I may have to start over!! :biglaugh:
Got lams done today. Hopefully tomorrow is glueup
Kenny, you can send the one you're working on now to me if you're starting over. I'm not to picky.
Mike, my shop is like that all the time!! :laughing:
Travis you'll see it soon enough... if you're the right victim ! :biglaugh:
I need to shoot it some and maybe chrono it. Oh yeah , and sand and spray it...
Stickypops, ya was holding the camera upside down:)
Ready to build a string and get this baby ready to ship when Chris gives us the green light.
Nice. I already have a Jon bow and they are pretty sweet.
I slopped a coat of sanding sealer on to see where all the tool marks are ! :biglaugh:
Looking sweet Kenny!
Man thats sharp!!!
Roy I was to. :laughing:
I'm waiting patiently Jon. That's a beautiful bow!
Got all the tool marks sanded out I think . May find one when I spray tho , usually find something... :biglaugh:
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Send that knife to me also
No can do, Renee gave me that for birthday. Might be many deaths ... :laughing:
You better keep it then.
Fixin to build a string for it, who shoots carbon and who shoots wood? Maybe I can get string fit close? :pray:
Or give me a size in decimals?
Carbon here. Man thats a beauty, and I know from previous orders it will only take 2 days to get to me :biglaugh:
I'm good with whatever Kenny. If it doesn't fit my nocks, a simple reserve will dial it in.
I'm a carbon shooter
Carbon or aluminum
Wood:)
Peeshawww Roy, you gotta get with the times! :laughing:
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Starting to look like Im going to be the last one done. Gluing up tomorrow.
Dont worry ill be holding up the caboose :banghead:
Thanks, I always hated being last in line!!! :biglaugh:
I need to sit down some night and make a string.
String built and shot in, ready to roll.
Carbon, Kenny, if I'm not too late.
Beautiful Work Jon !!! Can I get it with the brass bushings? :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Awesome bow Jon!!
I haven't started on the string yet. Are we on a hold on shipping?
I will be having back surgery Monday. They say 3 weeks recovery.
I do think mine will be ready to spray by the weekend. But prolly not be done until after the doc sez I am ready.
Quote from: kennym on April 09, 2025, 09:02:58 PM
Awesome bow Jon!!
I haven't started on the string yet. Are we on a hold on shipping?
For now, yes. I'll update my tracking sheet when I get home from work tonight and see where we are. I suspect enough people are done, or close to done, to start sending them out.
No rush, I really dislike making strings anyway!! :laughing:
Doggone Kenny thought you might make me some strings :bigsmyl:
I'm the same way Kenny, I procrastinate on string making. It makes my carpal tunnel angry.
I'm picky on nock fit, hate if too tight or too loose...
I prolly spray mine tomorrow. I got in a mood today and got er done.
I reckon I,ll make a string to.
Best wishes for your surgery and quick recovery Stic!!
Mike, hope all goes well with the back surgery..
:pray: :pray:
Thanks
Looks like we have 4 ready to ship, one pretty close, and everyone else is at the very least in-work. Since we are small this year, I offer you guys a choice. Do you want to ship as you finish, or everyone ship at once near the end? (mid-May, won't hold for late finishers)
Mine getting finishing touches tomorrow and should be ready to ship next week. Prolly need to build a box for it. Or a pvc tube
Good luck with your Surgery Stic🙏🙏🙏
Chris, I'm good to ship now or later.
Glue arrives Tuesday. I have everything in a holding pattern but prepared and ready for glue ups
Good luck on surgery Mike, (and no flirting with the nurses if Momma is around!) Oh hell, you only live once, go for it!! :laughing:
Okay victim ur done except for some silencers and tie on nocks.a little bit of stable curly maple and some darker Myrtle veneers.
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Looks beautiful Mike!! Would be a pleasure to carry out into the elk woods this fall!!
I'm all ready to ship any time or hold, Chris, don't care which.
Very slick, Mike!!
Gluing up tomorrow. During dry run today lam scarf joints popped again. Thinking it is from my glue sitting in the garage over winter. Bought new and am letting them sit overnight without using accelerator .
Very nice Stic! Hope you have a speedy recovery from your surgery.
Beautiful bows guys!
I had to refilled the English longbow. I must've had it on the verge to whip tillered, after sanding the tips got soft. About 5# weight loss later the tiller looks better and feels good to shoot. More finish going on it now. I can't do much to doll up the bow itself on this one. So I may get a little creative on the handle wrap. I've got some fun exotic leathers and tools to process leather lace. So I may let myself have fun.
Here's the adjusted tiller.
Kyle
Looks like there isn't a strong feeling one way or the other on shipping, so we will keep with the standard of shipping whenever you are ready. You guys are released to ship as you see fit. Please remember to PM me your tracking numbers! Great work everyone.
