I'll tell ol St. Pete that if he can beat me in a shoot-off, he can have the one that doesn't have my name on it! :goldtooth: If that don't work, then I'll just wait and tackle Nate when he comes by, and give him one of his! :biglaugh:
Spanky ,those bows look incredible.In all honesty what differance do you notice over hill bows,not to cut anyone down,just curious.Thanks
My new Half Breed arrived this morning.
The wind is blowing about 20 to 30 mph but I still just had to shoot it outside.
Here's me drawing it for the very 1st time.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01205.jpg)
Here are the rest of the pictures I took.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01213.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01212.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01210.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01209.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01208.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01207.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01206.jpg)
You can see by my 1st six arrows that we are going to get along just fine.
Thanks for looking!
God bless,Mudd
Steve, in all honesty it boils down to personal fit and design. All of mine were made specifically for me, except for "Quiet Places" and Nate is giving it a facelift so it will, and so they simply work better. We've mentioned this before, and I'm sticking to my guns...perfect fit does matter with this style bow! You never see them on the classifieds because once they get in the hands of the person they were made for, they never leave. The couple of folks I know that didn't love them got them used. Why didn't they like them? Because they weren't built for them!
I don't know of a bad Hill bow being made by anyone out there - I have owned and actually "like" them all, but I "love" these. Nate specializes in string follow bows and his designs and construction techniques are different than the others, and simply work better for me. If you need heart surgery, you go to a heart surgeon, and not a general practitioner. Same here...if you want a reflex or straight profile Hill bow with exotic risers, various core materials, pretty veneers, and tip overlays, then Craig or Steve are the guys you need to be talking to, if you want a split bamboo like Howard's original bows, then David is your man, but if string follows are your passion then you need to talk to Nate!
Mudd,Do I ever like that bow ! It must be the Yew !LOL
Congrats on the HB Roy...looks like ya'll see eye-to-eye my friend - enjoy! :thumbsup:
More Yew 4 Yew!
Dandy bow Mr Mudd! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I will continue to drive these Cadillacs and Rolls Royces until I can get a Maserati...lol
God bless,Mudd
PS: I picked that up from a reliable source....lol
Spanky,Thanks ever so much for the info,it all makes sense,like I said before those are sure nice looking bows,Quality written all over them!
Beautiful bow Roy. Congrats and good shooting. :thumbsup: :clapper:
GRIPS...I think we could start a post on HH bows just based on grips. It is amazing the variety of grip sizes and shapes that everyone decides upon or prefers!
Straight:I love straight, they fit me. Teardrop more specifically, but any straight is my preference.
Dished: I like, but don't shoot them as well as my hand seems to collapse into the grip funny and tends to torque it a touch. I can shoot them, but just can't seem to get it consistent for the first shot. I would have to shoot a very shallow dish, but still would rather not. I am amazed at how much some bows are dished. I would like to try one with an extreme dish, or even a standard dish like MUDD's new one and see what happens.
Index: I WANT to shoot this style in a HH bow, but haven't seen one out there yet. I would never order one without first shooting someone else's. I think it would torque my wrist forward funny as it does on non HH bows, as I hold the grip more on the "side", I have wide hands and the knuckle is behind the grip apex, but it looks like I hold the side of the bow.
How have you all come to the preference you have?
Matt, I found mine by shooting them. The used bows I have bought all had different grips, and sizes, so I found the one I liked - eventually! Once I bought that Schulz bow though, it was all over...that grip was perfect! I can shoot it as well as a pure straight, but it's a little more comfortable in the hand. I have also found the wedge on John's bows to be more repeatable, and more torque free than the racetrack style.
Man this thread is killing me!
I thought about seeing if the moderators would kill it or pull it, but seeing that Rob is in on it...... probably ain't gonna happen...... :knothead:
Sure is causing the Preacherman to lust!
Bobby,
"Mortify" that lust - just order one!
I'm trying Ray, I'm trying!
Let' see if it goes 'till Howards 111th Birthday (8 months to go)
That's a sweet looking half breed Mudd! She throws a nice pattern as well!
Mudd,
Ya did it again, you know that Big 5 I had back in the middle of this thread that I said was a twin to yours......well I have your Half Breed's twin too. Bocote, Yew, over boo. Only difference is the weight and wrap. Great minds I guess!
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac144/timwsmith/HalfBreed2.jpg)
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac144/timwsmith/HalfBreedgrroup1.jpg)
She's the best shooter on the rack.
Just ordered a Hill-style bow blank from Mike Ballinger at 7-Lakes LB's. 65" 44@28 Ipe riser with a Rosewood stripe, 4 lams of bamboo with black glass. Shaping the grip and finishing the shelf. Cost $175.00. He's adding the overlays to the tip and riser for an additional $50.00. All I have to do is sand, sand and then sand some more. Then poly. Hopefully, I'll be able to post some pics on the progress. There are only a few left at this price, so, if you're considering ordering a Hill-style bow it's a great bagain with just a little bit of work on my part.
The strain was too much......pulled the trigger on the Halfbreed that WAS in the classifieds. Too close to what I was looking to order so I couldnt pass it up.
Mudd and Far Rider those are beauts! FR what kind of grip is that? Just talked with Craig today about the Redman and will probably order it tomorrow. That should be enough for a while!
Cool Blue! I have yet to see a good pic of Craig's Redman..
"That should be enough for a while!" You know that ain't true... :saywhat:
Dished grip, with I believe laced elk hide. I'll find out from the guy I bought it from and let you know.
Nice group mudd!
Tony I can't afford 1 a month!! My other HH's have black elk.
I like the looks of that brown.
far rider said " She's the best shooter on the rack." Nope, the best shooter on your rack moved to my house. :bigsmyl:
Gerald
I got my Big 5 from Stabow yesterday! 68" 50#28" Cocobolo riser with clear glass belly and back. I went out and shot it this morning. This is my first Howard Hill and only my second Hill style bow. My other was a Jerry Hill back when I shot RH, before I knew better. I will post some photos when I can figure out how to resize them to the proper width. I can save your life, but I'm a computer idiot!
:biglaugh: Yep, I should have said "left on my rack"! That Big 5 is a shooter for sure. When we gonna go pig hunting? I'm gonna be in Statesville tomorrow, would be easy to drop that Wesley off to ya!
Mudd ,
Sure like your Halfbred!
XB Congrats on your bow. I love that cocobolo!
I did not realize it at first, but once you hunt with Howard Hill, you're pretty well ruined for life.
Here's a photo of Howard and I hunting boar and buffalo in Australia. It was a great hunt----bamboo limbs got tensed and wood arrows were launched. His grin says it all.
As many of you already know, Howard is a bad influence. Yep, you guessed it, he's already trying to convince me to plan another Outback adventure. It's not easy being a fan of Howard, but it SURE IS FUN!
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Howard_and_I_in_Australia_low_res.jpg)
rik that is a hoot!
Fair-dinkum, Rik! Good to see Howard out-and-about!
Rik, I'm surprised Howard didn't hog-tie and quarter ya for having that ugly thing hangin off the side of your bow! :clapper:
That is an awesome photo!!
Thank you for sharing it with us(especially me)
God bless,Mudd
Hey I didn't know Howard shot right handed AND left handed! :)
Good one, Rik! :)
lol highnoon...
:notworthy: Good one, Rik!
Rik, that made my day! That is great! :clapper:
You may have inadvertently started a new concept there.
Funny thing was Howard did shoot lefty too. I don't think I've seen any pics of it but I have seen it on film.
Ok !!!! lol :knothead: :knothead:
Now that it's been explained to me, I get it...lol
God bless,Mudd
Roy,Roy,Roy- :nono:
great photo Rik,
this pic definately shows Hill's superiority in hunting dangerous game...no camo, no hat, no facepaint, a backquiver.... or maybe he was just a better shot than you and killed his game from 50 yards where it was safe and you had to make up for your lack of accuracy by getting within 8 feet for a killing shot....lol
I think the smile on his face proves that he thinks your getup is hilarious, especially the bowquiver..... :laughing: :laughing:
Rik, a most excellent photo. Will you also please post your picture with Howard and Errol Flynn from the Adventures of Robin Hood?
Well, during filming of The Adventures of Robin Hood, I tried to stay away from the cameras as much as possible.
However, they did get one not-so-great snapshot of me (Nate, close your ears) advising Howard how he and Errol wouldn't have to sharpen their broadheads nearly as often if they would just use one of my custom bow quivers. . .
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/howard_hill_Erroll_Flynn_and_Rik.jpg)
:laughing: :laughing:
:laughing: :laughing:
Killin me! That's great!
Rik, those pics are way funny. Had no idea you hob-nobbed with the rich and famous.
Alright Rik,
I laughed big time :laughing: over that one....you got me....
I still think Howard would have rolled his eyes at you.... :rolleyes:
That's a hoot!!
Very creative!!
I could use some lessons in photoshop...lol
God bless,Mudd
THAT'S FUNNY!
Mudd, what do you mean "photoshop"? Rik is just a LOT older than we thought! :readit:
Mudd was there with with Howard and, Rik, and Errol when that pic was taken. He had just presented Errol with one of the "Mudds Merry Men" hats.
That's Funnyyy...
Darren
I was wondering if any HH bow owners could give me the circumference of a stock traditional handle.
Thanks!
Good one Rik!
Jesse_83
I measured a couple of mine, which have the dished grip and just below the arrow shelf it measured 5 1/2" , and in the throat of the dished section about 5 1/4" circumference. Hope that helps.
So I went out this beautiful Saturday morning before the kids were up to sling a couple arrows with my Owl. The sunlight caught the wood, and I realized I never posted pics of the finished bow (just the blank in progress.) So here we go:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300540862.jpg)
She was ordered at 55# @ 29", but scales at 62#. Osage, boo, osage with a coco riser.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300540967.jpg)
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300540994.jpg)
I haven't been able to bring myself to cover the wood in a wrap, I just like it too much. (We'll see what happens this summer when I have sweat to deal with.) I did slightly shape the back of the riser to fit my grip though. And you can see that's it's been through some use already and could use a good rub down.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300541080.jpg)
Some pictures that really show off the wood:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300541178.jpg)
Sharpie doesn't look the best for writing on bows, I will probably re-scribe at some point. Perhaps when I tweak the grip just a bit more. My daughters helped with the name for my owl. (Might have been more fitting with white glass or all boo.)
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300541284.jpg)
Very nice job David.
That's cool David!!
How much sanding does it take to g work down a bow blank. Does it come tillered?
I am considering the defying of drs orders and giving one a try.
God bless,Mudd
I can't help but to add a little story to the pics. You guys infected me back in December and I ordered up the blank not long before this thread started. I was lucky enough to pick up the blank in person from Craig and Jason, hold Robin Hood #1 in my hands, pet the elephant foot umbrella stand, etc. I made a string for it that night at my sisters and shot some arrows off my knuckle into a snow bank with it in Missoula. They went a bit left... Took me 20 minutes to dig them back out.
The bow made it home to VA a week later, but with home construction, trying squeeze in some hunting, it didn't really do much until the end of January when I glued some antler tips on and started work.
Needed a new string, since pulling on the first one with unfinished string grooves quickly frayed it. I just couldn't bring myself to cover up the wood, and found I didn't need to yet. I would like to try someone's with a wrap to see if it makes life better or not.
The bow scaled in at 62# instead of the ordered 55#. I'm still a newbie, and I had been shooting a 45# recurve (that actually measures about 49#). 13# is quite a jump, especially combined with a whole new style of bow. I could barely keep the arrows in the hay bale at 20 yards. I began to wonder what kind of Koolaid you guys were drinking.
But I loved the simplicity and beauty of the bow, not to mention how light it was. Time to persevere. I figured I'd give it at least 6 months of daily dedication and see what happens.
With some advice I just tried to take it easy and get stronger and concentrate on form. I'm finally starting to form groups again, but I'm still a long way from where I was with my recurve. (The carbon is a stumping arrow thrown in from 20 yds.)
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300541924.jpg)
I also managed to get a couple pics at full draw. Don't judge my form too harshly, it's hard for my puny muscles to hold this bow at anchor while waiting for the camera timer to go off. :help:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300542027.jpg)
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300542047.jpg)
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1300542087.jpg)
beautiful job, david.
what finish did you use?
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
That's cool David!!
How much sanding does it take to g work down a bow blank. Does it come tillered?
I am considering the defying of drs orders and giving one a try.
God bless,Mudd
First - Careful about defying doctors' orders. You don't want to prolong a recovery. That said, they're only human themselves...
Second - The blanks come tillered. I'm guessing Craig expects a lot more sanding, but the instructions say to be careful to preserve the tiller. So I only sanded enough get rid of the scratch marks, round the edges, and get the handle to the right shape. Wasn't bad. He leaves you a line where the shelf belongs and as long as you're not in a hurry it seems like it's pretty foolproof.
That said, I'd like to buy one finished by Craig next time, if nothing else than for comparison.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
beautiful job, david.
what finish did you use?
Water-based poly. I use it for almost everything now days. Had no problem with the cocobola, easy to work with, etc. The only thing I'll say is it seems to dry/cure in two stages. To the touch in hours. To the point where it's fully hardened and durable it seems to take a week or so.
Awesome bow David! Pretty cocobolo.
Good shootin too!!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Very nice job David! Your form looks pretty good to me. :thumbsup:
Thought you guys might like to see the family tree, so here's a couple of pics of the three Sunsets that are in the house now. "QP" is in Nate's capable hands for a refit.
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/SHTrio002.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/SHTrio001.jpg)
This one kind of gives an idea of the difference in string follow between the glass bows, and the one with the glass on the back only. That is what makes "El Tigre" so sweet to shoot! The review thread for it is up and ready so you guys can get a better description of how the Big Cat, as I call it, feels and shoots.
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/SHTrio003.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by canopyboy:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
beautiful job, david.
what finish did you use?
Water-based poly. I use it for almost everything now days. Had no problem with the cocobola, easy to work with, etc. The only thing I'll say is it seems to dry/cure in two stages. To the touch in hours. To the point where it's fully hardened and durable it seems to take a week or so. [/b]
spray or wipe on?
Thanks far rider!
Oh man!!!
Spanky I could be nice and volunteer to train any one of those for you...lol
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :archer:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
Quotespray or wipe on? [/b]
This was spray on as I was already set up and spraying cabinets. I've brushed it on as well with good results too. Never tried the wipe on.
I will say that once it gets fully cured/dried, it's some pretty tough stuff. And I like the fact that it doesn't have any additional amber color to it. The woods seem to show through on their own better.
Spanky, that is a fine looking family you've got. I think that glass on the back only of the big cat is quite cool. Someday I'll have to try one...
Nice family Spanky!
The kids seem to be well behaved! Handsome lads all in a row!
Thanks for giving us a look..really enjoying your treasures.
Tony, quick make another post. I hear that 666 is not the luckiest of numbers...
Whew! Tony is at 667 now...lol
I'm glad you were looking out for my buddy Tony.
I am like "totally" impressed with your bow.
Both young and old can understand "valley" talk right?...lol
God bless,Mudd
Take a look at my new neck knife. (http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj10/longbowben/DSC06835.jpg)
Ben, that's pretty sharp! All pun intended. :thumbsup:
Wow, that's pretty cool. And the top one especially so. I may have to try that too... (adding to a long list)
Mudd, what's "valley" talk? Is that when my three girls start in some language 'ole dad can't understand? Or the when grandpa and I talk about back home up in the 'holler?
Nice lookin' neckers Ben! I actually had to gut a deer with a broadhead when I forgot my knife 25 years ago...
QuoteOriginally posted by canopyboy:
Tony, quick make another post. I hear that 666 is not the luckiest of numbers...
Whew! I thought I smelled smoke...LOL! Fortunately I have an eternal immunity ;)
Now 666 longbows would be too lucky, you think?
:bigsmyl: :thumbsup:
I have a 1950 something, double shelved Bear Cub(35lbs) That has vh666 as the serial number, I never could shoot that thing.
Well Craig should have started on my Redman today! Can't wait to shoot that puppy! It's hard to believe how bad the HH Bug bit me.
Cool Blue!
I am eager to see it! The way Craig works you'll have it in your hands soon. He built my Half Breed and shipped it to TW in 21 days from the day he recieved my order.
I cant believe this thread is still alive!
Looks like Can start a side forum by now :readit:
My new Tembo only took 2-1/2 weeks to deliver. I couldn't belive the turn around time on this one. Come to think of it, I've never waited longer than five weeks for a Hill. Craig must sleep in the shop LOL! The man is fast and does an awesome job. Good luck with the new hill Blue.
Glen
Thanks guys. Started to get a Halfbreed but already have 2 boo HH's. Wanted something different. 55@28 68" full grip
( my Wesley and Big 5 are dished) bocote riser and natural elk wrap.
Craig does a great job
Good ole' Craig...he's the "stuff"...... :bigsmyl:
Used to be the best kept secret around...now the cat is out of the bag.
Let's see some pics.
Darren
Alright, HH fans, I cannot sit idle any longer - it is time to order a new Hill. Could I impose and ask for your opinion on the Cheetah model from a hunter's view. Other Hills I have owned and still have were rugged, dependable - are the Cheetahs as good - just have a concern with the juniper, being a soft wood. Of course, I would want to see it enclosed in clear fibreglass. Thanks for any and all responses.
I have only heard of two instances where Cheetahs had a problem, but that can and does happen with all bows! The one thing you don't have to worry about is how well Craig will take care of you if it does!
I haven't had my "Cheetah" to the woods yet but I sure plan on it.
I have hunted with yew bows and there's not a lot of difference in how tough the wood is in either yew or juniper.
Therefore I don't anticipate any problems but as Spanky pointed out, if I do I feel confident Craig will handle it for me.
My 2 cents worth.
God bless,Mudd
When you think about core woods, you should ask yourself if you would be comfortable going on a long-awaited back country hunt with a non-fiberglass bow made of the same wood.
With Bamboo, the answer is yes. WIth yew the answer is yes, but with Juniper, the answer is probably "only if I had to."
That being said, I would and have hunted with hickory self bows, but I wouldn't want a Howard Hill bow with a hickory core.
Pick a high-performance core material with a long history of making fantastic bows (with and without fiberglass) and you will not be sorry.
"what would howard do?" ... make the limb veneers what you want, but make the limb cores tempered grass - always.
128Pages, is that a record????
I haven't had an issue with my Cheetah, but if it bothers you, just have a third core lam added, or temper the boo so the junipers are more of a veneer as Rob stated. I shouldn't think there would be an issue either way, but for sure Craig stands behind every bow. The Cheetah is an eye catcher for sure though! Love mine, as it's my only 70" bow at present, and it is SMOOOOTH!
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac144/timwsmith/Hillgroup2.jpg)
(http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac144/timwsmith/013.jpg)
IMHO
I see what you mean Tim!!
You are correct in that the "Cheetah" is an eye catcher.
I really like my Half Breed, "Yew and Boo!"
They are all pretty but you definitely need a "Redman" in the herd...lol
God bless,Mudd
My "Cheetah" is from 1999. No problems with her.
Nice collection Far Rider, which is your go too?
tg2nd, good avatar
Is there a way to tell when a Hill was made by the number on the riser? My Big Five is BC 685653.
Blueridge,
I traded or sold my Big 5 and the Ebony Wesley in the photo, but purchased a Half Breed in the interim,so the herd is the custom Wesley in the foreground, a Half Breed, and my Cheetah at the moment (stay tuned though). My custom Wesley has been my go to bow because the draw weight, tiller, and grip are specific for me. Although, I find myself reaching for the Half Breed a lot lately, it just shoots so good. Of all the stock bows I've owned, the Half Breed has been my favorite. I am anxious to try two others though....a Tembo and Redman, like I said.....stay tuned!!!!
Ringneck, Craig could tell you--drop them an e-mail.
If you like the juniper but are a little concerned about durability, I just picked up a beauty on the classified that is a Wesley with a twist--the back lam is juniper under clear glass, the other four are boo--clear glass on the belly as well. She's a looker as well as a shooter and I plan to take her to the outbacks of Colorado this fall.
Thanks again, Boyd
(http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy241/davidmitchell_6466/Hill%20Juniper%20Wesley%20Special/HillJuniperWesley2.jpg)
(http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy241/davidmitchell_6466/Hill%20Juniper%20Wesley%20Special/HillJuniperWesley.jpg)
Far Rider, David and other inputs - many thanks and Man, is that juniper ever a nice looking addition to a bow. Does anyone ever become totally satisfied with just one Hill bow?!
Buckhorn47 I think RC could come about as close as anyone could at answering your question about "anyone being totally satisfied with just one Hill".
My guess is that if funds weren't an issue for any of the Hill owners and shooters they'd all have more than one. (Just my opinion)
God bless,Mudd
PS RC I hope this isn't seen as throwing you under the bus......lol If it is please forgive me.
Only 77 more posts to hit the 2,000 mark.. How cool is this? Way!!! I'm saying.....
Buckhorn47....short answer to your question: NO.
ONE HILL BOW! :scared:
Could you imagine....ONE HILL BOW! :scared:
I have one Hill bow. And so until today I was actually happy with one Hill bow. Believe it or not (and many of you will not), I had not yet really even dreamed of "my next Hill".
But today the bug bit me a second time. I took a 13# jump with my current Hill, and while my shooting suffered at first, it's getting respectable again at the heavier weight. Then I went back and shot the lower weight bow and shot that better than ever. So now I'm ready to go one more step up in weight, albeit a bit smaller step this time.
Needless to say, today found me back on the HH website.
I'm thinking Halfbreed. Maybe with an extra lam? Do I go blank again? Or get it finished this time? Oh the choices....
Canopyboy,you are so right! Hadn't really thought of another Hill bow,Love my Red Cheetah ,but all this talk of Candy Bamboo and Halfbreeds and maybe a tad longer and heavier,there is no cure! Then Spanky comes on here with those beautys of his.AHHHH the endless possibilities
So here I am----slowly month by month----trying to save up enough money, paycheck by paycheck, for another backpacking trip Down Under in 2012 or 2013, and YOU GUYS start discussing the relative merits of beautiful Howard Hill bows.
Keep this in mind-----my Howard Hill bows are all take-downs, and while deadly as sin-----are spray painted in many shades.
Yes, I said "Spray Painted." (Oh Lord, I can feel the heat coming down already!)
I don't own a pretty Howard Hill bow. I have a beautiful Sunset Hill take down, but I don't own a beautiful take-down Howard Hill bow. Hmmmmmm. . . . .
This is ALL YOUR fault, because I am now feeling the urge to call Craig to ask him for a killer-looking, sweet-shooting, 75-pound dark-bamboo-limbed take-down.
It may be destined for a few adventures. . .it may cost me a few months of saving for an Australian adventure. . . and this is all completely YOUR FAULT!
(Stop the madness. . . end this thread before it costs us all. . .)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
So here I am----slowly month by month----trying to save up enough money, paycheck by paycheck, for another backpacking trip Down Under in 2012 or 2013, and YOU GUYS start discussing the relative merits of beautiful Howard Hill bows.
Keep this in mind-----my Howard Hill bows are all take-downs, and while deadly as sin-----are spray painted in many shades.
Yes, I said "Spray Painted." (Oh Lord, I can feel the heat coming down already!)
I don't own a pretty Howard Hill bow. I have a beautiful Sunset Hill take down, but I don't own a beautiful take-down Howard Hill bow. Hmmmmmm. . . . .
This is ALL YOUR fault, because I am now feeling the urge to call Craig to ask him for a killer-looking, sweet-shooting, 75-pound dark-bamboo-limbed take-down.
It may be destined for a few adventures. . .it may cost me a few months of saving for an Australian adventure. . . and this is all completely YOUR FAULT!
(Stop the madness. . . end this thread before it costs us all. . .)
Bla, bla, bla Rik! :smileystooges: If you get a "purty" one then you can't put that bow quiver on it, either. :D
Hmmmmm... Takedown Hill that could go backpacking. Now that's an idea too.
Damnit.
ah rik, the agony and travails of the dedicated longbow hunter!
i should have my connexion t/d hill tembo finished by this summer, and ready to canoe/backpack into the seven lakes mountains in search of both critters and stumps. 'course, at 50# holding weight it'll be a wimp compared to your manly 75# cannons, but i'll enjoy it just the same. ;)
I hate it when this thread slips to the second page....
I hear you Bro Mudd. Actually I am content with my Big 5.....for now.
Its slinging a 2016 with a big Inerceptor right proper and is feeling a bit bloodthirsty. Turkey season starts saturday and then theres them pesky porkers.RC
You're right, Canopyboy, deserves to be at the top of the thread.
I bring you all a treat today-----a photo of the gorgeous limbs of my two take-down Wesley Specials. Simply beautiful I say, simply beautiful.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/wesley_special_limbs.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
I bring you all a treat today-----a photo of the gorgeous limbs of my two take-down Wesley Specials. Simply beautiful I say, simply beautiful.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/wesley_special_limbs.jpg)
I totally concur!!!!!!
God bless,Mudd
rik, they been floatin' on clouds or sumpin'? :)
canopyboy, I FEEL YOUR PAIN!!!
Hey Rik, where are the bows! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Rik, they look better leaning against a big bull elk :D
Rik,
the only way those bows would look good is covered by a bowquiver next to an elk.....because I'd be looking at the elk!....lol :thumbsup:
Alas, my artistic sensibilities are being impugned. Have you no appreciation for fine art?
I like em, how much meat have they accounted for??
I am a little confused about the color choice, although with refined art lighting is everything. Like I always ask my artist daughter, "What are you trying to say with that painting?"
I had one with the light brown/light rust. I tried to not make it a pattern, but I never got it to that "that's it" point, guess I did not know what I was trying to say with it.
A nice pair there, Rik. I had one of those Wesleys but it required more "oomphf" than my system was capable of, so now someone in Texas shiould be enjoying it.
Great site for Hill fans.
http://www.dickwightman.com/howardhill/hhsindex.html
Can anyone guide me in the right direction for arrow spine? I'm expecting a HH Cheetah in the next 4-6 weeks. 68" 65#@27" I shoot wood arrows so im not too worried about foc..i use 125-145gr broadheads. I have 70-75# spine pine hexshafts for my 66#@27" longbow of a different brand. Do you think these arrows will fit the HH bow nicely?
Thanks!
Hey, Rik, might as well spray paint the Mona Lisa! :scared:
yep Dave a ways back said the lefty shooters here were the best looking best shooting on here , well im here so enough said! Mark#78 :coffee: :goldtooth:
QuoteOriginally posted by Jesse_83:
Can anyone guide me in the right direction for arrow spine? I'm expecting a HH Cheetah in the next 4-6 weeks. 68" 65#@27" I shoot wood arrows so im not too worried about foc..i use 125-145gr broadheads. I have 70-75# spine pine hexshafts for my 66#@27" longbow of a different brand. Do you think these arrows will fit the HH bow nicely?
Thanks!
get yerself a surewood test kit with a 2 spine bracket above and below. particularly with woodies, there's no substitute for trying out the real thing.
Enough and stop already. Are you all on Craig's payroll or what? I'm just getting settled in with my new Yew & Bubinga Mohawk and now I need to try a matching Yew & Bubinga Hill because of you all. It's a conspiracty I tell you.
Rob's suggestion is the perfect solution.
However, if you don't have the dollars to buy a test kit, the second best option is to go "Old School." Go to a shoot and ask as many guys as possible if you can shoot one of their arrows. When you find the one that flies like a laser-------THAT'S THE SPINE FOR YOU.
P.S. In regards to the question about how much meat those wonderfully beautiful Howard Hill bows of mine have made, well, let's just say that one one hunt alone, one of them put over 4,000 pounds of meat on the ground for the local Aborigines. We even packed out the tongue. Hot work, but rewarding. I have to have two full-size freezers to keep up with what they shoot.
They may be beautiful and look like city-slicker bows, but MAN can they shoot!
QuoteOriginally posted by Swamp Yankee:
Enough and stop already. Are you all on Craig's payroll or what? I'm just getting settled in with my new Yew & Bubinga Mohawk and now I need to try a matching Yew & Bubinga Hill because of you all. It's a conspiracty I tell you.
Sounds beautiful. You'll need to share the pics when you get it. :D
Thanks Rob and Rik, I'm in Canada so ordering shafts out of the states is pricey. But luckily the North American Longbow Safari is in Alberta this year so maybe I'll try the "old school" method. I can't wait to get my first Hill!
Jesse,
Welcome to the fun!
I'm sure you'll love your new Hill. And all of them you are inspired to buy in the months/years ahead.
Will be watching for you to post a pic of your new beauty. :thumbsup:
Hey Dan, if Ben Kleinig posts a pic of his Bubinga Redman turn your head quickly or you'll be done in for sure! :readit: :banghead: :D
I just saw some pics of a 70", 67# HILL Jungle Cat.#37 of 40. 3/boo 2/bacote. Pretty nice bow.
What year was that bow offered as the Special?
OH! it has a lion scrimshaw in the riser.
I think I might be catching a bug. :jumper:
This has gone from bug to pandemic!..lol
I can't say the end is in sight either.
I can't begin to tell you folks how it's been a real blessing to me.
I can tell you that it is.......!!!!!!!!
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by SpankyNeal:
Hey Dan, if Ben Kleinig posts a pic of his Bubinga Redman turn your head quickly or you'll be done in for sure! :readit: :banghead: :D
I'd love to see that! Ben, when you get a moment, would you please post one?
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Van Dort:
QuoteOriginally posted by SpankyNeal:
Hey Dan, if Ben Kleinig posts a pic of his Bubinga Redman turn your head quickly or you'll be done in for sure! :readit: :banghead: :D
I'd love to see that! Ben, when you get a moment, would you please post one? [/b]
X's two Ben! Please! :archer:
Chuck, I don't remember when the JC was offered, but they are really cool looking bows!
This whole post has totally re-kindled my interest in Hill bows.I can see the future.Must try one of these Candy grass Hills.I can see a Tembo In the future,Yes Caramalized Boo,Bocote Riser and Tips,small,narrow grip,indexed with dark brown wrap,68",65# @28.Just Made a New Back Quiver,Matching Surewoods and a Homemade Haversack and Armgaurd in the process ,I'll post pics when shes done.
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Gear/IMG_2862.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Gear/IMG_2870.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Gear/IMG_2869.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Gear/IMG_2865.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Gear/IMG_2866.jpg)
I've been away a few days. Has Ben Maher been on yet, and piped-up with tales of his latest adventures?
wooooooo, that's a beauty, ben!!! :thumbsup:
Absolutely Gorgeous!
Thanks Ben!
Ben anyone whose heart beat isn't quickened at least a little after looking at your bow needs to go see their doctor because something is most definitely wrong with them...lol
Thank you for sharing!
God bless,Mudd
PS:If anyone ever analyzes my computer usage I sure there is enough evidence to easily convict me of viewing "porn".... "Bow porn" that is....lol
Have I missed any follow up on Rob's two piece Tembo blank?
Awesome Redman Ben, congrats.
Ben,THAT is one nice looking bow!,Now do you notice any differance between the Yew and Bamboo,just curious !LOL
QuoteOriginally posted by sou-pawbowhunter:
Have I missed any follow up on Rob's two piece Tembo blank?
haven't started the project yet, but do have both the bow and hinge.
Rob,Really looking forward to seeing this bow progress and your opinion on the results,real interesting.
Ya, me too!
I will enjoy watching the project. Will most likely do the same thing to my HB.
Ben nice bow, should be getting mine in a few weeks. Curious about the Yew/Boo comparison.
Nice Redman!
Ben's bow is definitely a beauty. Hill owners love the elegant simplicity of their bows. We don't need 37 laminations of rainbow colors in our risers with zig-zags,swirls and overlays. Pup
Can anybody give a short list of pros and cons of HH bow length? I ordered a 65#@27" Cheetah at 68" long. Craig's starting on it this week and I was wondering if dropping the length down to 66" would cause a noticable difference in performance. (ie. stack, loss of velocity.) Or at my draw length, would it even make a difference?
Thanks!!
Jesse, I draw 28" plus maybe just a fraction more. I do not order less than 68" Hills, but if a great one comes along at a good price (that is left handed) and it's 66" I don't let that be a deal breaker. I don't really see any cons to longer lengths unless you shoot out of a pop-up. They are extremely nice and smooth. My 66" bows don't stack at my draw but the longer ones feel just a smidge (technical term there) smoother on the draw......Dave
I draw 26.5" and 68 is too long...more handshock, and lower performance! You have to decide what is more important to you - smoother draw (68) or better cast (66). Ideally you should have Craig make it 67" if you have a true 27" draw, and he will if you ask! If you go with the string follow profile, then 66" would be better!
I am really enjoyin' my 70" Hill with my 29" draw length.
Thanks to David Mitchell for being willin' to part with such a *nice* HH longbow!
Shoot straight, Shinken
Bought a used one today, can't wait!!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisM:
Bought a used one today, can't wait!!!!
Once bitten, you are forever infected!!
Congratulations Chris and welcome to the epidemic!
God bless,Mudd
PS: Thank you David... I got that straightened out.
I am the worlds worst.....
Uh, Mudd....I think you meant to type Congratulations CHRIS....but you typed "Christ", and He is most welcome here also. Glad you have Him so much on your mind that His name just pops up. ;) :thumbsup:
Thanks Dave & Spanky!
After reading your recommendations and researching a lot more on this site, I decided to make a last minute change to my order. Will now have a 66" Cheetah, it will suit me better in the bush. Can't wait to share pictures in a month or so!!
One day I shall have to aquire a bamboo bow with identical specifications, all in the name of science, to compare it with the yew.
Now, that rascal Ben Maher has stories to tell...
wasn't mr maher on safari in ... new zealand?
Yep. I think they've just arrived back, and he's probably sleeping it off.
Alright Mr. Maher ...pics please.RC
I think you'll be very happy with that choice Jesse! :thumbsup:
Wake-up Ben, we need pics and stories! :campfire:
Yeah! Entertain the troops!
:D
While we are waiting for the stories from Ben, I will ask for some advice from the long time Hill hunters.
This is my first go around with Hill style bows and I am wondering how to get better accustomed to the overall length of the bow in the woods. Turkey season is just around the corner, and I plan on doing a lot of stumping before hand but any other pointers on stalking with a "long"bow would be appreciated.
Stik and String,
I stalk the steepest country south of the Canadian border—and north of New Zealand. I don't buy meat from the store, and I haven't starved to death yet. I am not a vegetarian,
There is no bow on earth more suited to stalking and shooting from a kneeling position than a Hill-style bow. If you're shooting from a standing position, well, grease the frying pan, 'cause the arrow's going home!!
If you don't hunt the Steep Rockies, even easier.
We need Nate to give us a tale of his last stalk or two on Mule Deer bucks. That's all you'll need to know about the length of a Hill Bow (Sunset Hills included) as it applies to stalking and killing tasty critters.
To prove it, Once you are used to your bow, take a few friends with their recurves out for a day of roving. Several of them will be ordering Hill bows within a year or two. Works every time.
P.S. I apologize to you all for the previous photos of the painted Hills, and hope to make up for it with the photo below. MAN, you have no idea how great dinner was after this little adventure!
(Nate, avert your eyes----there's a quiver attached to the carmelized limbs of that killer take-down you made for me, and on which you penned the words "GONE OUTBACK." Those words were truer than you realized. . .
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/small_goat.jpg)
Practice shooting from kneeling, crouching and sitting positions. Even sitting on your bum, a Hill longbow can still be shot.
I can shoot even my longest Hill (70"er) from any position without any problems.
It's no different than any other bow in that you have to be aware of what's around you and what could possibly interfere with your draw or limbs.
That's been my experience but others may have different experiences and therefore different advice.
Just get one, go hunt and enjoy!
God bless,Mudd
Thanks guys. I am loving my Hill and with turkey season right around the corner I was looking for some pointers to speed up the learning process and you guys gave me some. Thanks again.
There is one shot with a Hill bow that is long that should be avoided, that is sitting on your butt pad on a steep hill and leaning against a tree. Quite often the tree gets in the way if you try to roll the bow over backwards and the ground will find your lower limb tip real fast if you try a standard sitting shot. I am always amazed how good I hunt doing this position and how bad I am prepared when a deer or turkey comes in on the bow arm side.
Pavan you just gave a prime example of what I was talking about.
It is imperative that what ever bow you are shooting
That you know where your limb tips are. Where are your potential obstacles?
This doesn't just apply to Hills or Hill style bows.
I know!... It sounds like just good ole common horse sense but believe me stuff can and will happen if you don't make the plan ahead of time that avoids it.
Whew! Got all that off my chest...lol
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
Pavan you just gave a prime example of what I was talking about.
It is imperative that what ever bow you are shooting
That you know where your limb tips are. Where are your potential obstacles?
This doesn't just apply to Hills or Hill style bows.
I know!... It sounds like just good ole common horse sense but believe me stuff can and will happen if you don't make the plan ahead of time that avoids it.
Whew! Got all that off my chest...lol
God bless,Mudd
For me, shooting on my butt would be the last resort...for obvious reasons as you guys have pointed out but one more: to be able to react to a "murphy" (as in "law") your ability to change positions is severely hampered. You cannot possibly use all of your body's ability to "articulate"
I suppose that, if I were to become a "butt hunter" (no pun intended, ha) I would need to practice a lot in that position in order to be confident.
Like Ben mentioned above, practicing in many positions (knee, both knees, bending, leaning) is most beneficial for a ground hunter. YMMV
I shot a large doe once with a heavy big 5 89lbs. while keeping a badger mound warm on a hill side and while smoking a cigar. With no tree behind me I was able to lay on my back and roll the bow over to get the doe. That is one shot that I would never try with a recurve, but with practice it is doable at reasonably close shots.
I was finally able to get outside with the new Half Breed.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01272.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01264.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01263.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01266.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01259.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01257.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01260.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
I shot all of these as my self training photos.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01284.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01278.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01285.jpg)
God bless, Mudd
Great Mudd!!
I like your form buddy..
The first pic is a classic. :thumbsup:
Where's liar Mudd?
QuoteOriginally posted by far rider:
Where's liar Mudd?
He was here but I had him on a tie out so he wouldn't be tempted to go after any arrows...lol
God bless,Mudd
From these pics Roy, it looks like your right between the green and red stripes for your draw length. Form looks real good brother! Good heel down, and thumb knuckle placement! :thumbsup:
Hmm, those other bows all strung and waiting their turn looks like my back yard range. Always seem to have 2-3 extras ready.
QuoteOriginally posted by SpankyNeal:
From these pics Roy, it looks like your right between the green and red stripes for your draw length. Form looks real good brother! Good heel down, and thumb knuckle placement! :thumbsup:
X2 brother!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I was totally surprised at how short the time was that it took for the new grip to start feeling completely natural.
Now I don't even have to think about it. it's just there.
Thanks Spanky!
God bless,Mudd
That's because it IS natural! The nice thing about these grips is that they do not force your hand into a certain position like pistol grips do...a position that ultimately may not work for you, hence the difficulty in finding THE bow! If given the chance, most people would find a "correctly sized" straight or dished grip to be very natural feeling, pointing, torque free, and consistently repeatable. Not to mention the accellerated learning curve between something that feels natural and something that has to be ingrained!
Great pics Roy! Thanks for sharing your shooting session with us. :thumbsup: :clapper:
I'm sure that is true Spanky.
Something else here: Mr Mudd and I both expereinced a decrease of almost exactly 2" when transitioning to the straight handle and focusing on a tight form.
For anyone thinking about ordering a hill style longbow coming from any other grip style, you'd better play with a straight grip and take a look at Spanky's form before you order. It could save you a ton of trouble and some hard earned money.
Wait a minute, you took several ladies to the dance... Or are they just holding your chair?
(http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/wolfram1-av/DSC01260.jpg)
Just kidding, looks like more fun than I am having painting the kitchen.
Aye Captain!
You have a good eye for detail.
Mr. Mudd has several personalities - they all like to dance! A few of 'em are down right clever!
Sun coming over tree tops, bow relaxed next to her other half.
(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_1310.jpg)
Following the string. Same Light.
(http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_1308.jpg)
Swampthing, are those the same bow in both pictures?
I have looked several times at the upper picture trying to see the other bow that it's next to but have failed to see anything.
Help me!!! Please!
Thank you!
God bless,Mudd
great camo...can't even see the guys hand! :p
They are the same bow, her ther half is the "cedar tree" behind her. :wavey:
Roy,those pictures look so good,you got it all together my friend !
AND a big thank you for the new Mudd Hat ! Pics will be forthcoming and a STORY.I just finished making a new Hill Quiver and a Haversack and Armgaurd are in the works as we speak.My new Hat is the same leather and Colour as my new ensamble,My wife didn'y even believe it.You will be impressed my friend!The Quiver turned out great,lots of sewing.
There's nothing quite like seeing Hill bow limbs at full draw.
Truly the epitome of archery!
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
There's nothing quite like seeing Hill bow limbs at full draw.
Truly the epitome of archery!
X2!!
A thing of pure beauty!
After a little long distance mental arm twisting I relented and agreed to do this...lol
Here is Tony's new bow "Macatawa" being shot at 20 yards with arrows that are upward of 830 grains.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01300.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01299.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01298.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01296.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01294.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
PS: I'm not much of a bow shot but an even worse photographer...lol
Thanks for taking mac out for some exercise Roy! He looks almost as handsome as the guy in the hat!!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
800+ gr...lol! How does he like those logs?
The hill bug literally bit me today. I was shooting in every angle I could think of but in a hurry to fling a few arrows before work, I neglected to put my armguard on. Needless to say the slap on my arm taught me not to forget the armguard. Btw the arrow was still dead center :goldtooth:
Mudd, your pictures just don't look quite right with long pants and brimmed hat. You should stay with the Robin hat and kilt. Much more the gentleman of the forest. But your bows look fine.
Just have to show you guys the next surprise that arrived yesterday from my friends Nate and Ray G. These have to be some of the most beautiful arrows I have ever seen...my pics don't even come close to doing them justice! It's gonna be REAL hard to fling these in the woods!
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies001.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies002.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies003.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies006.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies011.jpg)
I can't even think of the right words to express my gratitude! I'll try my best to bloody'em up...thanks guys!
Beautiful arrows, Congrats.
Darren
Another may have been bitten today...lol
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/DSC01309.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/DSC01308.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/DSC01307.jpg)
Stephen Claypool shooting his 1st longbow and yes it was a Hill.
God bless,Mudd
Saweeeet aras! Wow!
Those are gorgeous Spanky!
I can see why you would be reluctant to fling them.
Thank you for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
Some nice bows for sure. Mudd you have so many bows i dont know which one id pick! Thanks for the opportunity.
WHAT'S THIS?
Beautiful, Perfectly Bending Hill Bows, and now the addition of
BEAUTIFUL ARROWS? MADE OF WOOD? SHOT FROM HILL BOWS?
I suspect this is one excellent thread that will---perhaps---get even better. . .
Hey gang-
This pic is on *bay for sale. Thought you guys might like this one.
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/461331321_o-1.jpg)
That looks like one of Howards early Yew or Lemonwood bows...cool pic thanks for sharing it! :thumbsup:
spanky, you can compare your Hill form and compare your arrow flight in the first slow shot on here. Hill's wood arrows knew where they were going.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFqjNKC72dA&feature=related
QuoteOriginally posted by SpankyNeal:
Just have to show you guys the next surprise that arrived yesterday from my friends Nate and Ray G. These have to be some of the most beautiful arrows I have ever seen...my pics don't even come close to doing them justice! It's gonna be REAL hard to fling these in the woods!
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/Ray_G_Woodies011.jpg)
I can't even think of the right words to express my gratitude! I'll try my best to bloody'em up...thanks guys!
You guys are spoiling the lad! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
********************************************
Steven...looks like you had fun in Muddsville..lol
I can't wait 'till I get there.
That is a really cool shot of his form and the arrow flight...awesome! Thanks for the link!
Tony, they're the best! Hopefully I can do something to return the favour!
Man, that picture just says traditional archery all over it. :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
Man, that picture just says traditional archery all over it. :thumbsup:
David-
I don't know what pic you where you pointing out, but the photo with Howard wearing just a long sleeve shirt, pants, and boots with his bow in hand overlooking the hog is traditional. (no camo, no scent lock suit, etc)
Darren
Egads, some of those other films there of Howard are just insane. Shooting the prune of the mans head, with a broadhead no less, no thank you. Although when he shows him the cherry I almost fell out of my seat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbCGoqk3S4s&feature=related
If you want to fast forward start at 6 mins.
Funny how he posed for some of the full draw pic/vid first, but, when they changed camera angles and played it full length, there wasn't any "posing."
One motion.
Good thing there was no posing with the broadhead on the real shot, the blunt that was really used would have blown through that helmet that was hidden under that pretty wig like it was a pop can. I can never shoot so good if I am posing, seems like Hill knew the difference as well. On the apple of the first video there was that face on no helmet, that takes nerve. A good way to practice is to put apples on top of gallon milk jugs. I killed the milk jug 4 times last fall before I hit the apple. I am ready for volunteers.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
A good way to practice is to put apples on top of gallon milk jugs. I killed the milk jug 4 times last fall before I hit the apple. I am ready for volunteers.
:scared: Not for the faint at heart, nor loose bowels! It was surely a different time. Glad I don't live near you, Pavan. I would be renamed "Chicken".
Yeah really, I onced riccoched an arrow of my block target!
I found it amazing how easy that milk jug was to hit when we put a face and ears on it and an apple on top. Makes you wonder how many people were running around with arrow skid marks in their skulls.
I can't believe its only been a week since i ordered. Does time always go this slow when your waiting for a new Hill?
Jesse I think I'm a week ahead of you . I'll let you know if mine gets here early.
I recently read something where he quoted that he preferred the long bow....a bunch of other stuff....and then something about snap shooting.
I'll try to find what it was. I think it was an add for the recurves he was selling back in the 60's.
