If any one has any forg pics or Ideas that are not to elaborate to share, please do. Thanks.
G
For a lot of use, or just a one-off?
As a one-off or occasional use forge, all you need is a galvanised bucket. Cut a 1" hole in the bottom, or bottom corner, Stick a 2' length of copper pipe into the hole. Fill the bucket with charcoal, light it & use either bellows or a hairdryer to blow down your pipe. This'll get more than hot enough to forge steel! Downside is, it won't last long & it creates a LOT of dust & ash!
one warning I would add to robs suggestion it "be careful with the galvanized bucket" ganvanization burning will produce fumes which can be harmful. I would prefer you use plain steel.
also you didn't mention fuel sorce....charcoal? coal? propane? heres a few of my forges
stainless steel stock pot lined with 2" kaowool and coated with satanite. homemade propane-forced air burner:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/new%20forge/close.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/new%20forge/fire.jpg)
hight temp insulating fire brick forge using a plumbers propane torch:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/MAPPforge/side.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/kith/str8.jpg)
handcrank charcoal 'washtub forge' ala tim lively (note the galvi tub is lined with adobe to insulate it from burning:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/blwr2.jpg)
and my fav....campfire forge using hardwood lump charcoal with a steel pipe for the tuyere (air hole) and contractor garbage bag for the bellows:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/MAPPforge/campfrg2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v504/hickstick/MAPPforge/campfrg.jpg)
all i did here was to dig a groove in the several inches of wood ash lining a large campfire ring, and shove the steel pipe in.
so I guess you can see they can be as complex as you want or as simple and temporary as a 'hole in the ground'....thats real 'in the dirt' knife making.
Home made Propane forge. Rolled out of 1/16" mild steel into an 8" tube with 1/8" plate ends. The open end has a hinged face to replace the 4" kaowool lining & a 2-1/2" opening. The forge is fed via a roofer's propane torch, ducted into the fire cylinder at a 30deg angle & force fed with a hairdryer, via vacuum cleaner hose.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/forge001.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/forge003.jpg)
It works a treat & cost around $80 to build...
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y110/robtattoo/forge004.jpg)
I think my mother in law still has a propane ceramic kiln. I am not sure how hot it gets I might check into that..
I am guessing that kaowool comes from a fireplace store?
You should be able to get Kaowool from a kiln/pottery suppliers. There's no real use for it in fireplaces (although it couldn't hurt to check!)
Most ceramic kilns only get to around 1000F. You really need to be around the 1800 mark if possible, especially if you intend to do any forge welding. Basically, the hotter the better. I've had a thermocouple into mine & it maxed out at 2552F!! :eek:
nice rob. sure looks hot enough :)
I'm working on another forge right now made out of an old 20gal propane bottle that will have inch and a quarter pipe for the burner...the one I have in the stock pot forge was only out of 1/2" pipe and it it'll get hot enough to weld but it takes a while to get there....
gene...most furnace/boiler supply places have it too...do a googl search for 'refractory supplies' near you....you should come up with something....
I'd also recommend picking up a few books (anything by wayne goddard, ed fowler, gene chapman, etc) or poking around a few knife making sites if you are serious...some of the top ones are knifenetwork, primal fires, and bladesmith's forum.
thanks guys
G
Just a single kiln insulating brick with a few holes drilled into it for a small propane torch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fliksr/Random/miniforge.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/fliksr/Knife%20build%20along/forge.jpg)
I used it with just one torch for a year, but got impatient with how long it took to heat stuff up (I made the chamber too big) so I added a second.
I have a box of the kiln insulating bricks I've been passing out to guys for a year now... want one?
Just for Chip and Frank
HAHAHA! Jeremys little bricks work awesome. I am moving up soon though. <><
Where can I get a kiln insulating brick? Lowes? Home Depot? Jeremy, ya got anymore? I'll pay shipping!
If Jeremy doesn't have any left check any pottery supply places near you Chip.
Ingenious
here is my little bugger (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh305/jeffburg/forge3.jpg) lined with fire clay
Nice job there Jeff!
i tell you the dam crank set me back $150 and the clay $30 but the wood was free :biglaugh:
Yup, I still have a box of the bricks. PM me your address and I'll get one out.
My new forge is from Poor Boy Forge on fleabay and is made from a 20# bottle lined with kaowool. Now if I only had the time to fire it up!!
Mine was a cast off from our blacksmith/ferrier...Doc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/Anvil3.jpg)
Jeremy I plan on making one kinda like his. Not sure how that wool stuff works or how long it last? Doc loos like you got it down pat.<><
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v639/drewsbow/knives/100_2298.jpg)
This is mine :0)
Drew whats it lined with?<><
looks like fire bricks to me stic.
fire brick , boiller ins. board and covered with refrac. putty . I built the box around it then drilled for the burner.
nice one bro!
Hey Jeff, did Tim give you the exact same one that is on his website? If so then that is awsome!
Hi Rob, I spent twentyfive years making highfired stoneware and porcelain, my kilns fired 1250-1320 centigrade. 1000F will 'just about' fire soft terracotta garden pots!Only the lowest melting RAKU glazes and Egyptian paste will melt at 900-1000 farenheit. You may be confusing farenheit and centigrade. Most pottery kilns will easily fire over 1150 centigrade, (high fired earthenware temps) The soft firebrick used in the forges is ideal and works as you know, be careful of kaowool once it is heated it will shed ultra fine fibres especially if you bump it or have a strong airflow. This is VERY BAD STUFF to get into your lungs or eyes, silicosis and a grim death eventually. You can paint it with a ceramic slurry to stabilise it and I would recommend you do. If you want to check, shine a bright light across forge with a dark background ( eg at night )you will see millions of tiny bright fibres floating about.
I once took part in a big craft/art fair and had lots of fun with the ironwork and glass guys, we collaborated and built a glass lehr using combined skills and materials. It worked a treat and they 'taught' me to blow glass! The Danish glassblowers told me I was making 'Viking glass'. A polite way to say it was ok if crude!!
chrisg
Hey Jeremy,
Been using one of Ken's Po' boys for over two years now. No complaints at all. A pretty decent unit for the $$. . . Building a blown unit this spring.
Make sure you coat the inswool w/ Satanite or other similar refractory covering per his instructions.
Good luck with it!
Frank,
Ya gotta coat the wool as mentioned above.
Larry
Larry i looking at one on the bay site. I just come to realize I have no time to build one. looks like a bow will have to be sacrificed for the knife making.LOL<><<><
That's the story of my life Frank!
Larry
Hi Larry, I still need to coat the wool on mine, but it's not gonna see much use for the next few months anyway. I need to get the final inspection on my workshop before I add the covered blacksmith area off the back ;)
I'll be replacing the burners on that forge with a few homemade ones that should be more efficient. Propane isn't as cheap as it used to be :)
Hey Jeremy,
Sent you a PM where I get my stuff. Darrin's a really good guy to work with.
Make sure you have at least one side open on the forge area. Those dragon breath forges really produce CO besides heat! Not being vented out a chimney as in a coal forge, it's right out there in the air with you.
I'm making up the blown forge for exactly that reason . . lots better mileage from a tank of propane & more efficient.
Larry
The plan for the forge area is two fixed walls and two that are pair of barn doors. Forged hardware and fittings of course ;)