Well dang, now I gotta make a string... :laughing:
Saw some baler twine along the road tho... :bigsmyl:
I mean, you don't HAVE to ship right now...
Bows in the form with heat strips cooking away.
:biglaugh:
Just kiddin Chris
45 more minutes.
30@120
30@130
30@140
45@150
That's my heat schedule. You think the gradual is unnecessary? Should I just jump to 150 for 2hrs?
Turned out really good.
Quote from: Watsonjay on April 12, 2025, 05:49:27 PM
That's my heat schedule. You think the gradual is unnecessary? Should I just jump to 150 for 2hrs?
When doing aerospace composites, we use a ramp rate of 3° - 5° per minute. While you would be slow on the ramp-up compared to us, we also don't have to deal with air bubbles because we vacuum bag everything. If I had heat strips for my form (please PM me a link :laughing: ) I would do ambient for 2 hours to de-gas, then 90° for 30 minutes just in case, and then straight to 150° for the recommended cure cycle.
Thank you. I will try your way next time. Or at least an hour ambient...I'm a bit impatient. These heat strips have helped with that a lot, 2 1/4 hours is way better than 8 in a hot bix. 😁 PM sent
Honestly we may be overthinking the heat thing. Most times Go about half air press. For a couple of minutes then full press. 70 for me depending on the wood may need to degas for awhile. Then heat er up.to 150 or whatever let it cool to room temp. Let the air out.
I was just reading the ea-40 directions and it said to do a graduated increase in temp.
Quote from: Watsonjay on April 12, 2025, 10:28:44 PM
I was just reading the ea-40 directions and it said to do a graduated increase in temp. Didn't follow to exactly as it said to take to 185. In dont think any of us do that.
Never have done that. But do what you feel comfortable with.
I have never heated Smooth On to more than 125-130 F and have never used that gradual thing.
EA-40™
EA-40™
*NOTE: Product Packaging May Vary
EA-40™ Clear Amber Epoxy is an unfilled low-viscosity epoxy adhesive that can be spread easily in thin films that are almost transparent after curing. EA-40™ has a long pot life and cures in 24 hours at room temperature to provide good mechanical and electrical properties. Mix ratio is 1:1 by volume. When mixed 2A:1B by volume, EA-40™ will achieve greater heat resistance and improved physical properties. EA-40™ is versatile and can be used for many different assembly and repair applications ranging from electrical potting to jewelry assembly to repairing plumbing fixtures. Bow makers have come to know EA-40™ as a tremendous laminating resin. EA-40™ provides highly moisture resistant bonds meeting the performance requirements for Federal Specification MMM-A-188, Type III.
I've used it for years on my wood bows and cure it at 85 degrees over night and never had a failure of the glue joint.
I'd imagine the glass bow guys like a little hotter temps though.
Seems like im overthinking it. Ill ignore their directions.
Watsonjay where are you getting your heat strips ??
Thanks I might give them a try.
Only place I could find them was China. I know...Shame on me. But that was the only place. JSR2.com
Do you have link for the heat strips
Send PMs if you want info. So this stays about the bow swap. Sorry Guys.
Gluing on the back handle now
Its looking good. Hopefully I didn't overbuild it.
Made some progress today. Got grip rough cut and limbs initial profiled until I verify string alignment.
Victims bow is shipped will land on hopefully the right front porch this week.
Man Ive got to get moving
I have the string half done!! :laughing:
WITCH HALF ???
Both ends! Actually got it all done a few minutes ago, and shot it outside some, kinda hate to ship her off.
Waiting for the dye to dry on the lacing but here's what I'm gonna go with for the handle wrap. Capybara with goat lace. I cut the lace to 3/16" wide then thinned and beveled before dying with mahagony dye. I'm not sure on the arrow pass material yet.
Kyle
And the end results. I'm going to shoot it a bit more before I send it but she's done.
Kyle
One of you poor son of a guns has to deal with unwrapping a new bow today.
Hmmmm, I got a box from Jon. I'm still untaping stuff.
I never thought of using the tape (military grade 100 mph tape) backwards. Worked great on the riser, but the limbs nested together with the sticky side meeting in the middle was a different story. Thought I was gonna break them so I got them started apart and carefully cut my way to the other end!! :laughing:
Once I got the bow out I was in awe. I've never built a bow that nice. Fit, finish wood selection, it has it all. Like Bo Derek, she's a 10, maybe an 11!!
I will get a full draw pic tomorrow if I can find my camera in the sock drawer (for you old timere here...)
Thank you Jon for a super sweet bow Sir!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Dang Kenny I was hoping that was heading my way. Looks like a nice one.
Trying to put it in second gear.
I know what you mean Kenny. I got a Jon bow a couple years ago.