While it is possible to snap shoot many bows, emulating Howard Hills form and rhythm is easier with a straight gripped Hill style longbow. Hill said when hunting you can be more accurate if you shoot fast than by taking your time. I have found this to be true as well, that does not mean however, that the basics of form are thrown out in the haste. that swing draw, bent bow arm and the natural approach to non-exaggerated form helps give the fluid flow to getting on target without a lot of prepping the shot. In other words if you jump a pheasant from a bow along your side stance, you have a better chance of getting a good shot off quicker and easier. It is not so easy if you need to extend your bow arm before your shot sequence begins.
This thread covers lots of pretty wood combos, but is amazingly barren in functional application of the Hill package, which all comes together to make the fluid shooting philosophy work as a unit.
I can see the swing draw working on pheasants, but on deer and elk I would imagine they would beat feet when spotting the motion. Thoughts??
I dunno-it seemed to work for Howard. The man put a lot of game in the bag. :notworthy:
Worked just fine for Howard....not for David Mitchell.
!["" "[dntthnk]"]("graemlins/dntthnk.gif")
We each have to find our own method.
Well, Howard killed his bull elk at, if I remember right, 196 yards or so? At that distance, the swing draw is no problem.
My average shot on bull elk is eight yards. The 6x6 i killed two years ago was at three yards.
At these distances, the swing draw would not be conducive to eating lots of elk meat.
I guess it depends on where the animal is looking when you draw. If I set my arm first, I inevitably shoot high, but that's just me!
In an attempt to go along with what Pavan said, I made a couple of short video clips to try and help a few guys maybe get a little better visualization of some of the things we had been talking about. I'm far from being an expert, but I'll put the links below for you guys to look at. All critiques are appreciated, so let me know what you think!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZrlAQjjyiHY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MFlWTw_jas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqklH4-Qbg0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvksZnjpp8Y
I plan on re-making a couple. These were just something I put together quickly so they're not that good!
Thank you Spanky!
I've seen these before but it never hurts to go over them again... and again... and again...lol
God bless,Mudd
Nice video's Ken. How do you like that american leather glove? I've been eyeing one of them for awhile.
Glen
Glen, that's the crossover glove with the cordovan tips, and inserts on the inside and I love it! Gives all of the protection of the Hill glove, but is way more comfortable and stays on your fingers!
I think that for the majority of hunting shots, a swing draw is more adaptable to the situation.
Rik, at three yards, the swing draw isn't necessary....you just hold out your arrow and the elk runs into it...lol lol :biglaugh:
I personally like the manueverability of the swing draw, have shot alot of game because of it. Even an animal from a treestand, so I know it works there as well.
Pavan, great point made. I've talked to several via pm's about the Hill style, which encompasses bow design, shooting style, aiming, etc....not just a pretty bow.
It's quite amazing to me how many fellas are caught on the pretty Hill-bow lure...and sell/trade the bow because they are attempting to shoot it like another style bow... There are a few guys who can shoot a Hill style bow like a recurve or r/d bow and shoot it well....but those guys are in a vast minority.....the vast majority of guys shooting Hill style bows would benefit from lessons in Hill style form and function because it really does matter with this style of bow....
What bothers me most about teaching this Hill style to people is that the ones that doubt what Hill and John Schulz taught me will learn nothing and the ones that accept it and understand what I am getting at out shoot me in a matter of weeks. Nice job Ken.
Hmmmm. . . I've got an open mind. Perhaps a Western (west of the Continental Divide) Hill-Style_Shooting_clinic clinic might be popular. I, being a straight-arm-before-I-draw guy will be one of the first to enroll (as long as it isn't during a hunting season).
Place it somewhere near Aspen trees and mountain scenery and you might get a more than a few others to attend. What better way to spend three or four days in the summer, before elk season?
there is no question that one needs to have an "open mind" with regards to form and all other aspects of trad archery. try anything and everything and *your* "right thing" will become ever more evident to *you*.
just don't adopt form and/or tackle solely for hero emulation, or because some "archery guru" sez his/her way is the "right way" - that's totally counter-productive and wrong ... naw, it's not at all wrong, it's plain *stupid*. :D
Thanks for the videos Spanky.
Spanky, Thank you for the videos :clapper:
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/NottooShaby.jpg)
Even with in the ranks of those who aspire to emulate Hill are going to have their own individual variances, but the basics of the philosophy are evident. It is proper to study what someone has done that is as spectacular as Hills feats and to see if it could improve ones own shooting. As a classical musician I study all of the greats that I can that came before me. They all share things in common, it is how the art form thrives and grows. the art of making bows and shooting them is not that much different. In music the ones that ignore their predecessors work for years to gain very little and it is up to their PR people to make fans think they are end all next great thing. Certainly anyone that studies archery can acknowledge those that have preceded them. What archers do when they go to shooting clinics is hope to adapt and gain in abilities from the knowledge of those that are transferring their knowledge in hopes of getting paid and that the customer will get their moneys worth from the shooting lessons. And Rob I am a very intelligent and objective person; I do not worship anyone because of their status, but I readily acknowledge what they can do.
I have seen folks struggle with longbows, even when they could handle recurves very well. Considering how many guys are spending their hard earned money on Hill bows, it would be good if Ken's videos give help to those that may have struggles with them. I am looking forward to more video clips Ken.
Mudd,
You dawg!!
Now everyone will see my new bow design...uniquely Chinese...LOL :thumbsup:
***************
Paven, X2
Hey Mudd
If you are going to immolate Hill in that picture, you going to have to take your shirt off, :biglaugh:
Great form and stance.
Darren
I was up doing some late night studying and spanky's vids and mudd's pics made me break out the robin hood. I got the locater grip on this one and although it is comfortable, I find that my heel tends to want to come away from the grip. Now that I am aware of this I can correct it. Thanks guys.
Excellent videos Spanky! I wish I saw them a couple years ago when I bought my first HH. It took me a while and some trial and error to wind up with the same results. Your videos would have shortened up the learning curve.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
Even with in the ranks of those who aspire to emulate Hill are going to have their own individual variances, but the basics of the philosophy are evident. It is proper to study what someone has done that is as spectacular as Hills feats and to see if it could improve ones own shooting. As a classical musician I study all of the greats that I can that came before me. They all share things in common, it is how the art form thrives and grows. the art of making bows and shooting them is not that much different. In music the ones that ignore their predecessors work for years to gain very little and it is up to their PR people to make fans think they are end all next great thing. Certainly anyone that studies archery can acknowledge those that have preceded them. What archers do when they go to shooting clinics is hope to adapt and gain in abilities from the knowledge of those that are transferring their knowledge in hopes of getting paid and that the customer will get their moneys worth from the shooting lessons. And Rob I am a very intelligent and objective person; I do not worship anyone because of their status, but I readily acknowledge what they can do.
I have seen folks struggle with longbows, even when they could handle recurves very well. Considering how many guys are spending their hard earned money on Hill bows, it would be good if Ken's videos give help to those that may have struggles with them. I am looking forward to more video clips Ken.
i hear ya larry, i'm not pointing fingers or saying anything negative about anyone or any thing.
each of us needs to allow ourselves to find what works specifically for us individually because we are all unique individuals. emulation may be a form of flattery but it may also - and usually does - stifle both function and creativity.
in the case of howard hill, who was left eye dominant and intentionally shortened his draw length to accommodate his need for ever stiffer wood arrows, he surely listened to the beat of his own drum in the final analysis.
we each owe it to ourselves to try out everything or as much as we can with regards to both form and tackle, then allow and adopt the things that make each of us most consistent, and make that our very own.
in essence, the only disservice is to purport that one must have a certain form to shoot certain tackle. that kind of dictum would be a mistake and i'm glad no one is saying that.
having been intimately involved with most all forms of music for the last 56 years, the analogy to archery is one and the same. for sure and most definitely. :cool:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
each of us needs to allow ourselves to find what works specifically for us individually because we are all unique individuals. emulation may be a form of flattery but it may also - and usually does - stifle both function and creativity.
we each owe it to ourselves to try out everything or as much as we can with regards to both form and tackle, then allow and adopt the things that make each of us most consistent, and make that our very own.
in essence, the only disservice is to purport that one must have a certain form to shoot certain tackle. that kind of dictum would be a mistake and i'm glad no one is saying that.
:cool:
Rob, I am also glad that no one is saying that. I don't disagree with a thing here. The info you gave me a couple months ago was very helpful as is the input/coaching of Spanky and others.
I adapted a basic HH "form" many years ago....just because. That in itself means nothing but I believe it stuck with me for so many years is that it is indeed natural (for me) and works well (for me)..so if it ain't broke I ain't gonna fix it. But,as is my nature, I will tweak it until the day I die. That is the reason I studied the stuff you gave me...good! It is all good..and great fun...and amazing brotherhood.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks for the helpful videos, Spanky.
Pavan,
I concur with your assessment. I'm also a classical musician as a hobbyist...I love my viola. The analogies are similar. It amuses me when I think that I can grip a viola neck and handle the bow any way I want, and it will play music...and that's ok because it's me, it's my style... However, if I want to play it well, it behooves me to pay attention to how it should be handled as taught by the masters. I believe it is the same with the Hill style longbow. As in other types of bows, look to the masters of the weapon to learn how to shoot them the best, to get the best out of that instrument. If I was shooting a Yumi style Japanese bow, I'd look for instruction from someone well versed in that bow. The same reasoning should apply to the Hill style longbow... even though it can be shot any old way, according to the shooters personal style. Do you want to get the best out of the bow?...shoot it with the best method devised for it....
I've noticed that the majority of people who say to me in print or on the phone that they can shoot the Hill style bow however they want, and they don't believe it matters or they don't want to change their form to fit the Hill-style bow...these people don't shoot this style bow well, they go through Hill style bows like water, and always go back to their other bows whatever style of bow that may be. And that is ok with me. Shoot whatever bow is the most comfortable to you, whatever style of bow fits your physique, personal makeup, likes, whatever...be it a Yumi bow, Korean C bow, english longbow, selfbow, ILF recurve, R/D bows, or Hill style longbow....it's all good, but in their own unique way each shoots better if you shoot them with their nuances in mind.... :thumbsup:
i strongly disagree, nate.
there are a myriad of valid approaches to stringed machines that work exceedingly well, and the only correct one is the one that works best for the operator.
i.e., to say that the only way to approach classical guitar is via segovia's teachings is absurd. it's the same for the american flat longbow and howard hill.
i will say to all - be observant of all shooting forms, try as many as you can, use whatever works best for you. if possible, seeking out a valid, certified coach to make sure your form foundation is on the right track is always a good thing. above all, don't allow anyone to tell you how you should shoot a bow, but do listen to those who suggest methods and procedures for you to trial.
My experience is very limited but I will say "for me" changing my grip on my Hill style bows has made a big difference in my shooting for the better.
When I 1st became serious about archery like a lot of others I started with the wheeled type bows.
Shooting that style of bow, the best way was to not exactly hold the bow but allow it to rest in my bow hand with a "very" relaxed hold so as not to torque the bow in any way.
Fast forward to my traditional history.
I started with self bows, progressed to modern recurves then r/d bows and now finally Hill/Hill style bows.
My grip was still a modified wheel bow style grip and it worked for me. It was just not as consistent as I wanted it to be.
I was using what I knew.. but I decided to be open to trying it differently.
Did it feel natural the 1st day?
Nope!
But by day two it was coming around and now I don't even have to think about it and my accuracy is coming back and even better it is becoming more consistent each and every day.
I will continue to make any change(s) that are necessary to constantly improve my shooting and my enjoyment of shooting.
It's all good... take what works for you... leave the rest but you'll be doing yourself a "Good" if you are willing to try anything that's make you better.
The better I am, the more I enjoy it... I have a hard time believing that one myself...lol but only because I was already "ate-up" with it!...lol
God bless,Mudd
PS: I want to thank each and every one of you that has taken your time to share with us on this thread in particular. It's been a real learning experience for me... some of what I learned is more important than how I shoot a bow.. what I learned about was/is you!!
Whooo Hoooo!!! I have read every post in this thread and I am delighted that it is beginning to evolve into a serious discussion of the application of the Hill-style form to the Hill-style bow. Thank you all, gentlemen. I am one of those pathetic unfortunates who is quite competent with a recurve but has really struggled with the unique challenges of the heel-down, straight grip, bent elbow, swing draw elements of the Hill-style methodology. The films, photo's, and discussions are invaluable. Agree or disagree with one another as you will--this discussion is helping a LOT of people! Again, my thanks.
All this talk has me Jones-in for HH yew ... :) :pray:
Rob,Mudd and Owl,No truer words have been said than the last three posts.Mudd your experiences with the HH are exactly what I went through.
Trials,Tribulations and like Robb said an open mind helped me come a long way on my shooting longbows.This post has been a complete boom for anyone interested in the longbow .Kudus to you all for helping so many.
The one thing I HAVE TO DO when I shoot a Hill bow to be accurate is to squeeze the handle with my bottom two fingers (my pinkie and the one above it).
If I do that, it forces me to have perfect contact/pressure with the heel of my hand and puts my wrist in the perfect position.
It's simple as could be, but it works extremely well.
Anyone else use this same technique to get the heel pressure right?
ooopppssss!!
I messed up on this one... read my next post.
I am sorry! Please excuse me!
Thank you!
God bless, Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
The one thing I HAVE TO DO when I shoot a Hill bow to be accurate is to squeeze the handle with my bottom two fingers (my pinkie and the one above it).
If I do that, it forces me to have perfect contact/pressure with the heel of my hand and puts my wrist in the perfect position.
It's simple as could be, but it works extremely well.
Anyone else use this same technique to get the heel pressure right?
This and the position of my thumb knuckle are the two things I adjusted to improve my shooting... It works... for me!
God bless,Mudd
I do, Rik--and if you've ever mentioned it before in a post on any number of forums, I probably learned it from you. Thanks. It works. This is what I'm talking about. We all have these bows. We all love these bows. I hope we can help one another get increasingly deadly with them. Hill-style mentors are pretty scarce in my neighborhood. Sure, I've read the books and I'm doing my best to wear out the Shultz CD, but John says "you have to grab a'hold of it" because Howard told him "you have to grab a'hold of it". Which is true, I guess, but your insight made THAT insight a lot more useful to me. That's why threads like this are very important.
QuoteOriginally posted by Owlmagnet:
... Sure, I've read the books and I'm doing my best to wear out the Shultz CD, but John says "you have to grab a'hold of it" because Howard told him "you have to grab a'hold of it". Which is true, I guess, but your insight made THAT insight a lot more useful to me. That's why threads like this are very important.
i think it's good that some folks can "hand shake" a straight grip and use that with consistent accuracy.
I do as well Rik. If you want to see how grip pressure affects the bow, try applying pressure with different combinations of fingers, i.e. the first two, middle two, and then the last two. This little drill will convince you that where you apply pressure to a Hill grip is very important in how the bow feels at the shot!
I'm very glad that you all are getting something from the clips I made. I'll post some links to the new ones once they're done.
Rik, that is one of the foundational parts of great Hill bow shooting....goood stuff
Rob, the Hill style principles are attributed mostly to Hill, but they are the things that most of the top shooters of the day also did, Hill just incorporated them into his style. Pope, Young, Compton, and others also used a form very similar. Just as in using a viola and holding the viola bow, there is a certain way to do it, no matter who the master musician is they all use the same principles, it's not just willy nilly. That's my point, Hill was a master of his style of shooting, which also happens to work well with his style of bow...it just makes sense to learn his technique and adapt it to personal physique and preferences....
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
Rik, that is one of the foundational parts of great Hill bow shooting....goood stuff
Rob, the Hill style principles are attributed mostly to Hill, but they are the things that most of the top shooters of the day also did, Hill just incorporated them into his style. Pope, Young, Compton, and others also used a form very similar. Just as in using a viola and holding the viola bow, there is a certain way to do it, no matter who the master musician is they all use the same principles, it's not just willy nilly. That's my point, Hill was a master of his style of shooting, which also happens to work well with his style of bow...it just makes sense to learn his technique and adapt it to personal physique and preferences....
good stuff to know, understand and try - but usage is always arbitrary and absolutely not mandatory. we're all experiments of one.
If you watch some of Hills early stuff the bow slips down through his hand after the shot. I have tried a lot of different methods to shoot my Hill, I find I shoot it best when i just shoot and don't think about what I'm doing :thumbsup:
I'm not mandating any system as "the system" that has to be used for success....there are shooters who can shoot very well with multiple styles of bows...but they are in the minority.
my intention in my statements is to help or direct guys who want to shoot these Hill style bows better to a system that is conducive to accurate, comfortable, Hill bow shooting....
as I've said many times before, to each their own....
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
... as I've said many times before, to each their own....
that is all that matters and the only correct approach to much of life. :)
Wahoo!
Now we are all on the same page again!!
Again I can not thank all of you who have posted here enough.
There's more good information and advice given in these "few" pages than I've found in a whole slew of books.
I am so very appreciative of each one of your contributions.
It sure didn't hurt my eyes with all of the beautiful pictures either.
I have one of the plainer but sweeter shooting "Hill" style bows that I could ask for in my Osage Royale 66" 52@28
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01051.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01052.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01055.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01056.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01314.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Mudd,
your form is lookin' fine....real fine :thumbsup: now you are controlling the bow, it's not controlling you...
I thank Spanky for the time and effort in putting the Hill form basics out there in a modern medium, in laymen's terms, in a further explanation of instruction that has lain dormant for too long....
Schulz, Wesley, and Miller through video and classes have taught many, many people but Spanky's little clips have the chance to reach many more....and he's not to proud to hold some of that info back for himself.... :clapper:
QuoteOriginally posted by Owlmagnet:
I have read every post in this thread and I am delighted that it is beginning to evolve into a serious discussion of the application of the Hill-style form to the Hill-style bow. Thank you all, gentlemen.
+1 here! A big mahalo from Hawaii!
There are some that say that at no time in his life was Segovia ever the best guitarist in the world. he did not reinvent how to play the classical guitar there were others that used the nails for sound before him. What he did have is a passion to play to the world and many have come to the forefront because of his skill and art including my friend Julian Bream, who uses much of the same basics as Segovia but is quite different in his philosophy and his interpretations.
Hill said that Swineheart was a better size for shooting a longbow than he was. Much of the form was the same, he was a bit straighter up and perhaps had a slightly straighter bow arm, but the philosophy of how to use a longbow was similar. There are aspects of Hill's form that are worth considering for most shooters. The spread draw allows the bow to come into action with more versatility. The bent bow arm helps keep the shoulders in line while aiding in aiming flexibility and timing. With my longbows that have more of a fifties Bear style grip my arm is a bit straighter and my my grip is of course adjusted to match that particular bow. A flexible shot is still possible with the different grip but it is a little different. the best I ever did on quarters tossed across my four foot target was 5 out of 6 at 10 or 12 yards, a freak day of being in the zone, that was done with a Bear Super K. I can not begin to shoot a longbow with the same bow arm or grip as I do with the Super K. The bows that have the fifties styled Bear Kodiak grip are about halfway between the Super K and the straight Hill grips for application. More than just how we each get a bow to be our friend, the use of a bow takes on a different character when a fast and flexible form is adapted. shots that were not even considered before all of a sudden become a serious attempt, especially when rabbit hunting.
All that I still say that if one wants to try to figure why Hill was as good as he was, it is worth studying exactly what he did when he shot. He may have bent his arm to help out with his arrow spines, but it is possible that the change helped him do other things as well. It is also possible that for many bending the bow arm that far will not work, because they do not have the strength to do that.
WOW WAY TO MUCH TYPING FOR ME, I need to take a time out now.
well i guess i was wrong. it does appear as if some of you feel there is only one best/true/whatever way to address american flat longbow shooting form and nothing else could/should work as well. if so, and i hope i'm wrong, that's utter nonsense.
from what i've seen of howard's shooting films, he sure had his own style and he was really good a what he did. i think too many folks idolized him to the point of revering most everything he did, including how he shot a longbow. well, none of us are howard hill in both physique and pure genes talent. i've seen guys "shooting like howard" that should stop that immediately and rethink their form, 'cause they're just not consistently accurate. and for sure there are folks "hitting 'em hard like howard" that do very well. just don't imply that there is only one consistently accurate way to use a flat longbow, 'cause that's way wrong.
i think of archery thisaway - it's a unique and subjective freeform aiming sport that depends, for reasons of consistent accuracy success, mostly on individual human attributes of both physique, vision and 'tween-the-ears gray matter. find out what works best for you and then don't look back.
Pavan,
good points. In the music analogy, I was stating that comparing the techniques of recurves or r/d bows to Hill style bows is like guitars to violas... You hold a guitar differently than a viola, yet both have strings, necks, similar curves, tuning pegs, etc. However, if you want to play a viola well, you absolutely will not hold it the same and play it the same as a guitar and vice versa.....
that's my whole point, which has been missed....learn to shoot/play your instrument based on knowledge and teaching techniques of those who have mastered that instrument. That is basic common sense....
Of course you will adjust those techniques to fit your personality, physique, or whatever. That's part of our individuality, and also what helps humanity improve on past performances
:clapper: I'm with Mudd, I'd like to thank all who have contributed to this thread. There has been a ton of great information shared here, and even though it is a passion for all of us, I have been impressed with the civility shown in expressing our varied opinions as regards the best way to tame this beast.
Admittedly there are a variety of ways to use a longbow, but if one has no prior knowledge of longbows, where does one start learning. To me it is obvious, start with the man that perfected the use of the design and designed the bow around himself and how he was going to use it. Talk about being civil, no one has yet said the only way to sharpen a Hill broadhead. My own Hill broadheads are radically different than regular Hills, I wish they were available to everyone with the single bevel. They really do work well for us, no matter which technique we use to sharpen them. I cannot get a regular Hill broadhead shaving sharp, but I can get singles easily shaving sharp. A partial serration can be added to that shaving edge as well. Off topic I know, but my point being that even if we aspire to Hill the results will come out different from individual to individual, with certain similarities. It is common to see that when someone thinks they are doing it like Hill in reality they may find that they are not and have basic flaws in their attempt that short circuits their successes. I know, I was one of them. the invention of the video camera caused a real shock for how I shot. What something feels like to how something really is can be quite different, it was for me.
we're back on the same page, pavan - way cool. :)
The reason I like the Masters DVDs are that they make it quite clear that many are the paths to shooting happiness.
Mudd, perhaps someday I shall commission a bow from Craig named "Cheeky Bloody Crocodile" or something. My collection lacks an osage bow.
Can you believe this is closing in on 3000 posts?
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
Wahoo!
Now we are all on the same page again!!
Again I can not thank all of you who have posted here enough.
There's more good information and advice given in these "few" pages than I've found in a whole slew of books.
I am so very appreciative of each one of your contributions.
It sure didn't hurt my eyes with all of the beautiful pictures either.
I have one of the plainer but sweeter shooting "Hill" style bows that I could ask for in my Osage Royale 66" 52@28
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01051.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01052.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01055.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Osage%20Royale%20by%20Chuck%20Jones/DSC01056.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/DSC01314.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
She sure looks like a pure joy to shoot!
Congratulations on a real fine bow
F-Manny
I am thinking my stable needs an Osage hill as well. Mudd thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the videos Spanky.
Great stuff everyone. :clapper: :clapper: :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Great videos Spanky!
Another thing this thread is missing, pictures of the old ones. There is something cool about old work horse longbows. It used to be that we only had one or two at a time, back in the 60s and 70s, most of those have got to be around somewhere.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
It used to be that we only had one or two...
:campfire: Some of us are still there.
Mudd,
Who did you tell me was the bowyer of the Osage Royale?
Chuck Jones is the name on the bow.
Flint kemper knows him and vouches for him.
I've never met him or even spoken with him but my Osage Royale speaks volumes about him as a bowyer.
Flint will be in my area this coming Thursday and I'll try to gather as much information as possible.
I'll keep you posted.
If we're lucky maybe Flint will read this and send us his information.
I sure can't find anything on the web...lol
But you have to consider how technologically challenged I am...lol
God bless,Mudd
Mudd, sent you a PM. Chuck Jones hails from just outside of Vandalia,Illinois and started building bows in 1979. He and his wife currently build the Black Rhino bows. He built bows under then name Okaw Valley longbows. His top of the line model was the Osage Royale like Mudd has. He also built a reflex/deflex bow and reflex and straight bows and a few rare recurves as well. He uses other woods but really likes Osage. I am proud to call him a friend and he is quite the craftsman. He does not build many of the Osage Royals anymore but still will if requested the last I knew. Hope this helps. Flint
Mudd,
I know your Osage Royal (ROI) is you favorite sweetie (so far) and I can't wait to shoot her.
This new "flavor" could easily become yet another slippery slope for some of us bow poor fellas.
QuoteOriginally posted by longbowben:
Im ordering a new Wesley special today 66" 58@28 Now im going to have to tell the wife. :knothead:
Less than 20 words turned into a 141 pg, 2110 post count thread....WOW! :eek:
I don't have much to add, but I just had to comment on the shear life of this thread!!!
Thanks Mudd, and thanks Flint.
Flint, sent you a PM.
From when this thread began to now, how many of you have bought or ordered a Hill bow?
bought 3, sold 1
I'd tell you but then I'd have to send out a hit-man!
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
From when this thread began to now, how many of you have bought or ordered a Hill bow?
bought one, two on order..
Had one and ordered two, Redman, the last one should be here shortly. Hopefully that will hold me over for a while.
Bought 3, sold 2.
Trying to stick with one, but it's killing me. Ha, Ha, Ha...
Darren
I bought a Half-Breed back around a hundred pages ago! :)
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo306/bhaukom/DSCN1812.jpg)
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo306/bhaukom/DSCN1814.jpg)
Dave Miller stated this was the foremost collection of Howard Hills actually made by Howard. This was shown at Kalamazoo. Pavan this was for you.
Smoke.. that's awesome!!!!
Your post might have been intended for Pavan but I'm one of the ones also drooling.
Thanks for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
Hills at Moses Lake...
I'm wondering how many of you are planning to take your Hills (styles) to Moses Lake? I will be there and I think it would be neat to get together an all Hill group for a round on one of the courses.
Takers?
I bought 2, sold 1 of them and ordered another.
Thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to see.
There is just something about the lines in these bows, a grace and elegance, yet one can almost feel the fierceness and efficiency just by staring at them.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
From when this thread began to now, how many of you have bought or ordered a Hill bow?
Ordered mine up about 2 weeks before this thread started based of a predecessor thread. Maybe the same one that lead Ben to start this one.
I posted that I made my decision between a mohawk and a Hill and ordered a Hill Owl. Just changed my mind on the Owl and went with The Ruffed Grouse instead..... but heck , its still a Hill!!
Bought a Red Cheetah and traded for a fox takedown,both beautiful bows.
Bought one, on the verge of ordering another.
Gerald
Mudd, the ones in the rack were made by Hill and the ones lying on the table as I remember were Schultz bows made for Howard.
One.
And nice Hill Hills, too.
I do believe Ben has coined a new and useful phrase:
"HILL HILL"
Well I got my new Hill style bow this weekend at the KYTradFest. Steve Turay of Northern Mist Longbows brought it down from U.P. setting up as one of the venders. I memtioned ordering it a "boo quoo" of posts ago. It's a 66", 55 lbs. at 28",tembered bamboo(peanut-butter colored limbs), Shelton with green glass on the belly and back, Maccasar ebony risor and tip and grip overlays. It is a two piece takedown using the connection hinge.
Steve modifys the hinge so you don't have slide in sidways like on a Mohawk. You just push the upper and low sectoins at a angle straight in then assemble and string the bow. It's hard to notice that its a 2 pc. with a connection hinge.
It has a straight grip but it has a palm swell on the bow hand side of the grip. It acts as a locator grip with a straight grip look. You only notice the swell when you grip the bow. a really comfortable feel. Thought "Rob D" might appreciate that touch.
I really like it. Reallizing a photo would be better than all the above verbage, but can't do photos right now. May need a little help cause I can't get on "p" bucket for awhile!
Steve built a beautiful bow. Hope photos to come soon.
The Old Guy,
You fellas need to check out the thread "St. Judes Hunt Down Under" in the making for a fine adventure in "Hill" country.RC
A few favourites from today:
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_3095.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_3120.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_3129.jpg)
Nice Ben ,
Does it get any better than a day afield with the dog , bow and a quiver of arrows ?
Bring on the dry season eh !
Absolutely, Ben!
Lads, Mr. Maher has only just arrived back in Australia (I thought he was already back a couple of weeks ago) and if we're good he'll show us some pictures of his adventures with his HH Robin Hood Special!
From my recent hunt in NZ ...
a small Billy from the foothills of some beautiful but extremely rugged mountains .
later in the trip I hunted Red deer further south in Fiordland and saw what can only be described as Gods country ... simply stunning !
Equip ...
T/d 52 # Rhino 66" string follow
1 2016 arrow tipped with STOS 160 head , fletched with some beautiful turkey feathers given to me my mate Rob Di Stefano
1 Green Arrow t shirt
This goat was later stewed with some veggioes and chilli ... beautiful !
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/NZGOAT.jpg)
I also later in trip managed to catch a 9 pound trout ... mmmmm yummm
i'll post more pics later
here is me and the boys with our gear .. and me and my Robin Hood # 13
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/nzdad7.jpg)
Ben and Ben - Thanks for sharing the happy moments! Great days with wonderful weather and good friends are tough to beat!
:campfire:
QuoteOriginally posted by 3Under:
Well I got my new Hill style bow this weekend at the KYTradFest. Steve Turay of Northern Mist Longbows brought it down from U.P. setting up as one of the venders. I memtioned ordering it a "boo quoo" of posts ago. It's a 66", 55 lbs. at 28",tembered bamboo(peanut-butter colored limbs), Shelton with green glass on the belly and back, Maccasar ebony risor and tip and grip overlays. It is a two piece takedown using the connection hinge.
Steve modifys the hinge so you don't have slide in sidways like on a Mohawk. You just push the upper and low sectoins at a angle straight in then assemble and string the bow. It's hard to notice that its a 2 pc. with a connection hinge.
It has a straight grip but it has a palm swell on the bow hand side of the grip. It acts as a locator grip with a straight grip look. You only notice the swell when you grip the bow. a really comfortable feel. Thought "Rob D" might appreciate that touch.
I really like it. Reallizing a photo would be better than all the above verbage, but can't do photos right now. May need a little help cause I can't get on "p" bucket for awhile!
Steve built a beautiful bow. Hope photos to come soon.
The Old Guy,
GOT to have pics larry!!!
please send to me for posting!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Van Dort:
Ben and Ben - Thanks for sharing the happy moments! Great days with wonderful weather and good friends are tough to beat!
:campfire:
I am in almost 100% in agreement.
The only word I would change of Tony's is "tough".
It would be replaced with "impossible" and I would add that anyone who has even one good friend is truly blessed.
God bless,Mudd
Will do Rob.
We had bad storms yesterday-got blue sky this a.m.
Will be out with the digital today. You'll prob. get several emails cause we have dial-up!
Yup 3U, we need some pics, the Shelton is my Faaaavorite LB !!
Eric
larry's (3under) northern mist shelton ...
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s1.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s2.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s3.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s4.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s5.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s6.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s7.jpg)
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s8.jpg)
That Shelton is NICE!
Love the green glass & the hinge!
Hey Gang-
I know that we all are Howard Hill enthusists because of the simple yet classic design of the bow and how well they function. I was also wondering what other Hill or Hill related memoriablia and collectiables you have.
Please name your most favorite.
My collection:
1) Hunting the Hardway - Autographed by Jerry Hill.
2) Wild Adventure - St. Charles(Legends of the Longbow) Autographed by Jerry Hill
**Most Favorite**
3) My Methoed of Shooting- Howard Hill Autographed by Jerry Hill
4) Howard Hill, The Man and the Legend - Autographed by Craig Ekin
5) Bob Wesley Video Indirect aiming, Autographed- With a sliver of wood from Howard Hills target stand.
6) Primitive Archery Magazine - article on Howard Hill Archery
7) Hitting'm like Howard Hill - Book and Video
8) Howard Hill - video points on arrows
9) Howard Hill - DVD hunting, fishing with Ben Pearson
10)Early Adventures of Howard Hill by Don Carson
Darren
Larry-
Beautiful bow, and Steve did a wonderful job with the connexion hinge.
Congrats,
Darren
beautifu! cannot wait for mine.
My longbows with straight grips have the palm bias as well. Not something that is easy to do on a new bow, but it is what worked for me. My son shot the Northern Mist bows at Waterloo and told me that Steve really knows his stuff. He fell in love with a Whisper Stick, that he said just fell into his hand when he shot it. Nice bows.
Wow! The green glass is killer! Nice!
Larry that is a Beaut!!
Eric
Larry, I love that bow, thanks for sharing.
Beautiful bow Larry!
Steve T. will be a vendor at the Howard Hill Sotheastern Classic Shoot in Tannehill Alabama the first weekend in June. I'm really looking forward to trying some Northen Mist bows while I'm there.
Any of you die hard Hill shooters attending that event?
QuoteOriginally posted by JohnHV:
Beautiful bow Larry!
Steve T. will be a vendor at the Howard Hill Sotheastern Classic Shoot in Tannehill Alabama the first weekend in June. I'm really looking forward to trying some Northen Mist bows while I'm there.
Any of you die hard Hill shooters attending that event?
I would love to go, but unfortunately it's hard to get those days off on the calender at work.
Darren
Thanks "TradGuys" for the compliments and thanks to Steve for a makin' a great bow!
Larry
Here is one of my 1st attempts at a trick shot.
I put a pull tab on a broken arrow shaft, then from 12 yards I made this shot with my Osage Royale.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/DSC01352.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/DSC01353.jpg)
Thanks for looking!
God bless,Mudd
Mudd way to go! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Well Done! :archer:
I'll even give you the benefit of the doubt and assume that there weren't any arrows pulled before the picture was taken.... :biglaugh:
Mudd is ready for the big time. Who volunteers to toss coins for Mudd? Nice shot. I need to try that one.
:archer:
Mudd-
Congrats,
Darren
Mudd, great shot!! :clapper:
Gerald
Great shot, keep it up and could get pricy !!
Nice shot, Mudd!
Mudd,
great shot....what are you looking at other bows for? looks like you found a good shooter! :thumbsup:
Great Shot Mudd! :thumbsup:
Yeah buddy!
You got it done! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Roy has been talking about honing his skill by trying this shot for over a week now....and he finally made the time to actually do it!
Up next .....aww..I'll let him tell you.
Roy, I'll be happy to hold your next "target" LOL
in response to Darren's post, I have...
Books:
Hunting the Hard Way
Wild Adventure
Sagittarius
Hitten em like Howard Hill
Straight Shooting
My Method of Shooting by Howard Hill
magazine articles from the 70's up concerning Hill and Schulz
Dvd/videos:
all of Howard's movie shorts available
Hitten em like Howard Hill
John Lee's info on Howard Hill
1 Schulz Howard Hill longbow
1 Schulz Trophy Hunter longbow
and lots of Howard Hill and Hunter's Head broadheads....lol
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
[QB] larry's (3under) northern mist shelton ...
(http://www.tradgang.com/mem-imgs/s1.jpg)
******************************
Larry,
Congratulations on you new Shelton!
It's a beaut! :thumbsup:
******************************
Nate-
I would love to get a copy of Sagittarius, the ones that I've seen are just too expensive for me. Do you have a favorite?
Darren
I have the same books pretty much as Nate but my favourite and what started it all for me is Swinehart ...
folowed very closely by anything John Schulz has written . I could read Straight shooting everyday !
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
I have the same books pretty much as Nate but my favourite and what started it all for me is Swinehart ...
folowed very closely by anything John Schulz has written . I could read Straight shooting everyday !
Ben-
Straight shooting is another book that I'm interested in. I've only seen it once on *bay.
Darren
Would love to get a copy of Sagitarius,had a chance years ago and blew it,I'm still kicking my butt!
I just bought Early Adventures of Howard Hill by Don Carson. Don Carson was a close friend of Howard Hill.
This is what he said sbout it, "Step back in time to the classical era of archery with a story of Howard Hill and Don Carson. Written by Don Carson Who worked for Howard at the Opa-Locka archery club in Opa-Locka Florida. The story takes place during the period of 1925-1935 and meanders through the swamps of Florida to the early years of archery in California,where Howards career skyrocketed. Read stories of chasing bobcats through the swamps and shooting alligators from a dugout canoe. 168 pages with 46 never seen before photos."
The guy wrote this said it was pretty good, I hope so!
Anyone else read it.
It was only $12.00 shipped.
Darren
QuoteOriginally posted by tradlongbow:
Hey Gang-
I know that we all are Howard Hill enthusists because of the simple yet classic design of the bow and how well they function. I was also wondering what other Hill or Hill related memoriablia and collectiables you have.
Please name your most favorite.
My collection:
1) Hunting the Hardway - Autographed by Jerry Hill.
2) Wild Adventure - St. Charles(Legends of the Longbow) Autographed by Jerry Hill
**Most Favorite**
3) My Methoed of Shooting- Howard Hill Autographed by Jerry Hill
4) Howard Hill, The Man and the Legend - Autographed by Craig Ekin
5) Bob Wesley Video Indirect aiming, Autographed- With a sliver of wood from Howard Hills target stand.
6) Primitive Archery Magazine - article on Howard Hill Archery
7) Hitting'm like Howard Hill - Book and Video
8) Howard Hill - video points on arrows
9) Howard Hill - DVD hunting, fishing with Ben Pearson
10) Early Adventures of Howard Hill by Don Carson
Darren
double post
Just went through a selling spree and got rid of most of my books , vhs and dvd's, Kept Asbell, and paul brunners shooting video's though . good stuff to constantly remind myself of.7C
Seven crows nice to have you at :campfire: with us. Get some pics on here of the new Hill when it arrives.
Darren
I wanted to see if I could get "lucky" again today.
Same bow, same distance but the shooting wasn't quite as good as yesterdays..lol
Judge for your self.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/th_MOV01357.jpg) (http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/?action=view¤t=MOV01357.mp4)
God bless,Mudd
Cool stuff Mudd !
The Don Carson book is excellent ! A must have !
Mudd, that 1st shot was soooo close! Almost ready for the big time!
Gerald :notworthy:
You bet Darren , as soon as it arrives. Thanks by the way for your help with the decision. peace,7C
Well, got my 7-Lakes Hill-Style bow blank. Mike formed the grip, shelf and put in the overlays. :eek: Being mechanically challenged, I figured that sanding and applying poly would be something I could do. While my work is no where near bowyer quality, it's good enough for me to shoot the bow and experience the magic of "straight limbs". Enclosed are some pics of the finished product. I named the bow "Florida Night". :pray: Hope this comes out right - cause I'm a complete rookie at this picture thing.
Rick (//s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose)
We will see if the HH bug is going to bite me. I received word that my new to me bow was shipped today. It is a 58 inch 48@27 Howard Hill Badger with black glass, black ebony riser and ivory tips. Now the anticipation begins.
Mudd that is some awesome shooting buddy...keep it up! :clapper:
on the last page "SUNSET HILL" refered to a book "SAGITARIUS". I own a bow built by Mr. s
Schulz when he worked for "HOWARD HILL".
Is it possible that there is a connection?
I have never read the book.
good shooting Mudd!
Pictures. I think I figured this out. Anyway another try on the 7-Lakes bow blank project. Florida Night (http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose)
The quartering angle of this photo we had in the magazine (first issue I think) shows more about proper Hill form than just about any photo you will ever see.
Hand placement, wrist angle, elbow bend, shoulder position, anchor, it's all there.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Howard_Hill_at_Full_Draw.jpg)
Great pic, Rik. I've never seen that one. Thanks for posting it!
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose/IMG_1393.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose/IMG_1391_2.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose/IMG_1394-2.jpg)
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose/IMG_1390.jpg)
images no wider than 640 please
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n547/rickydcrose/IMG_1387_2-1.jpg)
:clapper: Thanks, Mudd.
Rick
Question on Draw weight and bow length. I have always shot shorter bows 52-60"(recurves and longbows). My first Hill was 60".
I have a 26.5" draw. So I generally make complete use of limbs on these shorter bows. (they bend a lot)
Questions: Do longer bows feel lighter /or are they actually easier to pull higher weights with because you are not using as much of the limb?? ( do not bend as much). How would draw weight compare/feel on 60" Hill 50#@ 26.5" vs 68" Hill 50#@26.5". They are tillered for the same draw but less limb is used on longer bow so could it actually feel lighter?
I am sure I will not notice much difference from 60" to my New 62", but I am wondering???? I await the TG wisdom,7C
Rik,
Thanks for posting the pic..it is also new for me.
Howard seems to be in a much more relaxed posture here as opposed to many other pics from different angles. He is standing more upright.
My take.....he is telling us that even "his" personal form has "wiggle room" as long as the foundational things are there. The bow arm angle, grip, and anchor are consistent.
Rik,
great photo, I'd never seen that one either...I don't think it was in your first issue. I'll go back and look....
Your form is extremely similar to Hill's form....only you set your arm first to get into position. Now if I could only convince you to learn the swing draw....lol
So what is the Hill form? I've been reading this post from the beginning. Folks seem to think his quick swing draw is it.
Look at this photo, that Rik has posted!
John Shulz's shooting is pure swing, instinctive shooting! Howard could "control" the shot as needed!
Rick..great job! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
That modified leather grip is a nice personal touch too.
Did you have help with the skins? I have always wanted to do that - makes for some beautiful camo.
How 'bout a report..so how does he shoot?
Great photo Mate ! I haven't seen that one before I don't think ... I'll go back and check first issue too
Took the "Florida Night" out today :thumbsup: - no hand shock whatsoever (so long as I shot low wrist & placed the grip on my lifeline). It is also the quietest bow I own. Very good cast and smooth. My POC 40-45 lbs shoot well. However, I do have a confession... the snake skins are actually wraps from OneStringer; the leather grip was ordered from 3 Rivers. But I am very pleased with the bow and the price was certainly right. :biglaugh: Now I am looking forward to getting my Cumberland from Marty at Apex Predator.
Anyone notice how beautiful Howard's bow looks in that last photo? I'll bet it's in a draw weight just perfect for me. Wonder where it is now?
If I am de-cyphering that photograph correctly, Howard's lower finger is just floating on the string, not really holding any weight once it gets to full draw.
I've done that my whole life, placing about 97 percent of the bow weight on two fingers once I am at full draw. I start my draw with 33.3 percent on each finger, but at full draw, my lower finger is there only for looks.
Until just now, I thought I was the only one who basically shoots with two fingers.
Nate, any insights? Is it just the angle of the photograph? Am I crazy? (Don't answer that last question---you may cause others to laugh out loud,and this is a SERIOUS forum).
Rik,
I was looking at that, too. Recently, I have been talking with Nate about my ring finger pressure and have taken to shooting like you describe. I have had problems unrelated to archery with my tendons in my string hand. I saw a specialist in Boise about the symptoms a few years ago. He told me what to do about shortening and thickening tendons - hand stretches. What I notice is that I don't open my pinky with the other three fingers and plucking ensued. Now, I see the ring finger getting slow. Guess it "go time" for the stretching. Anyway, "floating" the ring finger has helped with my release and where the arrow hits. I have joined the crazy club with you!
Ray
I have a photo around here somewhere of Hill really loading the string with the ring finger, but most are balanced like the one here. I would bet that there is more pressure on that ring finger than the picture suggests. Hill said the ring finger is the trigger finger. I take that to mean it is the first one to let go. I can say that if one shoots with a real strong ring finger, it will affect your nocking point setting.
On this in the first little bit one can see that ring finger go first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFqjNKC72dA&feature=related
for me, the third (ring) finger goes along for the ride and the majority of the load is on the middle finger. in essence, this emulates a release aid, for best consistency of release. most serious target archers use that string grip, and it's just fine for hunters as well. the flemish two finger grip/release does the same thing without the pretense of using the ring finger. :)
I must do about the same thing, my middle and index finger were the ones getting wore out when I was shooting the 90 pounders, while the ring finger stayed healthy. It is the one thing I do not have worked out completely naturally when i shoot left handed, slows me up a little.
I seem to put way too much pressure on my ring finger--and have the callouses to prove it. I am trying very hard to increase the use of my index finger, which has been getting a free ride. My release needs a lot of work. I have always used a static release, but I seem to be getting a more evenly distributed pull--and less of a tendency to pluck--when I focus on a more dynamic, pull-through release. Heresy! (I know, I know: "At the release, with both hands, do nothing.")
Rik...
according to info I received from Schulz, if the drawing arm is straight inline with the arrow, your fingers will pretty much line up with the string on the first joint, although with many people (myself included) the second finger joint doesn't align with the other two fingers, so the string sits back a little farther on the pad while the string is in the joint of the first and ring fingers. Schulz liked a straight inline drawing arm....however, I've seen plenty of Hill photos and shooting that shows his drawing arm elbow a little high, which would put pressure on the ring finger if it's not kept relaxed. I think that the majority of the photos I've seen of Hill, this is the case. that's a result of his body mechanics I'm sure. A straight drawing arm is good mechanics to attain to, which lends itself to a good release hand position....
I just woke up from a nap. Last night my furnace tried to over heat and burn my house down. Limiter spring stuck. i had a dream of me flying down the road after high school on my little Bridgestone motorcycle, 58" recurve with my four exposed broadheads in my kwickee quiver, heading for the river bottoms. when I got there and all of a sudden, I did not have my recurve with four exposed broadheads, I was not in that much danger as they were never all that sharp, (still, they did kill that deer). what I had instead is this long extremely complicated Hill thing and I could not for the life of me pull it back or figure out how to get the arrows out of the back quiver. I woke up somehow longing for those simple days, when I did not think about stuff so much, the simple life of a country boy in the 60s.
Time to get back on page one. Shot my new to me Big Five today at the CTA 3D club shoot. Bow is 50lbs.@ 28 (weighs 52) and is 68" long. I purchased this bow from far rider 1 month ago and have been shooting it almost daily since then. I draw 26.5-27 depending on shooting position and although I initially thought I would prefer a 66", this bow seems to be a good fit. Although we did't keep score, I shot as well or better than I ever have with my recurves. Targets ran from probably 10-maybe 25 yds. Lots of shoot between the trees and branches targets and surprisingly I made all of those. We had a great set up of 20 targets including 2 from a tree stand platform and our new running javelina. The guys set up a great shoot and tasty BBQ lunch. Anyway, I had always wanted to try a HH bow and so far I am VERY happy with it. Still can't believe how quiet it is and everyone who has shot with me or has shot the bow themselves can't believe how fast it shoots a 500 gr. cedar. I guess all of this means I'm hooked, reel me in!
