So this new recurvewas noisy. Eso I moved the knocking point up from normal to prolly 7/8s above center shooting split finger the tiller now is even. So moving up makes the bottom limb weaker?
Talked to another bowyer said his arrows were hitting the bow and he ended up going 1/8th strong on the top limb and now bows are very quite. :dunno:
Quote from: Crooked Stic on May 23, 2023, 02:58:43 PM
So this new recurvewas noisy. Eso I moved the knocking point up from normal to prolly 7/8s above center shooting split finger the tiller now is even. So moving up makes the bottom limb weaker?
When you release the string the top limb would be working more so Yes
Do you think that playing with the brace height would help and/or trying a heavier arrow?
Yes sir it has helped. About 8 1/4 right and a 700 with 175 up front. 1535 was way stiff not sure what the spine on those are. Thinking a 600 gonna be stiff also.
Did you map the limbs?
Actually moving the string nock up higher has no effect on the strength of your limbs. But it it does apply more pressure to the top limb. The same effect can be made with a bit of positive tiller...
but.... When you sand your limbs to adjust tiller in this case.... WHERE you sand the limbs is much more important than how much you sand to get a positive or negative tiller measurement. It's all about limb balancing and getting them to bend the same top and bottom. Kirk
"It's all about limb balancing and getting them to bend the same top and bottom." Kirk
Yep. And it ain't hard to make a dynamically balanced bow.
My wish is that someday bowyers embrace the concept. It's not as complicated as they insist. Most work against it. We still have a row to hoe.
Check your PM bowjunkie!
When the deep part of the grip is in the center of the bow.
With the only part of your hand is pushing the grip is the crotch of your index finger and thumb and pulling the string from above center it has to be negative tiller.
With my arrow shelf being 1" above center I go 3/16" negative with split finger.
I take several bow to the Tennessee Classic every year and get other people to shoot them while I set back a watch.
I don't ask How it shoots but I get good comments.
My 2 cents. :archer2:
The beet shooting longbow I have the shelf is about 2 1/4 above center (socket two piece) and tiller is 1/8th strong on bottom limb :dunno:and the bow I am building right now is even shelf 1 inch above center dead quite.
How much does any of it matter? Or does it differ per bow design? With my recurves I've always just tillered them even, most guys I know shoot 3 under. I've tried shooting my bows split and don't see any difference that is noticeable.