Gerald
GRS :archer:
Got me a Wesley Special. Still working on finding an arrow but I may have a real winner here. It is smooth, no hand shock and really quick.
CrisM, speaking of finding an arrow, my bow pulls about 48-49 at my draw length. I found that with a 28" bop cedar that a 50-55 would fly good, but a 45-50 was perfect with my Big Five. Isn't that amazing? Just what those charts from 50 yrs. ago said!
Gerald
In the higher weights, I get the best flight from arrows spined five pounds lighter than my bow.
For example, my 75-pound Hills shoot arrows spined 70-75 perfectly.
Does this five-pound-lighter rule hold true at the lighter weights?
Rik...Yep!
I shoot higher spine weights but only because i shoot 190 b'heads. With an arrow where I can use 125gn heads , i try to spine them matching my draw weight [ ie 50lb draw = 50 lb spine ] as i have discovered that this holds true for me with Doug Fir/ cedar etc
Hardwoods , for some reason I have to use heavier spine .
Shooting 160 grain heads, and drawing 29", I have successfully used 95/100# Douglas fir out of my 75# @ 28" WS; now, with the same arrow requirements, I use 80/85# out of my 60# @ 28" Redman. But, I must admit that I used to use 80/85# out of my 67# @ 28" Redman, and that wearing 190 grain heads. I have heard tell that some fellows have found a rather wide range of spines to work fine.
The footed hexshaft arrows that Bob Burton from whisperingwinds made for my Hill bows that are 45#-48#@29" draw and cut 30"BOP spine at 60-64#@28" (50-54#@30") with 125 grain heads
For those who can't wait, there are three Howard Hill bows for sale on **** right now! None are lefties. Rats! Pup
I have always had great success shooting arrows that are spined the same as the draw weight I shoot (at 28")--50-55 spine for my 50-55# bows work fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
I have always had great success shooting arrows that are spined the same as the draw weight I shoot (at 28")--50-55 spine for my 50-55# bows work fine.
That's interesting! and easy lol
Dave, I'm starting to think the same way with the arrows - used to make them up about 5-10 pound spine weight heavier than the actual bow weight @28". Arrows with the exact or slightly higher spine seem to shoot great out of these Howard Hill bows or similarly made longbows.
Hey guys what draw length and arrow length makes that work. It seems that I am only drawing around 26" with my hill bow.
Craig suggests 5# over draw wt. I realize that can vary with arrow length, diff point wt. but it's a good rule of thumb.
I've found that my Hills are not real picky and shoot a wide range of shafts well. My draw weights are 56 and 61 at 28"
You just have to experiment .
With a Hill bow and a shorter draw it is easier to get too stiff than too light a spine. At 26" 10 pounds under is a good place to start with a 26.5" to 27" bop.
Ya' know, I figure there is a reason those shafts are called "50-55# spine." Must be for 50-55# bows. :D I cut my shafts to 29" back of point and shoot 125-145 gr. points. Simple, huh?
;)
ttt not to drop to back page Ken
I need to get the camera out and get some shots of my hills as a group.
I love them all but my Half Breed has floated to the top of my hill list.
God bless,Mudd
guys,
when shooting woodies out of a hillstyle bow, the corresponding spine that matches the bow will usually work because:
a 28" arrow bop is actually 29" including the shaft inside the head...meaning it's 5# weaker than stated, which is good because the bows aren't cut to center and need a little more flex. This matches up to what Craig states..
If you have an arrow 29" bop, the shaft is actually 30", meaning it's 10# lighter than stated, which would mean that your shooting form likes weak arrows. This is all fine. If you are shooting heavier points than 125 gr. this weakens the shaft even more. Most guys forget about the shaft inside the head....
Rik, you are a anomaly in shooting....I mean this in a good sense. Your bows are 75# @ 28", yet you draw around 27" when you release, meaning your bow is around 71 - 72#. Remember, I've seen this....lol. You are cutting your shafts to 29" bop, meaning the shaft is 30" long for spine. Normally this would mean that your arrows 70/75 spine are actually 60/65 spine for 30"...shooting out of a 71-72# bow, with broadheads of 160 gr. weakening the arrow even more....How are you shooting 55-60# arrows out of your 72# bow? I do not know. Kelly didn't know either...however, I've seen you shoot, and the arrows fly straight....go figure. This is why archery is an individual sport and we each have to shoot what works for us....
QuoteThis is why archery is an individual sport and we each have to shoot what works for us....
:clapper: :clapper: :biglaugh:
Anomaly?
Actually, I prefer to think of myself as "Abby-Normal." It has a better ring to it!
To further compound the issue, I get that kind of arrow flight with three four-inch feathers. Back when I shot deflex-reflex longbows, I had to shoot three five-inch feathers to get really good arrow flight. Once I switched to Howard Hill bows, I was able to use four-inch fletch.
Being able to shoot with less fletching despite the Hill bows being cut farther from center than other bows doesn't quite make sense to my abby-normal brain, but it does work.
P.S. If you want to make Kelly really scratch his head, ask him how come his carbon arrows were only good for three our four shots from my Hill bow before breaking, while his wood arrows would last for months and months.
Hey Mudd, just got my Redman in. Can I send you some pics to post?
Rik,
I guess I'll have to assume that you are getting perfect arrow flight because....you're just that good!!!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by Blueridge:
Hey Mudd, just got my Redman in. Can I send you some pics to post?
You bet!
Send them on!
God bless, Mudd
Here you go Blueridge.
Nice looking Redman I must say!
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0526-1.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0516-1.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0533.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Where did they go? Oh well, just finished shooting it and wow is it smooth. 55#@28" and the full grip is real good. Not sure where the pics are but thanks Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
... You are cutting your shafts to 29" bop, meaning the shaft is 30" long for spine. Normally this would mean that your arrows 70/75 spine are actually 60/65 spine for 30"...shooting out of a 71-72# bow, with broadheads of 160 gr. weakening the arrow even more....How are you shooting 55-60# arrows out of your 72# bow? I do not know. Kelly didn't know either...however, I've seen you shoot, and the arrows fly straight....go figure. This is why archery is an individual sport and we each have to shoot what works for us....
i also can, and do, shoot very weak shafts w/hefty front end weights and achieve arrows that "fly on rails" out of most any kinda stick bow.
imho, a good half of the "what arrow will work well with my bow" question is ... the shooter ... and far too much time is wasted on charts and tables and diagrams. not that those things are bad, they're ball park at worst, usually.
as always, ymmv. ;)
Where did they go? Oh well, just finished shooting it and wow is it smooth. 55#@28" and the full grip is real good. Not sure where the pics are but thanks Mudd
Blue!
Happy for you buddy... :thumbsup:
I also wonder what happened to the pics.
I suspect Mudd will fix it soon enough.
Thanks Tony . Just took my bird dog out for a run and shot it while he was sniffin around. I am sold on Craigs bows.
QuoteOriginally posted by Blueridge:
Thanks Tony . Just took my bird dog out for a run and shot it while he was sniffin around. I am sold on Craigs bows.
you shot your dog??????????? :scared:
:D
Lol ! No my dog is a "him" the bow is an "it"
QuoteOriginally posted by Blueridge:
Lol ! No my dog is a "him" the bow is an "it"
:laughing:
QuoteOriginally posted by Blueridge:
Where did they go? Oh well, just finished shooting it and wow is it smooth. 55#@28" and the full grip is real good. Not sure where the pics are but thanks Mudd
I was just back at my post and I see the pictures.
But just in case here they are gain.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0526-1.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0516-1.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/IMG_0533.jpg)
"IT" is a beaut, Blue!!
The wait was definitely worth it, eh?
Oh yeah ! One interesting thing is my other 2 Hills have dished grips this one is full. Can't tell alot of difference but I may like the full grip a tad better. This bow is a good shooter for me. It's a keeper for sure.
Rob I did whiz a flu-flu 10 feet over Jacks ( my dog) head, he thought it was a pheasant ( probably ) and took off after it.
Blue,That is nice!Love the subtle colours.all the best with her (It) LOL
Beautiful !
Very nice...congrats!
Whoa, that's a gorgeous bow. Even got the shelf on the correct side. :thumbsup: You are so gonna enjoy that bow.
Great looking bow, congrats.
Another lovely bow!
Wow, to pretty to shoot. But go ahead and do it anyway!
Oh I have been. It shoots great! Like my other Hills , can't seem to put it down.
Very nice bow
Got an email from Craig today! Bow has been shipped. We'll see how long it takes to get across the border. Not bad considering I ordered 2 weeks ago!
Jesse .. mate we will need pics please ! Did you end up getting arrows sorted ? Hard without the bow I know but you'll want something to fling when it arrives eh !
Jesse,When I ordered my Hill a couple months ago I think it was 3 weeks total it got across the border real easy.
Ben, I just got a dozen POC shafts in the mail yesterday. hopefully ill have them ready to tune by the time the bow gets here.
I like the looks of that too, nice bow.
Where's the guys who started this thread? haven't heard from them in awhile. I hope their HH bug wasn't just the 24 hr flu.... :dunno:
Nate-
I found a copy of "Straught Shooting" by Schulz :bigsmyl:
I'm so happy!!!!
Darren :clapper:
Could be there will be a number that had the 24 hour longbow bug, the old wanting better than the having thing. I had the two week bronchial pneumonia thing and now I think that I should give away all of my longbows. NAW, JUST KIDDING!
Congrats on finding the straight shooting book, it is an enlightening if not somewhat hard core straight talk from John.
Darren,
good job, you'll like it... John was/is an extremely dedicated (opinionated) passionate protege of Hill. I guess he had the right to as he was taught by the best....Some people take him wrong, and some people don't believe what he says....whatever.
I personally believe he accurately describes the Hill style better than anyone, translated from Hill himself during a time period when Hill was in his prime as a hunter/shooter. Others who say they know about Hill's style did not spend as much time with Hill that Schulz did, or did they receive the amount of instruction that Schulz did as a son would.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
When I got the HH bug, over 27 years ago, I never recovered. It's sure a bad case... :help:
I'm not sure if I'm recovering from the bug or not. Still check the thread daily. But like was said a few pages back when talking about shooting style -- it's different. And it is frustrating that I feel like I've taken a step backwards at times, but the groups are getting tighter. I promised myself I'd stick it out for a year before I give up though. We'll see.
Straight Shooting is perhaps , alongside Saggittarius by Swinehart , my favourite archery book of the modern era .
John sent me a lovely letter when i purchased a dz copies from him a few years back. I asked him to sign mine but he advised that they were alreday wrapped and had been sent. Two weeks later , a letter arrived signed by John ...
nice huh !
I think that my Half Breed is getting me trained in a way that is paying dividends.
Thank you Spanky and Nate!!
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/th_MOV01403.jpg) (http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/?action=view¤t=MOV01403.mp4)
God bless,Mudd
Nice quiver strap, Mudd!! :biglaugh: Is it trained too???
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
Nice quiver strap, Mudd!! :biglaugh: Is it trained too???
I wanted to be the best "bad" example I could be....lol
Thanks for looking!
God bless,Mudd
Mudd, maybe the experts will post a video to help you out?
:bigsmyl:
That would be a great help for anyone wanting to learn how to properly use their back quiver with their Hill bows.
Great idea Tony!!
Thanks for thinking of it!!
Ok all of you Hill shooters that use back quivers.. the challenge has been made so let's see how it works for you!
The only question is... should they be posted here or on a separate thread???
What do the experts say?
God bless,Mudd
PS: I'd like to personally invite David and "anyone" else that shoots a back quiver to please join in and "Show-Me".
Looking good! Roy.
Enjoyed that Mudd. Back quivers can be a pain at times but I like em. How far were you from target?
QuoteOriginally posted by Blueridge:
Enjoyed that Mudd. Back quivers can be a pain at times but I like em. How far were you from target?
Just 10 yards. I'll work on form... then distance, then accuracy.
Thanks for looking!
God bless,Mudd
Mudd, Thanks for sharing.
Here you go David...
My attempt at taming or training my quiver....lol
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/th_MOV01410.jpg) (http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/?action=view¤t=MOV01410.mp4)
God bless,Mudd
Roy, Tony and all,
Watching Spanky's 4th video where he is drawing arrows from his quiver and shooting, you can see his bow hand or elbow (I use my elbow) go around behind his side to "bump" the quiver up from the bottom of the quiver. This gets the arrows up to the where the hand can get them. No need to pull on the quiver strap to move the quiver. Of course, your quiver and strap need to be adjusted to where it fits and hangs on your back correctly for this to work. I don't have a video camera, so I can not provide any back side views for you.
Ray
I'd love to use my elbow or bow hand to "bump" my quiver.
I keep trying but it hasn't worked for me yet.
I may need some "hands on training" as I seem to missing the "how-to" with the written word and even the video.
Thanks Ray!!
Rest assured I will keep trying.
God bless,Mudd
I bumped my quiver earlier today with my elbow.Then it fell off the wall and spilled the arrows all over the floor!I dont think this elbow bump thing is for me!You guys can do it if you want to but I dont like picking arrows up off the floor.LOL!Just teasing nice vidio's Mudd!
Mudd,
your form is lookin' fine! good hand positions...
I think your quiver problem is because it's too small around...and won't flatten out wide enough to reach. Have you tried grabbing the bottom of the quiver with your bowhand, and pushing up as you reach back with your other hand. This pushes your shoulder blades together and makes it easy to do...
If I knew how to do photobucket, I have a small instructional thing on all this stuff on utube.....
My wife's quiver keeps itself angled and between the shoulder blades. the arrows are just behind and past the ear and very easy to get at, no wrestling or tight strap involved. My own are Schulz Hill and Miller quivers and the arrows tend to be more off the shoulder. I seen lots of times where big bodied guys with small quivers get to chasing them around their backs if the strap is too loose. then if it does slip around a little downward tug at the strap will keep it in position for a few shots. The elbow bump works for smaller people with quivers that can be pushed into position with just a couple of inches of adjustment needed to get the arrows to come up and around. I would say that Mudd, you need a longer quiver if you want it to hang like a Hill quiver and a soft one that flattens out to your back contours. However, you would like the way my wife's quiver works better. I do not remember who made it, it is a fancy thing with snake skins insets, fur lined and embroidered leather. Every time I touch it she says "what are you doing, that's mine."
I'm not exactly sure what you want to be shown in regards to back quivers, but Mike G's seem to work fine.
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/DSCF0110.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/IMG_0400.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_3087.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_0282.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/IMG_0274.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/FirstStumpShootof2010012.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/FirstStumpShootof2010014.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/Clintsdonkeyhunt036.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/NewBackQuiver001-Copy.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/NewBackQuiver005-Copy.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/RuralCollegeStumpShootHunt009.jpg)
(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l164/b_kleinig/Archery%20Practice/StumpShooting010.jpg)
Nice one Ben . and Mudd
Using a back quiver properly depends largely on having the correct quiver . I use my bow arm elbow to bump my quiver around into position where my drawing arm hand is already waiting for an arrow,
Thanks for sharing the photos Ben!
P.S. For any of you who haven't yet spent an afternoon roving and shooting termite mounts in the Outback, YOU ARE MISSING OUT!
One of the most user friendly quivers I have was a very inexpensive one made by John Hale who used to sell them at Cloverdale and other shoots. John's quivers were neither right nor left handed but would work just as well either way--the strap was dead center of the quiver at the top and bottom. Best quiver position I have found yet.....Dave
I thought you guys might enjoy seeing the back quiver I use with the beautiful Sunset Hill Nate made for me. Man, this quiver really holds the arrows well, and the broadheads stay nice and sharp. Of course, it does tend to ride a little more up on my shoulder than on my back. But it's still close enough to count as a back quiver, right?
P.S. Nate, once again----avert your gaze.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Two_Rams_low_res_640.jpg)
:biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Ya'll ain't nuthin but a trouble maker Hinton !
Nate its not his fault ... all that altitude whilst elk hunting has gone to his noggin .....
so maybe ...
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0079.jpg)
Nah...this is better ... plus ya get to carry extra arrows for those long range roving shots ...
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0108.jpg)
If I' not carrying a backpack , i'll have a back quiver on .
Here's a link to Nate's back quiver video for everyone. I was going to try and put one together, but since he offered I'll defer to this excellent video...after all he's the expert! :notworthy:
http://youtu.be/vhLmSbgERt0
Thanks Spanky. Good info, I don't think I can do that with my quiver. Looks like I need another one :)
Thanks for the video, Nate (and for posting it, Spanky)! So simple! I can't wait to try it! :thumbsup:
I know for a fact that I will need a different quiver.
God bless, Mudd
Looks like all I will have to do on mine is move where the bottom strap attaches.
Mudd, the next time I am in Columbia I will bring my Miller and my backquiver and work with you on getting those arrows out by the nock and onto the string. Flint
Good video Nate , thats how I have been getting my arrows out of my back quiver for the last twenty years or so ...
Now , courtesy of Dave Mitchell, I'm getting my arrows out of a Nate Steen back quiver which is perhaps the best of its type I have ever used ...
Give it a couple of weeks and you'll find it a very easy and natural ay to get arrows out and onto your bow .
Nate-
I like the video. I learned how to use a backquiver and grab an arrow from John Schulz's video "Hitt'em Like Howard Hill".
One day I'll post pics of my basket backquivers. In Florida the weather is very hot, so I've been using basket quivers for 20years. I have one that was made in the Bahamas, one from Colombia, and one from Kustom King archery.
Good stuff thanks,
Darren
This is all very cool! For all you who wish to teach the multitudes, this is a perfect time to step up to the plate.
Lots of cool pictures...and thanks for posting them all...each one worth a thousand words...
If that is true, then a video carries the weight of a complete dictionary...and then again some.
I think a short video from many of you will be a tremendous tool, creating a powerful teaching environment with literally hundreds of willing learners who can become competent teachers for the future.
I am one of them for sure!
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Thank you Tony!!
Please share... we don't expect perfection, we just want to see what and how it works for you.
Thanks in advance!
God bless,Mudd
Allright Rik and the two Bens....
now you've done it. I'm hooked for good. Seeing guys withlongbows and backquivers facing down dangerous animals in game-rich country is just too much stimulus for this guy...
I'm starting an Oz hunting fund....How many guys need new longbows? lol lol :help:
Nate, good video! I'd take a longbow!
Nice informative video ,thanks!
Good video, has me reconsidering a back quiver.
just kidding on the longbow orders guys. Not taking any right now....
canopyboy,
keep at it....the Hill style is unique and worth learning to shoot a Hill style longbow well. Those who say it doesn't matter how you shoot them don't shoot them well or very long. That's a fact.
some fellas just fall into shooting them well, while other fellas need to work at it for awhile. Mudd's Hillstyle form is getting real good, he's improving bunches and his groups are getting tight, and it's feeling alot more natural to him now....because it's a natural way of shooting.
don't get discouraged....us Hill fanatics don't want anyone to recover from the Hill virus....lol
Thanks Nate.
Like I said, I'm giving myself a whole year. Things keep getting better, but it is like learning to shoot again in some ways. And of course like anything else, some days are worse than others and then I follow it up with some great groups or a single shot that felt great and deadcentered the target point.
But the thread has helped, both from an encouragement standpoint (although it also has its discouraging posts) and for pointers. Thanks to all.
-Dave
Ya had me excited there for a minute Nate ...
Ok now that we have the back quiver think kinda sorted, lets talk about shooting glove. Currently I am using a 3 rivers Dura Glove and was wondering if there would be an advantage to the hill style glove. I have never used one but am interested. I however am worried about not being able to feel the string but would they give a smoother release?
ChrisM....I have tried over and over to like a glove, but I simply cannot manage to do it! I anchor with my index finger on a canine tooth--with a glove all I feel is a big old wad of leather in the corner of my mouth. I've tried just about all of them and always end up selling them at a loss. :( I always wonder why I just don't give it up and stay with the tabs that work so well for me. You know, "If it ain't broke don't fix it" :readit: I think I've finally decided to do that.
I'm about to go back and read this whole thread. My first Hill, a Big 5, will be here next week!
Pete
David I have tried about three tabs and even gave one a month and I just can't use one worth a dang mine usually ended up violently disposed of out of discust.
Peter good for you, you will be shooting more arrows than you ever have! Good luck with it
I prefer a glove over a tab. I seem to have more control/feeling and tabs seem noisy to me.
Gloves?
Tabs?
None for me thanks. I like my string triple served so I can shoot bare fingered. Mucho better for hunting where speed is sometimes of the essence. . .
Rik, Triple serving? Does that mean you serve up, then back down, then back up with 1 length of serving? Or do you serve normally, then start again with a new piece of serving, etc.? just curious as to the correct way. Thanks.
Gerald
QuoteOriginally posted by GRS:
Rik, Triple serving? Does that mean you serve up, then back down, then back up with 1 length of serving? Or do you serve normally, then start again with a new piece of serving, etc.? just curious as to the correct way. Thanks.
Gerald
Rik,
Interesting...I ditto that question.
My first thought is the added weight to the string could impede performance...but maybe it is not significant. This is a new one for me.
How do your fingers feel after shooting a couple hundred arrows? I can see the benefit in a hunting situation tho...
Been a tab shooter since the late 60s...tried a klunky/fat HH glove and, like Dave mentioned, I could feel nothing but three huge, numb fingers in my face....lol
I will be ordering an American Leathers Big Shot that Spanky recommended. AND....(ha) I will work with it diligently until I can make it work.....or, again, like Dave says, I can always go back to the tab because it ain't broke.
I like tabs better than gloves for two reasons. First is I'm sweat-hog. I usually only get a year out of leather gloves.
Secondly I get a better feel of my anchor point.
I make my own tabs out of Cordovan leather(lose 'em-never wear them out). I don't like regular cowhide or Latigo leather tabs. The only gloves I liked were ones that I cut the end of the glove anchor finger off so I could feel my anchor point.
Tried the triple serving but I'm not tough like Rik!
Different strokes ---- !
I have a HH glove and periodically will give it more chances but always end up going back to my cordovan tabs.
I keep two tabs in my pockets at all times and one in my wallet.
I also like to feel my anchor.
God bless,Mudd
I started shooting with a Super Glove and thought it was great. Mike Fedora convinced me to give a plain cordovan tab an honest try... I did and now I can't go back. I also like feeling that anchor tooth. Every now and then I'll try a few shots with the glove... no way!
I too use the tab. I shot with a glove as a teenager and thought tabs were only for target shooters. Once I tried a tab I liked the feel of it so much that every time I have tried to go back to a glove in no time I ditch the glove and am back using the tab.
I handed my grandson a tab recently as he was shooting his recurve. I had started him with a glove as a younger kid (he's 18 next week)....he took a couple of shots and just looked at me and said, "Why have I not heard of these before?" ;)
If you take an open ended glove, like a HH, you can trim the leather back on the ends of the finger stalls so that the tips of your fingers are just barely exposed. This little mod allows you to feel that tooth very well, and I believe Howard did the same thing with his gloves...he anchored on a tooth also.
I've tried tabs and we don't see eye to eye LOL! I really can't stand the feel of that thing swinging on my hand while hunting either! I'm currently using the "Crossover Big Shot" and love it!
Any of you guys looking for a Sunset Hill quiver, I just listed one that is in new condition in the classifieds.
I've tried the Howard Hill glove off and on for years, with and without the inserts. I actually still have two at the moment. The problem that I have with the glove is that my draw is shorter, almost an inch shorter. With a cordovan tab, I get a deeper hook and a longer draw. I was thinking about trying one of those "Big Shot" gloves like Ken recommeneded. But for now the tab is best.
Darren
I'm so glad to see so many using a tab. I was feeling like the uncool kid using a cordovan tab with a Hill.
I sometimes use a tab , sometimes a glove but like Rik, I hunt bare fingered most of the time. Have so for the past 15 years .
Tried a tab a few years ago but felt like I was always going to have it fly away with the string - too floppy for me. I had started with a Big Shot and continued shooting with them. I feel confident with that glove. Recently received a Big Shot Crossover glove and wow, my release is smoother. Just like Nate and Spanky have posted.
Went out shooting with Nate this evening. Old soccer ball in a big field of grass and weeds, for moving target practice. Had a blast and loved that glove.
I have a back up tab that I made out of very thick leather and a cant pinch that I added leather to so it would not hurt my fingers. Most tabs are too hard on the fingers for me, the anticipation of pain never does my shooting any favors. I use Hill and mostly Big Shot gloves, unless I am playing around with a lighter pulling or short recurve bow.
Nate,
P L E A S E
don't make a n y jokes with n o t taking orders. I have to less longbows for being a happy guy!
My Tabs are two holers(3under type) there's no flopping around with this config'. You can make two holers with split finger tabs.
Rik, Thread drifted to tab vs. glove conversation. Please refer to question for you on previous page re: serving. Thanks
Gerald
I really like the idea of trimming a Hill style glove Think I will get one and try it.
QuoteOriginally posted by GRS:
Rik, Thread drifted to tab vs. glove conversation. Please refer to question for you on previous page re: serving. Thanks
Gerald
Hey Gerald...just shoot him a PM.
I'm sure he won't mind..
I am not sure this picture will show up well enough to see the serving clearly, but I will include it anyway and try to explain how I triple serve a string.
I first serve the string normally. I use 80-pound SUFIX Performance braided fishing line rather than serving material because it is stronger, slicker on the fingers, and takes abrasion much better.
Then I place an arrow on the string and start a second layer of string immediately below where the nock fits on the string. I wrap that layer maybe a half inch longer than layer one so the end smooths out nicely.
Then I serve the same area a third time, also taking this layer about a half inch below where layer two ends so the end smooths out nicely.
That's it. Pretty simple. The are where the nock fits on the string has one layer of serving, the area where my fingers contact the string has three layers of serving.
As you can see, I shoot three fingers under (although I place the arrow in the same position as someone who shoots with one finger over the arrow----if they nock with the middle finger on the eye tooth).
If you shoot with one finger over, you would also need to serve two more layers above the nock.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/triple_served_string.jpg)
Rik, Thanks for the detailed explanation and the pics.
Gerald
Has anyone chronoed their new Hills with cedar shafts recently?
It's against the law to chrono a Hill. :readit: :D
Now's about time to report this:
A buddy of mine was shooting his brand new 68# Black Swamp and decided to shoot my Half Breed (68# at his draw) with the same arrows. I think he wanted to poke fun at my slow Hill. He kept shooting and shooting until he announced, somewhat in a disappointed tone, "this Hill is as fast as my Treadway". No way, I said. The others on the line thought the Hill was as fast also. Who'd have thought.
Mine is shooting right with my RD bows I was very very surprised..
I think I'm starting to get the hang of this.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/th_MOV01421.jpg) (http://s218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Training%20photos/?action=view¤t=MOV01421.mp4)
God bless,Mudd
Yes you are, Mudd.
I have been hearing that the newer middle weight Hills are shooting faster than the ones from 20 years ago. There is nothing wrong with them shooting a quicker arrow than some have come to expect.
Pavan, some of the new ones have one or more carbon laminations that can increase speeds. However, the Half Breed of mine, mentioned above, is a decade old and is three lams of bamboo and two of Yew.
With the speed that I am getting and the lack of sound I may have to figure out how to shoot a 68" out of a tree stand. ;)
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
It's against the law to chrono a Hill. :readit: :D
:thumbsup:
I had one made in 1991, it shot cedars 185 at my 26.5" draw. 75#, and 68" long too.
Roy,
WAY,WAY, bettah!! :clapper: :jumper: :jumper:
So many improvements in just a few days.
I'll try to catch you for a chat...
Mudd-
Your form looks real good!
Thanks for sharing,
Darren
way good Mudd! :clapper: That quiver should work well for you...
I like to use a stiffer glove, HH style or the new Crossover Bigshot. I don't like my fingers to curl around the string very much, it affects my anchor feel. I've tried all sorts of tabs over the years, but gave them up. I believe that the glove gives me a better reload time getting the arrow out of the quiver as well. The tab gives my fingers one more thing to fumble when I'm grabbing an arrow by the nock. I like to be able to reload fast and the glove lets me do that....
The bug got me, I ordered a HH Robin Hood double shelf 45 @ 28. I want to learn to shoot left handed and couldnt resist with all this talk of Hill bows.
Howard Hill's Longbow Army gains another eager recruit.
Probably enough of us now to take over at least half of France.
any more virally infected Hill shooters? I fear that there are some who were infected by the Hill bug that recovered. We haven't heard from some of them for quite awhile now....wonder how many used bows will be on the market....
Nate ,
I'm just hoping they'll be lefties !!!
The Hill bug can not be cured in my case, most of my other bows will be hitting the classifieds soon. This is a great bug to have though!
My hills are going nowhere. I recently purchased two and have to desire to get more.
I just acquired my first Wesley Special in a string follow profile. It shoots good.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
Nate ,
I'm just hoping they'll be lefties !!!
x2 :bigsmyl:
I'll be looking for some used ones if they come up. Been shooting mine for a couple of weeks and love it. I'm finnally fletching up a new set of woodies and will tune them tommorrow.
HH bug didn't leave me. I'm getting rid of everything I've got (except for one BW LAG) bought 3 since Dec. Love em!!
I am now w/o a recurve!! I have had a recurve since I was 10! FEELS GOOD!!!
I haven't received my Big 5 yet, and I'm already trying to figure out a plan for a Redman :D
I might have this bad....
Pete
Pete, got my Redman about a week or so ago. It is the sweetest shooting /drawing of the three I have. Like em all but that Redman is special.
I'm thinking about a Redman or Haldbreed myself... Oh the agony! I can't see how it could shoot any better than my current Hills... But a contrasting ebony riser and a few inlays... Such mental torment!
The Redman I have has a little string follow built in it and smooth is.... well I can't tell you how creamy it is...lol
God bless,Mudd
Hey, Ben and sou-pawbowshooter, don't forget, some of the rest of us will be watching for those lefty bows to start showing up as well. Heck, we can't get Nate to take any orders now!
Chris,
If you want to hunt with a HH in a tree, you need to consider the Tree Saddle. Since there is no platform, hand rails, or arm rest you have the clearance to shoot whatever length of bow you like. I had my first HH bowkill last year using my Tree Saddle.
Does anyone have pictures of a crocodile hill? Mudd's Osage royal has planted a seed in my brain that I can't seem to shake :biglaugh: Perhaps my bug needs a little more medicine courtesy of Mr. Ekin!
Wade I'd bet it would be awesome with Osage.
There's something about hedge that just tweaks my eyes.
God bless,Mudd
I have been thinking I need a yew/honey locus bow. I think I will wait till Craig is not so busy with you guys, it may take a little calculating to come up with the faster taper and leaner limb design with a reverse handle that I want.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
I have been thinking I need a yew/honey locus bow. I think I will wait till Craig is not so busy with you guys, it may take a little calculating to come up with the faster taper and leaner limb design with a reverse handle that I want.
Now that sounds like a sweet combination!!
Wow, been away a little and the thread is still steaming right along! Amazing!
With a 45# HH can Craig cut it to center??
I cut a 37 pound at 26 inch Cheetah to 1/8" off center so it would have a better range for stiffer arrows. It has been a number of years and the bow is still going strong. I have two heavier Hills that are also cut to 1/8" from center with no problems, again I did it to allow for stiffer heavier arrows.
Got my hill tuned pretty good and its shooting great. I have noticed that a consitant anchor is very important. I needed to get one anyhow.
I havent received my Robin hood 70 inch 50 @ 28(I draw 29.5)from craig yet. What do you think it will feel like from shooting my 49@ 28 64" Toelke Whip?
Well my transition what I noticed was a firmer feel upon release. Not a shock but a feeling of power that makes it easier to continue pushing against it. The lack of sound takes alittle to get used to for me 'cause my brain keep thinking something was missing from the shot. I will tell you that when the first arrow comes out spinning perfectly with a blurr of feathers you will be hooked.
It's here!!!
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/JLW83/hill1-1.jpg)
Cheetah 65#@27 66" long
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/JLW83/hill2-1.jpg)
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/JLW83/hill4-1.jpg)
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/JLW83/hill5-1.jpg)
(http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/z347/JLW83/hill7-1.jpg)
Man, that's some figured juniper if I ever saw it. Striking! :thumbsup:
Wow that is beautiful!!!! I knew the cheetas were nice but that one is nice.
Super lookin Cheetah...congrats!
Good looking Cheetah, Congrats.
Awesome looking Cheetah!
Congratulations!!
Thank you for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
@ Jesse ... Nice mate !That Juniper , as Dave said is beautiful . what specs is it ?
@ MT ... having just orederd a Toelke Whip I am asking the same question but in reverse ! The main difference you'll notice is that girls will find you more attractive and that everyone will want to be your friend ... lol
The difference will be more 'bump' at the shot and if a straight grip was ordered , you'll notice a that it wil take a bit more notice of how you grip the bow to be consistent ... but it won't take long and if like so many others on this thread you stick with it , you'll find it about the most forgiving and accurate bow inyour rack.
absolutely gorgeous!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Dude that cheetah is awesome!!! Congrats Darren
absolutely gorgeous!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Dude that cheetah is awesome!!! Congrats Darren
Thanks All! Fletching up a dozen new cedars on friday, (minus a couple for bareshafting)
@Ben- Its 66" long, 65#@27"
For the new arrows I used minwax wipe-on poly after reading Rob's posts. Wow that stuff is awesome! No smell, no dripping, no problem.
Nice Cheetah . Hope you enjoy. Congrats
Jesse ... I want pics of your Hill bow and a Moose !
If I am lucky enough to get a draw again I'll do my best!
Jesse,Congrats on the Cheetah,I got mine just a while ago and love it same length as yours except 56# and yew cores instead of Bamboo.You will be happy.BC Moose look out!LOL
One of the most beautiful Hills I've ever seen! So many choices...
Beautiful, wish I never sold my cheetah, my new ruffed grouse should be done soooon!
That is the single most beautiful Howard Hill bow I have seen. Plus, there is no need for spray paint, it's perfectly camouflaged.
My wallet is now burning a serious hole in my pocket. Quick-----where's that fire extinguisher?
Very nice bow!
Ben, as far as the Whip goes ....its extremly quiet and totally dead. really enjoy shooting it, Dan is a tremendous boyer. I think you will really like your whip. what did you order your in? wood/length/weight?
I came home today and this was waiting for me in the front door!
70inch 52#@29.5 Robin Hood Double shelf #39 of 50. I set the brace height to 6.5 inches per the manual and am getting ready to serve up the nock point and go test shoot. Really a beautiful bow...and Craig was really fast on this order!
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/1.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/2.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/3.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/4.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/5.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/6.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/7.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/8.jpg)
the rest of the pics, sorry a little blurry on some.
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/9.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/10.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/11.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Bow/12.jpg)
That Robin Hood is a great looking bow. Can you shoot both ways now? Congrats on your new Hill.
Pretty bow!!
But then I am more than a little biased...lol
Thanks for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
I pulled it back to full draw a few times left handed in the house but its too dark to shoot now, so I will have to wait until tomorrow!
I thought I was making a mistake with the double shelf on the asthetics side but you really dont notice the double shelf...and it will be nice trying to shoot both ways...Im left eye dominant and right handed so well seee how that works shooting left....as if I didnt have enough challenges shooting right!!!!
Happy Easter to all of you!
Patrick
Nice bow!
If you haven't been to his web page lately, Craig has a lot of stuff in stock right now.
Craig has a GREAT selection for RH shooters but for those of us on the others side of the shelf - Rats... nada, except for a 30# model. Oh well, if all else fails I can always order one!
Rick
beaudatiuos!!!
man, after all that's been going on i needed to revisit this thread for a breath of fresh hill air, and get my head unstuck from my butt. :D
Hang in there Rob! We all thank you for everything you do for this site :thumbsup: ! How's your hinged Hill coming?
Rob thank you for all you have done and continue to do for this site. I have found that this thread has helped me relax after some tough days.
thanx guys.
i've got the bow and all the parts for adding the connexion hinge to the tembo bow blank, just need the time and space to do it right, hopefully before the summer ....
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
man, after all that's been going on i needed to revisit this thread for a breath of fresh hill air, and get my head unstuck from my butt. :D
LOL Rob.... :biglaugh:
This thread is a nice quiet place full of happy. Can't wait to watch "revenge of the Hinge" with you...when you get time.
Thanks from me too Rob. Fairly new here but appreciate the hard work and insight you provided , kick back awhile.
Ditto from me, Rob, still saving for that Cheetah, with your handle style.
Happy Easter Brothers !!! Shot the Big Five a couple of times this morning . Sat outside a bit and listened and watched the Redbirds, BlueJays and Squirrels. Its a Blessing to be alive.RC
Rob Ol' Pal, sounds like ymdv
(your mileage did vary) :bigsmyl:
Glad your here to get back to all smiles again.
Rick
Thank you Brother RC!
And a blessed Easter to you, yours, and ALL of Trad Gang!
Praise the Lord!
God bless, David Camp
QuoteOriginally posted by RC:
Happy Easter Brothers !!! Shot the Big Five a couple of times this morning . Sat outside a bit and listened and watched the Redbirds, BlueJays and Squirrels. Its a Blessing to be alive.RC
Back at ya RC!
He is risen indeed!
Happy Easter my Hill brothers! As Tony has mentioned previous, we serve a risen Saviour! Did anyone else besides RC get out to fling a few today?
its raining in southern Co. but I targeted a few today.
QuoteOriginally posted by Cookus:
Happy Easter my Hill brothers! As Tony has mentioned previous, we serve a risen Saviour! Did anyone else besides RC get out to fling a few today?
LOL....in my dreams....!
counting the days till I can set foot on American soil...first order of business: I'll get TOXO
I shot a few at my back yard targets, windy and pending rain in So. Idaho today.
David Mitchell has a nice article on back quivers in the Trad. Bowhunter current issue. For those of us who use them, it was a confirmation of why. They are not the only way to carry arrows but I am finding that I use mine exclusively and the side quiver gets left home. It just goes well with my Sunset Hill bow, anyway. :archer:
Wish I could read that Ray!
Is there an online version?
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Van Dort:
Wish I could read that Ray!
Is there an online version?
yes and you can test out a sample online issue (which doesn't seem to work at all for me via linux mint & firefox).
Tony,
There is if you pay for the online subscription. It costs less than a mailed magazine subscription and can be read no matter where you are if you have internet access. It can be obtained through the Traditional Bowhunter website.
Looks like Rob beat me to the finish line while I was typing.
Yep got to shoot some today but with the gail force winds we have had for three weeks I am still not sure if my arrows are tuned just right yet. But fun to shoot anyhow.
Thanks Rob & Ray!
Crap...I use FireFox...I'll try anyway
OK where do I get the book that tells how howard shot. I think its called hitin em like howard or something like that!!
Got out today and flung a few from my Badger. That was until it started raining after about five minutes of shooting. But it was all good.
Got to shoot about 30 arrows today out of my Dual Shelf Robin Hood. It was all good.
matt
Going down to my basement to fling a few right now. A perfect way to end Easter Sunday! God bless all of you!
Chris M,
I've dealt with the winds myself here as of late... I'm waiting for a fairly calm day to shoot broadheads myself! Preliminary results show the (favorite Hill) Wesley likes a 200 grain Wensel Wooodsman. My shooting has been sporadic lately, but my youngest daughter was born born April 11, so... All is well boys! May God God bless you all on this day!
Today I got to shoot my Big Five and my new Hill style that I made. I plan on posting pictures soon after I finish the clear coat. It is the first glass laminated bow that I have made.
I got to actually feel like Robin Hood today. I met my friend John at the range and we did some practicing on the flat range. I'm working on a new release (two finger split), trying to get some semblance of acceptable consistent form back. John was just practicing. He was shooting his Martin Dreamcatcher. We shot for awhile, then decided to go around the course, but on the way back from the last arrow retrieval, decided on one more practice round would be good. John, who had been working at 30 yards drew back on the 40 yard target and put one in the X ring of the center bull of a five bull burlap target... 40 yds, first shot of the round! And the last :) , he's not dumb! Being a no good so and so, I didn't congratulate him but stepped up with my 27# Bamboozle and said, "Guess I'll just have to split your arrow. Now I had been practicing form at 10 and 20 yards, so I just figured I'd be giving us a laugh. Drew back, and Bamboozle put the arrow into the same X ring, almost touching John's arrow but slightly closer to center! Talk about two dumbfounded archers, we were it! John had his cell phone and took a pic, which he is supposed to email me.
Awesome, Captain! Can't wait to see the picture!
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Van Dort:
This thread is a nice quiet place full of happy.
:archer: Yes it is...
Here are pix of those two 40 yard shots yesterday. Thought I sent them once but I must have hit the wrong button. John's shot with the white feathers was first, then mine, after commenting that I guessed I was just going to have to split his arrow. I didn't... quite... but man, those are shots we won't forget!
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/40ydshots1.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/40ydshots2.jpg)
Great shooting, Dick and John. Dick, throughout life, it is always good to be awed now and again. :thumbsup: I am glad that you two got out and got feathers in the wind!
Ray
Ok, I dont know if this is the right spot to post but I need all of the HH guys help. Im shooting my new HH robin Hood, 70 inch 52# @ my draw of 29.5"..
-shooting a cordovon Supertab, 2under 1 over standard.
-Beman MFX 500 @31 inches with the 75 grain insert and a 125 field tip.total weight about 530 grains. 3@5" feathers LW
Tuning Bare shaft exactly same other than no feathers.
My issue is no matter where I set the nock point I get a nock high bare shaft flight...its very noticeable!!! I tried the nock from 3/4 " high to 1/4" LOW from 90 degrees and all in between. I am using a bow square to set. No matter what I do with the nock point the bare shaft is always flying tail 6-7 inches high maybe more.
the nocks are not to tight on the string.
Iv'e tried my grip,Low med high.
Ive tried tip weight(100 grains to 145 grains)but Im not getting any left or right(spine)at all. pure vertical
Ive tried tweaking my release, deep hooks , not so deep hooks.
I cant figure it out.
Flight with feathers is ok but I can see the arrow correcting for the high nock flight right away, and it tends to group low because of this.
any Ideas??
brace is set to 6.5 per the manual and it says plus or minus 1/8th so Im spot on there
Help please!
Thanks guys
Patrick
Patrick,
I'd start with the grip first, low wrist, peak of grip into the lifeline of the hand, squeezing a little harder with the bottom fingers. Just like you would grip a pistol... From there I always go to braceheight....starting around 5 3/4 and go up 1/8" at a time. Some of these Hill bows like 6 1/2 - 7".
If you've tried all those different nocking points and the arrows are still kicking, it's almost a sure sign that the limbs aren't recoiling at the same timing....your bow limb timing is off. Both limbs must return to braceheight at the same time. Because your bottom limb is shorter than the top limb, it must be bent further to compensate, so it can return in the same timing as the top limb. Grip pressure is critical with a low wrist to accomplish this. Line up the belly of the grip with the Y between your thumb and first finger...the back of the bow should line up with the finger pads between your first and second knuckles...now squeeze your fingers with pressure not on the fingertips, but on those finger pads (like you do when you shake someone's hand). This seats the bow grip into the hand, giving you control and helping the bottom limb to bend correctly. Now try shooting with the bottom of the nock about 1/4" over 90 degrees....
On one of the dvds i have of Howard Hill, playing it in super slow motion and then stopping right as Hill releases, the arrow can be seen bending into the bow, not away, then bending around the bow. If an arrow is too stiff and the bow is shot canted, could the arrow bend some into the bow and then not recover around the bow as in the Hill video, the result being a radical tail high kick?
"Line up the belly of the grip with the Y between your thumb and first finger...the back of the bow should line up with the finger pads between your first and second knuckles...now squeeze your fingers with pressure not on the fingertips, but on those finger pads (like you do when you shake someone's hand). This seats the bow grip into the hand, giving you control and helping the bottom limb to bend correctly"
Imm trying to visualize this proper straight grip!!
Patrick
Patrick,
Another thought worth considering... a few years back I developed a different problem but I am thinking it could be relative to your issue and/or may be used in conjunction with the other suggestions. When shooting my Hills my arrows started kicking noticeably upon release. I eventually determined I wasn't using proper back tension and once I started focusing on back tension the problem immediately went away. I believe in my case I was not drawing straight back and was putting uneven pressure on the string.
Hope this is of some use.
patrick,
pm sent
Thanks guys for your help, it is truely appreciated and I will try with your help to fix it....any other straight grip shooters out there????
thanks again guys!
Patrick
I will be signing off and heading for the cabin, no internet. I expect this thread to still be running when I get back before deer season opener. Take care guys and keep your strings waxed.
you using a double nock on the string ?????????........sounds like arrow nock may be a tad loose,sliding down string at the shot and bouncing off the shelf...........YMMV
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
I will be signing off and heading for the cabin, no internet. I expect this thread to still be running when I get back before deer season opener. Take care guys and keep your strings waxed.
Good Luck Paven!
be careful and have fun!
QuoteOriginally posted by hvyhitter:
you using a double nock on the string ?????????........sounds like arrow nock may be a tad loose,sliding down string at the shot and bouncing off the shelf...........YMMV
I bet that is the issue.....
If you are following Sunset Hill's instruction regarding grip and still having problems, I would also agree with the loose nock theory. A nock that is too loose can do 2 things - it can slide down the string as mentioned above, and it can also cause you to subconsiously grip the nock with your string fingers as you shoot (to prevent it from slipping out and creating a dry-fire)which puts pressure on the nock at the shot, causing bad arrow flight. Much has been said about the evils of too tight a nock fit, but I have had more problems with nocks that fit too loosely.
I've shot hundreds of arrows on the string my new Redman is wearing, and they clip-on snug but not too tight. It has worked fine. Then just yesterday, with a newish arrow, I made a brilliant shot on a termite mound. Everything looked and felt good, but upon impact, I heard a funny little sound. I inspected the arrow, and found the two nock fingers had broken off, never to be found in the grass. So, was it a once-off weakness in that nock, or is my string fit too tight afterall?
While on the subject of tight nocks, let me regale you with my most spectacular screw up of all time in the field.
'Twas long, long ago, shortly after the end of the dark ages. The Age of Enlightenment had dawned upon me, and I had given up shooting with a clumsy tab and was now shooting like Robin Hood himself, bare fingered.
I had triple-served a string where my fingers contacted it, and had double-served the string where the nock fit. I shot the same arrow all summer long on this string, and was loving everything about being a bare-fingered shooter.
Then. . . elk season loomed on the horizon like a great screaming stag on the skyline. 'Twas time to hunt the mighty beast. I loaded up the pack animals (llamas), scrounged up a wench (uh, my wife Tracy) to accompany me for a few weeks in the dark forest, and off we went.
Leaving the well-hidden tent and small camp long before dawn, we climbed a craggy mountain face in the dark and Lo. . . the mighty beast answered, and charged.
This was no common beast, he was a prime stag in all his glory, and he was coming to fight. In less than five seconds I had pushed the wench back out of the way to keep her behind me and safe (her arrow was nocked, but it was my time to shoot), and the beast was upon us.
I drew the mighty bow fully to my cheek and let the arrow fly. "twas a perfect shot. . .no. . WAIT A MINUTE. . . what just happened? NOOOOOOOOO!
Alas, the triple-served string had served me well all summer, but the double-served area under the nock proved too thick for the new arrows which had brand new nocks. The string split the nock, which made the arrow corskscrew 15 yards and strike the mighty beast sideways. He ran away, back to the thick, dark canyon from whence he came, but I had safely protected the wench from danger (actually, she would have killed the beast handily with her arrow, but that's a tale for another time.)
I put a second "new" arrow on the string and shot. Same result, the nock split and the arrow flew every which way but straight. A third arrow did the same. I was crushed. I was devastated. I was a buffoon in archer's clothing.
And that, my friends, is the end of the sad, sorrowful tale of a lad who learned a painful lesson about only single-serving strings where they contact the nock—but still saved a wench from danger.
Well told noble Rik!
:archer:
Now that must have been heart breaking. I had a nock too loose when I went back to woodies from carbons without reserving and dry fired a bow. Talk about a whelp on a arm (I shoot recurves without an arm guard). I now test every arrow the first time I shoot it to make sure it is firm but will come off with a sharf rap.
imho, any nock that stays stuck to a center serving for any length of time, and for any reason, is far too tight and will cause consistency/accuracy grief sooner or later.
i tailor the center serving to the arrow nock and i will sometimes use two strings for each of my bows - one served for 11/32" woodie nocks and one served for carbon nocks. the throats of each nock are loose but don't "float" on the serving.
with my typical 8 strand dyneema02 strings and carbon arrows, i use .019" halo center serving (TOUGH spectra). it's a perfect fit. i use .024" halo for serious woodie flinging.
i use one cya soaked string fiber serving nocking point above the arrow nock. the pressure from my middle finger's split finger grip keeps the arrow true on both the string and during release. (split finger archers should have the majority of the holding weight on middle finger - if not, yer in trouble!)
i make my tabs from thin 4oz latigo leather and i can feel every nuance of the string during the draw and hold. i want to really feel the string and can never ever get used to thick gloves or tabs.
according the last robin hood flick, mr. hood used thin leather (or animal intestine?) "rings" on his first and middle fingers, for his flemish string grip.
to each their own, it's all good ... maybe! :D
Raining out tonight , cnat shoot, watched all the VIDs from Sunset Hill and will try the grip asap. if that doesnt work I will go double nock, the nock do fit well right now so maybe they are sliding just a bit but hard to tell.
More updates as soon as I shoot.
Thanks to all the hard working bros out there, and especially Nate!
Ok , it quit raining, i took advantage of a situation...I had 3 arrows from a friend , they were 30 Inch Beman MFX classic 600, (Ive been shooting 500's with an arrow weight of 536 grains with 145's field tips) and the 600's were 475 grains with 145 grain tips.. same everything other than 1 inch less and .600 spine.
I set up using my 500 arrows and tried the low grip i read about and watched the videos from Sunset Hill... No change from my HH on the arrow flight , i worked on back tension and really feeling the grip pressure in the lowest portion of the hand and the firm grip with the middle portion of the lower 3 fingers.
Nothing, shafts still kicking high, I tried no bow "cant" no change. still nock high flight.
Then i pulled out the dental floss waxed and got to the lower nock set. tied it up and made sure no pinch the shot again...and again. really concentrating on form...great groups just low and slightly left with nock high flight.
Then I grabbed the 600 spine Bemans and shot with the same concentration and grip. Very first thing I noticed... no vertical kick off the shelf!!
much improved arrow flight. great groups when I did my part and the hand shock goes to zip when the grip is correct and the shot feels "right"
Im led to believe that with my 29.5 inch draw and my 52 lb at that draw length ...the 500 must be overspined and im slapping te shelf a bit wht the tail of the arrow...amazing to hear the difference in the sound..the 600's are really quiet leaving the bow where the 500 you can actually hear the slight impact on release.
I would not have guessed that or known it if I didnt check the 600's out.
Im happy but also SAD..
Ive got a bunch of money tied up into 2 dozen 31 inch Beman MFX 500's.
16 are still brand new!
my question is do you think I can add more point weight to he 500's to make them flex that bit more? Im running 145 grains and I was thinking about 200's do you think that might be TOO much FOC? thats 275 grains up front with the 75 grain HIT insert in there.
Should I sell all the 500's and just switch over to 600's?
I just like a heavy arrow and 475 doesnt seem heavy enough...
Thanks for reading all the way through if you got this far!
look forward to hearing your comments (I have not bare shafted the 600's as i dont have a bare 600 to use.)
Just happy I made some progress.
After I shot the 600's I switched back and forth. 500 to 600 each shot...600's fly nice and straight...500's kick like a mule vertically!
Patrick
QuoteAfter I shot the 600's I switched back and forth. 500 to 600 each shot...600's fly nice and straight...500's kick like a mule vertically!
happy or sad, there's yer answer. we're all "experiments of one" and whatever works best will be best. amen, brother. ;)
fwiw, i shoot well flying 29.5" arrows out of a 55# 'hawk - beman ics 500's and gt hunter 400's - 550 to 620 grains.
everything about you, yer bow and yer arrows are part of the shooting formula. whatever works well for you consistently is the way to go and don't look back ........
mt longbow,
good news to hear. each bow has it's slight nuances in what arrows it likes. even wood arrows need to be tuned with point weight to get them right on due to the 5#spine ranges of most dozens...
another thing guys will fight with a straight-end longbow....fletching that is too large. We've all heard about how wonderful high-back fletch is... but too tall a feather will kick slightly off the shelf or window.
it's wonderful to hear you state that when you gripped the bow right, the handshock went to 'zip'....so much for the theory that these bows kick so much that your arm falls off... :biglaugh:
Nate,
what size for fletching is correct? It depends on bow weight? What is the rule of thumb? I watched on you tube only one video from you the number 3: there are the numer 1 and 2 too? Please let me know.
P.S. That's no true you don't accept any more orders, do you? How many years do I wait for owning one bow made by you? Forgive me for my English.
Marco.
QuoteOriginally posted by San Paolo:
Nate,
what size for fletching is correct? It depends on bow weight? What is the rule of thumb? I watched on you tube only one video from you the number 3: there are the numer 1 and 2 too? Please let me know.
P.S. That's no true you don't accept any more orders, do you? How many years do I wait for owning one bow made by you? Forgive me for my English.
Marco.
i know yer query is for nate, but i just gotta jump in here ...
i see too many posts in this and other threads where guys think there is some magic formula, some special secret handshake knowledge for everything from shooting form to tackle. the real truth is, there is no "magic" anything, there are very few "rules", and, with a few decent "cornerstone guidelines" to light the way, most of what you need to do with regards to "form" and "gear" is through self evaluation.
specific to your fletching question, marco - there is no "correct size" fletching for length, height, shape, offset, helical or number of fletches. and the fletching has nothing to do with a typical hunting stick bow's holding weight. what *might* matter is that tall fletches, particularly with a 3-fletch or 90x90 4-fletch, *might* react differently for you on release, with regards to the bow's "centershot", where the shaft sits on the bow, the arrow's spine and ability to recover, how you shoot the bow, and probably other considerations such as the degree of nock tightness, or lack thereof, on the center serving. the common base line for most hunting arrow fletching is a 5.25" 3-fletch shield, parabolic or banana cut feather that's no more than 5/8" at the high point. as with ALL our tackle, there is NO SUBSTITUTE for experimentation and the journey towards consistent accuracy is part of the trad bowhunting game. "ymmv" does NOT apply here! ;)
MT longbow, I would order a variety of points, right up to 250g and try them. You should be able to get the 500's to fly good. I used to shoot full length MFX 400 out my NM Classic 57@30" with 300 up front, that was an awesome setup, abot 620g arrow i think.
Eric
QuoteOriginally posted by San Paolo:
Nate,
what size for fletching is correct? It depends on bow weight? What is the rule of thumb? I watched on you tube only one video from you the number 3: there are the numer 1 and 2 too? Please let me know.
P.S. That's no true you don't accept any more orders, do you? How many years do I wait for owning one bow made by you? Forgive me for my English.
Marco.
Marco,
more then 19mm are too much for me and my bows. F O R M E 17mm height works best.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
the real truth is, there is no "magic" anything, there are very few "rules", and, with a few decent "cornerstone guidelines" to light the way, most of what you need to do with regards to "form" and "gear" is through self evaluation.
as with ALL our tackle, there is NO SUBSTITUTE for experimentation and the journey towards consistent accuracy is part of the trad bowhunting game. "ymmv" does NOT apply here! ;)
Well said Rob ... and that is why this "game" is such a blast! Try this and that, bows, arrow shaft material, glove or tab, whichever quiver and on it goes. It is a journey and when taken in the right frame of mind, leads to the "aaaahhhh" moments, which are delightful when you find what fits you and your methods. For me, I love this Hill / Schulz style bow and back quiver. Nostalgia, some; practicality, yup for where I hunt; good times with friends - always!
Start with basics and general guidelines but be free to experiment. Failures are only permanent when we don't learn from them.
The rule for fletching height is whatever works for you....I like about 5/8" max height on fletch...some guys like 1/2", Rik shoots little 4" long 3-fletch....whatever works. However, there is a mantra that big, tall fletch always gives better arrow flight and that's not always true....that's what I was saying.
QuoteStart with basics and general guidelines but be free to experiment. Failures are only permanent when we don't learn from them. [/QB]
VERY well said, ray!
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
... However, there is a mantra that big, tall fletch always gives better arrow flight and that's not always true....that's what I was saying.
i agree 101% - bigger is not always better.
Nate,
And your answers for videos / bow order?
Marco
Marco,
I've been behind in bowmaking for about 7 years, backlogued sometimes as much as 2 years at a time. I'm not taking orders until I get completely caught up and take a bowmaking sabbatical. It's turned from a hobby into work... :) I don't know why you didn't get the short clips from utube, they're there....
Nate,
Pelasse gite the correct three links for videos; when will you take new orders?
Marco
I don't have a time in mind for the bowmaking....
The bug bit me again with a 68 inch 46@28 Robin Hood.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1303939488.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1303939488.jpg)
Nate, I have just one word to say to you regarding your "Bowhunting Sabbatical."
A U S T R A L I A
I know you can already hear the didgeridoo calling your name. . .
post images no wider than 640, please
http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z112/pritisinha76/Australia/Jasonspics075-1.jpg
I'm with Rik .... Nate ... its calling .....
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0046.jpg)
No Bowquivers allowed ..... lol
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/8.jpg)
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0170.jpg)
Nice bow Bulldog, those Robin Hoods sure look good. How does she shoot for you?
Down-Under looks like a great time.
Blueridge ,
My Robin Hood is one sweet shooting beautiful bow . So much so that I am considering getting Craig to make me another just in case anything ever happened to my No 13 ...
Beautiful bows ... especially to a guy like me who idolises Robin Hood and has a hankering for Hill bows!
I feel that way about my Redman . Of course my Wesley and Big 5 are no slouches either. I do like the looks of that Robin though. I might need one more!!!
Blueridge, My other Hills have the locator grip and this one is straight. Didn't know how I was going to get along with it or not. But it was less than ten shots I was shoting very well with it.
Rik and Ben,
I've had a hankering to hunt Oz since I first watched "Man from Snowy River" in the 80s and wondered what it'd be like roaming those hills with my longbow...
I wonder how I can write off a trip like that....
back to Hill bows.....
any more guys with the Bug itch that has to be scratched?
Wahoo!!! The sun is shining for a change this morning!!!!!
I just had to get outside and shoot.
I hadn't shot this one for over a week so I decided to give it some exercise.
I'm not sure if I've ever shown this one off before? If I did there isn't any photo graphical evidence in my files to prove it.
My wesley... 70" and 58@31
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01423.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01003.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
PS: I will be continuing to pray for those who are still being blasted by the storms.
I'm feeling something coming on. I keep feeling a 64" Cheetah, mid 40's poundage, a black, laced, locator grip, antler tip overlays with a possible deer silver inlay.
I'm shooting a 66" Cheetah now and it's a little long for me. I'm fine with a tucked in tee-shirt but with a sweatshirt the string gets in my clothes just often enough that it gets me thinking about it. I draw 27' and the 64" size seems to be on the short edge of what is recommended by most people.
I guess I'll just treat the symptoms until I can convince myself that it will be alright and "just do it"
randy, with a 27" draw length, 66" or 68" would be best, imho. 64" for a hill style american flat longbow is gonna be too short - unless you like the feel of stacking limbs. :) a 66" tembo with caramelized string follow limbs and a slight locator grip would be right up yer alley. :D
Bulldog, my Wesley and Big 5 are dished grips but I ordered my Redman with the full grip,it fits real nice . If I get another Hill it will have the full grip.
Roy,
Good photos and I am glad to hear you can put the Ark back in the garage.
I see Mr. Wilson even made it out to watch you shoot. He looks good sporting that RH cover. ;)
Thanks for the advise Rob. That's the only reason I haven't ordered yet. I don't want to find out that it stacks or doesn't feel right for some reason. I'll be at Denton Hill this year. Maybe I'll get lucky and find something up there I could try out. My other thought is to talk to Craig about sending my 66"er to him for the antler overlays and making my dished grip a locator. I still wouldn't hunt with it unless I can convince myself I wouldn't catch my clothing. I would use it a lot as an indoor/fun bow though. By the way, my hunting bow is a 62" 21st Century.
QuoteOriginally posted by Randy Koleno:
I'm feeling something coming on. I keep feeling a 64" Cheetah, mid 40's poundage, a black, laced, locator grip, antler tip overlays with a possible deer silver inlay.
I'm shooting a 66" Cheetah now and it's a little long for me. I'm fine with a tucked in tee-shirt but with a sweatshirt the string gets in my clothes just often enough that it gets me thinking about it. I draw 27' and the 64" size seems to be on the short edge of what is recommended by most people.
I draw 25" and shoot 60" and 62" Hill/Hill-Style bows best. No stacking! It depends on the riser-length. If a 14" riser with a 5" long grip is enough for you, then it works great. John Schulz shoot in his video "Hittin' 'em like Howard Hill" a 64", RH, 14" riser, 64#@26", Trophy Hunter.
Nate,
I also find only your #3 vid via the posted link. Seems they have no puplic access. Could you be so kind and post the links, please?
I shoot a Big 5, 64" 60@29 and I draw 29". Never noticed any stacking. Shoots like a dream.
That sounds nice I draw 26.5" amd a 64 to 66 bow would be easy to hunt with.
Mudd did it to me again, he posted his Osage Royale in another thread and this time it was too much for me. Just sent an e-mail to Craig inquiring about a 66" all Osage Crocodile 90# @ 27". I am thinking of adding a strip of carbon to it, any one have any pros and cons to the carbon option on a hill?
i had a long phone chat with earle hoyt the year before he died, and the topic of carbon for the limbs came up. his take was that it (carbon) was more stable than f'glass with reference to the environment/weather fluctuations. works for me.
Works for me too, thanks Rob.
Rob, when you talk about carbon being more stable in temperature fluctuations, is that in regard to reducing limb twisting, or is in regarding limb-recovery rates?
http://youtu.be/ieKU9ZU4ZXM
http://youtu.be/cKHeTwIgp5A
http://youtu.be/UZ5GsE7zNZk
I draw 27" and am selling my 64" Hills .....
In string follow I like 66" and setback / reflex I prefer 68". I have never been sorry buying a bow that is long ... sure have regretted buying bow too short though...YMMV
64" will be absolutely fine at your draw ... i just reckon you won't enjoy it as much .....
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob, when you talk about carbon being more stable in temperature fluctuations, is that in regard to reducing limb twisting, or is in regarding limb-recovery rates?
both.
Sunset Hill thanks for the video I was holding my hill all wrong and was haveing consitancy issues. After watching the video you posted I fixed my grip and am back on track and my Hill is really performing.
Yes, thanks for posting those vids....I have a Big 5 I bought from Mudd a few months ago, since then I only put about 1 doz arras through it
!["" "[dntthnk]"]("graemlins/dntthnk.gif")
but this weekend will be different! it's coming out of hibernation!
QuoteOriginally posted by Montauks:
Yes, thanks for posting those vids....I have a Big 5 I bought from Mudd a few months ago, since then I only put about 1 doz arras through it
but this weekend will be different! it's coming out of hibernation!
gene, you going to whitt this saturday?
Yessir! :thumbsup: lookin forward to getting some fresh air and sunshine along with the smell of broken cedar (some of those knock a blocks can be tough) headed out tomorrow morning :coffee: u2?
QuoteOriginally posted by Montauks:
Yessir! :thumbsup: lookin forward to getting some fresh air and sunshine along with the smell of broken cedar (some of those knock a blocks can be tough) headed out tomorrow morning :coffee: u2?
be there late sat morning for the tanj meeting, shoot after lunch.
I'll keep my eye out for ya
will look for ya, too ....
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
http://youtu.be/ieKU9ZU4ZXM
http://youtu.be/cKHeTwIgp5A
http://youtu.be/UZ5GsE7zNZk
Yes, Thanx for the Vid's.. This week end I'll be doing some light shooting and after seeing Your tips I think I'll do way better.
sunset hill, thanks for the videos from me too. If only I could be that smooooth! Gerald
Good vids Nate, thanks
good stuff sunsethill! Hope to see more soon, I'm looking forward to getting my first Hill and putting that stuff into practice.
Pete
Can anyone tell me what to use for stu miller's calculator for HH bows? are they 1/8th from center? or 3/16ths?
Thanks for the videos Nate. Very helpful.
Nate,
thanks for posting the links.
Real good videos!
Jesse ,
I use 3/16ths ...
Nate-
Good videos, I beleive that John Schulz explains holding the bow and shooting it the same way in his video "Hitt'em like Howard Hill."
Darren
I talked to Jason a while back and its 3/16th with the strike plate. Pup
3/16 is what worked for me on stus calculator
Thanks for the videos, Nate!
QuoteOriginally posted by tradlongbow:
Nate-
Good videos, I beleive that John Schulz explains holding the bow and shooting it the same way in his video "Hitt'em like Howard Hill."
Darren
I looked on 3Rivers website and didn't see that Video, Anyone know where I can get a copy?
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
http://youtu.be/ieKU9ZU4ZXM
http://youtu.be/cKHeTwIgp5A
http://youtu.be/UZ5GsE7zNZk
real good vids, nate, for those wanting to emulate or understand the hill/shulz method. :thumbsup:
Ok thanks, I'll keep trying. I seem to be bang on at 10-12 yards but grouping 12" right at 20-22 yards. I'll try again today and make sure it wasnt me then ill try heavier points. I wish there was a store that sold glue on points around me!!
Jesse when I made the switch I was way to the right as well. Give your brain about a week to reset and you will be right on. What is your set up. Tell us and some on here will be able to tell you if you are close. For example my 56# @28 26.5 draw needed a 45-49 spine 27.25 BOP with 160 up front.
Sorry I meant I'm grouping 12" left from 20-22 yards. I'm shooting 65#@27". I used stu's calc and it matched me with 70# spine 30" to BOP and 145gn points. I should have ordered weaker shafts I guess. But we'll see if putting 160gn points on makes a difference.
really guyz, get yerselves test kits of the shaft materials you'll be using, along with a goodly range of point weights - this is the fastest and surest way to figure out arrow spine for any given bow (and archer). over the decades, the test kit expense will more than pay for itself.
I agree with you Rob, it's just that for me, ordering out of the states costs a little extra. I was quoted $25 shipping on a $38 order of shafts.
I really enjoyed watching the video's that Nate posted. I do have one question: how is the "swing form" modified if there are obstructions in the way? For instance, at the TBOF shoot in Ocala Nat'l Forest and our Traditional Shoot at our club there are trees/branches, etc that prohibit the "swing form" being used in the video. Do you go back to the more classic target archers draw or is there another method that can be used?
Rick
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
really guyz, get yerselves test kits of the shaft materials you'll be using, along with a goodly range of point weights - this is the fastest and surest way to figure out arrow spine for any given bow (and archer). over the decades, the test kit expense will more than pay for itself.
Listen to what this man says!! Forget the calculators! They just give you the direction!
Rick,
as I stated in the clips, the swing draw is nothing more than a way to get the bow on target, albeit in a fluid, expedient manner. It is conducive for moving shots but works well for stationary shots as well....However, that said...
When shooting downhill (which we have alot of that out here) or out of a treestand, you actually don't swing at all, the swing turns into a more set-arm style out of necessity. If I'm in this situation or with many obstacles like limbs, etc. I put the bowarm almost straight out, then just move it a couple of inches into position as I'm pulling straight back the last few inches...this helps me keep everything fluid and not static like a true set-arm method.
I second Mr. DiStefano, it really needs to be tested ...there are so many variables and alot of which reside in the shooter, grip, draw, anchor, releas,e string torque, on and on...I should have bought a test kit and a bunch of test points from 125-250 to start with!!!
Now i soaked abunch of money into my Beman MFX 500's and if they dont respond with the heavier point weight they are going to be useless....
Like Rob states,
there is absolutely no substitute for getting to learn your equipment as it fits you and your particular nuances. All this verbage that is discussed here is to give guidelines to start with. Schulz stated once that most people would do better in learning their shooting form inside and out, getting to learn their equipment, and just shooting. Sometimes we get so caught up on the small things of arrow flight being a tangible measurement, that we forget a big portion of day to day shooting inconsitencies is caused by form, not equipment.
If you get a 10# spine range of wood arrows... ie. 50 - 54 & 55 -59, with adequate fletching of 3 - 5" or 4 - 4" feathers, you can find your spine most of the time by just adjusting the length a little and the tip weight anywhere from 125 gr. to 190 gr. It's really that simple.... ;)
woodies have always been a problem for me, in terms of finding the right ones for specific bow and my shooting style. and even then, there are so many variables with organic shafting, what a long and time consuming effort to get maybe a dozen perfectly matched arrows out of hundred count, and then having to straighten and tease the buggers after shooting. but woodies are nostalgic fun and i'll always have at least a few dozen on hand.
alums have always been easy to tune and i've made and shot at least a dozen dozen for target archery. for field use they're a tad better than woodies.
carbons rule. period. but they're totally different animals than wood, alum or glass. they have a completely different dynamic range and using any commercial or homemade charts and calcs are borderline useless. when i first tested out carbons i followed the different manufacturer's recommendation and for me, they were all mega stiff ... even quadrupling the point weight didn't matter one bit. so after dropping more than a few hundred on carbons, i made up a test kit that i have today and it's more than paid for itself and all the carbons i wasted money on years ago.
fwiw, i had to go really light in spine for 29" and 55#, down to a 29.5" .500 spine beman ics hunter carbon with a total of 262gr up front. for hunting i use 357gr up front for a 585gr total weight arrow ... they fly like darts on rails and i still use a 4" 4-fletch lo-pro banana cut or burn with slight offset. but DON'T LISTEN TO ME - we are each "experiments of one" and find out for yerself what works best for you.
Rob I am pollar opposite I can get woodies right pretty quickly but have had nothing but heck with carbons.
QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisM:
Rob I am pollar opposite I can get woodies right pretty quickly but have had nothing but heck with carbons.
i have NO problem with wood, alum or glass - i can tear up an alum soda can at 11 yards consistently with a variety of woodie types, spines, 10-12 gpp weights, foc variations and fletchings. it's real mark distance, 15-35 yards, that separates well flying arrows from hunters.
the bugger is carbon, as you can attest. trust me on this, forget all talk and charts and calcs, get yerself a carbon test kit and either screw-in or glue-on points from 125 to 300 grains. still, a large part of tuning arrows to bows is still gonna be you.
i use screw-in points for target and glue-on points for hunting - 125gr steel adapters and 125-145gr blades. if i need more mass arrow weight, i have the same beman 500 shafts setup with 100gr brass inserts. yeah, i spent a lotta time thinking about arrows and usage and building 'em right.
Thanks Nate,
That's pretty much what I've been doing, but, it's always nice to receive comformation that you're doing the right thing.
Rick
Rob I thought it was a felony to shoot carbons from a Hill!! ;)
QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisM:
Rob I thought it was a felony to shoot carbons from a Hill!! ;)
not a crime for me! :D
i guarantee ya that if howard was around today he'd be shooting carbons at least some of the time. :thumbsup:
Figured it out today. Took a bareshaft with me and it was very obvious that my arrow spine was weak. Took 3/4" off the bareshaft and a couple fletched arrows and they all flew beautiful.
P.S. It wasnt just one round of shots that helped me determine this, probably 150 shots. You start to see the trends and it all becomes clear. Now to trim the rest of the arrows and stick with 145gn points!
Rob- I used minwax wipe on poly on this batch of cedars. I wont use anything else from now on. My only problem is I used fletch-tite premium for fletching and a few have come off already. I made sure to let them sit in the clamp for 20 mins each. What do you use? I have a tube of Duco that I'll probably try next.
* fletch-tite *platinum*
i use bohning fletch tape for woodies (minwax polyu finished) and carbons. i mostly burn the fletches and angle cut the quill base ("ramp" the cut so that there's a smooth transition from the shaft to the quill), then put a dot of platinum on each end of the fletch. these fletches are *tough* to get off. i'll never go back to gluing fletches, tape is THE way to go for me. each fletch is pressed down for about 3 seconds as opposed to waiting that 20 minutes for the goop to cure. :) i have a shoot to attend tomorrow and this morning it took me about 35 minutes to cut, fletch and burn 6 surewood shafts to make up woodie arrows for the "muzzy' event. another 10 minutes to hot melt glue on the judo points. ah, i love technology ... sometimes! :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/muzzy.jpg)
fletching with tape ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/th_MOV06270.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/vid/?action=view¤t=MOV06270.mp4)
Duco on anything painted and you will have to cut and scrape to get them off. Love the stuff.
Hey guys , I sold a rifle and have about 750 bucks! SO Im thinking of a HH Wesley special with a Texas ebony riser, black grip wrap with a straight grip (I wont be beat!!!) and black buffalo horn tips with clear glass on the beautiful Boo belly and back.,
My question is: do you think the difference would be noticable from shooting my HH Robin Hood with 4 lams of yew and 1 of Bamboo to all 5 Bamboo in my Wesley special, I would have Craig build up a same weight (maybe a few pounds heavier like 55#) 70 inch.
Im getting HH itis!!
My Redman is 2# heavier than my Wesley. They are both 70" take-downs. The Wesley seems a tad smoother in the draw but no noticeable difference in shooting characteristics.
Just an old fella chidin' in on the arrow flinging. I don't know anything about the carbon characteristics, but it seems like a lot of adding this, adding that and turning an arrow into something that we used to accuse the "wheelie" of being - too many parts that can go wrong. With wood, you find what shoots best, stay with it, and don't change. The working, damaging shots will be 20-25 yards - there's where you concentrate. Please take pity when you read this - I am just an "oldie" and not used to change.
I use cedar, cane, and carbon with my bows. There are no more parts in a carbon arrow than anything else. Regardless of the the type of shaft material you use, you need to experiment to find what works the best for you. To each their own. They all have benefits and negatives.
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckhorn47:
Just an old fella chidin' in on the arrow flinging. I don't know anything about the carbon characteristics, but it seems like a lot of adding this, adding that and turning an arrow into something that we used to accuse the "wheelie" of being - too many parts that can go wrong. With wood, you find what shoots best, stay with it, and don't change. The working, damaging shots will be 20-25 yards - there's where you concentrate. Please take pity when you read this - I am just an "oldie" and not used to change.
there is no sense in debating arrow shaft material as all have good and bad considerations. this is truly subjective stuff and the reasons why you prefer one over another is your business.
to allude carbon shafting as having something specifically in common with wheelbows is certainly your opinion, but many others would strongly beg to differ. the fact that carbons are extremely easy to tweak and woodies are not isn't cause to say that carbons are "too many parts that can go wrong", that's absolutely incorrect and please do tell me what parts of carbons "can go wrong"?.
shoot what you like, but please don't poo-poo in any way what you don't like or don't understand.
i have ample room in my quiver for both woodies and carbons ... and occasionally alums, too. :)
I've been a die hard woodies only shooter until recently. I have 4 kids plus myself to supply with arrows. I just ordered some carbons because we've been breaking a lot of wood lately...getting expensive.
Wood grows all around us. Some of it is weak and breaks easily (cedar). Some of it is strong and straight (Fir).
Aluminum? I hunted last July at the world's largest aluminum mine. I was not on this continent. Big Boars were everywhere. Crocs too. Aluminum arrows? None anywhere I could see. Straight-grained hardwood trees? Yep, as far as the eye could see.
You see, wood grows all around us. Carbon and aluminum do not.
You can buy Aluminum and carbon arrows in a store, and they do work well. Extremely well, as many of you can attest.
But to put it simply, you can't make your own. You can only buy them from a store.
Wood? Well, it grows all around us.
Rik, and your point is??? :bigsmyl:
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
Rik, and your point is??? :bigsmyl:
:p
In the throbbing silence of the midday heat, as you rest in the shade having a drink and perhaps a snooze, if you hold your Hill longbow up to your ear and listen real carefully, you'll hear it whisper to you about what arrow material it wants to shoot: "Timber," it whispers.
Just stirring, lads, just stirring.
For a few pictures of my hike with my Hill longbow and a few friends today, click on this link:
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=103590
Quote from David et al
"Rik, and your point is?"
Don't say it, Rik! I know what you're thinking!
Ben, Howard would be proud!
HH enthusiasts, I had no intention of pooh-poohing carbon shafts and as I already stated, I know nothing about carbon, but I see bowhunters, archers, putting on nocks that turn, inserting nails, weights, inserts of one kind or another, this weight or that, pieces of rope, water to tweak their arrow which shoots great for them until it requires changing again - just seemed like a lot of unnatural modular construction which would be more conducive to what I referred to earlier as the " wheelie" crowd.
Please understand that I acknowledge that carbon is traditional by our modern standards and I shoot side by side with those that fling arrows, no matter what. I just like wood. I love the quietness, making them, losing them, breaking them, and even hitting some targets every now and then.This has been my personal choice during my evolution with Archery. I do not and will never condemn any other facet of Archery, even the "wheelie" guys.
And, Ben, thank you for allowing us to go along with you on your hike - beautiful country and great photos.
Frank
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckhorn47:
... HH enthusiasts, I had no intention of pooh-poohing carbon shafts and as I already stated, I know nothing about carbon, but I see bowhunters, archers, putting on nocks that turn, inserting nails, weights, inserts of one kind or another, this weight or that, pieces of rope, water to tweak their arrow which shoots great for them until it requires changing again - just seemed like a lot of unnatural modular construction which would be more conducive to what I referred to earlier as the " wheelie" crowd.
...
the same could be said for those that go the extra miles and foot woodies both externally (now THAT'S work!) and internally (nail footing).
the point is, all manner of shaft material can be tweaked in some fashion, but carbs and alums can be an easier tweak of the front end due to screw-in points and the fact the shaft is a hollow tube. it's a plus to hunt with screw-in points that can be changed in seconds right in the field.
good luck with yer woodies - no question they're a fun arrow shaft material, i build 'em more than carbons ('cause woodies just don't last! hah!).
Well said, Rob. "Woodies" do give us a reason to build more.
QuoteOriginally posted by Buckhorn47:
Well said, Rob. "Woodies" do give us a reason to build more.
+1 :thumbsup:
It a art from and if give a good feeling that you work on them and adding you personal touch and them hunt with them . I love wood arrow and that my 2 cent (http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g308/deanfamilyalbum/f214ae45.jpg). Here some hot off jig
Not changing the subject but I am. Recently on the classifieds a fellow posted he wanted to buy any left handed Hill bows in his stated range. Hee hee hee he needed to keep a closer look out on the ads, I have a Big 5 on the way to my house.....stabow
With the weatherman saying today might be our first day of the year to reach the 70-degree mark, I knew it would be a good day to limber up a Hill bow and get in a bow hike to see if I could arrow a wascally wock chuck.
Well, the Rock Chucks beat me, but MAN did I make a great 40 yard shot on one. Only missed the rascal by three inches to the left---the wind it was a blowin').
The tufts of grass and small lumps of dirt didn't fare as well though, and I made many a fine shot on them at between 50 and 60 yards. I carried a range finder to check the yardage and practice accuracy at long range. My bow is point-on at 40 yards, I just hold a tad high at 50 (and yes, a "tad" is an official archery measurement).
Here is what Idaho Rock Chuck country looks like. As you can see, it's arrow-breaking country to the extreme. Still, I took only my best arrows. To break them on a rock whist aiming for a Rock Chuck is a good death for a carefully handcrafted hunting arrow. After all, these wascally wock chucks are just a bit harder to kill with a longbow than mule deer. Derned things have a sixth sense, and eyesight every bit as good as mule deer. It was nice to feel some sunshine again though. It's been a cold, wet end of winter here in Idaho. Still too much snow in the high country to to after bear. Soon though. . . soon. . .
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Rock_Chuck_Country_lowres.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/roch_chuck_country2_lowres.jpg)
Ok , since Im having a deal with carbon MFX's right now what would be the recommended place to start with if I was going to get "into woodies" I like a hunting weight arrow in the 550-625 or so range for my draw weight....I draw 29 inches and would need an arrow 30 inches at least. My HH is a 52# @ 29. and I shoot 1 over 2 under standard.
Thanks Guys
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/roch_chuck_country2_lowres.jpg)
rik, you shoot 3 under???
For shooting termite mounds here, carbon simply can't take what the Douglas fir can.
I see Rik shoots three-under; so do I. How many other Hill shooters do?
Makes me wonder if the HH lower limb would be more correctly flexed with 3 under??
Is doug fir the strongest of the natural wood? if so how come evrybody(most?) talk about cedars?
thanks HH guys!
Stabow,
Congrats on the acquisition of the Big 5, if it were a tad heavier I'd be positively green with envy.
Ben,I shot 3 under for a while but went back to split and developed it,wouldn't go back it just feels and works so natural with instinctive shooting.
Since were talking woodies.Why would anybody shoot them when carbons and Aluminum are straighter,easier to work with,easier to weight and easier to change pionts?
Lets take alook at this thread on HH bows,171 pages of interest in shooting a bow that really doesn't compare to the masses on the market today.Compounds are so much faster and even the other Recurves and RD longbows in most all categories have them beat.
Our society and lives today are instant this and Fast that,everything today is made for us with the least amount of work possible.Kids walk down the street with there Ipods and Blackberrys and Modern hunters shooting guns and Compounds have every gadget Imagineable with them to ensure success and complete comfort for any weather condition.
Its 2011,yes 2011 in a strip of jungle that encompasses Peru and Brazil ,A small group of hunters slowly sneak down a gametrail ,silently watching the treetops and jungle armed only with a homemade bow and selfmade arrows.Theres and there familys survival totally relies on how well they can hunt and shoot.They do not know the civilized world and have had no contact with it .There weapons are made exactly like there forefathers taught them thousands of years before.The tribe are the Fleicheros (People of the arrow)The modern neighbouring tribes keep their distance.
From the beginning of time man has faught wars and fed his family only armed with the bow and built his own equipment.
In recent years Howard Hill and all our earlier modern pioneers did the same.
For me the Hill Style bow is the simplist bow their is yet the hardest to master and to me thats what this is all about .I have spent many years and dollars on all the items needed to make good wood arrows Fletchers,Burners,Spinetesters,grain scales,crestors etc. etc.
Building and shooting Wood arrows is a labour of love and takes me back into the history of our forefathers and I think of this so often during the building process.Many may scoff at this,BUT just remember we do this just as a hobby ,but even as you read this there are those that still do this to survive and exist.
I thank all who have contributed to this thread and brought back the Lure of the longbow,many knowledgable people who have shared their expertise for the betterment of Hill style bow and wooden arrows ,I applaud you.
Great Pics Rik !
lokks like a an awesome place to fling Doug Firs !
yessir, steve - aesthetics are the only reason why i shoot woodies, and not cause they're more consistent/accurate than carbs or alums, cause they sure as heck ain't over the long haul (and the short one, too). and as we all know too well, in any archery game it ain't the bow that matters, it's ALL about the arrow.
in no short order, as history has proven time and time again, you introduce a primitive indigenous man to the ways of the modern world and they'll bite hook, line and sinker sooner or later. just review the history of the native american indian and how they adapted to the spanish horse, trade steel and black powder ... and those are the good things!
Rik, I like your pics, it was many moons ago since I was in Idaho but I'll never forget the welcoming sign on the highway "Free Taters For Out of Staters" Well I finally got to give my Big 5 (that I got from Mudd...BTW a great guy to deal with) a good workout at a popular 3D shoot around here
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0429111437a.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0429111757b.jpg)
Shooting over the hedgerow in archery golf
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0501111104a.jpg)
11 year old nephew, he really likes the FluFlu arras
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0429111426a.jpg)
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0429111425a.jpg)
It was a great shoot overall with good weather
Ben,
My handle gives it away but never-the-less I shoot 3under and my two Hill style Northern Mist Sheltons are tillered for 3under!
Larry
Montauks Thanks for the kind words and an even bigger thank you for the pictures.
It sure looks like you folks had some fun.
Did you manage to hook up with Rob?
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Clandinin:
.......I thank all who have contributed to this thread and brought back the Lure of the longbow,many knowledgable people who have shared their expertise for the betterment of Hill style bow and wooden arrows ,I applaud you.
X2 Steve!
This thread has been a lot of fun - inspiring to say the least.
Larry, my two Hills are tillered for 3-under, too. I've shot plenty of standard-tiller bows just fine, so I'm not exactly sure that I can feel the difference, but it does give me a little extra confidence, which goes a long way.
Rob and Steve, it seems to me that it is a most natural part of the human condition to accept whatever's easiest in any undertaking. I'm not immune to that, either. I am certainly a modern fellow, with a far easier life than many who went before, and I enjoy the benefits of instant this and online that, and now that my town has become McKatherine, I find myself going through the drive-through to collect McBreakfast at 0430 before heading-out into the bush to be old-fashioned and hunt using the spot-and-stalk technique - Oh, the shame of this McPractice! But when I do choose to do something the old-fashioned way, a harder way, the satisfaction and pleasure are most rewarding.
Mudd, we always have a good time at this shoot it's kinda hard not too, there's so much to do...I did run into Rob but I couldn't make it to the meeting time for a shoot with him, but I'm sure we'll meet soon for some arra flinging
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j319/Screamin_Eagle/0430110725a.jpg)
Here's my sister in-law serving up some good coffee
QuoteOriginally posted by Montauks:
Well I finally got to give my Big 5 (that I got from Mudd...BTW a great guy to deal with)
Yeah...Mudd is a jewel. Honest as the day is long...and too much fun!
:thumbsup:
MT
I would try your wooden shafts at 55-60, even 60-65 spine. Experience will be your best indicator, however, I bet you would be pretty close with 55-60. There are sponsors here who I think can supply a test group, if you have no others to try. As to the weight, I would aim for heavier cedars, tapered nock end 11/32" - 5/16", or a heavier material like laminated birch, ramin, hickory. These Hills like heavy arrows. Of course one can try heavier heads to gain weight on the front but in my own experience, I keep the weight up front at 125-150 grains and also shoot 550-600 grain arrows.
This thread just keeps on getting better! Thank you to everyone again for keeping it going and adding such insightful posts.
Ben,You hit the nail on the head LOL. Computers have linked us all and here its such a great cause and all of us get caught up in the McInstant this and that,but it is so nice to go back and emulate the way things use to be.
Robb,you're so right when modern conviences became available how fast us humans took to change for the betterment,BUT isn't it great to sit back and ponder how things were with our ancestors before all the new items became available.I really wonder how much groups of hunters sat around talking of arrow materials and bow efficiencies.LOL.
I love woodies ... and they just go with My Hill bows and back quivers . I like taking the time to make them and enjoy making them for others and showing others how to do so ...
Hoping that the AD's i just bought from Ted at Raptor fly just as well !!!
Still , when a hunt is successful , it just seems that much "more " successful when its with woodies I have created ... but i have been known to be a touch of a romantic lol ....
And woodies don't make as much noise in my back quiver as my trusty ol' 2016's
I like all makes and sizes of arrows and enjoy shooting them from all of my bows ...
the differences come down to personal preference , availability and time ...
Now back to Hill bows ......
Does anyone here have a HH Sirocco? If so, how do you like it. How is the Sting
Ray Grip?
Pictures?
Matt
Ok, I really appreciate you guys and the help and advice you have given me thus far... so my question is when I shoot my Whip I dont get the tail high kick that I get from my HH Robin Hood.
If you have been following my learning experience, Ive finally got the Beman 500 @31 inches MFX Classic to shoot well with 200-250 grain field points up front out of the Whip.
250 seems to be a bit too much FOC with the 75 grain HIT inside, but 200 grainers work great.
When I take the same arrow with the 200 or 250 up front I still get a kick off the shelf of my HH.
Bow weights are the same (but I know the Whip is faster).
I just cant get the kick to go away with the HH.
Im putting full heel and solid finger (middle pad) pressure as sunset hill describes, but I just cant seem to figure it out.
I tried 3 under with my HH and the arrow flew better but I really dont want to have different holds for each different bow...it MUST be how Im shooting the HH??? any thing you think I can try to get rid of the tail high? ( the reason I care so much is i think with broadheads up front bad things will happen with that much arrow wag.
Thanks for sticking with me and I know typing wha is going on is tough
I might just drive over to Craig E. in Hamilton and have him watch me shoot....
plus I want to order that Wesley Special!!!
Maybe just maybe the old HH is telling me she only wants real wood flying off the shelf????
Mate , maybe they are still just spining too high ?
If you can try some lower # arrows and see how you go . The Whip and Hills are two diferent beasts as the risers are cut very differently in terms of centreshot .
I shoot really weak spined carbons outta my Hills and still have to weigh themup front ... ymmv
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
... I shoot really weak spined carbons outta my Hills and still have to weigh themup front ... ymmv
exact same for me - really weak carbons with lots of weight up front ... 29.5" beman ics hunter 500's, 350 up front, 585 grains total weight outta 55#. foc is nearly 30%.
but the opposite for woodies ,,, 29.5" surewood doug fir 45/50#, 125gr up front, 590 grains total weight for the same 55#. foc is maybe 16%.
once again, yer personal testing is what counts most and there are NO hard 'n' fast rules. ymmv. ;)
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Clandinin:
... BUT isn't it great to sit back and ponder how things were with our ancestors before all the new items became available.I really wonder how much groups of hunters sat around talking of arrow materials and bow efficiencies.LOL.
that's why i shoot longbows and not those other "modern" contraptions. :)
Ok guys thanks, I will keep at it, does an arrow shelf cut more to center make the arrow act stiffer? , maybe I just need to go to larger diameter (normal) for the HH.
A question on Brace height...since the manual for my HH says brace at 6"1/2 +- 1/8" what is my allowable range to adjust? I dont want to hurt the HH RobinHood string follow by trying to brace at 7", will it hurt anything?
what are some of your brace settings and have you seen anything work out of the "normal " range Craig suggests.
Thanks Guys.
Patrick
I've known Rik for nearly 20 years and he has always shot 3 under!
Hey Gang-
I've been busy with work and school lately, and I haven't had enough time to do anything else. I'll have a few days off this week, so I plan on doing some shooting and maybe some scouting.
I found these pics for sale on *bay, thought you guys would like to see them.
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/LFPP24313A.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/LFPP24208A.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/LFPP24203A.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/LFPP24207A.jpg)
Each bow is different so IT has to tell you where it's going to be happy! My experience has been that string follow bows tend to be happier with a lower brace than a standard or reflex profile but YMMV!
QuoteOriginally posted by Raging Water:
Does anyone here have a HH Sirocco? If so, how do you like it. How is the Sting
Ray Grip?
Pictures?
Matt
Matt-
A friend of mine bought some stingray from BigJim at TBOF shoot. He plans on making an armguard out of it. The feel of the texture was ribbed, may make a good grip.
Darren
Judging by the look on Howard's face those boys just might have out shot him.
I am thrilled to see Howard pulling a group of arrows that look like I could have shot them...lol
Thanks for posting those.
God bless, Mudd
Mudd, I had the same thoughts except about me.
I bet that group he is pulling is from 50 yards!
Mudd-
Howard's arrow is the one in the bullseye,Howard was just pulling the rest of the arrows for the kids. :biglaugh:
Darren
Great photos Rik,
I know you're chompin on the bit to get bear hunting if you're out rock chuckin now.....
you need to get some native animal blood on 'gone outback'....lol.
great photos Darren...cool stuff!
Ben K.
I've had the same experience too, with split finger tilered bows. The nock height is usually greater for me but arrow flight is good("nuthin' but nock"). Theoretically a little speed might be lost but without a chrono' who cares!!
I got started in Trad Archery with woodies, tried microflites(now I'm dating myself),alum and carbons. Recently I made 3dozen woodies(2 doz. Sitka Spruce and a doz. Doug fir. Enjoyed making them and it's fun to have woodies that shoot about as good as the other stuff. I find that woodies are a little more precious to me then Blem/carbons (like when shooting at rockchucks, Rik!). ;)
Larry
Im gettin closer fellas, reduced brace height to 6 3/8 and she seems to like that better than anything over 6.5 inches.
PLUS I quit bare shaft tuning....!!! forget it!!
Whew, got that out of my system...
31 inch 500 MFX's setup with 200-250 field tips are hitting about the same.
@ 25 yards im getting good groups, still hitting left for me but I will just have to work through it.
Keep shooting.... keepshooting....keepshooting...
wondering on which type of 200 -250 grain
2 blade to go with....
Hi Guys, Take a good look at the pics posted by Tradlongbow. I think I've noticed this before. To me it looks like the older Howard got, the more upright he wore his quiver. I know I can reach over my shoulder a little easier than off the point of my shoulder, although I realize the benefits of wearing it on a diagonal. I wear mine on the diagonal, but I can see the time coming when I might have to change! Anyone else notice this?
Gerald
Gerald,
look close....in the photo with the pheasant, he's using his standard quiver...off the shoulder.
In the other photos with the kids and target, he's using a mass-produced type quiver...ala target archery type with o-ring for double strap attachment, lower bottom attachment conducive for double strap, and fancy leatherwork. These type quivers hung more upright as was their function...
Aw come on Nate, I was just trying to make excuses for my 61yr. old shoulders. You have to admit, it sounded like a good theory! :dunno:
Gerald
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
PLUS I quit bare shaft tuning....!!! forget it!!
Whew, got that out of my system...
Keep shooting.... keepshooting....keepshooting...
:clapper:
Yup, them feathers are there for a reason IMHO...
I never had to quit--never started. ;)
@GRS:
Ask me. I can tell you a real good "backquiversmith". Not cheap, but worth every penny!!
tg2nd, Thanks for the offer. I have several already, just can't grab arrows quite as quickly as I used to. Not as tall, flexible, and graceful as Howard or Nate. :biglaugh:
Gerald
Quitting bare-shaft tuning was the best thing I did in my wooden arrow venture.
Ben,Your so right !Sometimes we get caught up in making things alot more complicated than they really are. I keep telling myself,KISS you idiot KISS! (KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID !LOL)
my new (to me) Big-5 arrived today!
Only had a little bit to shoot, but now I'm bit bad!
I haven't felt any handshock, and I picked up some draw length with the grip.
Now, which one to start saving for next......
God Bless
Pete
Congrats Pete
We have a lot of knowlegable guys right here, 100% Howard Hill enthuists. :campfire:
Darren
Pete, I noticed the same thing with my Big Five. The deep grip on the HH gave me an extra 1/2 in, draw length over my R/D longbows with rounder locater grips. What length/draw weight did you get? Mine is 68", 50lbs.@28". Actually weighs 53lbs., but at my 27" draw, I'm getting 50.
Gerald
thanks guys!
Mine is 68" marked 50#@28"
Pretty sure I'm getting the whole 28" out of it with the deep grip, but have to get around a scale to check the actual #
I can see going 100% Hill before long...
God Bless
Pete
been flying arrows since the Doc gave Me to OK to let loose.. I'm really liking My Jerry Hill, Deluxe Stalker
Pete-
Post a pic of your new Big 5, I would like to see it.
Darren
Pete since this thread started My collection went from no hills to having nothing but hills, selling or trading 7 bows to buy three hills and I couldn't be happier :bigsmyl:
Not to be anti social but how bout we ask the moderator(kind and gentle like)if we could have our own little corner of the website just for Hill Shooters??
Is that a bad Idea?
Patrick
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
Not to be anti social but how bout we ask the moderator(kind and gentle like)if we could have our own little corner of the website just for Hill Shooters??
Is that a bad Idea?
Patrick
Patrick, it is not a bad idea. Actually the idea was kicked around here, in this thread a couple miles back.
There were pros and cons to the issue (some technical) and the end result was to leave it here....but that was a long time ago.
Maybe Rob will chime in and give his reassessment but, to me, nothing much has changed since then.
For me, it is still the best and first (sometimes the only) place to vist, especially when I don't have a lot of time to play.
I think having it here makes it easier and quicker for "other" guys who may not be into Hill bows to check out what all the activity is about. Maybe get a few more converts that way. :wavey:
I'm back on track. Got derailed 'cause all of a sudden my arrows flew horribly and the bow was getting shockie. Even went as far as picking up my recurve and regretting getting a Hill. Well last night at about 10 pm I was watching impossible shots and it was the one with byron shooting a robin hood arrow. I replayed it in slow motion and noticed that my bow hand compared to his was too much into the grip. I went outside and adjusted the grip and bang perfect flight and dead on. I shot under the security light.
I'd say we are doing just fine right where we are.
My two cents worth...lol
God bless,Mudd
consider this thread the "forum" for hill style, american flat longbows. and it's always in the face of all of trad gang. :)
Well if there was a forum just for Hill bows I might not have bought one. It was reading through all these posts that got me bit by the bug.
Mudd, the bow hasn't arrived yet but maybe today.
Oh and I think I sold my BW this morning so maybe the wife will get off me for buying the Hill.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
consider this thread the "forum" for hill style, american flat longbows. and it's always in the face of all of trad gang. :)
I agree 100% with Rob, this thread needs to stay on the PowWow where it is seen by everyone. If it is moved to another location, it may be lost and forgotten. If I have a little time to be on the computer, I go straight to this thread. I really enjoy reading and learning about Hill's adventures and shooting the Hill straight limbed bow. I also enjoy my collection of books/videos from Hill, Schultz, Ekin, and Wesley.
Darren
QuoteOriginally posted by tradlongbow:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
consider this thread the "forum" for hill style, american flat longbows. and it's always in the face of all of trad gang. :)
I agree 100% with Rob, this thread needs to stay on the PowWow where it is seen by everyone. If it is moved to another location, it may be lost and forgotten. If I have a little time to be on the computer, I go straight to this thread. I really enjoy reading and learning about Hill's adventures and shooting the Hill straight limbed bow. I also enjoy my collection of books/videos from Hill, Schultz, Ekin, and Wesley.
Darren [/b]
x2
X3
X4.
I figured something out last night that might be old hat for some of y'all. But I shoot three under and I notice how dramatically I could affect the arrow flight by how I distributed the pressure across my fingers. I had too much weight on the ring finger it appears. It never seemed to be as big of a deal with my recurve, but I feel like I've been fighting uphill to get consistently good flight off my Hill since the bug bit. It's these little ah-hah moments that keep me at it though.
I've been watching this thread since the first post as I have a 68 WS 52@27. 30 years ago I tried a HH deluxe glove and gave it to a friend after a couple of weeks, couldn't make the transition from a tab I was using then. The glove just felt too bulky. I decided to try one again a couple months ago and determined I would give it an honest try. It took quite a while for the stalls to form to my fingers and they were very tight at first but they eventually formed to my fingers. I used Lexol leather treatment after every shooting session and continued to work my fingers deeper into the stalls. During this process the glove still felt bulky and the stalls would get loose but I kept working with them and they took on the shape of each finger. Eventually the inserts developed a bend where the string layed against the stalls and the 1st two stalls began to develop a hook shape but the area forward of the string was straight and no string groove developed.
Observations:
I've found I no longer care for feeling the string. One less sensation in the shooting process. It's the push on the bow and when the the glove hit's anchor it's time.
This glove gives a clean release there is no string groove to overcome.
The bend in the stall insert provides repeatable string placement similar to the plate on a Cavalier tab.
When I need to use my fingers the stalls slip off and dangle by the wrist strap.
There are as many different types of finger protection as there are archers and I have invested alot of $ and made few of my own over the years.
This glove works well if you work with it until it conforms to you.
Pass the popcorn.
ok, some pics of my Big-5, sorry for the quality had to use the phone. I have to batteries for the camera...
Riser
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_jk-fxTq0LEQ/TcMW6zotrVI/AAAAAAAAByQ/gAS-c74XDZw/s640/riser.jpg)
Upper Limb:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_jk-fxTq0LEQ/TcMW6o3fGgI/AAAAAAAAByU/kTlgq_CbcXU/s640/upper%20limb.jpg)
Lower Limb:
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_jk-fxTq0LEQ/TcMW7pX_FII/AAAAAAAAByY/tTxTD4oy0TM/s640/lower%20limb.jpg)
Aw heck, those photos are making me wax poetic:
You know you own a great bow,
If it is narrow and deep-cored.
Because we all know,
That's where great energy is stored.
(Alright, alright, stop throwing the tomatoes—at least I am not showing you another photo of a spray-painted Howard Hill bow.)
Anybody have a Hill with the vera wood riser? Might you also have a picture?? :wavey:
That's nice Pete :thumbsup: .
David,
Here are pictures of verawood riser.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643256.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643256.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643302.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643302.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643342.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643342.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643378.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1304643378.jpg)
That is some nice VERA WOOD Chris!
Thank you for sharin' the photos.
Shoot straight, Shinken
:archer2:
Pictures really do not do it justice. It almost looks like deer hair.
Copy guys on leaving the HH bug right here....thats how I got interested...and hooked. glad to hear your opinions.
Anyway...I got the book "Hunting the Hard Way" and the book "Hitting 'em like Howard Hill"
great stuff, I paid WAY too much for the "Hitting 'em" book on Amazon...60$(ouch)
I thought it was rather rare...there was only one offered used in very good condition.
But I see there is one listed on e&^Y right now for way less.
I was looking everywhere for the Video of this book Hitting 'em" like Howard Hill and I found one for rent via "SmartFlix"...it came today .
I watched it and its just like the book by John Schulz. pretty neet to watch and see the ultra glossy black HH bow he uses and how Howard taught him to shoot. neet !
Anyway Im shipping it back to SmartFlix tomorrow or Monday(might watch it again) and the # for it is A6840 if anyone wants to rent it after me. They might even have another copy i dont know.
pretty cheap I think it cost me a total of 10$ to do the whole thing.
Enjoy.
Patrick
Pete-
I like the Big Five, the riser looks like purple heart.
Chris-
The Verawood is really cool looking.
Nice bows,
Darren
Oh, the bug has me all bitten up. I got my first HHA catalog when I was about 12. Well 24 years later I finally got my first hill, have another one in the mail and one I'm doing some research on. Glad I don't have a wife to answer to anymore. I would be getting a lot of this :knothead:
thanks Darren (and all).
I'm not sure about the riser wood, you might be right. I got from a fella that got from a fella....
I've only got to shoot it a little bit, hope to make up for that this weekend!
God Bless
Pete
Chris, thanks for the vera wood pictures--really cool! Do you find it a bit heavier in mass weight than other woods? According to wood density info I found it is quite dense--81# per cubic foot. Osage is about 59 in comparison. I could be interested in a longbow with a tad more mass weight. :D
Sal it's great news about the doc letting you get back to shooting.
I'm happy to hear you're getting along well with the Jerry Hill.
God bless,Mudd
i read and hear lotsa different opinions on hill style longbow riser woods and mass weight.
there is a camp that believes in lighter weight woods such as the myrtle genus can provide, and others are into heavy hardwoods like cocobolo and all the ebony flavors from around the globe.
given the dimensions and all the materials, save for the riser, are equal, and given the small footprint of a hill riser, ain't gonna be much mass bow weight difference 'tween lightweight myrtle and super dense lignum-vitae, just a few ounces, and yer bowhand ain't gonna feel that to any major degree.
so, personally, none of that matters a hoot to me for performance - it's really all about the bow design, the limbs, and how you use it all best to your advantage.
ymmv.
I think the take-down Hills are a bit heavier in mass than the one-piece bows due to the metal handle, but I traded my one-piece Wesley for a nearly new wall tent, so I don't have it available to weigh and compare to my take-down Wesleys.
I have had bows made with cocobola, bubinga, myrtle, ebony etc. I like them all.
Mostly, I've gotten cocobola because I like the the black swirl of the grain pattern and the deep red color. "Different strokes for different folks"
Darren
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
Sal it's great news about the doc letting you get back to shooting.
I'm happy to hear you're getting along well with the Jerry Hill.
God bless,Mudd
Thanx Roy, It does feel good to shoot again and that Jerry Hill seems to feel just right since I watched the Vids that SunSetHill posted. I'm getting a very nice release and darts flying from the Bow...
That one-piece Wesley I mentioned above sure brought home a lot of meat over the years.
I am not sure if I've shared this photo here before, but it brings back some great memories. It took me 20 years to finally draw an Idaho moose tag, and the Wesley had to make a quick-draw shot that would have made Marshall Dillon proud.
It was the one and only time I have had to use the swing-draw on an animal. Things were going to Heck quickly, but the Wesley did it's job to perfection! That once-in a lifetime tag made for a 23-day, once-in-a-lifetime adventure in the shadows of the Tetons I will never forget.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/moose.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
so, personally, none of that matters a hoot to me for performance - it's really all about the bow design, the limbs, and how you use it all best to your advantage.
ymmv.
x2
Wow, I'm not sure what happened to the photo, the Photobucket resizing cropped it weird.
Rik, That is an awsome pic and story even with the weird cropping.
Aw, geez, Rob, don't mess up a guy's rationalization for "needing" to try a different Hill! I've about run out of "reasons" to get more. that one was my last, best excuse, and here you go and rain on my parade. ;)
I got that Wesley from Mudd last night and I think every shaft I've got is toooo stiff. I was going to fire up Stu's calculator but what do I put on the center shot measurement?
Dan
QuoteOriginally posted by David Mitchell:
Aw, geez, Rob, don't mess up a guy's rationalization for "needing" to try a different Hill! I've about run out of "reasons" to get more. that one was my last, best excuse, and here you go a rain on my parade. ;)
oops, sorry! :wavey: :campfire:
QuoteOriginally posted by D Sheffey:
I got that Wesley from Mudd last night and I think every shaft I've got is toooo stiff. I was going to fire up Stu's calculator but what do I put on the center shot measurement?
Dan
Try adding more point weight. Other then that a better way would be to get a test kit of shafts to find what works best from that bow & You.
Tomorrow morning I will be off to shoot my first 3-d with my Hill. Hopefully it will go well.
QuoteOriginally posted by D Sheffey:
I got that Wesley from Mudd last night and I think every shaft I've got is toooo stiff. I was going to fire up Stu's calculator but what do I put on the center shot measurement?
Dan
I'm sure there will be more experience replies, but a quick measurement last night figured right at 1/4" from center on my Big-5.
Good Luck
Pete
Due to an earlier post about Schulz' video...it got me thinkin'..
I've got an extra vhs cassette of his video...if it would help guys out, I'd be glad to ship it wherever for a month rental, just pay the 5.oo postal fee.
Does anyone still own a vhs player? :confused:
Re riser weight... I've played a lot with that, since I'm a wood junkie and put as much effort into the selection of wood for looks as I do the bow :) Rob's right that there isn't mass enough for a tremendous difference, but you can sure feel the difference there is. I've gone from the light end, bamboo and cherry risers, to katalox and Argentine Mesquite (not related to the US variety). These latter are right close to ebony.
Bamboozle and Cherry Pie are barely a pound. Arakhor, with the Arg. Mesquite, is 24 oz.
Just for kicks, I went down and weighed a bunch of bows, unless noted, all are 66":
Bamboozle, laminated bamboo riser - 17.5 oz
Arakhor, Arg. Mesquite - 24 oz
Cherry Pie, cherry riser and limbs - 16 oz.
Hill Robin Hood, Texas Ebony riser - 20 oz.
Hill Big Five by Craig, cocobolo riser - 19 oz. (68" bow)
Kramer Big Five, very slim 36#, walnut riser - 15 oz.
Howard's Golden Eagle, myrtle or maple - 22 oz. (68" bow)
So, you can definitely get an extra 6 or 7 oz. from the riser, and you definitely can feel it in handling the bow. I wish I still had Smoke on hand to weigh. I used a laminated katalox riser on that one and it really had a nice feel in the hand.
Cutout on Hills seems to run 3/16" to 1/4", but be careful, you'd be amazed how much difference the thickness of the leather makes! One reason I often just shoot off the wood.
RE arrows, I keep a set of Easton alum sizes from 1213 through 1916 bare shafts ready to shoot. (plus a few odd heavier ones I've picked up along the way in case someone who shoots heavier comes by). Just see which one shoots best, try it fletched, then make up a set, or, if wood is wanted, use wood of the same spine. Been using that set of bare shafts for years now. Great investment if you have a lot of bows coming and going.
dick's made some good points.
imho, it still boils down to bow & limb design, arrow mass weight, and how you shoot the bow (form). dense woods transmit vibrations far more readily than less dense woods. some woods augment the hi-freq vibes, and some woods the low end. none of this will matter much IF you shoot arrows of proper mass weight, where the majority of the transmission energy (bowstring) gets passed on to the missile (arrow). wasted, unused energy that overflow the missile's gas tank go to the limbs, to the riser, to yer bow hand. form matters here, too - a tight death grip on the bow handle, with increased hand/riser surface area, increases the transfer of wasted energy from the engine (bow) to the shooter (you). so, with most any hill bow design, shoot appropriate mass weight arrows (10gpp is a good start) and avoid the death grip. ymmv. ;)
Just stick a bow quiver with 5 (550) grain arrows and forget about riser weight! (I know, wash out my mouth with soap!)
At least Rik agrees with me!!
Great moose photo Rik! "That's my dream hunt".
Ran into a a nice young bull (not literally) while dirt bikin' south of Pocatello near near Scout Mtn. couple of years ago. It got the old man a little excited :archer: . Will be back first part of June 2011.
Larry, Larry, Larry...wha'sa matta wid ya'??? A bow quiver on a Hill??? :scared: :saywhat: :nono:
Let try this...
I shoot at least a 31.5" arrow with 5" feathers on it.
How long should my bonfide Hill Style quiver be?
Thanks.
Chuck
My arrows measure 32.75" from the tip of the broadhead to the tip of the nock. The Hill style quiver that Nate at Sunset Hill made for me is 25.5" deep.
Oh NO!!! couldent TAKE IT ... Just ordered from Craig a 70 inch Wesley Special 5 lam Boo, with African Ebony riser, white Ivory Tips on Black glass on the back, and clear on the belly to show the beautiful Boo, Black Elk laced grip and a Black and white B-50 Flemish string with Black serving.
55# at 29 inches....
Im going to call her "The Skunk"
LOL.
Quote from Dick:
"Cutout on Hills seems to run 3/16" to 1/4", but be careful, you'd be amazed how much difference the thickness of the leather makes! One reason I often just shoot off the wood."
Very true, Dick, took me awhile to realize that, although I don't use the bare wood, I do use the thinnest leather I can find - it really does make a difference.
Does thinning the shelf material make the arrow act weaker or stiffer closer to centershot? Im using small daimeter Beman MFX Classics...
Oh, I had a dream last night of hunting elk with my just ordered Wesley special.... So this morning I had to get ahold of Craig and ask him for some changes..
Ivory tips to Elk tips and the black and white string to Black and Brown to match the Elk tips..
I think if I ever get another Wesley Ill make it Black Back white belley with Ivory tips and have him label it the "Skunk"
Might have to go sell another gun!!
Its raining here in Montana...so no shooting this am...
MT I notice little difference in the spine, at least with wooden arrows, however, I shoot 50-55 spine out of two longbows, one a Hill Big Five, and the other a Rocky Mountain Hill style which has a closer to centre rest. Both bows handle these arrows well with thin leather sideplates and shelf covering, however, with the Big Five I tend to change my grip by sliding my hand around the handle a little more to make both both shoot to the same point. The Rocky Mountain arrows are dead quiet, however I do get a little noise from the Big Five. Both have straight grips.
I just asked Craig if he could Carmelize the Boo for me on my Wesley Special...hope he doesnt get mad me asking for all theses changes...its just hard to think of it all prior to ordering!!!!
so for my own sake here is the order...Craig if you are reading sorry for all the changes! (at least you haven startred making it yet!)
70" Wesley Special, straight grip,55#@29 inches, Black glass on back, black Elk laced wrap, Elk tip overlays, clear glass on the belly with "carmelized boo and edges"
African Ebony Riser
Inscription will include my name then centered underneath "Wapiti"...is the bows name.
Im still thinking of te Silver Elk inlay....
Ive killed bull elk with my compound...but thats over now...this I want to be my Wapiti collector!!
Hey Robin Hood longbowmen.......Looking at my HH Robin Hood, i noticed when its unstrung that if I hold it up and look down the length it really looks as though both limbs cant in toward the shelf, not twisting but maybe 1-2 degrees in toward the right hand shelf if looked straight down from either limb tip along the back of the bow. Bow needs to be UNSTRUNG to see deflection.
Is that normal? part of the design of the deflex string follow bows?
all HH Robin Hooders please take a look and see if you see what Im seeing.
Thanks
Patrick
Got an email from Vince at Mohawk bows this week saying my bow order isn't too far from getting started: 62 inch, 1 pc, cocobolo riser, actionboo core with red elm veneers, 53#@27". Can't wait to get it and compare it with the Big 5 I bought from Rob a month or two back!!
Joe
Joe-
I have a Mohawk Classic that I really like to shoot. I had it built with a myrtle dished grip, black glass on the back and white on the belly. It is a super shooting bow, and it looks like a classic D-shaped bow. I'm sure that your going to love it.
I like shooting my Hill and Mohawk
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/135_2219.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/135_2218.jpg)
I was out chasing turkeys this weekend and missed the postman on Saturday I have a Big 5 sitting at the post office waiting for me. :bigsmyl: .....stabow
STABOW-----That Big Five is made to hunt Out West. . . to shoot elk and mule deer and big black bear and. . . well, who knows what else.
You live Back East.
Guess you have an adventure or two ahead of you.
Welcome to the west Man, welcome to the west. . .
come home little sheba, come home ... :(
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/hhb51-1.jpg)
The pic doesn't do justice to the bamboo limbs Rob-beautiful to look at in person!!
Joe :clapper: :archer2:
caramelized boo, string follow, paduak riser!
come home little sheba! :pray:
Rob...
Mate ... a regretful sale mayhaps ?
Gee Rob, if you missed her that much, you should have told me. :)
She'll be back in your hands by the weekend.
Guys is a dual shelf HH cut less to center?
RDS, does the "carmelizing" have any effect on the performance or feel in the draw cycle of the Bows?...you said it makes it act stiffer? also does anyone know what the name is or any clue as to the "special imported Howard Hill only bamboo", and really is the carmelizing done at the shop or is it a different boo used out of country for this.
Thanks
Patrick
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
RDS, does the "carmelizing" have any effect on the performance or feel in the draw cycle of the Bows?...you said it makes it act stiffer?
a very good question. 'caramelizing' is heat tempering, where the boo is either cooked (baked or roasted) or flamed (yup, hit with a direct torch flame). the natural grass resins (yes, bamboo is a grass) liquefy and act sorta like a glue. much of the inherent water dissipates as steam. i've done this to quite a bit of natural bamboo, flamed it with a torch. this changes the boo's molecular structure and makes it much stronger and stiffer, and probably more durable.
as to what all this means to a longbow i'm not totally sure at all. i do know that tempered boo just looks nicer. :)
also does anyone know what the name is or any clue as to the "special imported Howard Hill only bamboo", and really is the carmelizing done at the shop or is it a different boo used out of country for this.
dunno, worth a call to craig or jason if it matters.
Thanks
Patrick
I loaded up the tent and headed out Friday afternoon for a weekend of camping and shooting in Idaho's high desert wild horse Indian country.
It rained and hailed and snowed and thundered and the lightning flew, but I had a blast, and even managed to take a nice close-up photo of one of the local critters. I realize there is not a Hill bow in this photo, but I thought it might get a bit dicey if I tried to lay my bow down next to this guy. He wasn't real happy with me.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/rattlesnake_lowres.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
I loaded up the tent and headed out Friday afternoon for a weekend of camping and shooting in Idaho's high desert wild horse Indian country.
It rained and hailed and snowed and thundered and the lightning flew, but I had a blast, and even managed to take a nice close-up photo of one of the local critters. I realize there is not a Hill bow in this photo, but I thought it might get a bit dicey if I tried to lay my bow down next to this guy. He wasn't real happy with me.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/rattlesnake_lowres.jpg)
ooooo, dat would look nice on my tembo! :D
MT, It's been awhile since I read "Hunting the Hard Way" but I think after much trial and error Howard determined Tonkin Cane bamboo was best for his bows and I believe
Craig still uses it
Patrick-
When I bought my Hill back in December, Jason told me that the bamboo was carmelized at the factory.
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/fam028.jpg)
G'day Rik and other Americans: I hope you don't mind me asking this question here, but seeing that snake reminded me. I'm nearly halfway through a cool film called "Lonesome Dove", and a fellow got attacked by a mob of water moccasin snakes. Is this for real, or is Hollywood just having a lend of me? I reckon your snakes are more scary than ours, by the way. They have bigger mouths, and seem crankier. Cheers, Ben
HollyWood! But they can be nasty.
You got the deadliest snakes in the world Ben.
Lonsome Dove is a classic,Love that show.
Chuck
In the book that came with my Robin Hood its stated that only Howard Hill had the rights to import this special bamboo that he found to be the best for bows from Japan....
I did ask Craig about the Bamboo "carmelizing" and he just said there was NO negative effects on the bamboo when its done as far as shootability or performance, or longevity. He didnt mention any different type of Bamboo or where its done....
Ben, I remember when Bill Baker and Brad Kane came over from Australia to hunt elk with Doug Chase and I. They were concerned about rattle snakes, and I could tell they had more fear of them than their local snakes, many of which are the deadliest on earth. The thing about our snakes over here is, even though they have long, wicked fangs, if they bite you, you will more than likely recover.
If a brown snake or Taipan bites you, I think you are in dire danger of tipping over for good. (Ben, if you are a day or so from the nearest hospital in the Outback and get tagged by a Taipan, what kind of odds does a guy have would you guess? Not that I want to give it a try, I am just curious.)
The best thing about rattle snakes is that they warn you before they strike (unless you step on them). Your Aussie snakes don't give you any warning before they strike. That's just plain unfair.
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
...I did ask Craig about the Bamboo "carmelizing" and he just said there was NO negative effects on the bamboo when its done as far as shootability or performance, or longevity. ....
i dunno what craig/howard mean by 'tempering' the bamboo.
i've heated bamboo in an oven to dry it out and this stiffens it up considerably but there is little to no change to the color of the outer layer. the whole idea of this is drop the moisture content which greatly decreases the flex and increases the stiffness and durability.
i've *flamed* bamboo with a propane torch and that *drastically* changes the outer color to anything from a light tan to dark amber (caramel) to nearly black. this REALLY stiffens up the bamboo and makes it much more durable. there's almost a plastic-like quality to the outer skin as the melted resins cool down. you can see the inner pith changes to a harder and more crystalized form.
They don't call'em the "Fierce Snake" for nothing, may be "timid" compared to a King Cobra, but I can think of a least 30 better ways to die than at the end of his bite. Not to mention the Brown snake. I'll take my chances with our Coral Snake anyday over those slugs.
I am laughing at my good Northen mate's concern . He lives in close proximity to
A. water Buffalo
B. crocodiles
C. some of the deadliest snakes known to man
D. Mosquitoes that are so big the locals use deceased mosquito wings as sunshades at local football matches
And across this continent we have
1. Blue ringed Octopus
2. Irukandji
3. Funnel Web Spider
4. King Brown snakes
5. Taipan's
6. Drop Bears
7. Tiger Snake
8. Box Jellyfish
Ben , when eventually You and I go over to the USA hunting elk with Rik [ Yep, I just invited us !!! :smileystooges: ] we can regale the locals tales of what "real" dangerous snakes are ... not those sissy thing that shake small tambourines before attacking ...
Then we'll go down and play "Watch the 175gn Hex head fly" as the water moccasins attack en masse ...
Even their Grizzly's are kinda cuddly ... not like our ferocious Koala's ..... :saywhat:
Northern Ben and Southern Ben,
If you two make it to Idaho, I will invite myself into Rik's camp - he won't mind. He is a good natured feller! Me and Nate can car pool. Bending D bows in the mountains - sweeeet!
Man I love this thread!!!! 2hours 45 minutes.....still not close to reading it all!!!
Rik,
when you take a photo of those bad boys, you're supposed to have them skewered on an arrow....then it's safe to lay your bow next to them.... :thumbsup:
I can sense that you are getting the bear hunting bug real bad....
Ahhh, I sense adventure afoot. . . two Hill-Packin' Aussies set loose with some crazy Idaho Ridge Runners totin' Hill bows and primo timber arrows.
The only place that could possibly survive an assault like that would have to have the perfect ratio of:
1. Lots of elk, and
2. A high bull-to-cow ratio, AND
3. A fair number of mule deer and bear milling about.
Some Gem State minds will have to come together to "cipher" that one out.
P.S. Nate------you sensed it alright. Bear season is here, yet Old Man Winter laid down yet another layer of snow in the basin this weekend, on top of 140% of normal snow pack. My fingers are itchy, your's too I'm bettin'. If the weather doesn't break soon, I'll be down to hunting mice.
Patrick-
I remember Dick Wrightman posting pics of the bamboo shipping crates from Japan at Howard Hill Archery.
The first pic is a empty shipping crate, and the second pic is a crate of the bamboo in the shop.
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/crates2.jpg)
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/shopview2.jpg)
Actually, that whole visit to Hill Archery is still up on my web site, in the Howard Hill Bows section.
http://www.dickwightman.com/howardhill/hillarcheryvisit/hillvisit007.html
incidentally, if you go looking for the my site without a link, the last name is Wightman... as in dickwightman.com It's pretty common for folks to put an "r" in there, but it won't get you to the site.
Thanks, fellows! Imagine shooting rattlers all day long - that'd be a hoot! Yeah, I don't like the chances of making it out after a bite from a taipan or brown, but thankfully they are rare-ish. However, I have stepped over enough barefoot whilst stalking to have promised my wife to wear boots at all times these days. Also, to be safe, I carry an EPIRB and a satphone in my pack, as well as a first aid kit. I once got stung by a red-bellied black snake at teachers' college, incidentally whilst being typically younger-and-stupider and trying to show the blighter's fangs to a crowd of American students - it really does hurt, but the red-bellied black is a girly snake.
Taking my Hill to B'more this weekend to see what arrow it likes and maybe get some pics. Picked it up a month ago and haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, cant wait!!!
Rik,
this year I'm thinking the bear hunting will be like coastal Alaska....rain, rain, rain, then more rain.....
I'm going one step further in my no-camo mindset....this year I'm hunting with an all white glass bow for everything, appropriately named "Granpa" for my own granpa who encouraged me in bowmaking so many years ago...
How many Hill-totin', backquiver fillin', wood arrow shootin' guys are out there, reading these posts who decided to go all out this year and do the no-camo thing? just plaids, earth-tones and pretty bows.....
there ought to be serious thought of a traveling award, given out semi-yearly to the hunter with the best hunting story (successful with game or not) using no camo except for plaid clothes, longbow, backquiver, etc...ala Hill, Swinehart, and Schulz......come on guys, I know there are some of you out there that are hunting this way....
Nate I am willing to take up that challenge.
I should be able to it as long as I can wear plain carharts.
I don't own any plaid pants and I'd rather spend my money on bows or arrows...lol
God bless,Mudd
Mudd,
i'm thinking blue jeans or brown duck.....flannel shirts and vests, etc....you know the look......shic redneck... :)
I very seldom use camo anymore,I just like wool for all of its qualitys.the type of hunting I do ,mostly spot and stalk nothing beats wool.
The only camo that I use is my Bug-Tamer. In Florida, you really need to wear the bug suit during archery season.
Darren
Earth Tones? Did someone mention Earth Tones?
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Late_Season_Glassing.jpg)
Rik,
you crack me up :biglaugh:
whenever I see your hunting photos, I think G.I. Joe.....
i had to come home and get my trailer, glad to see you guys are still at it.
About bows with white glass. Back in 1972, I built two string follows with white glass, the kind with the grid on the inside so it could be glued with Urac. I did not intend on making them string follow, that is what happens when you glue tapered lams on a flat handle. My favorite was 85 pounds at 26 inches, it was the most successful hunting bow I had other than my Schulz. I could not tell that the color of the glass made any difference to the animals I shot with it, including turkeys.
Nate ... that sounds like a good challenge !!!
@Rik ..... hahaha
I'm in for the no camo challenge, I know I'll be toting a Hill!
God Bless
Pete
Nate-
I really like the look of white glass on the belly of a bow, I had it put on my Mohawk Classic. Let's see that all white Hill?
BTW- I don't think that I will find a plaid BugTamer, but I do wear jeans and plaid underneath. I hope that counts.
Darren
This is such a great thread because the Hill bow, Hill style of shooting, and the Hill legacy has brought us together. Over the past several hundred topics, we discussed woods, shooting styles, grips, string material, snakes, camo or no camo, etc. Many, many subjects have been discussed that could be seperate topics on the Powwow, but we chose to do it with a American Longbow.
I've mentioned this before but I'll do it again, sometimes this is the only thread that I check.
Darren
HH Wesley 66" 46@28,string follow, Brown glass limb tip wedges, straight grip.
Sweet!
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01468.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01467.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01466.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01465.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01464.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01463.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01462.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01461.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Nice Mudd !
Doesn't get any more classic looking than that . Ya gonna go chase some hogs with it ?
sweet bow mudd,
and very sweet shooting form I might add :thumbsup:
Nice bow Mudd. Was curious about what brown glass would look like. Very nice.
Roy,Every time I turn around,Which takes some time now,your shooting a new bow ! Hill-A- Holics Unite,Besides rehab is for quitters!LOL
That is one nice looking bow,something about brown glass,reminicent of days gone by,Beautiful.
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
Mudd,
i'm thinking blue jeans or brown duck.....flannel shirts and vests, etc....you know the look......shic redneck... :)
I'm in for the challenge...."shic redneck" is me on any given day. But I'll need to re-paint my wooden shoes to look like rocks.
Still am not sure about the white bow but Spanky's "White Dragon" is a pretty one! To hunt with white would be the big stretch for me.
Sweet looking bow Mudd! I like my Hills from 64" to 68" as well!
Mudd-
Is that riser cocbola or bocote?
Darren
Roy:
Glad to see you enjoying the bow.
Take care,
Jay
I am at that Jay.
Thank you!
God bless,Mudd
I have a pair of white wooden shoes, if they survive the tulip festival, that's right Tony we are a bunch of Dutchmen in this town.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=skU-jBFzXl0&feature=related
But I no longer have a white glassed bow. Nate, why don't you build me a white glassed bow, so I can take the white glass challenge. Just tell me where to send the check.
I am in for the no camo challenge. Planning on it for turkeys next week.
Paven, don't ever do that again.(please)
That dude creeps me out.
I thought it was going to be some white bows or wood shoes.
sorry about that, I fixed it. Even worse, I cannot find my white wooden shoes.
QuoteOriginally posted by pavan:
sorry about that, I fixed it. Even worse, I cannot find my white wooden shoes.
Now that IS a bad situation! LOL
How on earth will you do your Klompen Dance without those shoes? And now, you will not be able to walk on water...it's a tragedy!
QuoteOriginally posted by longbowben:
Im ordering a new Wesley special today 66" 58@28 Now im going to have to tell the wife. :knothead:
So......did you ever tell her?
"little sheba" done come home :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/sheba.jpg)
Rob I am jealous!!...lol
Sheba is a fine looking bow, makes a striking pose.
God bless,Mudd
PS: Wait until you folks see what Steve sent me. It sure is pretty and it'll be put to good use shooting my Hill bows.
My wall looks empty without her, Rob. Try and hang on to it this time! :D
:thumbsup:
Thanks to Steve I will be shooting my Hills with a little more style.
Thanks Steve I love the arm guard.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Favorites/DSC01470.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Favorites/DSC01469.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Cool!
A Mudd bracer!
Very nice Steve - looks like it is well-built and a dandy addition to Roy's arm.
Roy,Just like the note said.i'm glad you like it my friend.
Back to the white glass issue, in my HH collection I have one
bow with brown back and white belly it has vary classic look, I was concerned with hunting with it but in the woods it blended in just fine. It's an interesting configuration 68"
55# @ 28, grip is leather lacing wraped all bamboo 150 laminations 6x25
When I hunt the late Idaho mule deer season in the snow, I wear all white clothes, a white hat, white face paint, and even cover my backpack with white. The only dark things are my boots, my binoculars, my bow, and my eyes. I've always thought an all-white bow would be perfect for the late hunt.
Even during the elk season, if you look around and kind of squint your eyes, lots of the branches and small saplings look almost white.
Your right about many things in the woods being white or shiny....
another thing....how many of us hunt with the bow in the upright position as we walk into the sun?....never I hope. the bow is carried in a horizontal position mostly, and the curve of the limbs reflects any light upwards, and if the sun is at our back, as it should be, the reflection would be in our faces, not the game's eyes. Therefore, any reflection from the white glass to the animal would be small glints, akin to the sun glinting of dew-covered aspen leaves shimmering in the breeze......
Maybe white glass is camo....! I may have to rethink this!... :)
I have not seen a white bow with a satin finish, but I have a feeling that combination would be a real looker!
Show us a white bow Nate.
I think Spanky has put his "White dragon" on here before but my memory isn't what it used to be..lol
Thanks!
God bless,Mudd
I think white is a killer color but never thought about taking it to the woods. I do carry my bows horizontal arc down...and they have all had satin finish.
A white belly may be a tad risky depending where you are hiding but I can't help from thinking an all-white bow would be a flag....guess I have a paradigm to deal with.
white glass on a hill style longbow? no way, not my cup of tea ... yuk. now black or chocolate glass, dat's nice. ;)
While we are on the topic of glass, is there any measurable data to back up the rumor than brown and white glass perform better than black and clear glass?
Hey, Rob... my old memory is not to be trusted, but didn't I buy a white 30# Wesley from you years ago? Leastwise, I think it was you... Yeah, white, i think that's right.
Just got word my Robin Hood should be on the way. Will post pics when I get it.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
Hey, Rob... my old memory is not to be trusted, but didn't I buy a white 30# Wesley from you years ago? Leastwise, I think it was you... Yeah, white, i think that's right.
dude, you definitely got the wrong rob.
Actually "Green" out-performs all other colors!!!(LOL!)
Green, now there's a cool color for a Hill bow!
actually, I've drooled over white glass bows since I first saw photos of Hill and Swinehart posing beside their 'kills' with their white bows...of course they were such good shots, maybe they shot game from a long ways away....lol.
I've waxed and polished my bows for so long, for hunting, that I've gotten used to a shiny bow. I started doing it over 20 years ago, as a dare to my fellow hunting pards who thought you needed to be full camo to hunt....so I've proven it to myself that I can still kill game with a shiny bow...and a shiny clear glass over bamboo isn't too much darker than an amber/white bow...
I love proving to the camo crowd that you can shoot game without it and have pretty bows too...
to each their own, and that sure is a good thing.
for colored glass, it's no secret i like black and chocolate.
but if the veneer is sweet, then clear is dear and not queer ... :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tembo4.jpg)
Rob,
And you're a poet and we all know it!(LOL!)
Falconview, Hows about some more info on that bow with 150 laminations. That has me curious. I would love to see some pics and or a description.
Thank you.
Chuck
P.S. I just bought some white glass from a fellow ganger. Maybe I need to build a white bow eh?
having grown up with archery in the 50's and 60's, white glass is *strictly* set aside for TARGET RECURVES! :D
The "150 lams" and that's the name Craig gave it has
a straight maple grip wraped with brown leather lacing, brown glass back and white belly no tip overlays or inlays. The bamboo consists of six layers done thick, thin, thick, thin etc. Than taperd all even by the tips, Each layer starts at 25 laminations wide before shaping, you can count 12 layers at the tips which are 1/2 or less than the widest part of the limbs
This is a smooth fast Hill and the only one I know of.
a bundle grass
Steve
after having owned and shot more hills than i have fingers and toes, i find the three boo lam versions just have a "sweeter" overall feel and they are my faves. yep, the good ol' grandma tembo.
Rob, Have you noticed any real differences between your string follow Hill compared to the backset Hills?.......and congrats on gettin yer bow back
for me, i've had two of craig's string follow hills and they feel more stable, steady, less hand shock (if hand shock was noticeable or an issue) than his straight or backset limbs. don't notice any less performance, either.
re "150 lams", that is definitely the description I got with that light Hill I thought maybe I had gotten from Rob. Like I said, faulty memory. That had to be back at least in 2006...
I reckon White glass is cool ... But wouyld I have it on my bows ?
Nah .....
Coloured glass , particularly brown is one of my favourite combo's on a bow .
The HH bug got me too. I got my cheetah a few weeks ago, and i'm already plotting out the next one i want to order. Can you get a silver hog inlay? I still haven't shot one but i do love pork.
Sean,
if you've got one and thinking of another, you're doomed man....a long, long, slow sickness from which there's no cure. you might think you can take an occasional new bow pill to help recover, but that just makes everything worse...
He should have learned that from his old man, #4 will be here next week.
and I'm very jealous of number four. I'm thinking either a redman or half breed. I would like to try the locater grip before i make another purchase.
Nate is very correct... no known cure.. all you can do is add another bow from time to time...lol
I am working toward going cold turkey... someday..lol
God bless,Mudd
Rob,
JFYI I love the handle on that Big 5 you sold me. Did you order that special or is it the normal shape?
Joe
QuoteOriginally posted by Joe Subler:
Rob,
JFYI I love the handle on that Big 5 you sold me. Did you order that special or is it the normal shape?
Joe
i ordered that, it's craig new and vastly improved locator handle that really helps those of us using a single point of pressure grip and not the typical hill grip of death. :D
I'm going to try the whole excess thing, like smoking a carton of cigarettes to make the thought smoking one more sound terrible, I'm just gonna keep buying until i get tired of buying :p
Sorry Sean I tried that and it doesn't work but I do have a lot of cool bows :bigsmyl: Since this thread started I got a Halfbreed, a Wesley, a Robin Hood, a Crocodile and I am thinking a call to Craig for a big five is in order.
I can only wish that I could tell you guys what's on my radar...lol
That will keep you thinking...lol
I've worked hard at this plan... now I just need the patience to see it through.
God bless,Mudd
PS: Don't ask, I won't tell...lol
Sean,
About "North."
You've got it about 90 percent correct----if you like wild places.
Add in Australia----due south west to the extreme----the other 10 percent of WILD, and you've got it just right. Well, maybe 50 percent, judging by the size of the place.
Not that I'm biased of course. I just like wild places.
"Not that I'm biased of course. I just like wild places"
I hear ya Brother !
As far as the sickness goes, I can tell you the outcome... When you reach the point you can't buy more (I had between 30 and 40!) you start trying to learn to build them! I haven't got a clue to a cure for that! :)
Come on Mudd,Just shoot me a PM, I won't tell. I promise.
Rik, I am not partial to any one direction,I like em all,as long as an adventure can be had in a wild place. AUS,has been a dream for a LONG time.
Dick, YUP!
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
I can only wish that I could tell you guys what's on my radar...lol
That will keep you thinking...lol
I've worked hard at this plan... now I just need the patience to see it through.
God bless,Mudd
PS: Don't ask, I won't tell...lol
"The man with a plan" I have a sneakin' suspicion :saywhat:
I would Chuck but funds are low right now so I wouldn't be able to afford to send my hit squad after you found it out...lol
:archer:
Over the years, I have bought and sold many bows, and through my journey, I have stuck with the Hill grip because it has given me the best fit for my shoot style.
I really enjoy the classic look and feel of my Hill bow and Mohawk bow, yet I also like my 21st Century for it's accuracy and ease of shooting. The difference in the bows are like having a Classic convertible car, and a Modern high performance car in your garage. Sometimes one will want to take the top down and cruise, and other times one will want to ride in the more sleek arrow dynamic and modern suspension of the newer car.
I get the same impulse all the time to buy another bow, I used to say, I need a back up bow, the same weight and length. Know, I say when this one breaks, I'll buy another bow. I even used to think about what a new bow would look like, and shoot like if it had a different combination of woods and glass color. I guess you can say that I was always looking for the best bow combination, instead of just sticking with one bow.
The one thing that I have been doing different to control my bow buying addiction is focusing on arrow building and perfect arrow flight. It's been much cheaper to buy and build arrows than buying bows.
My collection of bows are down to only 4, and they all have a Hill grip.
Howard Hill Big Five
Mohawk Classic
Saxon Mongoose
21st Century Edge
Darren
Darren
I agree with Dick, once you stop buying you have to start building. Nothing beats that new bow feeling. New car, house comes close but then you realize how much further you are in debt.. The new bow feeling is the best.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
As far as the sickness goes, I can tell you the outcome... When you reach the point you can't buy more (I had between 30 and 40!) you start trying to learn to build them! I haven't got a clue to a cure for that! :)
That's boat I'm in. I don't own a Hill bow, but I've built a few "Hill Styles". I want an actual Hill, but then again I'd feel a little like I'm cheating on myself for shooting one that I didn't build. Such are the ponderings that keep one awake at night.....
. . . how will you know how to build one, if you've never owned one to study. . . and shoot?
I would love to build my own but where to start? Last year we purchased some of the equipment to start making our own bows but lack power in the garage to hook everything up.
Sean, you need an Electrician? :D
Eric
or really long extension cord :p
Hey guys I just bought a doz of the HH broadheads 160 grain with the 40 grain adaptor and some Ferul tite hot glue....cant wait to shoot them, just wondering if you guys have used them with your HH bows and if so your experiences with them, also what technique and tool did you use for sharpening.
Thanks Much,
Patrick
Also , just curious, who out there has a Carbon HH, and what have you noticed about the carbon? does it add speed, or just stability or what is the point of it?
thanks
I bought a BLACK WOLF HH a few years ago. It was the only HH that I have owned that I put something on the string for noise(I think that carbon bows have a metalic sound to them), it was "stiffer" than the other HH I had with the same specs. It was faster to the naked eye.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowits:
I bought a BLACK WOLF HH a few years ago. It was the only HH that I have owned that I put something on the string for noise(I think that carbon bows have a metalic sound to them), it was "stiffer" than the other HH I had with the same specs. It was faster to the naked eye.
I agree 100%, because several years ago I bought two identical bows, the only difference was one had carbon limbs. The carbon limbed bow was stiffer to draw than the all bamboo limbed bow, but the carbon limb was a tad bit faster.
Darren
Don't know about the faster, but the two I got when Craig first started offering them were definitely stiffer to draw. I was enthusiastic at first, but aside from the stiffness, came to feel it just wasn't "right". The Hill is, to me, the best example currently of a real traditional bow. Trying to modernize or improve it just doesn't sit well. Plenty of folks doing that to plenty of other bows. I like having one that is an honest touchback to the origins, so that we can see what we can do with the same tools they had to work with.
Dick,You are so right.I gave my new Cheetah a work out today and after every shot I loved it more.I shot better with that than anything in my arsenal.It just clicked.I shot two of my highly stressed RD longbows,there going to be on the block shortly.The simplicity,romance,history ,whatever it just shot like a champ and was pure pleasure.
Getting Back At It
Got back into the shop today for the purpose I'm supposed to be there... first time in over a month. Been busy with other activities and other types of projects. Got a friend who wants a special bow, but I have to order some particular lams he wants, so I decided to start on a bow i've been wanting for myself. As seems to happen a lot with me, the wood talked to me and changed my plans. I had planned an all maple bow with birdeye back, quilted belly and tiger riser. However, when I got the rough lams sawn and laid out with the riser block, it didn't look right at all. Too busy, the grains fought instead of complimenting each other.
So, what to do? What changes to make? Finally decided on birdeye both back and belly, tapered boo core and a bubinga riser. Got the lams and a power lam cut and the riser shaped and should be able to do the layup tomorrow after a bit of organizing for the first effort in my new glue up room. Hopefully, it will be as pretty as i hope.... Still haven't decided whether shelf or no shelf. I suppose the wood will tell me...
More when it's done.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
Don't know about the faster, but the two I got when Craig first started offering them were definitely stiffer to draw. I was enthusiastic at first, but aside from the stiffness, came to feel it just wasn't "right". The Hill is, to me, the best example currently of a real traditional bow. Trying to modernize or improve it just doesn't sit well. Plenty of folks doing that to plenty of other bows. I like having one that is an honest touchback to the origins, so that we can see what we can do with the same tools they had to work with.
Dick, I couldn't say it any better than you did!
:notworthy:
and...as Mudd wouild say: "It ain't broke so don't fix it"
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01474.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01473.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01472.jpg)
more to follow..........
PS: Tony has called me a "Bo-Ho"...imagine that....lol
New-to-me HH Wesley 66" 57@28 Yew and boo under clear glass.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01481.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01480.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01479.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01478.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01477.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01476.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Bows%20for%20sale/DSC01475.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
PS: the arrows I'm shooting are over 800 grains and 31&1/16th BOP.
Mudd!
Another nice 66"er
A pretty rascal for sure... :thumbsup:
(not you...the bow) :p
Haha! A "boho" does not need to be pretty....just rich...or heavily under the spell of this thread,
Very nice Mudd. Feel the bug biting at me again.
Mudd, Glad you like it, good luck with it. She shoots good and with plenty of authority.
Mudd that is another beauty! I think you need to take a "family" picture of your collection to give a budding hill-ohallic something to aspire towards :notworthy: :notworthy: :biglaugh:
I have been called a lot of things over my 60 plus years but this is a 1st for me... rich!!!!
Now that was about as "rich" as it gets in my book...lol
I will admit to being under some mysterious disease like influence that sounds a lot like "HowardHillitis"....lol
God bless,Mudd
Roy,How do you like 66" compared to 68 and 70.I was thinking for my next to go to 68 but after shooting my 66 I think I will just stay with the 66,just love the way it shoots.
i wish i could shoot a 66" hill, or even a 68" - for a 29" draw it takes 70" ntn to smooth out the pull for me.
By the way ,love that new Bow,and that armgaurd is to kill for ! LOL
Mudd-
Congrats, On the Wesley, love the yew!
Darren
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Clandinin:
Roy,How do you like 66" compared to 68 and 70.I was thinking for my next to go to 68 but after shooting my 66 I think I will just stay with the 66,just love the way it shoots.
Hi Steve!
What is your draw length? I know Roy pulls 27.5" and that is nice for him. I have the same draw length and, according to Craig, he would recommend either a 66 or 68 depending on if I wanted more smoothness or more performance.
You can also opt for a 67" which is what I would do. Maybe Roy has a 68"er for you to play with...
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Clandinin:
By the way ,love that new Bow,and that armgaurd is to kill for ! LOL
That is quite a dandy arm guard isn't it!
A great guy made it for me. I can't thank him enough either as I love it.
I think I'm starting to lean more toward 66"ers but love shooting them all.
God bless, Mudd
PS: Steve, with my funds these days I couldn't afford the shipping but if you want to borrow one and paid to get it there I have a loaner for you.
Tony,I draw exactly 27.5,Same as roy.I'm loving this string follow Cheetah at 66,but like Rob said I notice 68 being a little smoother.
Steve, then you are a good candidate for either (or both) Shoot what feels best to you. Roy is having a blast with the shorter bows and can shoot 'em straight.
Do you also have a 68?
Looks like Roy has a loaner for you buddy...
Tony,I have a 68" chekmate Golden hawk,3 lams of Yew with clear glass with a small amount of backset like old hills.theres a little more handshock but it still shoots great,but I do like the Hill better.I can see the future with another Hill.I really want to Elk hunt this year with a Hill.
Years ago I shot a HH Big Five and it seams completely differant than the Hills of today.I really can't believe the accuracy I was getting yesterday with my Cheetah,I don't normally shoot that good,its like Mudd was in my soul!
Hey Mudd I used to own that Wesley...I think that is the leather I put on her too! Nice bow and a good shooter...congrats!
You guys don't know what your missing until you have a Hill with a white glass belly, especially with the antique finish that Nate puts on it...simply beautiful! It doesn't get more Hill traditional for glass bows than this! :thumbsup:
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/WhiteDragon003.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/WhiteDragon002.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/WhiteDragon004.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/WhiteDragon005.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/WhiteDragon008.jpg)
(http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj125/kbneal2002/SHTrio001.jpg)
Guys, I couldn't stand it for one more day, I had to try to get up into good bear country, despite having 140 percent of normal snowpack. A guy can only sit around twiddling his thumbs for so long.
So, I loaded up the truck, grabbed my take-down Sunset Hill and a quiver of arrows, and of I went.
Ha! That didn't last long. About 40 seconds off the pavement and I hit the first big snow drift. I slipped into four-wheel-drive mode and continued up the mountain.
Well, suffice it to say, about eight or nine snow drifts later I admitted defeat. A guy would need a snowmobile to get into the good bear country right now.
So, I backed up and backed up and backed up down the narrow loggng road until I could find a place to turn the truck around, and then I parked and strung up the longbow for some stump shooting right below snow level. Actually, it was mostly "pine cone shooting," and it was great day to be afield.
-----The pine cones on that mountain are now deathly afraid of Douglas Fir arrows.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/longbow_License_Plate.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/stump_shooting.jpg)
I even managed to capture a photograph of a 78-pound take-down Sunset Hill longbow in it's native habitat:
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/longbow_and_Quiver.jpg)
love yer attitude and pics, rik! :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
love yer attitude and pics, rik! :thumbsup:
X's two Rik!
God bless,Mudd
PS: Spanky so now I know where it's Mojo comes from...lol
I might consider a white bellied bow someday. I never saw one that was to be used for hunting before yours. All I had ever seen that had white glass were as Rob says for target shooting.
Love the pics Rik...glad to see ya with some leather on your back for a change! :thumbsup:
I had a carbon Tembo and it was one of my favorites! It did feel a couple of pounds heavier than it's stated weight, but still smooth, and had a different sound (still very quiet though), but it was noticeably faster than the Wesley I had at the time that was one pound heavier in weight. It also required an arrow 5 lbs. heavier in spine with the same weight head. The biggest difference though was the non-existent handshock...it honestly felt like an R/D bow! Needless to say I was very impressed.
Mudd, a lot of Howard's bows had white belly glass, and he built many for other people with white as well. As for hunting, if the game is seeing the white belly, your shooting in the wrong direction! :biglaugh:
Rik,I thought you were cutting back in weight.Those double doses of wheaties are doing you fine.
Everytime Spanky posts new pics I feel my wallet twitch,Thanks Bud!lol
Steve I thought I was cutting back in weight also but lately I've been shooting heavier wt bows without any ill effects other than just getting tired faster than with the lighter draw weights.
God bless,Mudd
PS: I don't intend to shoot a heavy wt bow just because I can. I would rather be able to shoot for a longer time...lol
Sometimes I don't even make sense to myself...lol
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Guys, I couldn't stand it for one more day, I had to try to get up into good bear country, despite having 140 percent of normal snowpack. A guy can only sit around twiddling his thumbs for so long.
So, I loaded up the truck, grabbed my take-down Sunset Hill and a quiver of arrows, and of I went.
Ha! That didn't last long. About 40 seconds off the pavement and I hit the first big snow drift. I slipped into four-wheel-drive mode and continued up the mountain.
Well, suffice it to say, about eight or nine snow drifts later I admitted defeat. A guy would need a snowmobile to get into the good bear country right now.
So, I backed up and backed up and backed up down the narrow loggng road until I could find a place to turn the truck around, and then I parked and strung up the longbow for some stump shooting right below snow level. Actually, it was mostly "pine cone shooting," and it was great day to be afield.
-----The pine cones on that mountain are now deathly afraid of Douglas Fir arrows.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/longbow_License_Plate.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/stump_shooting.jpg)
I even managed to capture a photograph of a 78-pound take-down Sunset Hill longbow in it's native habitat:
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/longbow_and_Quiver.jpg)
Rik; Did you get a new truck? Oh, and who is the guy in the second picture? Know it isn't you because of all the grey hair-you ain't old enough to have grey hair. :biglaugh:
There's snow in that picture, by the looks of it, and you are in a tee-shirt! You are one tough bloke, Rik! You are the polar opposite of some of the natives here, who, on a 40 degrees Celcius day (well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, I think), wear a jacket and a beanie.
Spanky, I really hated to trade that Wesley off but was forced to drop at least 10#'s off my drawing weight and I know Craig could not take that much weight off the bow. I did get a good trade from Mudd and am real happy with it. Roger
I have a friend with a 30" draw who wants me to build him a longbow. If he'll spring for an extra piece of glass, I'm toying with the idea of building him a 74" Hill style so he can really experience smooth. The idea won't get out of my head. I"m going to have three guys, including him, here tomorrow and we will be talking it over. It'll take a new straight form, no big problem, and a new backing setup for glue up, but it could be handy. I think it would take a 74" Hill to let a real long draw guy feel like the rest of us do with 66" or 68". It'd be fun to take a long one to a shoot and hunt out the long draw guys to see what they think. Problem is most would want more weight than I am comfortable building to. Fortunately, David wants 35@28, which I can do and would put him where he wants to be if I tiller it on out. I feel the same way about real long draw guys as I do about lefties... they get short changed in the Hill arena. One of the reasons I like to turn out the occasional shelfless bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Kleinig:
There's snow in that picture, by the looks of it, and you are in a tee-shirt! You are one tough bloke, Rik! You are the polar opposite of some of the natives here, who, on a 40 degrees Celcius day (well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit, I think), wear a jacket and a beanie.
Ben, that is how it is done in Idaho :archer:
Actually, the temp was in the upper 70s today but may have been a little cooler up in the mountains. Snow on the ground is not unusual this time of year. Some areas will not be accessible until late June. "Cabin Fever" makes a guy try, though.
Snow?
What?
Nah Man, that's just residual Winter.
An obvious optical illusion. Winter was over two months ago.
It never snows in Idaho. Especially in May, or June, or July, or August.
---And if you believe that, you will believe that Idaho was not the last of the 50 states to be colonized.
Seems the Idaho weather put a damper on the enthusiasm of Jim Bridger, Osbourne Russell, and the other high-hikin', serious mountain men of the day.
If Daniel Boone had set even one foot in Idaho though, he would have found home. Wild times back then, wild times. . .
(Like to read of the old days? Journal of a Trapper, by Osbourne Russell, might be to your liking).
Now, will someone please send some summer, bear-hunting weather to Idaho?
That is a good book Rik,I found my copy on a logging road on Fritz mountain in Montana.
If I could, I would BRING you some Bear hunting weather(and company).
Good luck when you get to it. Nice looking gear you sport.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
I have a friend with a 30" draw who wants me to build him a longbow. If he'll spring for an extra piece of glass, I'm toying with the idea of building him a 74" Hill style so he can really experience smooth.
***************************
Dick,
Just curious...is your friend a hill shooter?
The reason I ask is that recently I have been practicing the proper "heeling" bow hold technique as I draw. Had my wife take pics of the make-shift "arrow" with lines on it to represent 1/2" increments in draw length.
Bottom line is that my 30" draw turned into a consistent 27.5"....that was pulling approximately 40#. When Nate is able to build my new Sunset Hill it will be targeted for 56# which will probably push my draw length closer to an even 27".
Tony I have a 40@28 Hill here that I will be testing him with. We shall see...
That's another fine looking bow Roy! I too prefer the shorter Hills... With my 28" draw, I love my 64" Wesley! Whatever works... :archer2:
Roger, I totally understand bud...happens to the best of us! I know you hated to let her go, but it couldn't have gone to a better home than with Roy! He'll take good care of her i'm sure. Glad you got a good trade for another Hill to keep the fire burning! Best of luck to ya!
Steve, wallet twitching is but one of the many annoying yet ever present symptoms of the Hill bugs bite. It never seems to go away once it happens either! :D
I've got a 30.5" draw with a Hill and my 69" Halfbreed seems really smooth to me. It really is a fun bow to shoot. A 66" Hill is too short for me, and a 68" is pushing it. I do think my next one will be around 70-72".
I think I have a pretty good technique and shoot a Hill quite well, but there's no way I could go from a 31" draw with my other longbows to a 28" with a Hill. My bow arm would have to have one serious bend in it.
I have a question about the Sunset Hills. They have a shorter riser, correct? I was thinking that the string angle at full draw would be a limiting factor in how short a bow should be. You don't want to get to 90*, do you? How short of a Sunset could I use with a 30.5" draw? I love the Hill-style and would like a shorter bow to use out of a blind. I've been using a 69" Halfbreed, but it's a little long for using out of my blind.
looper-
Send Nate a pm about the your question. I've spoke to Nate before and he has a very precise formula that he uses when building someone a bow. He also will have you send in a trace of your hand to get a perfect fit. Nate's bows a custom to the user, not a one size fits all. I remember having this conversation about hundred posts back.
Good Luck,
Darren
Holy Smokes! I leave for a short bit and we're nearing 3000 posts and nearly 200 pages for this post. WOW! Not even gonna try to catch up.
The subject matter deserves the chatter...lol
God bless, Mudd
PS:Welcome back Tim!
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
I feel the same way about real long draw guys as I do about lefties... they get short changed in the Hill arena.
Being a lefty is the main reason I started building my own Hill style bows. I love my HH Big Five, but it's hard enough to find any kind of longbow out here, and if you shoot lefty, good luck! Thanks for all your help, Captain Dick. Getting ready to lay up another one. I promise I will eventually get pictures up of the first one.
Boy oh boy,
started out with a rough weekend, I've got bear fever real bad, and hills are loaded with snow, but I think I might just snowshoe in to get started with the hunting.....So I went out to shoot some arrows and every arrow was flying like wounded ducks..no good. I got out several bows, about 2 dozen arrows,and nothing shot straight...aaaggghhh!!!
I gave it up, went and put the finishing touches and tiller on a bow, and just forgot about shooting in the wind, rain, etc. You know you sometimes just gotta clear your head.....
Went out this morning before work and concentrated on.....back tension, release, and follow through! Amazing! astounding! arrows flying straight! this brings me to think about Hill going out and shooting arrows "just for form"....not trying to hit stuff, not shooting arrows for fun, but seriously shooting "for form"....
even these easy shooting, casual style Hill style longbows need proper shooting techniques to make the arrows fly straight...and we need reminders about this now and again...
Nate, buddy, you should have called & I could have shown you how to shoot crappy :laughing:
Been working through the same things. Weather isn't doin' us any favors to get out & shoot. Weatherman said we had gusts around 60 mph, yet again.
Rik is seriously getting under my skin....he knows how much I want to go hunting and he's just egging me on with those photos...... :banghead:
Nate,
I hear you on the form and the constant vigile. There are those days that you just have to get away from shooting when everything just seems to not work. I have been focussing on my finger position of the drawing hand and allowing my finger to hook, but without tension.
Watching alot of Howard Hill's videos of him shooting. You can see as he begins his draw he brings his little finger back and then through the draw cycle the thumb points down like cocking a pistol. I have been working on this and I tell you I can really feel the back tension and feel more stable at full draw. The fingers are a hook and I hook pretty deep.
One of the best pieces of guidance you gave me was to put more pressure on the bottom 2 fingers of the bow hand on the grip. That helped a bunch.
Bear hunting would be awesome. Someday I would love to do that. Glad to hear that your focus on form got you back regrouped. If a bear gets after you are you pretty fast running in snowshoes?
Longbows & Short Shots,
Jeff
Nate, this is going to be one challenging year to hunt bears. It's snowing like crazy in the high country today, on top of the existing snow pack that is still 140 percent of normal.
Here is the highway cam image from this morning on the hill I drive over every day to get to work.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Horseshoe_Bend_Hill.jpg)
I feel like just crawling back into my cave and sleeping until mid June, when me MIGHT be able to get into that sweet bear country that is calling our names.
TWO TRACKS ---- that is an absolutely amazing find on a logging road. Methinks you were meant to have that book. Do you remember the part about the 13-point bull elk and the fat running in torrents? I only have to think about that section of the book and I start-----to------get------elk-------fever. Arghhhhh----- I've done it again. I thought about it without realizing I was thinking about it, and now, gulp, I've got elk fever already. 14 weeks and counting. . .Oh this is going to be a long summer------if it ever stops snowing!
Wow, Now here in Texas we need rain badly..
talk about a winter wonderland
Rik,
I'm looking forward to summer...it happens every year around August 14 from noon to two-thirty...don't want to miss it.... :biglaugh:
methinks I'll only be hunting one short quick site this year....concentrate all my efforts on one place, do or die sort of thing....I won't have enough time to get spread out very thin....You take the north end of the valley, I'll take the south end.... ;)
Jeff,
Yeah, these Hill do take a sorta technique, but some things about shooting a bow remain 'constants' no matter what type of bow you shoot. good back tension, steady bow arm, good release and follow through....the basics, but without them the arrows don't do their thing very well....
Someone suggested that I get a group picture of my Hills.
Well here they are with a relative thrown in to boot.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01491.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01485.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Howard%20Hill%20bows/DSC01486.jpg)
Now I have a bow profile question.
I know that Craig offers all 3 different styles, straight, back set, and string follow, as does Miller but how about the other Hill style bows such as Sunset Hills?
God bless,Mudd
Mudd,
The beginnings of a classic collection! Your next one will certainly add some pizazz to the family...
:bigsmyl: :thumbsup:
Form is coming along. Muscles have strengthened a bit to overcome the 13# jump in weight that came with the Hill bow. Arrows have started flying like darts more often than wounded ducks. (Ok, sometimes they're like a blindman's darts.) I'm back to shooting 20-25 yds instead of 15. But the grip just hasn't been feeling right. So this afternoon I marched into the shop, grabbed a file and had at it. I took quite a bit off, and though I may tweak it some more, I want to make the changes slowly and see how they work. Then I came back out to see how it felt. First three arrows at somewhere around 22 paces:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1305672914.jpg)
After that groups were a bit more normal. But I'm going to take it as a sign that the mojo was hidden deeper than I had shaped previously....
Anyone have a picture of the back of a hill in the handle area without a wrap on it? Showing the shape? Maybe Rob has one as he cut 'em in half for a take down?
Nice shooting canopyboy !!
I admire you guys who have the nerve to start taking wood off...lol
I guess I should ask... is it a bow of your building?
That could be a difference if you've been working on it all along.
God bless,Mudd
Partially. It was a blank that I finished a thousand posts back or so... :biglaugh:
I might have more trouble with a new Hill that came all done. But would probably still do it if it wasn't right. A used one I'd attack in a heartbeat. I don't think I've had a bow of any type yet (even Hoyt aluminum riser) that I didn't modify within the first few months to fit my hand a bit better. And of course the ones I make myself are never done....
Beautiful collection Mudd. I love that Half Breed. Is that Bocote in the riser? My next Hill will most likely be a Yew bow. How do you like the Half Breed? Have you ever shot an all yew Redman and compared it to the yew/bamboo HB? My current Hills have bamboo and I find them very smooth. Was curious as to the smoothness of an all yew bow. Thanks.
Since we are talking about blanks I've been considering a Hill blank. Maybe that yew bow is one to consider. Anyway, hey canopyboy how did you find finishing a blank to be? Did you need any special tools? Are the Hill blanks all wood or do they have glass on the belly and or back? I'm just gathering info before I make a decision. Thanks.
The blanks are easy. The instructions call for a couple of files and some sandpaper to prep it for finishing. Then finish. Rob mentioned some easy wipe on finishes too.
They are just like a regular Hill. Lams are the same, with glass front and back. Order any combination and weight, etc that you would for a regular bow from them. You just don't have to specify LH or RH...
Hmm. I might give this a shot. I've seen a few pics of finished blank bows and they look great. I'm fair with my hands, but lack patience :knothead: I would really need to take my time with this project. Thanks for the info.
Mudd, I was one of the ones asking for a group photo. Thank you.... Beautiful collection, thanks.
QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
Hmm. I might give this a shot. I've seen a few pics of finished blank bows and they look great. I'm fair with my hands, but lack patience :knothead: I would really need to take my time with this project. Thanks for the info.
BE AWARE that craig overbuilds *everything* and while his finished bows are 3-6# higher in draw weight, his bow blanks can easily be 10# overweight and yer gonna have a LOTTA sanding to do.
Mikebiz I have 3 H Hill bows, Wesley , Big 5 and a Redman .
The Wesley and Redman are 1# different in weight, the Wesley is a tad faster and the Redman a tad smoother to draw. Like em all and real fond of that Redman .
stik&string Not a problem, thank you for asking.
I needed the motivation to do it.
Mikebiz reading your posts sounds just like talking to Tony Van Dort...lol
He also asks me all kinds of questions that I don't have the 1st clue about how to answer...lol
Except the easy ones...lol
Yes sir the riser wood in the Half Breed is Bacote.
I have owned and all yew Redman but I couldn't compare it to any of my bows as I have slept since I owned it..lol(sorry)
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
BE AWARE that craig overbuilds *everything* and while his finished bows are 3-6# higher in draw weight, his bow blanks can easily be 10# overweight and yer gonna have a LOTTA sanding to do.
Mine was ordered at 55# @ 29". I didn't sand too much and ended up at 62#. Definitely something to think about when making your order. 7 extra pounds was a lot.
So, does anyone have something that shows a standard profile of the handle section iwo of the back? I know a lot of discussion has been given to the shape on the belly side where your palm sits.
I had left mine full on the back and maybe a bit square/wide which was uncomfortable on my last three fingers. I've narrowed it up a bit so the fingers wrap around with a better fit, but I'm wondering what it looks like on a regular Hill.
Nice set of bows Mudd, too bad they are wrong handed. which is your favorite?
I'm curious, do any of you folks with Hills hunt out of tree stands with them? I have ladder stands set up on my property in Mich.'s UP and last year hunted out of one set up in a good sized Cedar with my 68" Tembo. As long as I was mindful of where my limbs were I had no issues shooting it.
Rick-
I hunt out of a climber with 68" bow, never had a problem with the length.
Darren
Canopyboy,
most Hills off the rack are very wide on the back side of the grip...that's Craig's standard. It seems to me that most people prefer a narrower back, around 1/2" wide at most before leather. This makes it easier to place your hand in the proper position with the back of the grip situated between the first and second joints of your fingers. Hill style longbow control starts with finger and grip control.
Since bamboo is a natural material, each piece and each bow can vary in density...aka bow weight. You need to start out heavy and tiller down to your desired weight and just sanding doesn't always do this. I know Craig suggests just sanding, but I've finished many of his blanks for customers, and they required tillering down to weight. If I would have just sanded, the bow would have been off tiller and timing, along with weight. Rule of thumb, tiller down to within 2# of desired weight and then sand to the final weight.
A few months ago, when I first got my new Redman, I took it to school to show the kids. We did some archery out on the oval, and eventually I flight-shot it. Even though it is a string-follow Hill, it seems to shoot flight just as well as my Black Widows or Silvertips. Anyway, one arrow went up and away, and we lost sight of it at the far end, thinking it had landed in the long grass. We had a bit of a look, but abandoned the search after awhile. Yesterday afternoon (three months later) I strolled out on the oval to have a break from mid-year report writing. The kids at After School Care were playing out there, and a couple of my students casually mentioned that they'd seen an arrow in a tree a few days ago. I knew it must be the one that I'd lost back then. They showed me where it was, gently resting caught-up in some branches, in the darkness of the foliage. We threw sticks to try to get it down, to no avail, then more kids arrived with footballs, which proved to be better projectiles, and in a few minutes, the arrow was down. The nock was slightly faded, but the shaft was straight, and the timber was fine. That arrow has sat there enduring some almighty monsoonal downpours, the heat, and now the dry season cold. And it shot fine. The kids all lined-up, and had a go at shooting, and one rascal even hit the milk bottle. They always get a kick out of seeing me shoot three or four arrows at a time, or shoot using my foot to hold the bow. It was a fun afternoon, and I came away with an extra arrow!
Sounds like a good time Ben. Thas pretty cool that you are shooting with the kids that way.I have a couple of questions for you.
Do you shoot 3or4 arrows on the string same time?
How does the bow like a foot shot? and last
FOOTBALLS: round or pointy? :goldtooth:
Take care Ben
Chuck
Cool story Mate ....
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
Canopyboy,
most Hills off the rack are very wide on the back side of the grip...that's Craig's standard. It seems to me that most people prefer a narrower back, around 1/2" wide at most before leather. This makes it easier to place your hand in the proper position with the back of the grip situated between the first and second joints of your fingers. Hill style longbow control starts with finger and grip control.
Since bamboo is a natural material, each piece and each bow can vary in density...aka bow weight. You need to start out heavy and tiller down to your desired weight and just sanding doesn't always do this. I know Craig suggests just sanding, but I've finished many of his blanks for customers, and they required tillering down to weight. If I would have just sanded, the bow would have been off tiller and timing, along with weight. Rule of thumb, tiller down to within 2# of desired weight and then sand to the final weight.
Nate,
Yep, that's about where I am right now on my back (1/2"). And you're describing how it's now comfortable for my finger joints to wrap around exactly.
The tiller looks good to me, but I've only ever really worked with self and board bows. And even them I'm light on experience. How does one check to make sure for a Hill? And what about timing? I have no idea how to check that.
Canopyboy,
tiller is the same principle no matter what bow material you are using or type of bow. Timing is something that guys don't pay much attention to, but with a Hill style, the lower limb is usually shorter and recoils at a different rate than the top limb in order to reach brace height at the same time.
The old timers used a tiller board and pulley system to watch the limbs flex and relax in quick motion to see how they returned to brace. This is also something you can do by pulling the bow barefingered and letting down in a smooth controlled motion, paying attention to the pressure of the string on your fingers. You must have your fingers in the position that you are shooting (split or 3under) and if the bow is way off timing, you can feel it easily. The string pressure will be greater on the top or bottom finger as you return to brace. Subtle timing is easier to see if you use a pulley system or mirrors.
Regarding the design of Hill bows, there are two things that make them the bows I hunt with.
(1) The Consistent accuracy. I can equal this accuracy with most well-made recurves, but not with any other longbow design, and I've shot the best. I imagine I could equal it with a 3-piece so-called longbow where longbow-like limbs are bolted to a heavy recurve riser, but that would be, well, not really a longbow at all.
(2) The shorter lower limb, as mentioned by Sunset Hill above. As a guy who hunts from the ground, that shorter lower limb is a huge advantage. I would estimate that 85 to 90 percent of the animals I have killed were shot on steep slopes while I was kneeling. That extra bit of clearance comes in handy, real handy.
I know very little of design but I do know how they make me feel when I'm shooting them.
I have owned and shot a lot of very good bows in my wonderful journey to find the bow or bows that "just did it" for me.
The Hill and hill style bows as it is turned out has the whole package for me.
Long elegant looking and hits where I'm looking but more importantly to me it's how I feel when I have one in my hands.
Yeah, you can call me an old romantic but I love the same feeling I got as a pup when after watching Robin Hood on tv and then I would head outside to my personal version of Sherwood forest.
Today when I grab one of my bows I am right back in my own Sherwood state of mind. I just love it!
God bless,Mudd
PS: Now you know for sure that I follow dad's advice... "Son! There's no point in being ignorant iffen you don't show it!"..lol
Roy,I'm with ya a 1000 percent.Don't get that feeling from any other bow.When I was 7 in 1960 my dads hunting buddy showed me how to shoot.It was a wooden longbow with stringfollow,I fell in love with that bow and that style of shooting.These Hills have taken me back to my roots and I'm enjoying it as much now as I did as a kid.
Kudus to all on here for enhancing us with so much info on these bows and this style of shooting,atip of my Fedora to all of you.
Interesting discussion about the overweight bows and sanding down to get to desired weight. The Tembo blank that I did was 61# when I got it from Craig. I wanted finish weight to be about 55#, but it took considerable sanding to finally arrive at 57# and that is where I left it. I counted sanding strokes as I worked, and checked for string centerline alignment and also checked for about 3/16" difference in tiller between upper and lower limbs, but didn't do anything about checking timing. I must have done something right, though, because it came out smoother-drawing and with less "thump" than other Hills I have shot that were finished by Craig himself.
I want to do another blank, but after Nate's comments I'm a bit apprehensive about whether I can achieve the same results without knowing more about the tillering process. Any additional thoughts, Nate?
When I tiller Hill blanks, I use a tiller board, then when it is close I shoot them for feel. I want the limb timing to get to a point where the bow naturally stands dead still on the release. it comes down to using nothing more than sandpaper to get the timing feel just right. when all this is done and I got it right, I have a plywood sheet with nails on a line. I line up the string to my exact marks and trace the limbs from fade out to where it meets the string. If everything thing is right the bottom limb will be 1&1/4" or 1&1/2", depending on the bow, shorter and 1/8th closer to the string than the top limb. I will end up with a perfectly shaped 1/8th inch to a point gull wing tracing. If it bulges or the lines cross the bow will not shoot right for me. With every longbow, either tillered my me or others, that I have checked this way, if they shoot right, I get that perfect gull wing.
Pavan please help me get the mental picture of this.
"a perfectly shaped 1/8th inch to a point gull wing tracing"
My brain apparently doesn't work like a lot of other folks and converts almost all information into word pictures that I either understand or don't and in this case it's a "don't"..lol
It's the 1/8th that's throwing me.
In fact I can't even get a picture. My dense!!
Thanks in advance!
God bless,Mudd
I should have pointed out that the bow gets flipped so the lines are along side each other and that bows designed and tillered for three under the lines will be of equal length and on top of each other. the 1/8th to 3/16th inch is the tiller measurement from the string to the belly of the braced bow at the end of the fade out. the lower limb is one eighth inch less than the top limb. Pm sent Mudward, I have the same problem, the old Madcow shows itself every time my wife starts telling me things.
TTT for the best thread on TG!
G'day Chuck,
Yep, three or four arrows on the string at the same time. The bow doesn't mind the foot shot at all, but Howard did it much better than me. And yes, it was a pointy football, but I can't remember if it was for rugby or AFL. We don't call them footballs if they're round; we call them soccer balls.
Cheers,
Ben
OK, Pavan, now I am really puzzled about this timing business - and, yes, I'm like Mudd, I can't seem to get a picture of what you are talking about. Could I please get some clarification, too. Thanks
Looks like we need a series of pix of the actual process...
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
Looks like we need a series of pix of the actual process...
Yes Sir!
I'm sure there is gold in them thar words...
clueless but intensely interested...LOL
:help:
I have also a question.
Craig offers his bows in different length; i.e. a bow for 50#@26" in length from 62" to 68". How is it done that these bows have their best performance @ 26"? Does it depend only on tillering or have the tapers to be different?
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
I have also a question.
Craig offers his bows in different length; i.e. a bow for 50#@26" in length from 62" to 68". How is it done that these bows have their best performance @ 26"? Does it depend only on tillering or have the tapers to be different?
unlike hybrid r/d longbows american flatbows with backset, straight or bellyset limbs need length to perform smoothly and stably.
my basic recommendations for the *minimum* hill longbow length for a given shooter's draw length - longer is better for smoothness of draw ...
64"/26", 66"/27", 68"/28", 70"/29"-30", 72"/30"-31"
tillering is always an issue, based on the above criteria and the shooter's string grip and form.
ymmv.
"64"/26", 66"/27", 68"/28", 70"/29"-30", 72"/30"-31"
Sounds about right to me ...
My Big-5 is 68" and I'm drawing 28" so glad to see the list :cool:
I have found these length to draw rules to be true
and most of my Hill collection match this
However I have found no noticeable shooting difference
between short or long bows except smooooothness
Of the draw. my comparison is a 70" 60@28 halfbreed
with 3 Lams of bamboo and a 60" 61@28 reverse handle
3 lams of bamboo this is my go to hunting bow deadly accurate bow, very fast
Steve
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
I have also a question.
Craig offers his bows in different length; i.e. a bow for 50#@26" in length from 62" to 68". How is it done that these bows have their best performance @ 26"? Does it depend only on tillering or have the tapers to be different?
unlike hybrid r/d longbows american flatbows with backset, straight or bellyset limbs need length to perform smoothly and stably.
my basic recommendations for the *minimum* hill longbow length for a given shooter's draw length - longer is better for smoothness of draw ...
64"/26", 66"/27", 68"/28", 70"/29"-30", 72"/30"-31"
tillering is always an issue, based on the above criteria and the shooter's string grip and form.
ymmv. [/b]
Rob,
I think you misunderstood my question. It wasn't about bowlength to drawlength, but about how it is done that bows of different length perform best at a given drawlength i.e 26".
QuoteOriginally posted by falconview:
I have found these length to draw rules to be true
and most of my Hill collection match this
However I have found no noticeable shooting difference
between short or long bows except smooooothness
Of the draw. my comparison is a 70" 60@28 halfbreed
with 3 Lams of bamboo and a 60" 61@28 reverse handle
3 lams of bamboo this is my go to hunting bow deadly accurate bow, very fast
Steve
This is what I meant! 2 bows, one 70", the other 60", both are tillerd/perform best @28" drawlength. How is this done?
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
I have also a question.
Craig offers his bows in different length; i.e. a bow for 50#@26" in length from 62" to 68". How is it done that these bows have their best performance @ 26"? Does it depend only on tillering or have the tapers to be different?
unlike hybrid r/d longbows american flatbows with backset, straight or bellyset limbs need length to perform smoothly and stably.
my basic recommendations for the *minimum* hill longbow length for a given shooter's draw length - longer is better for smoothness of draw ...
64"/26", 66"/27", 68"/28", 70"/29"-30", 72"/30"-31"
tillering is always an issue, based on the above criteria and the shooter's string grip and form.
ymmv. [/b]
Rob,
I think you misunderstood my question. It wasn't about bowlength to drawlength, but about how it is done that bows of different length perform best at a given drawlength i.e 26". [/b]
no, i heard ya - what i'm saying is that LENGTH - both draw and bow - is what matters most in terms of overall performance (smoothness, stability, speed, etc). this will assume that the bow is properly tillered for the shooter's form and string grip style.
iow, if you have a 26" draw length, you may be able to extract a tad more speed with shorter 62" limbs than 64", but the bow will invariably stack and not be a sweet shooter. then add to the equation the set of the limbs and the tiller. speed is not everything with bows, particularly hill style longbows. i'll
ALWAYS take a stable/slow bow over an unstable/fast bow. ymmv.
Well Said Rob..
I have found the Trad. American Longbow (TAL)which also stands for Tall, when properly built (limb taper, tiller, and alignment) will shoot smoother, with greater stability, durability and have less finger pinch if you follow Rob's suggestions. I am referring to a glass bow with a riser of about 14", and minimal backset (under 3/4").
An all wood, or laminated bamboo TAL, built with a 12" riser, may have an inch shaved off the length without any adverse affect. Going shorter, may result in a bow that stacks, and eventually leads to a break-down in the lower limb (over-bending), and a loss of tiller. I have seen this happen to several all bamboo longbows that were 64-65" and rated at 27". If you are going to get an all wood TAL without glass, it is better to go with a 67"/27" than 66"/27".
IMO, there are bowyers that build a short TAL, because the customer is hard to turn down. If you want shorter, than opt for a glass hybrid, with reflex-deflex, you will be happier.
[/qb][/QUOTE]no, i heard ya - what i'm saying is that LENGTH - both draw and bow - is what matters most in terms of overall performance (smoothness, stability, speed, etc). this will assume that the bow is properly tillered for the shooter's form and string grip style.
iow, if you have a 26" draw length, you may be able to extract a tad more speed with shorter 62" limbs than 64", but the bow will invariably stack and not be a sweet shooter. then add to the equation the set of the limbs and the tiller. speed is not everything with bows, particularly hill style longbows. i'll ALWAYS take a stable/slow bow over an unstable/fast bow. ymmv. [/QB][/QUOTE]
Rob,
still not the answer to my question!
You're right with the things you're saying, but it is possible to tiller a 60" bow for a 28" draw and also a 70" bow for a 28" draw!
I want to know how this is done! Without regarding smoothness of draw, stacking, etc..
I personally own HH/-style bows with different length. 2 are 62", 2 are 64", 2 are 66", 1 is 69".
I'd like to know how all these bows can be tillered to 25".
This is a good question for the bow building forums but it is my understanding that the bow needs to be designed from the start. Riser length, and good tapering will account for good tillering at the target length and weight. There is also trial and error involved with figuring out the correct formulas.
QuoteOriginally posted by bicster:
This is a good question for the bow building forums but it is my understanding that the bow needs to be designed from the start. Riser length, and good tapering will account for good tillering at the target length and weight. There is also trial and error involved with figuring out the correct formulas.
Thanks for the answer! That's what I'd wanted to hear/read. Just need a few more details. Nate, Dick, and all the other bow builders, please chime in.
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
no, i heard ya - what i'm saying is that LENGTH - both draw and bow - is what matters most in terms of overall performance (smoothness, stability, speed, etc). this will assume that the bow is properly tillered for the shooter's form and string grip style.
iow, if you have a 26" draw length, you may be able to extract a tad more speed with shorter 62" limbs than 64", but the bow will invariably stack and not be a sweet shooter. then add to the equation the set of the limbs and the tiller. speed is not everything with bows, particularly hill style longbows. i'll ALWAYS take a stable/slow bow over an unstable/fast bow. ymmv.
Rob,
still not the answer to my question!
You're right with the things you're saying, but it is possible to tiller a 60" bow for a 28" draw and also a 70" bow for a 28" draw!
I want to know how this is done! Without regarding smoothness of draw, stacking, etc..
I personally own HH/-style bows with different length. 2 are 62", 2 are 64", 2 are 66", 1 is 69".
I'd like to know how all these bows can be tillered to 25".
is essence, i did answer your question. i gave you the real world guidelines for a hill longbow minimum bow lengths with respect to draw lengths, and with respect to their standard riser length and subsequent ntn loa.
most any stick bow can be tillered for most any shorter draw length. the real question is, was the bow designed and crafted for a specific draw length as opposed to being modified to accommodate a shorter draw length?
you can tiller a 60" hill style american flat longbow for a 28" draw, but it'll be a dog unless it's designed with a real short riser, long limbs and much luck, cause brother, that bow will not be fun to shoot.
you can tiller a 69" hill longbow to 25" and it will be super smooth drawing and shooting, but that's probably NOT going to give you OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. the correct hill style longbow length for 25" draw length reads more like 62" to 64".
stick to the minimum guidelines i showed above and you will be a happy longbow archer. if you don't, yer asking for a very special bow that might just not be able to be built, and if so, it still may not work as well as a more "standard" hill longbow based on, you guessed it, the guidelines shown above.
iow, you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear when it comes to hill AFL's (American Flat Longbows).
[/QUOTE]is essence, i did answer your question. i gave you the real world guidelines for a hill longbow minimum bow lengths with respect to draw lengths, and with respect to their standard riser length and subsequent ntn loa.
most any stick bow can be tillered for most any shorter draw length. the real question is, was the bow designed and crafted for a specific draw length as opposed to being modified to accommodate a shorter draw length?
you can tiller a 60" hill style american flat longbow for a 28" draw, but it'll be a dog unless it's designed with a real short riser, long limbs and much luck, cause brother, that bow will not be fun to shoot.
you can tiller a 69" hill longbow to 25" and it will be super smooth drawing and shooting, but that's probably NOT going to give you OPTIMUM PERFORMANCE. the correct hill style longbow length for 25" draw length reads more like 62" to 64".
stick to the minimum guidelines i showed above and you will be a happy longbow archer. if you don't, yer asking for a very special bow that might just not be able to be built, and if so, it still may not work as well as a more "standard" hill longbow based on, you guessed it, the guidelines shown above.
iow, you can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear when it comes to hill AFL's (American Flat Longbows). [/QB][/QUOTE]
Rob,
again you're right.
But I'm still interested in how it could be done.
tg2nd,
a short bow and long bow can both be tillered to a long draw....tillering is nothing more than making the limbs bend in a smooth arc and bend in unison. how far you want them to bend is determined by alot of factors of which bowlength is one. With the short bow and long draw the arc is tighter, which leads to extra speed and loss of smoothness or stacking. A long bow and short draw the arc is alot shallower and you don't get the performance most would desire. Rob's ratios are commonly thought of to be the best for all around performance...smoothness of draw and speed.
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
...But I'm still interested in how it could be done.
i just told you. nate just told you, too.
From a shooter's perspective, for the last several inches, a good bow gains pretty close to three pounds per inch of draw.
If you draw 30 inches, that's the perfect recipe for you.
If you draw 25 inches, it's also perfect for you.
The thing is, a good bow draws about three pounds per inch of draw. The bow does not care if you draw it 25 inches, or 28 inches.
If I were to loan any of my 75-pound Hill bows to my wife, she would only draw them to her draw length, but they would still be smooth as silk to her draw length, just as they are to my draw length.
The bowyer only needs to build a bow that does not smoothly gain more than three pounds or so per inch of draw. Beyond that, it's up to the archer.
A picture is worth.....
Does anyone have a scale handy and can gather draw wt data at 1/2" increments beginning at 25" and ending at 30"
If so, plot that data in excel and "see" all of this stuff in one picture. Do it with a 70"er and compare it to any other length to verify what is happening.
My new HH halfbreed "mac" is a 69" string follow marked 57#@ 29". It measures #56@28" (as expected)
My good friend Mudd fed me with the following data:
at 26" - 49#
at 27" - 51#
at 28" - 56#
At my draw, 27.5" he pulls 53# which is about 3# lighter than my target wt. but ok for starters.
I doubt that the weight increase will be linear in any of these hill bows but I would like to see it in a chart...that chart/graph will answer a ton of questions...imo
Thanks a lot for your answers.
Now I understand.
force-draw curves are interesting at best. get a 32" "arrow" - a dowel or shaft with a nock at one end and marked in 1/2" increments from 24" to 31". start with a clothespin held tight at the 24" mark (add a rubber band 'round the clothespin to increase the clamping tightness) and pull with your easton digital scale 'til the pin touches the back of the riser. do it twice again, each time checking the resulting weight and accept the average. write it down. continue moving the clothespin to all marks. plot the xy coordinates on graph paper. there's yer force-draw curve.
however, the rubber meets the road with bow in hand, arrow on rest, and your specific draw length reached.
it either feels right or it doesn't. ;)
Any good selfbowyer will always graph out his draw force curve so he can adjust to his intended final draw weight as smoothly as possible while keeping his intended tiller.
My 2 cents worth
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
force-draw curves are interesting at best.
it either feels right or it doesn't. ;)
Rob, I agree. there are two distinctly different things addressed here...one of which will naturally affect the other...
knowing how your bow stacks is interesting but where it begins to take off and more importantly how it affects your "arrow on the rest" feeling is a point where there may be a correlation in design length and the point where that particular bow will not give a guy those warm fuzzies...IMO
I've only graphed one of my bows, but go alot on feel as the bow is shaped,tillered, and timed. however, I try to make them all 'feel' similar taking into account the different weights. The one I graphed is to me the perfect force draw curve......a straight line about 45 degrees angle across the graph paper. It's one of my personal bows, and draws 2#/inch starting at 12" all the way to 28", which is 1" past my draw. I try to tiller all my bows to be smooth to 1" past the targeted draw length. IMO the smoothest bow is a straight line force draw 'curve'. No exaggerated steep lines before bottoming out in a smooth curve. to me, that is what a compound does. A r/d bow, in my opinion, has a force draw curve that softly imitates a compound force draw curve. I want to build bows as far from that curve as I can.....but to each their own, we're all different in likes and dislikes....
Nate you said that a heck of a lot more intelligently than what I tried to earlier.
I used the terminology of "draw force curve" because that's what I was measuring but I wanted it to be as straight a line as I could make it.
A straight line equates to smoothness of draw and usually less hand vibration in the finished product.
But I know very little of making bows.
My experience was in getting sticks of Osage to bend to my string to the point they would fling an arrow and not much more.
I would never besmirch the good title of bowyer by adding it anywhere near my name.
I would like to thank everyone who has participated in this awesome thread.
It has been not only informative but very interesting.
God bless,Mudd
The bow that Nate built for me follows along what he said. I had been shooting the bow for two years and one day at the shop asked him to check it on the bow scale. We did not check the weight gain all along the draw but from 26" to 28" (where I was interested in) it gained 2# per inch. He did the tillering by feel and it feels reallllly smooth to me. :thumbsup:
HA! At last, ye scoundrels, I am vindicated!
You have giggled and scoffed at my painted bows, but this will set your minds straight on the matter, and show you that I am clearly in line with long and glorious bow-painting traditions.
I share the following quote with you, from the book "The White Company" by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. This book is said to be the greatest adventure novel ever written about archers, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle himself said is was his greatest book.
And I quote:
"His shaven face was as brown as a hazel-nut, tanned and dried by the weather, with harsh, well-marked features, which were not improved by a long white scar which stretched from the corner of his left nostril to the angle of the jaw. His eyes were bright and searching, with something of menace and of authority in their quick glitter, and his mouth was firm-set and hard, as befitted one who was wont to set his face against danger. A straight sword by his side and a painted long-bow jutting over his shoulder proclaimed his profession, while his scarred brigandine of chain-mail and his dinted steel cap showed that he was no holiday soldier, but one who was even now fresh from the wars. A white surcoat with the lion of St. George in red upon the centre covered his broad breast, while a sprig of new-plucked broom at the side of his head-gear gave a touch of gayety and grace to his grim, war-worn equipment."
I REST MY CASE.
Hahaha!!!!!! :archer:
PS: Sir Doyle also wrote Sherlock Holmes...lol
:biglaugh: Rik, can you get that outfit in Hunter Orange, 'cause your goin' to need it if you go to mountains like that :laughing:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
...I share the following quote with you, from the book "The White Company" by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. This book is said to be the greatest adventure novel ever written about archers, and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle himself said is was his greatest book.
And I quote:
"His shaven face was as brown as a hazel-nut, tanned and dried by the weather, with harsh, well-marked features, which were not improved by a long white scar which stretched from the corner of his left nostril to the angle of the jaw. His eyes were bright and searching, with something of menace and of authority in their quick glitter, and his mouth was firm-set and hard, as befitted one who was wont to set his face against danger. A straight sword by his side and a painted long-bow jutting over his shoulder proclaimed his profession, while his scarred brigandine of chain-mail and his dinted steel cap showed that he was no holiday soldier, but one who was even now fresh from the wars. A white surcoat with the lion of St. George in red upon the centre covered his broad breast, while a sprig of new-plucked broom at the side of his head-gear gave a touch of gayety and grace to his grim, war-worn equipment."
...
ah, a most fave book of mine, dog eared from 40+ years of reading and rereading. i'm still laboring over the hollywood screenplay adaptation, in the most errol flynn of styles.
some selected passages that i consider apropos to we devotees of the hill variety of stick 'n' string ...
The White Company (http://www.tradgang.com/rob/ta/white/index.html)
why does an edit create a new post???
QuoteOriginally posted by Tony Van Dort:
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
The one I graphed is to me the perfect force draw curve......a straight line about 45 degrees angle across the graph paper. It's one of my personal bows, and draws 2#/inch starting at 12" all the way to 28", which is 1" past my draw. I try to tiller all my bows to be smooth to 1" past the targeted draw length. IMO the smoothest bow is a straight line force draw 'curve'. ...
Nate...That is a perfect picture of "smooth" ......a linear (straight) line showing consistentcy...and an inch past your draw! :thumbsup:
Exactly what I was referring to and the same thing Mudd said.
A plot like that shows one does not need to go to a longer bow to gain that sweet feel on draw, while at the same time getting better effeciency out of a tighter arc.
IMO [/b]
Rob,
Thanks for the link!
I have never heard of this book...looks to be a good'un.
For what its worth I have a horse named Sir Nigel and another named Sam ..... and had St Bernard named " Hordle " ....
Great great book ! all longbowmen should read it !
Rik, if its ok for Sir Nigel and crew to give the Longbow a lick of paint then you are forgiven and in good company it would seem ...
the entire book ...
The White Company (http://www.tradgang.com/rob/white/index.html) - html page
The White Company (http://www.tradgang.com/rob/white/twc.txt) - text file
Thank you, Rob - have been searching for that book for a long time - never thought of Internet
wouldn't that book make for a dandy epic action/adventure movie in the errol flynn 'robinhood' style???
The big screen debut seems long overdue.
I've been bitten!!! Pics of the infection later this week.
"wouldn't that book make for a dandy epic action/adventure movie in the errol flynn 'robinhood' style??? "
Heck Yes !!!
Lets see ...
Starring .... well me of course , Rob and Rik ,Mudd , Tony .....
I'm re reading again today ... Gee i Love this book !
Also .. my new Belcher Union Jack 66" 52@ 27" [all yew]arrived last week with the Carbon Sleeve t/d .... very nice system I must say .
I'l post pics later
Picked up my copy of the white company on amazon for about ten bucks a while back.......going to reread it this week.
the only slight drawback to 'the white company' is that the prose has many references to middle english. a google search will offer a number of online sources to help out more than well.
what a spectacular 'n' splendorous big silver screen movie it will make - think of flynn's 'robin hood' (1938) meets 'lord of the rings' (the new millennium). the cast and filming venues will be tres important, too! pg13 rated, of course - because cloth yard shafts will be meeting flesh and bone, as will swords and pikes, therefore blood will spilleth.
Here is one of my favorites. :thumbsup:
---Song of the Bow---
by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle
What of the bow?
The bow was made in England:
Of true wood, of yew wood,
The wood of English bows;
So men who are free
Love the old yew tree
And the land where the yew tree grows.
What of the cord?
The cord was made in England:
A rough cord, a tough cord,
A cord that bowmen love;
So we'll drain our jacks
To the English flax
And the land where the hemp was wove.
What of the shaft?
The shaft was cut in England:
A long shaft, a strong shaft,
Barbed and trim and true;
So we'll drink all together
To the gray goose feather
And the land where the gray goose flew.
What of the men?
The men were bred in England:
The bowman--the yeoman--
The lads of dale and fell
Here's to you--and to you;
To the hearts that are true
And the land where the true hearts dwell
Ben,
Lets see that Belcher!!
I'll get some pics of the Belcher ...
As a side note for the bookworms amongst us ... the main characters in Doyles "the White Company" are somewhat resurrected in SM Stirlings post apocolyptic "Dies the Fire " series... they are still a fine hand with the longbow even if the novels , whilst entertaining , are 'simple ' stuff .
OK! bring up to speed, was this movie made? is it BEING made? or are we just wishing?
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
OK! bring up to speed, was this movie made? is it BEING made? or are we just wishing?
mostly wishing at this point. i've been writing the screenplay for the last 10 years. i've always thought it would make a stellar big screen epic adventure movie, with LOTS of archery action ... and if the plot, screenplay and actors were right it would be motivating enuf to make a non-archery audience enjoy the flick and pay the bills. :)
Just got an email from Vince today that my Mohawk has been sprayed so should have it pretty soon!!
BTW Rob I'd pay to see that movie :clapper:
Joe
Rob, are'nt you friends with that Cameron, gentleman? :biglaugh:
Who would be your lead man....modern day actor?
If Selleck, was only a little younger!
QuoteOriginally posted by frank bullitt:
Rob, are'nt you friends with that Cameron, gentleman? :biglaugh:
i wish :D though as with any action flick, there will definitely need to be some cgi moments
Who would be your lead man....modern day actor?
not my job to decide, though the choice of actors is surely critical
If Selleck, was only a little younger!
no, a LOT younger! :)
Just got "The White Company", so with any luck soon I'll be able to join in the conversation!
Pete
"Bird's Eye View"
Finally finished Bird's Eye View. Came in at exactly the 20# I needed at my draw.
65" 25@28
.037 clear glass
.057 mixed quilted and birdseye maple parallel
power lam
.120 tapered bamboo
.057 mixed quilted and birdseye maple parallel
.037 glass
18" bubinga riser
shoulder width 1.11, grip width .088
no shelf, just rolled leather at top of wrap
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/bev7.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/bev5.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/bev6.jpg)
I'm pleased. It came out nice and I'll be shooting it at Western Regional
I've read all the Holmes stories, but had never heard of "The White Company". Here's a site to download it for free. I just put it on my Kindle.
http://www.manybooks.net/titles/doyleartetext97whtco12.html
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
"Bird's Eye View"
Finally finished Bird's Eye View. Came in at exactly the 20# I needed at my draw.
...
pretty bow, dick. real nice.
what kinda performance does such an ultralight draw weight offer?
how heavy, er, light is the mass arrow weight?
what are the target distances yer shooting at?
just curious.
Thats a ripper Dick !
Good job mate . I have a couple of Bows with no shelf and love the way they shoot ...
Great bow Dick! That is definitely my favorite of all of your bows.
Bic
Dick,
I love the way you hang in there with the lightweights! never give up, you're proving that guys can enjoy these bows no matter what weight they have to shoot :thumbsup:
Very nice bow Dick! .....What differences if any ,do you notice compared to your hills?
Magoo thanks for the link
Rob... Obviously, it doesn't shoot like a 45 or 50 pounder :(
However, it really isn't all that bad. I use lighter arrows, Easton Blues and Jazz at full length. The 1416's weigh in at 257 gr. with a nib point and the 1516's at 268 gr. I have some even skinnier ones, but haven't fletched them up or found good points for them. I'm hoping that I can shorten them a bit and get a match.
I had this bow pretty well matched with the 1516's yesterday, but I added a leather pad when I put the wrap on it this morning. Now they're behaving maybe a bit stiff. I'll try the 1416's tomorrow. As you can imagine, it gets kind of sensitive.
I put it through the chrono a few minutes ago. Hand release at my 25" draw and 20# I got consistantly 126 to 129 fps. Nominally, HS are supposed to produce 115 plus draw weight, but I think that pre-supposes a longer draw. My bows usually will from a machine release, but not from my hand release That would be 135 for this one, so it's a little low, but that's just about average for most of mine. My hand release will run about 5 to 8 fps less than I'd like to be able to say they got.
As to shooting distance, I shoot out to 30 yards as a rule. At the range I'll play games and try some longer shots, even make some if I'm using a bow I've been shooting for awhile, but let's face it, it'll never be a target bow. Fortunately, I gave up keeping score at anything many years ago when I got so intense I almost had a heart attack. Quit in the middle of a bench rest match and bought my first sailboat that very day!
I love 3D and shoot it as if I were hunting. I pass shots that I know I shouldn't take (well, I try to...). I shoot for fun and my light bows are to enable me to keep doing that. Obviously, they ain't going hunting!
I do have a couple of 38 pounders that I wouldn't hesitate to use to hunt javelina, and would love to get a chance at small pigs with. Would not try for a grown hog. Had the chance to try for hogs, but they were running over 120 lbs. and didn't think it was a good idea. I can shoot those bows fine in hunting situations, i.e. a few shots, but not in something like a 3D shoot.
I haven't felt really handicapped at 3D with the bows down to 27#, and even do OK with my 23# Sweet Georgia Brown, but i can tell there are going to be limitations on this one. However, I know it will be needed and wanted to have it built and in reserve. This may be the bow where I start shooting all the targets from the kids stakes! :) Don't see anything wrong with that... I really am just a big kid...
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
Great Photo!
Howard adapted his form to the equipment of the day, but more importantly, he adapted his form for the needs of a hunting archer...meaning he was very fluid and not 'locked out'. This helped him make moving shots as well as stationary shots and all the trick shots inbetween. He was not a static target archer in the sense of the term. You can see photos of Larry Hughes and others at that time who have what is commonly termed today as target form.
Howard also was left eye dominate, which blows away the concept that your dominate eye has to be over the arrow and lined up with the string. This photo shows how large and intense his left eye would stare at the target. Schulz commentated on this fact quite a bit.
Back on page 98 it says HH was Left eye dominant...I am as well, I also know that if I dont squint when shooting my Robin Hood, I shoot way left at 30 yards....I have to squint my dominant left eye and make sure im on by sighting down the shaft to ensure left and right is centered. I have also tried to line uo the "left arrow " if you will when focusing on the target because I can see 2 arrows in my peripheral vision ..it doesnt always work an man....eye dominance is surely a big thing for me.....I wonder how Howard overcame it....I also wonder if it was a very dominant eye or just a little bit. How do you guys do it? Im a squinter. I wish I didnt have to do it.
Dick are you going to be at western states this weekend?
If so there will be a pipe an a home brew waiting
for you Hope to see ya. Steve
Steve... should pull in around noon Friday. Looking forward to it.
Montauk... somehow your post slipped past as my last one was going out. Difference between mine and Craig's... Not a lot, other than he's modernized his bows and puts shelves on 'em. :) Seriously though, allowing for the light draw weights, I try to build about the same bow. I use a longer riser because i want a long, forgiving bow in spite of my short draw, and that means a shorter working limb. For the same reason, I use a power lam. Craig almost always uses tip wedges. With me, it's a sometimes thing. Howard was agin' 'em because of the weight. That's even more critical with my lightweights. Again, because of the weight, mine tend to be slimmer in width than his.
I think the biggest difference is in the feel. Aside from draw weight, which is a separate issue, I find that "real" Hills almost always seem to feel stiff for the draw weight to me. I think Craig tillers more power into the lower half of the limb, knowing folks will be shooting heavy arrows with them. He also uses more taper than I do, which, again, is going to leave more power concentrated in the first half of the limbs. Just about everyone who's gotten their hands on one of mine has commented on the smoothness, and that makes me feel real good.
Wow!
Dick, you wasted no time finishing that one! She's gorgeous....and apparently sweet too.
QuoteOriginally posted by Arwin:
I've been bitten!!! Pics of the infection later this week.
Nice...can't wait to see it!
Oh and shoot it!
Josh
dick, longevity that's functional and fun is all that matters. too many heavy hitter archers these dayze need to take a wake up call from you. ;)
"knitting needle" alums do seem the way to go. i once had a mid-60's bear alaskan freestyle target recurve rig that was 29#@29.5" and mated it fine with xx75 1616's fletched with 1.5" spin wings. shooting split finger wasn't really a problem, and my tab was near paper thin. i also shot it with a thumb rope release i made and that made a huge difference for a super clean release. i shot naa, paa and nfaa events with that bow, out to 80 yards - yep, EIGHTY yards. i did all right with that bow in the tourney's, too. :)
QuoteOriginally posted by Wannabe1:
I had a Half Breed last year I let go of. :knothead: It had a Bubinga riser with ebony limb tips. One smooth shooting bow!
Look forward to your thoughts on it.
TW, you must have been talking to me, seeing as that bow is my main hunting bow. I've taken a coyote with it, a dozen or so squirrels, and a few rabbits. I did miss a buck last year with it (lower limb hit a stump). It's got a few nicks now, but it's still a sweet shooter.
At 69", it's as short as I'd want to go. I draw it 30.5". On my scale, it pulls around 50# at my draw length. It's marked 45@29".
I'm shooting some full length 60-65 spine surewoods out of it. With 145 points, they weigh around 620 grains and hit really hard. I just got a few 55-60 cedars and, with 125 grain heads, are flying great, too. The cedars weigh around 550 grains.
"Fine Sixty-nine" is a quiet, smooth shooter. The grip is a little too small for my big mitts, and when I grip it, my hand doesn't naturally fall into the correct position. The grip needs to be a little deeper (from back to belly).
At any rate, I still shoot it pretty well. I centerpunched a squirrel at 42 steps back in February. I also shot a running rabbit right through the neck at about 15 yards. That shot was really pretty lucky and happened really quickly. I'm a pretty deliberate shooter and definitely not the snap draw type, but I busted that rabbit before I really had time to think.
I'm think I'm going to order a Sunset Hill. Anyone know how long the wait is?
Looper....At the present time Nate is not even thinking of taking orders. I want one BAD, but last time I asked him it was maybe like 2 years and at my age that's a big part of the rest of my life. ;) Now he isn't even thinking about when he will resume order taking until he gets caught up. Looks like I am just not getting a Sunset Hill in this lifetime. :(
Looper, Dave is right. I'm not taking any orders right now, just trying to get caught up from the last few years backlog....
David, you had your chance buddy...lol. A couple of years ago you debated getting a bow...you would have one by now but you put it off thinking you wouldn't be around long enough...lol. you're proving that theory wrong :)
Mt Longbow....I'm neutral eye (no real dominate eye, either eye takes over for whatever I'm doing) and I learned to shoot lefty or righty, switch baseball hitter, etc.... if you use both eyes open, you will learn to shoot well instinctively without having to put the eye over the arrow. Lining up the dominate eye helps, don't get me wrong, but not totally necessary. You can throw a ball, shoot a basketball, etc without worrying about eye dominance because your mind uses triangulation to figure distance and accuracy correction. being one-eyed is a shooting hinderance in a bigger way because you limit your peripheral vision and triangulation for calculating distance judgment and therefore your hand-eye coordination for shooting suffers. In other words, don't squint.
If you leave both eyes open, and concentrate on the target only, don't concentrate on the arrow or tip whatsoever. Let the peripheral vision see the arrow, at rest and in flight. watch the target only until the arrow hits it. DO NOT watch the arrow in flight as you learn this. close range shooting helps because the arrow doesn't arc into the vision line as much. The reason behind this is....if you concentrate on the target and not the arrow in flight, then your peripheral vision sees the arrow flight in relation to the target you are wishing to hit and then the mind makes corrections for your hand-eye coordination to adjust. If you change your focus from the target to the arrow in flight (even for a split second), then the arrow flight and target become synonomous because you have been telling the body to shoot where you look. This confuses your mind and body. For instinctive shooting to work, especially at long ranges, your mind has to be able to see the difference between the straight line from eye to target and the arched line of the arrow in flight. this is why many instinctive shooters are good shots at close range, (where the arrow flight is a straight line) and bad shots at longer range(where the arrow flight is arched above the eyesight line)...the reason is they switch their focus from the target to the arrow in flight....
MT, Just keep shooting, using both eyes open and concentrating on the target only....you can do it...your body can do it. It's kinda like hitting (or missing) something in the road with your car tires...purely instinctive and both eyes are open and you aren't using a dominate eye, yet somehow you do it while travelling at high speed....
Sunset, thank you my brother...I am a decent shot out to 35-40 yards with squinting...I will keep bothe eyes open and just force my hand to come to the right a bit more each shot that isleft while focusing on the target intently...its going to take some doing...I dont seem to have the left issue with my Toelke as much as with my HH.....now thats got me flustered...but thats another story and not for this HH forum.....I love my HH Robin Hood, and cant wait for my New 70 Inch 56-60 (dont know yet) Black back carmelized Wesley.
Patrick
Yeah, Nate.....should have ordered then....you snooze you lose.
:saywhat:
I'm thinking about building my own. I've been following Mr. Wightman's progress over the years and he's inspired me.
Is there a formula for figuring out the right grip size based on hand measurements? The grip on my Halfbreed is definitely too small for me. When I have the bow correctly on the pads of my fingers, my hand rolls too far inward. When I have the hand placed correctly on the belly side, my fingers wrap too far around the grip and cause me to torque the bow. I have to compromise my grip position and make it work, but it's not ideal. I can really tell that my hand position affects my accuracy at longer ranges.
Looper,
everyone's hand size is different, obviously, but it's the size of your palm vs. finger length that is the kicker for a straight grip. Best thing for you to do if you're going to build your own.....take off your leather wrap, get some medium weight veg-tan leather and contact cement the it completely around the grip in several layers. Then take a wood rasp and go to town, shaping the grip to fit YOUR hand...and shoot the bow during the process. When it's what you want, measure all the dimensions, circumference is the main thing, and you can build your next bow just right....
the leather is stiff enough to get the right feel, and you won't tear up your bow...you can even cover the leather with another wrap and shoot your Halfbreed that's been now customized...lol.
Nate's right... shape and shoot is the way to go. I have a situation upcoming where I'm going to be building a bow for a shooting friend who happens to be one really tall guy, with huge hands and a 30" draw. i warned him that I wasn't real comfortable going into this territory. I think I can handle tillering out to his draw with a new tiller pole with a pulley system. (My 25" draw ain't gonna cut it!) However, the hand size problem is another deal and I've told him that he'd have to come by at the right time and spend an afternoon working with me on that. We can start with him holding the rough riser, then my rasping, then him shooting, then me rasping, then.... Well, here's hoping it works.
P.S. Thanks for thinking of what i'm doing as progress. Sometimes I wonder! :)
Nate, that's exactly what I was planning on doing. As a matter of fact, before I read your post, I was cutting up some leather to build up the grip on my Halfbreed. I'll post some pics of the results.
On another note, I was drawing up some plans for a form. I'm planning on using a straight form. Am I correct in thinking this will produce a some slight string follow?
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
I'm planning on using a straight form. Am I correct in thinking this will produce a some slight string follow?
Last night I pulled my second Hill style bow off a straight form exactly like Dick Wightman's 1/8" wall 1.5" square aluminum one. The first bow is a 64" 52#@28" that has about 3/8" of string follow. That bow is a shooter. I shot a 3d tournament with it on Saturday. I just ground the glue off the new one this morning. I am on call for work now, so I hope to be finishing this bow next week.
I figure this way... a large number of Hill shooters favor some pre-set. Another large number favor some string follow. So... laying up for right in the middle, i.e. straight, can't be all bad. If by chance an aluminum form turns out to give you 1/4" to 3/8" string follow with an easier form to make and an easier layup, who's complaining!? Should be noted though that the same phenomenon can occur with a wood form, maybe not as much so. That aluminum square tubing form is a dream, though. It's not refined and I don't think you'll see commercial bowyers going to it :) , but for beginning garage and basement bowyers, it sure saves a lot of problems and gets you started right up. Combine it with an overpass riser to avoid the problems of sharp angle clamping on the fades and you've given yourself a heck of a jump start.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dick in Seattle:
That aluminum square tubing form is a dream, though. It's not refined and I don't think you'll see commercial bowyers going to it :) , but for beginning garage and basement bowyers, it sure saves a lot of problems and gets you started right up. Combine it with an overpass riser to avoid the problems of sharp angle clamping on the fades and you've given yourself a heck of a jump start.
Absolutely! My first used a traditional riser, but with the second, I switched to the overpass style. Much easier and took less time to clamp up. I ground the glue off this morning and ground off the top part of the overpass at the same time. Much faster.
With the overpass style, is there a risk of the riser separating from the belly glass?
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
With the overpass style, is there a risk of the riser separating from the belly glass?
Captain Dick has made several this way and I haven't heard of any failures yet.
Here are some pictures of the bows I made on my form. This picture shows the new blank next to the first bow. Both bows have black glass on the back and clear glass on the belly.
(http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc494/xbmedic/IMG_20110526_143905-1.jpg)
This pictures shows the different Hawaiian hardwoods I used for the risers. The bow on the right has a milo riser, while the new bow blank has curly koa.
(http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc494/xbmedic/IMG_20110526_143625-1.jpg)
So is the clear belly glass going up the fades on these bows? I can't really tell from the picture. I was thinking that we were talking about the riser being glued on top of the belly glass.
Totally awesome looking bows Al!!!!!
:archer:
PS: Thank you for sharing with us.
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
So is the clear belly glass going up the fades on these bows? I can't really tell from the picture. I was thinking that we were talking about the riser being glued on top of the belly glass.
The glass goes up the fades on the riser. I just didn't run the belly lam up the riser because I wanted to show off the riser wood. I built the new bow exactly like Dick Wightman shows in "How I Build a Bow 2" on his site. Plus, if you email Captain Dick, he will give you additional guidance. :cool:
Thanks, Mudd! I will try to get some better pictures up here later.
Al,
Cool! Pretty Koa...your local favorite I am sure...looks great!!
Thanks, Tony!
Re overpass riser...
Don't get the riser style confused with the layup style. You can lay the bow up either with all of the wood lams together forward of the riser and only the glass going up the belly fades, or you can lay up with both glass and one wood lam going up the belly fades and over the top of the overpass. Obviously, these two choices are equally available with a regular riser. The difference is simply a matter of preference. Howard liked all the wood lams together from a performance standpoint, and it does make for an easier layup. I have never heard of a layup separating because of doing this. (Though I have had a riser separate when it was simply glued to the layup, no glass going up the fades.)
I make my choice of which way to lay up the bow based on the woods in the bow. If I'm trying to emphasize the riser wood, I just bring the clear glass up the fades. This is especially effective if you have some nice grain in the riser that shows when you saw out the fade curves. If I'm trying to emphasize the limb wood, as with "Bird's Eye View", I will make sure the belly lam is thin (.050 to .060) and bring both it and the glass up the fades.
The overpass riser style simply makes the layup easier. You don't have to cut one piece of glass and you have easier curves to clamp. I don't think it affects performance, but it may affect durability. I think the shallower curves it provides make it easier to get solid, smooth clamping on the curves of the fades and thus a better bond between layers, with less chance of bubbles or gaps.
Ah, I get it now. The belly glass "passes over" the riser. That definitely looks a lot easier to glue up.
Looper... check out these two links. The first is to a complete over pass riser build along and the second is to the info on the aluminum tube form, but also shows some good views of the per pass riser construction process.
http://www.dickwightman.com/archeryactivity/bowbuilding/tgbow-2/swapbow-2.html
http://www.dickwightman.com/archeryactivity/bowbuilding/newform/newform.htm
Dick, that's just what I have in mind. Thanks for your efforts.
Where in Seattle do you live? I've lived in Puyallup, Sumner, and Graham. Graham was a great place. Lots of elk and blacktail around. We had to shoo the elk out of our orchard on a regular basis.
Dick,
I really appreciate the two links above! Being a non-bowyer it gives me a lot insite on making a Hill-type longbow. ( I'm working on my first osage flatbow-a real learning experience and muscle building one). At 72 I don't know if I have enough time to learn the lam. bow process :knothead: (LOL)!
Larry
Dick,
You have a great set-up there...
Thanks for the links!
QuoteOriginally posted by 3Under:
At 72 I don't know if I have enough time to learn the lam. bow process :knothead: (LOL)!
Larry,
I'm thinking on the yardstick of life, you still have enough inches left to pick up lam bows as well.
:thumbsup:
On another note, I'm guessing that sometime tomorrow we might hit the 200 page mark.
Imagine trying to start at the beginning now. I have enough trouble looking for things I know were said only a couple weeks ago.
Hmmm, has the Hill bow buying frenzy slowed for a while??? No mention of such for a little while. :confused:
David,
I concur with you....I think that as is the case in many Hill bow 'frenzies'....the lack of proper instruction as to how these beauties are handled leaved many guys out in the cold and without the affection of their 'Hill-bow Sweeties'.
I think that just about anyone can grab a recurve or R/D bow and be successfull, because they grip/hold similar to a compound (of which many guys are converts). Hill style bows take some extra dedication, devotion, and committment, and attention to certain handling criteria. Lack of this instruction or committment to the task results in unsatisfactory results and a shelved or sold longbow....how very sad :(
Sunset Hill I would love for you to do a short video on the proper grip and way to shoot the bow, then have a shot where you show yourself from th side so we can see your grip and the bow in action as you shoot a string or two....I know watching your form would only help mine!
Patrick Hover
Do I detect a Hint of Sarcsim there??? :confused: :laughing: :laughing:
imho, there is no "proper grip" to any bow, only the grip that is most consistent for you, the shooter, and no one else.
imho, in the best of all worlds, there should be one pressure point of contact 'tween the back of the bow handle, as close to the arrow shelf as possible to reduce any unwanted leverage, and some single point of the bowhand's palm.
no, not the entire palm of the hand, just one point. if you reference asbell's latest gem, 'advanced instinctive shooting for bowhunters', you'll see the best general area for the bowhand pressure point nicely depicted.
once you have found that sweet pressure point spot (which should be almost too easy to feel), the rest of the hand - the palm and fingers - exert ZERO PRESSURE on the handle. this allows the bow to pivot on your bow hand's pressure point and will prevent the common 'heeling' of the bowhand on release that cause so many bad arrows.
the bowhand's forefinger and thumb touch, thus holding the bow from punching out of yer bowhand upon release.
this type of bowhand pressure point also allows the bottom of the bowhand (pinky et al) to angle slightly away from the riser/arrow shelf, which gives lots of bowstring clearance on release. it also demands that you need to do what you should be doing all the time - using yer back muscles to 'push-pull' as you aim and release.
you can use this type of single pressure point grip with most any type of handle grip - straight, dished, soft locator or recurve pistol.
it is easier to find that pressure spot with a soft locator grip. you can wrap a straight grip with one turn of 1/8" leather right under where your pressure is located for quicker reference.
Ive heard alot about the way to heel this HH bow of mine to get the shorter lower limb to flex properly. So RDS I get confused when you advocate (that may not be the right word)a more traditional grip such that I used for ever on my compound and my othe RD longbows. Dan Toelke teaches a very different gripfor his Whip style bow due to the grip being almost the same as a recurve, than I get from the HH shooters. So in essence they are very different ways to hold the bow. Asbells book, I have it, and he, I believe is instructing on a very high wrist high hand hold for the recurves he is shooting. I am going to get his second book which I heard he talks more about traditional longbows with straight grips and similar to HH long bow style grip where the pressure is more low wrist and heeling. holding and shooting my HH 70 incer with a high wrist just doesnt work too well for me.
i won't talk about the wrist or bow arm placements. those are matters for each of us to suss out and decide what's best. what works for me may not work for you, in those two criteria.
however, the 'single point of bow handle/bow hand' matter is, imho, irrefutable - it's physically the most consistent approach to allowing the flow of energy during release to consistently move the bow in one direction.
this is due to just that one, SMALL pressure point.
if you have a broader pressure point, or multiple pressure points, you can easily see how consistency becomes much more difficult to achieve. i see this ALL the time with archers who have good shooting potential but are being held back by a bowhand that's "sloppy" and quite inconsistent, and that leads to spraying arrows all over the butt (if the butt indeed gets hit) as opposed to far closer arrow groupings.
there are MANY factors of form that affect consistent accuracy. imho, it all starts with picking up the bow and how ya hold it. it's the first thing we all do before we even reach for an arrow.
We're all different. but I would wager that any of you who haven't quite got your Hill bow dialed in yet would just squeeze your pinkie finger when you shoot, your groups would tighten right up.
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
....the lack of proper instruction as to how these beauties are handled ....
Lack of this instruction .... :(
So, any accomplished Hill shooters in the Northern VA, Washington DC area? Teaching myself is slow going...
And Rik, the pinkie finger thing is helping.
What Rik said. I fought the Hill bow a while trying to hold it kinda throated. I healed down a bit and tightened down the pinky finger as well as the ring finger and the bow calmed some and the arrow flight was better and the shooting more relaxed and consistent.RC
QuoteOriginally posted by RC:
What Rik said. I fought the Hill bow a while trying to hold it kinda throated. I healed down a bit and tightened down the pinky finger as well as the ring finger and the bow calmed some and the arrow flight was better and the shooting more relaxed and consistent.RC
:biglaugh: RC, now that is an understatement if ever I saw one. With all the dead critter pics that I have seen you post, I would say that you have it dialed in, not just "better".
Yup, heel down with a little pinky pressure works well for me to! These bows are made to shoot heel down, mine is anyway, the center of the bow is in the middle of the grip and that is where you want the focus of your pressure. Too high or low and you throw the limbs out of balance.
somethin' like this-
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/P1240004.jpg)
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h121/mandoman_2006/P1240005.jpg)
RC, that's the way I shoot one, too. It's a different than the way I shoot my other bows. I'm pretty good with mine, too. The squirrels around here call me "tchht tchhhhht tchhhhhht", which I think is squirrelese for "the slayer of all my cousins" :)
My Halfbreed is my first Howard Hill bow, but it's not my first Hill-style bow. I know how to shoot one and I know when a grip doesn't feel right to me. This one doesn't, so I'm changing it. I want it to feel natural to me and for my hand to just fall into the correct position.
I guess I'm saying that I think that the grip size itself is important to shooting one of these bows correctly. A proper grip is important, however you do it, and if the size of the grip itself doesn't fit you, you'll end up focusing on it more than you should. That's not to say that a person can't shoot an ill-fitting bow well. I bet Howard Hill could shoot well with any bow. But I also bet that the bows he used the most and counted as his most accurate, fit him specifically. I'd be willing to bet that any good bowyer is going to take into account a client's hand size before he builds a bow for that person.
Great pics showing the grip, Westbrook. It's also good to see someone holding the bow with the right hand. :saywhat:
i was just out shooting, home for the Holiday, I shot an old bear, my wife's Darton Valiant with the lowered grip, her NAT, and one of my own longbows. I tried floating the recurves out on the thumb pad, not for me, the NAT just falls deep in the hand with no thought, tight or loose the grip made no difference to the tennis ball sized groups I was getting with it. When I went to my straight gripped Hill style 'get a hold of it' seems like the only and easiest way to shoot that bow. Tight or soft grips on my straight grip Hill style bows don't seem to make all that much difference, but I tend to hold them tight enough so they don't move in my hand on release. I like a bow that I can just grab and still kill the deer, or small game.
The only grip that was not changed in all of our bows to fit the person is the NAT. Francis did that when he built it. On the Darton, my wife complained about how the bow would not sit still. I lowered the grip, trimmed the far side so it would fit into her hand without her thinking about, and used a satin finish.
The result was five straight years of filling deer tags without a miss, hunting from a stool on the ground with out a blind.
For me, what happened with my target bows and what goes on in my head when I am shooting game requires two separate approaches. I don't want to think about anything except where the arrow needs to go on game, getting the grip just right for my hand is an important part of that.
Pavan, your last sentence sums it up for me.
To anyone with experiance with both,
Does the half breed or redman have a smoother draw?
I'm thinking 70" 44#@28"
QuoteOriginally posted by Sean Butler:
To anyone with experiance with both,
Does the half breed or redman have a smoother draw?
I'm thinking 70" 44#@28"
Sean, I can't imagine you could or would be able to distinguish the difference if there was any...
QuoteOriginally posted by Sean Butler:
To anyone with experiance with both,
Does the half breed or redman have a smoother draw?
I'm thinking 70" 44#@28"
the wood/grass/lams don't matter one bit. the bow length versus your draw length will. and you can be sure craig will tack on 3-6# when the bow gets delivered. :D
Originally posted by Sean Butler:
To anyone with experiance with both,
Does the half breed or redman have a smoother draw?
I'm thinking 70" 44#@28"
___________________________________________________
I have both in the 70" length one at 46# and the other at 48# and I do not distinguish any difference in smoothness of draw
thanks for the pics Westbrook...lookin fine..gripping like Hill said..."get ahold of it, heel the bow"
Rik, yeah, squeezing with the pinky is kinda like heel down. Same thing, same results....dead game on the ground.
Pavan, your last line is why I like my Hill styles....
Guys I just spent a 45 minute session trying to get pictures and verbage into this thread....I messed up and it went to the main Pow Wow forum.. its Labeled Robin Hood Bow @ 30 yards.
Moderator or someone could you please help me move it to this HH bug thread.
Please!
Thanks
Patrick
Hmmmm (he says cogitating a bit), well, I have no experience with the Half Breed but I own 2 Wesley Specials, one Tembo, one Redman, and two Big Five string follow models. No difference in the DRAW feel, but I will say that TO ME both Wesleys have a sweeter, more pleasant feel on release than any of the others. One wesley has a D97 string, the other a dacron, but both feel just as mild on recovery on release. Can't explain it....just saying what is for me.....Dave
This post is made for MT Longbow
These are some pics I took today of a representative 11 arrow group from me @ 30 yards ...somedays better, some days a few more flyers. You can see because Im left eye dominant and I quit doing the squinting thing(this whole group was with both eyes open) and just putting the left arrow image in line with the target...thats the image from my left dominant eye) Im using the split vision I read about in HH Hunting the Hard way book. Its really helped. I just stare at the aiming spot I want to hit and in my secondary vision I put the left arrow image under the target.
As you can see I need to place the left arrow image a bit more to the right for my dominant eye to center the group. I dont shift my vision or focus from my intended place of hitting. in this case I went for the black dot in the center bumble bee. Still learning but it feels much more confident...especially the first cold shot...that one is usually my best shot....which makes me happy.
Anyway Im really getting the grip worked out. I thought Id show everyone my grip and then the open hand picture one is to show where the pressure is from the grip. you can see the red in my palm. , The pinkie and ring finger squeeze is really helping. You can see I get full grip contact and pressure for the entire length of the grip. I feel no handshock gripping the bow. I squeeze like your shaking a good friends hand...thats about the pressure I feel. Firm from front to back...not with the tips of the finger but like Sunset Hill said with the middle pad ..which pushes the bow grip nicely to the rear.
Im shooting a finger stall glove and 605 grain Beman MFX arrows with 200 grains up front. (275 with the brass insert)
Im using the swing draw that was in the Movie "Hitting em like Howard"...thats really made a difference for me from my old habit of holding the bow out pointing at the target and then full draw straight back. Its made the draw easier on the bow shoulder after a long shooting session and given me more consistancy in my shot.
Im no great shooter but I hope this helps some of you looking for some paths to try with your HH bows and that crazy straight grip!!!
Patrick
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2220.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2221.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2218.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2222.jpg)
--------------------
Dan Toelke 64" 49#@28 Whip
Dan Toelke 64" 40#@28Classic Whip
Howard Hill70" 52#@29.5 RobinHood
Double shelf #39 of 50.
Mudd, SIR! Thank you very much for helping me get this post to HH, I appreciate it!
Patrick
roy et al - if the straight handle and straight full strangle bow hand grip works for ya, amen my bruthas 'n' sistas of the AFL.
in this pic, there is little to no string clearance because of the straight bow hand and so an armguard is mandatory ....
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2221.jpg)
... and here, there's a whole buncha palm pressure that plants a wide kiss on the handle face, as seen by the skin coloration ...
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/100_2222.jpg)
lest you think otherwise, this is not a negative or dissing post at all. i'm agreeing that if it works well for ya, no one should tell you otherwise. the straight style DID work fine for me, 'til i found a better way (surely for me, but maybe not you). to each their own and the bottom line is always consistency. :thumbsup:
Mudd where did you get the armguard?
Those aren't my pictures and I didn't make any of the statements either and therefore it isn't my arm guard.
I simply did a favor by copying MT Longbows' post from another thread as he had requested and place a copy here as well.
I am an innocent!!...lol
I am hoping the old adage doesn't prove true here...( no good deed goes unpunished)...lol
God bless,Mudd
Fellas, Fellas, you still need to experience the shot! Dvds, videos and books won't make it happen any sooner!
I can read and watch all the videos on computer use and troubleshooting, etc, and still not be an experienced computer expert!
It don't make a "Hill" of beans what ya know!
You still have to walk the talk! Get out there and shoot some varmits, fish, whatever, like Howard.
Gheese this got twisted in a hurry,
Look , all I wanted to do was try and collect some of the instruction that I have gootten and read about on the HH bows with the straight grip.
Now Thanks to Mudd he helped me get it on the right forum because I meant it for the HH thread, and like a dummy I ended up posting to the general Pow Wow side...my fault, Thank you Mudd.
RDS your points on the armguard while true are well ....not an issue with me as I seldom hit my guard..now I do everyonce and a while but definitely not regularly...and a low brace height of 6.5 inches tends to put the string there. When i shoot my high wrist R&D whips I dont need a guard at all and the brace on those is 7.5" that one inch does make a difference..
RDS , I am VERY interested in a few pics of how YOU hold the bow...I would really like to learn what worked for you (hence a pic or two for a starting point) and then Ill go from there....
The red pressure on my hand was shown specifically to let some guys who , like me, are struggling to find a starting point for the straight grip HH bow. Im sure all the other advanced shooters of these bows have there own technique. Great. Just wanted to help a brother find a starting point and then they go from there.
I get it, all the different grips and techniques, I just know from my own trial and error that a thread like this would have helped me when I first started out. My Hats off to Guys like Sunset Hill who even went the extra mile and made a video to help some brothers..
Nuff said , Im done.
(hope this doesnt sound angry as Im not at all)
Patrick
don't see a twisted thing at all, patrick. sounds liker yer havin' fun and that's the point of all of this stuff. :)
Patrick, I understand where you're coming from. Rob, how about instead of criticizing folks, just put up some pics of how you do it and your results. I know you don't see it as criticism, but that's what it is. You just picked apart Patrick's grip. He didn't ask for any opinions on it. He was simply offering us a glimpse of how he does it and the results he gets. Now, if he had said "Hey, I'd like to tighten up my grouping at 30 yards. Here's a pic of my grip. Any suggestions?", then I think you'd have leeway to offer some potential changes for him to consider.
Now, back to the regular programming...
Patrick, how does that group you posted compare to one you shoot with one of your Toelkes?
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
... Rob, how about instead of criticizing folks, just put up some pics of how you do it and your results. I know you don't see it as criticism, but that's what it is. You just picked apart Patrick's grip. He didn't ask for any opinions on it. He was simply offering us a glimpse of how he does it and the results he gets. Now, if he had said "Hey, I'd like to tighten up my grouping at 30 yards. Here's a pic of my grip. Any suggestions?", then I think you'd have leeway to offer some potential changes for him to consider.
...
cheney,
i'm not criticizing anyone and specify that over and over. i'm offering alternatives to try. all those repeatedly espousing straight handles and grips could be said to be criticizing as well, but they aren't. they're just having a love-fest of their own.
as to pics of my grip and how i shoot all my stick bows, i've shown that a few pages back.
Okay, then. No harm, no foul, as they say.
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
Okay, then. No harm, no foul, as they say.
ah, a perfect way to begin page 200 of the continuing American Flat Longbow saga ... ;)
200 pages and I'm still checking in every day ... man ... I goota get a hobby ...
Umm...thats right I have one ....
We should maybe remember to post new Hill bows etc also maybe on PowWow ? I don't mean everything , nor to the exclusion of the as stated so nicely "lovefest " we have here but 200 pages is pretty intimidating to Hill style newbies and we gotta share the love ...
Maybe ...
Patrick, lookin' good Buddy! that is a purty good 30 yd group. Looks like things are coming together nicely for ya!
Eric
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
Patrick, I understand where you're coming from. Rob, how about instead of criticizing folks, just put up some pics of how you do it and your results. I know you don't see it as criticism, but that's what it is. You just picked apart Patrick's grip. He didn't ask for any opinions on it. He was simply offering us a glimpse of how he does it and the results he gets. Now, if he had said "Hey, I'd like to tighten up my grouping at 30 yards. Here's a pic of my grip. Any suggestions?", then I think you'd have leeway to offer some potential changes for him to consider.
Now, back to the regular programming...
Patrick, how does that group you posted compare to one you shoot with one of your Toelkes?
LOL ! UNFORTUNATELY NOT as good! !LOL
But thats why I keep grabbing my HH when I go shoot....because it still has control over me!!
Happy Memorial Day to all the VETS and current Service members...May we ALWAYS REMEMBER YOUR (and families) SACRIFICES !!
And for the FALLEN...MAY WE ALWAYS REMEMBER.
Patrick
I know most of you use the swing-draw technique when you shoot. I am in the minority of Hill shooters, because I aim before I ever draw the bow.
I learned that I had to do that on elk to keep from spooking them at point-blank range when I draw my bow, and I just stuck with that style of shooting for everything else. It's worked pretty well for me, but it's certainly not for everyone.
For those of you who are curious, the picture below shows what I see before I ever draw my bow. All the aiming is done before I draw.
I slowly ooze the bow into place. Then I pre-aim, which takes less than a second. After that, I simply wait until the time is right to take the shot (for the animal to turn more broadside or look away or something like that).
When the time is right. I draw straight back and shoot, which takes about two seconds. Sometimes on elk I have to hold for 10 seconds or more. I practice holding at full draw all summer long.
I don't think about the aiming because that part has already been done before I drew the string. I simply concentrate on maintaining back tension until the arrow has struck.
Then, and only then, do I stop squeezing my shoulder blades together. I have seen myself on video shoot animals and freeze at full draw for 15 yo 20 seconds after the shot. People think I do that for follow-through, but I am simply freezing in place so the animal doesn't see any movement to be afraid of. I don't move a muscle from the second the arrow launches until the animal is either out of sight or tips over.
For you guys who swing draw, do you get just about the same sight picture shown below when you are about half way drawn, or do you only get the arrow fully on target at full draw?
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/longbow_Sight_Picture.jpg)
i like yer style and pic, rik. :D
This grip talk is really helping. I just think my arrows ain't quite right. just need to keep playing with em.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
I know most of you use the swing-draw technique when you shoot. I am in the minority of Hill shooters, because I aim before I ever draw the bow.
I learned that I had to do that on elk to keep from spooking them at point-blank range when I draw my bow, and I just stuck with that style of shooting for everything else. It's worked pretty well for me, but it's certainly not for everyone.
Rik and all,
Being a newb of a few years with the bow but not hunting, I can see where there is an advantage to both styles of getting to the shot. Nate responded to one of the guys some pages back about getting the bow clear of obstructions and then make the draw. What Rik does is the same thing and it works for him, well, as evidenced by the critters on the ground.
On the other hand, while moving through our hunting territory, if we jump up a deer, rabbit or bird and we have to instinctively make the shot, I can see the merit of the swing draw. I almost stepped on a bedded moose in a dense yew stand during a wet snow fall, as I stepped over a log. The ground was very quiet and visibility was poor. Had I been hunting moose and wanted the shot, an instinctive swing would have been all it would have taken.
In my practice, I primarily swing draw but have worked a little with the bow arm out and arrow on target. I think we should be ready for any situation. Nate had me shooting at a rolled soccer ball a few weeks ago. Good practice on moving targets with the swing. Now, let's go hunting! :archer2:
I take practice shots by half spreading, that is push half of the draw and pull half of the draw. I also practice anchoring first and pushing all of the draw from odd positions. It can come in handy to be able to draw anyway that one needs to for the situation. although i find the the standard 6 to 8 inches of straight back the most useable for most situations.
Rik must really need to get out and get hunting if he has been reduced to hunting cows .....
hehe
I know from past experience that a 52 pound reverse handled Tembo with a cedar tipped with Hill broadhead is a good cow set up.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
Rik must really need to get out and get hunting if he has been reduced to hunting cows .....
hehe
Are you kidding, Ben? Cows are delicious! :)
Just did some broadhead tuning this morning with my self built Hill style. This bow is 64" 52#@28" sleeved takedown. The limb lams are bamboo and the riser is milo, a Hawaiian wood used for building canoes. Black glass on the back and clear on the belly. Arrows are Gamegetter 2016s with 225gr field points on the orange nocked arrows, 125gr Zwickey Eskimos on 100gr adapters on the white nocked arrows. The shots were at 20 yds.
(http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc494/xbmedic/IMG_20110530_103702.jpg)
The upper limb says "Mauna Kea," where I live, and the lower limb says "Pu'u Holoholo," which means "Traveling Hill" in Hawaiian.
(http://i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc494/xbmedic/IMG_20110530_103727.jpg)
I will begin shaping the bow with the Koa riser when I'm not on call starting on Tuesday. Pics will follow.
Al,
Dandy bow and a stellar group to boot! :thumbsup:
I can't wait to see your Koa riser glowing in the sunshine...
****************
The rest of you guys....lately this thread has gelled to a great easy going informative/helpful chat around the campfire.
I really appreciate it!! :notworthy:
I am super impressed with your groups. Al.
Nice looking bow too.
I do have one question, is there another way to do the ends of the handle area near the fades?
I mean can it be feathered?
You've done a much better job than I could ever dream of doing.
God bless,Mudd
Look at the Schulz Naturals, they are more circular at the fades.
I never thought about making them any other way. I just did them the way Dick Wightman did them. I will try to find pictures of the Schulz Naturals. Thanks for the pointers guys!
Couple of things...
If I understand your question, I do feather the fades in, also the power lams. I try to get them transparent thin.. don't always succeed!
I'm going to try a more tear drop shaped back of the riser in the near future and see what that does for my consistency.
I just got back from the Western Regional. Great trip, though very tough courses, physically. Did some good shooting and got a lot of favorable comment on my bows, including from some professionals I really respect, so I guess I'm making progress.
Big event was that I was surprised with the gift of the prototype of Kirk's new D longbow, The Boot Hill". 68" and 30@28, zebra belly and riser and carbon back. The carbon makes it a "Magnum". There'll also be an Express, non-carbon. It's one fast longbow! Took me awhile to get zeroed in with it.
I just finished posting a pic page on the shoot to my web site, includes pix of the bow. Here's a link:
http://tinyurl.com/3grxp25
Great photos Dick!
Thank you for sharin' your trip, the 3D shots, and your new Magnum Outlaw! Sweet!
It would be fun to check that bow out some time!
Enjoy!
Shoot straight, Shinken
:archer2:
After I did the Tradgang Fun Shoot, I decided to back up a ways and shoot the 4 arrows. I ended up shooting from about 36 steps. (http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/DSC_0057.jpg)
The bow is a Hill Halfbreed, 69", 45#@29", I pull it close to 31", so it's about 51# at my draw. Those arrows are some new cedars I got from Magnus. They're 55-60 spine with 125 grain field tips. They weigh right around 550 grains.
I also have a set of 60-65 Surewoods that shoot really nicely with 145 grain heads. They weigh around 620 grains, and, amazingly, hit right with the lighter cedars out to about 40 yards.
I think I'll end up using the Surewoods as my main hunting arrows. They are a little more durable, and seem to hit harder. For some reason, I shoot the heavier arrows better, too.
Al someone sent me a photo as one example of what can be done at the fades.
There may be other methods as well but I don't know what they are.
Shucks! I didn't even think that I knew of this one.
But the second I saw the picture I remembered seeing this bow picture before.
I think I just missed that detail since there was anything to draw my eye to it.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/SunsetHillNaturas.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
That looks great! I have to see if I can do something cool like that on the next one! Thanks, Mudd!
That bow doesn't have belly glass on it, does it? At least not running up the fades?
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
That bow doesn't have belly glass on it, does it? At least not running up the fades?
Looper,
That is a pic of Spanky's bow I believe. If so, it does not have glass on the belly....hence the title "natural" but Nate builds many all glass bows that would look identical on the belly...just with clear glass.
Interesting.
So, does the fiberglass not have to go on top of a flat surface?
Looper,
Yes, the glass needs a flat surface...
here are a couple examples that show the clear glass on the belly:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1306877951.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1306877951.jpg)
Beautiful bows. So how can you have a arch at the end of the fades and it still be flat? Is the fade recessed into the lam below it?
Looper...
It is the linear surface that must be flat (not concave/convex/rounded or otherwise bumpy)...and the clear glass is one continuous piece from the limb tip to the point where you see it (or don't see it) going over the fades, up the sweep to the point where it appears to touch (or slip under) the leather wrap.
I guess the best thing I can tell you here is "a picture is worth a thousand words"
Those are beautiful, Tony or should I say, those are beautiful, Nate! Wow!
I pray for the timid souls of any lost recurve guys who accidentally happen upon this thread.
They may not know it in their hearts yet, but if they have read much of this, and of what is yet to come, they are surely and enexorably hooked by the lure of a Hill bow.
. . . especially if they hunt.
(Much, the Miller's son, would be proud.)
images no wider than 640, please
http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/drawing_on_Big_Ramcopy.jpg
Rik, What do you have in you sights? Looks like a goat.
Rik that is one cool photo!
Did ya get em?
Oops, I thought I had resized that photo, but apparently not. I will try again.
This is a screen shot from a high-resolution DVD filmed in Australia. This hunt is featured on Wayne Preece's Adrenaline Rush II, which has just been released. Right now, they only have PAl versions of the video available, but in the next week or so should have NTSC versions available.
I have not seen the DVD yet, but they did send me a 30-second clip of me sneaking up and shooting my second ram (see screen capture below.) A PAL version is in the mail right now. I am looking forward to it. Apparently, I am the first traditional bowhunter featured in one of Wayne's videos. And if I remember right, I talk a little bit about Howard Hill and Hill bows. We'll see if that part made the cut.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/drawing_on_Big_Ramcopy.jpg)
Luckily I got one of Nate's masterpieces ordered before he had to stop taking orders to catch up. I just found that he will be starting mine soon. I'll post pics when it arrives.
Okie man, I just know I will be green with envy!!
Maybe someday? Only time will tell.
God bless,Mudd
Rik, Nice pics and always enjoy pics of your kills. I was wondering if the quiver on your longbow causes any change in shooting. I`ve had a few longbows mostly r/d where a bow quiver made the arrow seem stiffer. Anybody else noticed this or just me?RC
Ahhh - this is way too much fun!!
And hoping nearly unbearable....LOL
Congratulations Kevin!
:clapper:
Mudd,are you still green with envy? LOL :p
IF I CAN GET SOME ONE TO POST PICS, I WOULD GLADDLY SEND THEM. ANY TAKERS
I would like to get the pics. posted before Sept. when it will get the crimmson Elk blood on it
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowitis:
IF I CAN GET SOME ONE TO POST PICS, I WOULD GLADDLY SEND THEM. aNY TAKERS
Send them, I'll get them up for you.
God bless,Mudd
For those who aren't familiar with our Aussie goats , the two Rik took on that trip are absolutely enormous ... I mean massive !
Well done Rik .
Look forward to the DVD
@ Bowitis ... better learn quickly re the photo's mate coz Sunset Hill pics go a long way to keeping the kids happy ... we are like Gremlins and lack of Hill style bow pics make is a tad crazy ... lol
Congrats , on what by all reports , is a fine fine bow .
I am told that the bow in the middle belongs to Bowitis.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/sunsethill7.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/sunsethill8.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/sunsethill9.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
PS: "Any one in the Market for a BUNCH of Hill bows?" quote Bowitis. I am from Missouri, you'll have to "Show-Me!"...lol
Wow!
They are all beauties!! :thumbsup:
Brother Mudd....don't be getting any crazy ideas....LOL
Roy, Thats It, "STREAK O' LIGHTENINING'
THANKS MUCH!
Those are some handsome bows.
Now, where in the world are all of the Hill shooters in the Tradgang Fun Shoot? Come on fellers.
looper, just went and found the fun shoot thread. Sounds like a lot of fun and good practice. I'll shoot it this evening with the Big-5.
Pete
some day i WILL have a hill. until then, i just drool while looking at all the bows here. don
I posted to the Fun Shoot yesterday. I'm with looper. All of the Hill Brotherhood need to show up in force on that thread!
well I showed up, no force though :cool:
Still trying to get the new shot sequence grooved in, lot's of work to do and not much time. I am finally getting to the point where I can actually shoot the Hill pretty well, just need to get to the point where I don't have to think about every step of the shot.
I think I'll have to get a lower # Hill to help with form work. Darn!
Pete
QuoteOriginally posted by petertschantz:
...
I think I'll have to get a lower # Hill to help with form work. Darn!
Pete
welcome to the cold hard light of reality, pete - you have lots of good company (me!) ... :D
Pete are you bringing your Hill to Ray's? Sean and I are packing ours, don't know that we'll hunt with 'em but we'll be flingin' arrows from them in camp. Sean's workin on some arrows now for his Cheetah and I've got some new ones made up for the Tembos.
Yep, Rick I'll be hunting with it! I shot Sean a PM to let him know he was welcome to shoot it if he wanted to try a 70" Hill, even though it is a little heavier than he is planning on.
The Big-5 is my only bow right now, so if I'm shooting it is a Hill. :D
Pete
Thanks Rob! I think I'm finally on the right track, at least until I can get some coaching. I hope to tend to that this fall sometime. I'm afraid I'm going to have to break down and look for a ~40# bow, darn the luck...
Pete
QuoteOriginally posted by petertschantz:
Thanks Rob! I think I'm finally on the right track, at least until I can get some coaching. I hope to tend to that this fall sometime. I'm afraid I'm going to have to break down and look for a ~40# bow, darn the luck...
Pete
with bow holding weight, there's a limit each of us have that varies with physiology, time and luck.
there's also a low holding weight that if we go below, consistent clean release can be a problem and accuracy will suffer. and there's a good median holding weight that some folks are needless struggling to employ.
however, imho, if you need to go to a lower holding weight to work on form, yer probably overbowed.
if yer current holding weight is just a tad too much (and the word 'tad' is important, because more than a tad may be just too much, and in short order you'll know the difference 'tween 'tad' and 'too much'), begin practicing 'rep drawing' with yer bow 3x daily. that is, without using an arrow, employ what you think is 'good form' and pull the string past yer anchor, to your ear. start off each session easy - pulling just a few times and hold for no more than a second. in
very small increments, increase the reps and holding times a few more every other day. within a few weeks, or months, yer bow will feel SO easy, and yet the release will still be crisp.
i'll tell ya, once you've gone through this rep program, it's pretty much ingrained in yer muscle memory, and barring some serious ailment or quite advanced age, you can lay off pulling string for weeks and then brace up and draw to anchor and it still feels quite easy. iow, for the very most part, once you've made drawing yer bow's weight 'easy' you just don't lose it.
once the holding weight feels easy, then work on form.
Thanks Rob. I can shoot the 50# without problem, holding at full draw for several seconds. I think in large part getting a lower # bow for form work is just a handy excuse. However, as I am already dealing with some arthritis, using a lower # for practice & maybe some 3d is probably a good idea. I'll try your idea on reps just to help build strength, sounds like a great idea.
Pete
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by petertschantz:
Thanks Rob! I think I'm finally on the right track, at least until I can get some coaching. I hope to tend to that this fall sometime. I'm afraid I'm going to have to break down and look for a ~40# bow, darn the luck...
Pete
with bow holding weight, there's a limit each of us have that varies with physiology, time and luck.
there's also a low holding weight that if we go below, consistent clean release can be a problem and accuracy will suffer. and there's a good median holding weight that some folks are needless struggling to employ.
however, imho, if you need to go to a lower holding weight to work on form, yer probably overbowed.
if yer current holding weight is just a tad too much (and the word 'tad' is important, because more than a tad may be just too much, and in short order you'll know the difference 'tween 'tad' and 'too much'), begin practicing 'rep drawing' with yer bow 3x daily. that is, without using an arrow, employ what you think is 'good form' and pull the string past yer anchor, to your ear. start off each session easy - pulling just a few times and hold for no more than a second. in very small increments, increase the reps and holding times a few more every other day. within a few weeks, or months, yer bow will feel SO easy, and yet the release will still be crisp.
i'll tell ya, once you've gone through this rep program, it's pretty much ingrained in yer muscle memory, and barring some serious ailment or quite advanced age, you can lay off pulling string for weeks and then brace up and draw to anchor and it still feels quite easy. iow, for the very most part, once you've made drawing yer bow's weight 'easy' you just don't lose it.
once the holding weight feels easy, then work on form. [/b]
Rob....good sound advice and so true by experience..."muscle memory" is way important in consistency.
Huh! Page 2, no, back to the front, please!
Reverse handle Hills, do ya have one? Please Show it! Don't hide in the Closet :D
I for one don't like a reverse handle longbow. But, that's just me so, show 'em if ya got 'em. :)
Yeah, thats right TW, Show 'm if ya got 'm.
Good to see ya lurking! :bigsmyl:
it's purely aesthetic subjectiveness, but i cringe whenever i see a reverse handle hill ... ouch! :eek:
!["" "[dntthnk]"]("graemlins/dntthnk.gif")
:p :cool: :D
Oh ya, I'm still around but, been working on my shooting and trying to get ready for the upcoming season. Opening day for me is last weekend in August so, times closing fast. Not going to elk hunt this year so, concentrating on deer only.
Good to see ya setting your priorities. Best to ya!
Howard supposedly shot one in Japan. One of the best shots I have seen, was at the MLI in 1988, with a Shultz's reverse handle bow. He was from Conn., not for sure of his name!
He could shoot the eyes out of a skeeter!
Cringe, no, he could shoot! Howard didn't say which side the handle had to be on! :D
Funny thing, I have never owned a reverse handle hill but have always liked the looks of them as well. Guess they are not considered to be "normal" therefore never gained or maintained a following.
Likewise, I am not considered to to be normal...and certainly won't gain a following per se, though many friends may come my way.
No cringe here either but I have no immediate plans to get one. My HH Half Breed and Osage Royale will keep me busy for a few weeks till, with any luck at all, I will get long white tube in the mail holding a dandy bow that will perfectly round out my trio....
The great thing happening is this complete overhaul of my long-lived archery experience. Having shot most everything that had a string, I am pursuing a long and nearly lost passion. Will shoot Hills exclusively...till I cannot stand or pull a string.
See y'all in the States soon enough! You'll find me on the hardwood ridges and the southern swamps - anywhere from northern Michigan to Florida.... the passes and deep gorges of the greatest mountain systems in the world from New York to Washington State.
It is time to have some fun!
:archer2:
I think it's important for me to step up and be an interpreter for Tony...lol
Over the last few months Tony and I have developed a genuine friendship via yahoo messenger. The norm has become that we talk about twice each day, once in the morning(Tony's evening) and then again during my evening(Tony's morning).
I think it important that whoever reads Tony's post (immediately before this) understand (as I do now) that his use of the word "dandy" carries with it great weight with him.
"Dandy" for Tony is used as one of his strongest outward expressions of approval or praise.
I just thought you should know so now feel free to go back and re-read his message for a truly better understanding of the person of Tony Van Dort.
I had the pleasure of having here and shooting both of his bows. They have been shipped to a place that Tony can put his hands on them almost immediately upon his arrival back to his own home country.
I say.. albeit a little early.. Welcome Home Tony!
God bless,Mudd
I've done several forward riser HS bows, based on John Schulz bows I've had. I like 'em. Like string follow, the forward riser moves the hand forward and seems to make the bow a bit more forgiving. Here are a couple of pix of Forward Scout, my first one:
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/rr77.jpg)
This one was taken before the finish was on...
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/rr70.jpg)
This one was of the finished bow, which was built for a bow swap.
Real nice, Dick! :bigsmyl:
Not a Hill, but I like My Northern Mist Whisper. As the name implies, very quiet to shoot and very instinctive pointing. Neat bow....my first ever reverse handle. Due to the fact that the bow hand sits so much closer to the lams, it is virtually impossible to torque this kind of bow.
(http://i796.photobucket.com/albums/yy241/davidmitchell_6466/Northern%20Mist%20Whisper/NMWhisper.jpg)
I agree wholeheartedly on the Whisper. I've had one for several years now and it's virtually impossible to torque that bow. And deadly quiet too. Also, having had several of Steve Turay's Northern Mist longbows, there is no better crafted bow out there.
Hey Rob. On what page are the pics of your grip. I can't find them for some reason. I know they are out there somewhere. Thanks.
QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
Hey Rob. On what page are the pics of your grip. I can't find them for some reason. I know they are out there somewhere. Thanks.
is this what yer looking for?
typical straight "choke" grip, with heeled palm pressure ............ versus ............ single thumb base pressure point grip
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/gr1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/gr2.jpg)
All right longbowmen of the world, there's a new round in the fun shoot. A Halfbreed won the last one, so let's keep a Hill in the top spot.
Reverse handle bows eliminate most torque and shoot great. My hand is shaped funny so I shoot them well once settled, but the standard hill grip with a regular riser fits me best. I thought about a teardrop grip custom on a reverse handle, but don't want to risk a bow that I cant shoot, and nobody else would want...
I did just get my Miller split bamboo longbow in the mail!!! I can't wait to shoot some arrows tomorrow. High gloss finish, straight grip, 45#@28" and so damn cool. I have several glass bows and thought something a bit different would be fun!
Matt,
That is cool! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Lets have a look-see and maybe a review of some kind.
Congrats on your new bow.
I got a call yesterday and should have my Miller "Old Tom" by then end of the month.
That was it Rob. Thanks for posting it again.
Hi Mike, How are you and your Hill getting along?
God bless,Mudd
My dad has 2 reverse handle northern mist whispers. He has wrist problems with arthritis and he torques standard hill bows, so he switched. He really likes them and I think they shoot great once I get settled. One is lamboo and the other is elm or ash cores with beautiful maple back and belly.
Howdy Mudd. My Hill(s) and I are getting along just fine, thank you. That Cheetah is a beautiful piece. Not many native woods can match the beauty of Juniper. To be honest I haven't been shooting much lately, but I need to get back into it. Gonna try applying Rob D's grip to my form. Wish me luck. Hope you're well.
Which page of this thread does RDS describe his HH grip style...Pics??
Thanks
in the following rap, i am NOT telling anyone how THEY should shoot a stick bow. i'm explaining, in my own thoughts and words, how and why i approach holding a longbow at full draw.
imho, in the best of all worlds, there should be one pressure point of contact 'tween the back of the bow handle, as close to the arrow shelf as possible to reduce any unwanted leverage, and some single point of the bowhand's palm.
no, not the entire palm of the hand, just one point. if you reference asbell's latest gem, 'advanced instinctive shooting for bowhunting', you'll see the best general area for the bowhand pressure point nicely depicted. the sweet spot is somewhere 'tween the thumb and forefinger, and at or about the base of the thumb.
once you have found that sweet pressure point spot (which should be almost too easy to feel), the rest of the hand - the palm and fingers - exert ALMOST ZERO PRESSURE on the handle. this allows the bow to pivot on your bow hand's pressure point and will prevent the common 'heeling' of the bowhand on release that cause so many bad arrows.
the bowhand's forefinger and thumb touch, thus holding the bow from punching out of yer bowhand upon release.
this type of bowhand pressure point also allows the bottom of the bowhand (pinky et al) to angle slightly away from the riser/arrow shelf, which gives lots of bowstring clearance on release. it also demands that you need to do what you should be doing all the time - using yer back muscles to 'push-pull' as you aim and release - this is absolutely critical for all archers, targeteers and hunters ... most archers fail to use their back muscles and their efforts are relegated to hit and miss, mostly miss..
you can use this type of single pressure point grip with most any type of handle grip - straight, dished, soft locator or recurve pistol. all serious target archers use a single pressure point grip. it's simply the most consistent of all ways of shaking hands with a bow handle. there is NO reason why a bowhunter couldn't/shouldn't employ this same single pressure point grip style. there's nothing unwieldy about it that excludes the bowhunting community and *many* bowhunters use it - some without even knowing.
it is easier to find that pressure spot with a soft locator grip. you can wrap a straight grip with one turn of 1/8" leather right under where your pressure is located for quicker reference, as mentioned by mr. asbell.
i won't talk about the wrist or bow arm placements. those are matters for each of us to suss out and decide what's best. what works for me may not work for you, in those two criteria.
however, the 'single point of bow handle/bow hand' matter is, imho, irrefutable - it's physically the most consistent approach to allowing the flow of energy during release to consistently move the bow in one direction.
this is due to just that one, SMALL pressure point.
if you have a broader pressure point, or multiple pressure points, you can easily see how consistency becomes much more difficult to achieve as that type of grip is too easy to "float" the bow hand's pressure point at various locations on the bow handle, thus adding variable torque to the release. i see this ALL the time with archers who have good shooting potential but are being held back by a bowhand that's "sloppy" and quite inconsistent, and that leads to spraying arrows all over the butt (if the butt indeed gets hit) as opposed to far closer arrow groupings. the same is true for archers that are decent to pretty darn good "shots" but have those occasional "flyers" or who have good and bad accuracy days. look to the bow hand.
there are MANY factors of form that affect consistent accuracy. imho, it all starts with picking up the bow and how ya hold it. it's the first thing we all do before we even reach for an arrow.
hope some of this rap makes for more consistent shooting for some of you good folk.
typical straight "choke" grip, with heeled palm pressure ............ versus ............ single thumb base pressure point grip
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/gr1.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/gr2.jpg)
RDS..do you use this grip style on your straight grip Hill bows? when I do, my bow really rings after the shot. NOT picking...just asking!!!
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
RDS..do you use this grip style on your straight grip Hill bows? when I do, my bow really rings after the shot. NOT picking...just asking!!!
i employ this grip on all bows, no matter what the style or handle grip shape.
by 'ringing', you mean 'vibrations', correct?
As I attempt to learn this "grip" (no expert for sure) I am coming to the point of understanding that the "hill grip" is a overall even pressured hold, paying particular attention to two things:
First, the "grip it like a suitcase handle" was a quote of a pretty decent archer in his day..so it seems like a good place to start.
The second thing coming to light for me in recent posts here...play with the pressure of the first finger and the pinky finger to lessen or negate vertical torque. (my words) translated "control the bow - don't let the bow control you"
Additionally I have heard in this thread many times in relation to the "shock" factor, that the grip seems to be the controller of energy (harmonics..?) which is what we feel (or don't feel)or hear upon release and is obviously much more critical in the hill-type bows.
String type and or brace height can add to your troubles as well. Mudd played with my Half Breed shooting it with the string that came with the bow..he said it "vibrated" more than his HB so he put on a different FF string and it quieted down to nearly dead silent...
In my mind I can see how shifting the point of pressure from any point at the hand's web to the base of the palm in line with the pinky finger will effectively change the tiller - making the upper or lower limb handle uneven energy in the release...does this make sense??
Rob has his own method and style. His point of eliminating the pressure of a "choke" grip and transferring as much of the wt of the draw to a single, and smaller point of contact makes perfect sense to me because that is the way I have shot my curves and r/d longbows in the past...but have never shot a straight handle and now, when I "heel down", the recipe changes including my draw length - even drastically (3").
Rob's looks to me to be a great marriage of styles and it apparently works just dandy for him and, like he has said many times, figure out what works best for you and do it.
This process of finding what works best for me will include the boiling down all of the collective experience of those of you who have played this game for years.
I thank you all for making the effort to share your experience...it is all good and necessary...imo
good discussion points, tony.
imo no, not "control the bow - don't let the bow control you". for me it's more like "don't try to control the bow, as it can be like trying to grab a tiger by the tail".
consistency comes from doing as little as possible to control forces that are far greater than we can realistically control *consistently*.
i give the bow "head" and allow it to do its thing. my bow hand is there not to control the bow, but to allow it to repeatedly react the same way, shot after shot. think of the bow hand as part of a shooting machine. how do shooting machines hold a bow? basically, one point of contact. as much as possible, we need to be shooting machines. heck, we ARE shooting machines!
if you have more than one bow hand pressure point, you will sooner or later torque the bow. no one's that good, not even hh himself. :D i'll wager hh's massive strength did much to actually "control the bow", tame it to his will. he's one of the few exceptions to the rules of physics.
a smaller spot of bowhand pressure point means far less excess string/limb energy rolling back into your hand/arm/shoulder/brain. so the limbs appear to be vibrating more. and typically, they are - 'cause some of that wasted energy isn't coming back at you. and as always, it pays to employ a decent weight arrow .....
I shot my first 3d tourney yesterday, nice to see a Hill take the trad class!
okay, would have been cooler if there had been others shooting trad, but I still had a blast!
Pete
In my experience, how a bow is tillered will determine where the best pressure point needs to be. I agree with Rob that the smallest area of pressure is the best, but, if the pressure point is in an area that allows one limb to release earlier than the other, you'll get hand shock. My Halfbreed has a sweet spot right in the middle of the grip. I need to shoot that bow with heel pressure in that location. I end up squeezing lightly with my middle and ring fingers. I know it's not ideal, but if I shoot with the pressure higher on the grip, I can tell a difference. The bow is I think the real key is to be consistent.
When I tiller a bow, I have to make sure that the bow handle is in the correct place on the ledge of the tiller tree and that the hook is on the right spot on the string. My first bows (self bows), I just centered the handle on the ledge, and hooked the string where my middle finger would go (I shoot split). I'd then tiller the limbs to where they would release at the same time. I use a bulbous handle, which I like a lot better than the typical hill grip. My favorite self bows were/are very dead in my hand at the shot.
My Halfbreed, when put on my tiller tree, has a balance point right in the middle of the handle. If I move the balance point higher on the grip, the limbs don't release the same.
In contrast, my bows with locator grips, have a balance point in relation to the locator. They shoot the best with the grip Rob uses. If you use heel pressure on them, it throws the timing off.
One thing I have found, though, is that if I shoot my Hill with a 3 finger under grip, the bow shoots better with a bow hand pressure point higher up on the grip. I just prefer to shoot split finger.
At any rate, my Halfbreed is one fun bow to shoot. I'm in the process of picking a bow to hunt with exclusively this year, and it's running neck and neck with a new BBO.
QuoteOriginally posted by petertschantz:
I shot my first 3d tourney yesterday, nice to see a Hill take the trad class!
okay, would have been cooler if there had been others shooting trad, but I still had a blast!
Pete
Where was this tournament?
Didn't Ashbell advocate a different grip (heel down) for longbow handles? I always thought most longbows were tillered for a pressure point in the middle of the handle, where recurves are tillered for a pressure point at the deepest part of the grip.. While I agree the most forgiving type if grip would be with the pressure all at the base of the thumb, I wonder how many longbows are actually tillered to be shot that way.
bow tiller ...
yes, a bow should be tillered at the pressure point and for the style of string grip, and at the right place on the string for the tillering hook. it does pay to make a simple tillering tree and check yer bow, and if it's off, send it to a competent bowyer to retiller it for you. after having a gajillion hills, i now have but one, "sheba" the tembo, and i was specific to craig about how i shoot, how to shape sheba's handle, and how to tiller the beastie. he did precisely what i asked.
on a side note, if i ever need craig to shape me another longbow, i'll be sending him my easton digital bow scale to take all necessary draw weight readings. seriously. :readit: :saywhat:
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
Where was this tournament?
looper, it was in Ft. Mill, SC. There is a weekly 3d circuit up here, rotates between several clubs in the Charlotte, NC area.
Pete
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
[QB
on a side note, if i ever need craig to shape me another longbow, i'll be sending him my easton digital bow scale to take all necessary draw weight readings. seriously. :readit: :saywhat: [/QB]
LOL...you ain't the only one! Maybe we could all pitch in and buy him one...it'll save us all the guessing.
BTW, no disrespect intended - Craig and company does a dandy job!!
Just order 3-4 pounds less...RC
QuoteOriginally posted by Swamp Yankee:
While I agree the most forgiving type if grip would be with the pressure all at the base of the thumb, I wonder how many longbows are actually tillered to be shot that way.
That was one of my questions...and it seems that the hills as they are built need the heel down to move the pressure point to the point of balance....if indeed balance is needed. That could explain why I had trouble with the hand shock years ago that turned me off to the hills.
This thread is full of miles of good stuff!!
Rob: From the pic of your grip, it seems your point of pressure is much higher, even to the mild locator...it that true or do you think it is more towards the center of the grip?
anybody/everybody chime in here if you can...I'd like to see this thing boiled down a bit so we can all understand what is really going on.
as best as i can place it graphically, my bow hand pressure point ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/hand1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/hand2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/hand3.jpg)
Fellas take heed of what Rob is telling you here .When this thread first started and I got back into HH bows my shooting was completely erratic ,since adopting Robs advise my shooting of these bows has improved ten fold.Last night I scared myself how well I was shooting,I never thought I would shoot my Hill bow that well,KUDUS my friend.
This discussion of how we grip the bow has been interesting, to say the least. As I look at Rob's picture, my spot would be about an inch lower and slightly left of what he has indicated. I don't grip very hard and the index finger of my bow hand just sort of floats there while my pinky, ring finger and middle finger do the holding. All of the pressure is on the one point at the base of my thumb which gives the full strength of the entire arm bone behind it - little or no muscle, just the bone. That point does pretty well center the handle of my Hills, but I shoot my other r/d bows the same way, which is why I favor a straight grip (or very slight locator).
I don't know how much effect the tiller has on this, but I'm sure there is some because I could never shoot bows with a recurve style grip without changing my entire wrist position.
If I recall correctly when Craig sends out a blank for finishing he marks where the shelf is to go and also gives a mark for the center of the bow. I presume that center is the balance point from which he tillers, but I have not checked either of my blanks with a tiller tree. I just count sanding strokes and check to be sure the string stays centered and that there is about 3/16" difference in tiller between upper and lower limbs at the fadeout. That seems to have worked well for the ones I have done.
Rob is correct. For best performance, the bow must be tillered based on where and how much pressure you put on the grip/handle. The old style longbows...aka English, self, Hill style, etc. are designed for a full hand pressure against the belly of the grip. Since about the middle of last century, with more contoured grips being the norm on recurves and r/d bows, the majority of shooters employ a smaller point of contact from the hand to the bow. I believe this is because of the inherent tendency of thin recurve limbs to twist if the bow is torqued. Hence the old-mainstay popularity of a thick limbed longbow and it's twist-resistent limbs. Also, a contoured handle lends itself to this grip method. However, as Rob D's experience bears out, having a straight limb style bow tillered to the shooter's own shooting and grip style can result in a good shooting bow. Tillering and timing the bow for a full hand style of grip versus a small contact point grip makes a world of difference in how the bow will shoot.
Byron Fergeson uses a low wrist full contact grip, and his bow handles are dished pretty radically and he uses a loose, open hand style grip. Another example of how a straight limb bow can be modified to fit individual shooting styles. :thumbsup:
I think we're all saying the same thing.
YEP!!! my HH bow is tillered as it is for the straight grip , low wrist pressure for the lower limb, last night I gave it some more pressure in my grip and held it tight...I layed the bow over a bit to fix my hitting left (if you remember form my last post at 30 yards and viola....even better groups and centered this time...shot 110 (11 arrrows x 10 trips to the target bag) and was impressed with the improvement...***This HH Robin Hood DEMANDS a firmer grip than I was giving her and after that she was even more accurate....*** I love it!
Lesson Learned hang in there and dont quit on the bow...keep working until you find how she wants to be held and danced with...when you find that....sear it into your muscle memory and DANCE!!
Guys, I would add some photos as well but my broken wrist won't let me. I am hoping for a full recovery so I can shoot again period. This has been a good thread. I am glad to see people showing what works for Them. Flint
Flint,
sad to hear....I'm sure your Miller has been lonely....unless you pick it up from time to time and caress it gently..... ;)
Nate, I can still fling my back quiver on a get arrows out by the nock so not all is wasted. I see the ortho today so we will see what he says surgery or recast it.
Uh, who dropped the BOW! Keep this up top, please!
Okay, let bring up other "Hill" Style bows. I'll start with Dave Johnson's Cedar bows from Bethany, Ok! Anyone have pics? I really like these, wish I had one!
I laughed when I saw your pics, Rob. The biggest error I see people make with not liking Hill bows is the grip. People either can't figure them out, or can't get used to shooting with the grip that will likely work well for them. I like the grip straight, or very nearly straight so my hand doesn't collapse into looking like your photo on the left. Generally I would say a reverse handle bow will allow more of the first hand placement pic because the torque is reduced, but the arrow spine will differ from the shooter with your second hand position (right pic), where there is less torque and a cleaner arrow upon release. My hand is shaped different so it kind of looks like a mix of the two, but I can say that there is really no contact on the right side of the bow (rt handed shooter) other than my thumb wrapping around. The fat or muscle of my thumb is only pressured on the very belly of the grip, and around the shelf side. Also, very close below the shelf. The bow doesn't torque, is silent, and consistent. Also minimal vibration. Some variation of your pic on the right, although it may feel funny, will usually end up being the ticket in the long run.
I also like the added photos of where you are pointing out the pressure point of the bow on your hand...well defined and I can't agree more.
I remember the day I was shooting and my hand got sweaty and kind of rotated around to the shelf side of the bow and %&$%&!! I was shooting groups like I have never before! It turned out that my pressure ended up in the right spot. What a difference, lesson learned. I started to experiment with different bows and grips and found that hill straight grips allowed me to hold it to my advantage and I can just shoot them the best. Everyone may have subtle differences in anatomy and feel that dictates which shape grip they find most effective.
Overspined, I agree totally with your discovery. Years and years ago I picked up a Hill bow at an archery centre and shot two arrows. I thought that this has got to be the hardest shocked shooter I have ever tried and that was it - no more HH. As years went by, I gravitated back to the straight grip, straight limbed longbows, tightened down on the grip, moved my hand out s bit to the side so the pressure was more as Rob indicates, and " voila! consistency was back and shooting is fun!
Guys,
if any of you haven't seen Schulz's video..."Hitten 'em like Howard Hill" and would like to watch the video, Chuck at Two Tracks is done with my copy and is willing to ship to whoever wants it next...just pay for the shipping to the next guy when you're finished....
Nate
One of my old favorites that I let get away from me a couple of times is back home.
I have been waiting for her arrival to shoot this weeks round in the TG fun shoot.
Just to refresh RC's mind at what she looks like, here is my Howard Hill Cheetah 66" 56@28 aka "Keeper Kat".
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/An%20Archery%20Shoot/DSC01562.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/An%20Archery%20Shoot/DSC01561.jpg)
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/An%20Archery%20Shoot/DSC01560.jpg)
These were shot according to this weeks rules.
10 yards, crouching with the bow held parallel to the ground without any warm up shots.
I set up two barrels and put a timber from one to another to simulate the hunting conditions described for us.
The arrow at the top was my 1st fired out of "KK" in months.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/An%20Archery%20Shoot/DSC01563.jpg)
These are the next 3.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/An%20Archery%20Shoot/DSC01564.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
Mudd, I sure hope you hang on to that one this time!
Pete
Mudd,I can't believe your Cheetah has the exact specs as mine ,they are shooters !Very good shooting my friend!
Nice arras and fine shootin!
I went all out today, striped the feathers off a shaft, and moved my hands all over the place to find what makes'em fly straight. I used to shoot like this, wrapping my hand around it and shooting. (http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_4157.jpg)
My hand like this makes'em fly a lot straighter. (http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_4156.jpg)
Very subtle difference but all I did was cock my bow hand to the right about 25deg from vertical. This allows the handle to "ride" in the "taco valley" of my hand. Point your thumb and 4 fingers of your bow hand straight out and form a "U" shape, now tilt your wrist back towards your face, look in between the digits valley that is produced.
Eye candy with the good light shine'in down. (http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_4162.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by swampthing:
Eye candy with the good light shine'in down. (http://i688.photobucket.com/albums/vv247/pukingguts/DSC_4162.jpg)
Beautiful bow and picture of it!!
God bless,Mudd
I will try that subtle change tomorrow.
Thanks and WHAT A BEAUTY!!!!
Patrick
Nice shootin Mudd!
One double lunger and three into the boiler..
Was that a crouch or on your knees?
crouch!
and it was easy for this old fat man either...lol
God bless, Mudd
Swampthing, I think the second grip looks pretty good. Don't be afraid to play a little bit more when you are fresh. Try to get the feel of that thumb knuckle pressure point as Rob shows, you can squeeze the grip, but you don't have to. Just get that grip right and you will find quiet release, good arrow flight (assuming spine is right) and a settled bow with just a tiny bit of vib in comparison to a R/D bow. It can take some monkeying around.
Swampthing...
that exact grip, the second photo, is exactly what Hill and Schulz preached, which I try to follow and teach. Nothing against what works for other shooters, but with the bowhandle in that position in the "Y" between the thumb and first finger, you can actually open your fingers and shoot. You don't need a death grip on the bow to keep it in position. All the lower finger pressure does with your hand in that position is keep the heel down and keep the bow from flying out of your hand upon release....kinda like a bowsling...
If you squeeze your fingers toward the bowback (with the finger pads between the knuckles, not the finger tips), you are squeezing 180 degrees from the belly of the grip....therefore you aren't torquing the bowgrip. When you grip the bow like photo 1, it's hard not to grip the bow with the fingertip pressure in order to control the bow and that will torque the bow with the heel down grip style.
looking very good swampthing....no wonder your arrows flew straight. It's actually pretty simple stuff. You grip a straight grip longbow just like a hammer handle. mucho control and shock absorption....try hitting a nail on the head while gripping the hammer like your first photo.....it makes your wrist very tired....lol
Beeyooteefull bow, Swampthing. And your second grip photo, looks just like my grip.
Mudd, now that you have found the one, just go ahead and send me those other bows. I hate to see a man suffer with temptation so close at hand. On second thought, make sure they can handle a 31" draw, no sense in giving them false hope. Nice shooting, by the way. I think your first shot would have gotten that hogs attention just the right amount.
Looper,
I've got an idea for the next fun shoot, but I'm not real good at the photobucket thing...talk to me....it'd be a real-life shooting test perfect for stickbows....
I'm all up for good ideas. The thing is, though, that the winner of the round gets to decide which shot to take. So, for this week, go shoot a score higher than a 32, and I'll help you develop your idea. :) You've got til Friday evening to post a score. Mudd almost had it.
If you're talking about doing an entirely new fun shoot, I'm up for that, too. We could do it in conjunction with this one, or wait until it plays out and start a new one.
I really like to practice real life shots. Tonight, for instance, I missed a shot on a coyote. I was on my knees and he came trotting by at about 27 yards. I made a good shot, but that bugger dodged my arrow. I mean literally. I shaved some fur off the front of his chest. He had no idea I was there and right as the arrow got to him, he made like Barry Sanders, and juked right out of the way. The funny thing is that he didn't run off, he just bounded a few steps away and went back and sniffed the arrow. He caught me moving when I went to knock another arrow and sneaked away. He couldn't figure out what I was, so he went about 50 yards and sat on a little hill and stared at me for about a minute. He just sat there like a dog would sit at your side.
After a little while he stood up and started to go downwind of me. The neighbor's dog saw him and started barking and spooked him off.
I was really pleased with the shot, though. It came off exactly like I wanted and went exactly where I was looking.
Oh, and keeping with the theme of this thread, I was shooting a Hill Halfbreed 69" 45#@29# drawn to just shy of 31". The arrow was a 620 gr surewood 60-65 full length, with a 145 gr Eclipse broadhead.
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
Looper,
I've got an idea for the next fun shoot, but I'm not real good at the photobucket thing...talk to me....it'd be a real-life shooting test perfect for stickbows....
If you need me to, I can walk you through the photobucket process. It's really pretty simple. In the mean time, if you have a pic you want to post, just email it to me or Mudd and we'll put it up for you.
Just last week following some prodding by Mudd, and after much procrastination, I did a search and found a cool and easy alternative to PhotoBucket.
It is called Imagelinky.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=102487#000000
Whew, after a week-long vacaton, I am worn out!
I spent the last week visiting an old friend on Vancouver Island in British Columbia. He is a fellow Hill Fanatic, and amongst other things, has quite a collection of Howard Hill bows.
Every day we grabbed a few bows and went shooting prior to the day's canoeing or hiking trip.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/six_Hill_Bows_in_Hand.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/six_hill_Bows.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/six_hill_bows_Closeup.jpg)
I am sure none of you will be surprised to learn they all shot extremely well. Shooting feathers off was the game of the day.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Two_Hill_Bows.jpg)
P.S. British Columbia is a BEAUTIFUL PLACE!
Rik... How cool was that?... Way!... I'm saying....
Thanks for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
awesome showcase of longbows, rik! :thumbsup:
Very nice mob of bows, Rik!
I really like um. :bigsmyl:
Ok ok, I really think its time for a Hill sub forum :readit:
208 pages that's got to be some sort of a record! Although I'm not a Hill style fan, The interest is awesome. :archer:
Awesome like up there Rik! Thanks for sharing. Makes me squirmy to get in the woods. :thumbsup:
The fourth bow from the left ... I want I want I want ..... !!!
Ben,
That bow is the second from the bottom in the first picture. It's the finest looking longbow I have ever seen, and I put close to 500 arrows through it.
Craig told my friend that it is "dark bamboo." It is laminated bamboo, not the standard flat bamboo lamination like my bows are. The handle and tip overlays are beautiful, highly contrasting bacote.
I have never seen a better looking bow, period. I would love to chronograph it to see if it shoots as well as standard bamboo, but I can tell you this, it puts a heavy ash shaft exactly where I am looking, and it hits hard.
I might be able to show a close-up photo later, but I have to get unpacked. I got home at 11:30 last night, and had to get up at 5:30 to go to work. Gotta catch up first. . .
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Ben,
Craig told my friend that it is "dark bamboo." It is laminated bamboo, not the standard flat bamboo lamination like my bows are. The handle and tip overlays are beautiful, highly contrasting bacote.
Looks like what the folks here are calling "caramelized" bamboo...here is a pic of the lower limb belly of my half breed:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1307681643.jpg) (http://images.imagelinky.com/1307681643.jpg)
Here is a picture of the dark bamboo bow I mentioned earlier, but unfortunately the photo does not do it justice.
Prior to seeing this bow, I had thought I would not like the look of the laminated bamboo, but the laminations on this bow are so subtle and blend so well that most people would never realize it is laminated bamboo. I was impressed.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/bamboo_hill_Dark.jpg)
Is the laminated bamboo intended for more contrasting colors and textures vs. a strength issue?
unless previous stained (which doesn't work well with bamboo), darkened 'boo/cane means it's been *significantly* heat tempered. as seen on 'sheba', my recent craig built tembo ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tembo3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/sheba.jpg)
Rob,
Do you notice any performance differences between the laminated bamboo and the normal bamboo?
What does Craig say about how the two types of bamboo compare performance-wise?
QuoteOriginally posted by smoke1953:
Is the laminated bamboo intended for more contrasting colors and textures vs. a strength issue?
'lamboo' or 'actionboo' is multi strip edge grained flooring. there is a lot of glue used as the glued strips are 1/8" to 1/4", so the limb weight is a bit more than with solid bamboo due to the glue joints. laminated limb boo is said to add limb speed/arrow speed, as well as 'stability and strength' to the limbs. i dunno about all that.
i have a lamboo limbed longbow and it shoots just fine, all my other longbows have tempered solid boo/cane limbs, and they're no dogs either. there was some bowyer talk awhile back about lamboo failures, i dunno the reason why or what became of all that. there are lotsa laminated boo limbed bows out there, don't hear of any failures. ymmv.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob,
Do you notice any performance differences between the laminated bamboo and the normal bamboo?
hard to tell unless two identical bows were carefully crafted, one with lamboo and the other solid boo. as mentioned above about my bows, i don't see a startling difference 'tween the two core types, but that's don't mean much as my longbows are reasonably different.
What does Craig say about how the two types of bamboo compare performance-wise?
when he built my tembo bow blank he sandwiched solid boo over a center core of lamboo, and didn't tell me he was doing that - later he told me that was to "add speed".
I'm just a little confused, which is quite easy for me, regarding "standard flat lamination" vs. "laminated bamboo" terminology used in Rik's post.
QuoteOriginally posted by smoke1953:
I'm just a little confused, which is quite easy for me, regarding "standard flat lamination" vs. "laminated bamboo" terminology used in Rik's post.
a 'normal' limb lamination of any kind wood or grass (bamboo cane) is solid, one piece, rectangular - typically 36" or 72" in length and 2" wide, with varying thicknesses.
'lamboo' and 'actionboo' are limb laminations that are themselves laminations of many smaller width/height strips that form a rectangular limb lamination to the dimensions shown above.
Thanks. Somehow I missed your post at 11:05, sorry I made you repeat yourself.
Here is my Big 5
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/sbennett_01/Howard%20Hill%20Big%205/IMG_0498.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/sbennett_01/Howard%20Hill%20Big%205/IMG_0501.jpg)
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l88/sbennett_01/Howard%20Hill%20Big%205/IMG_0489.jpg)
I realize it's not a Hill but, see the link below to my new Steve Abbott longbow. Makes a nice "D" shape when strung and shoots pretty darn good.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=104901
I don't have a pic, but I shoot a 70" Wesley Special,65#@28", CocoBolo riser and a locator grip.
Finally will be getting the bow of my dreams. Nate said my Sunset Hill is in the works now. White belly glass and clear on the back. 66" 53# at my draw give or take a few lbs. I'll post some pics when it arrives.
I know this is a change of subject but I know there are more guys out there watching this thread like me who are trying to get a handle on a hill bow. Now I had never done this with my recurves or RD bows before even though I knew about it. Today I started my practice by shooting into a hay bale at 5 feet with my eyes closed for 10 arrow then 10 arrow eyes open. Shooting one arrow and pulling. Then I moved back and was driving tacks as my form was way way better. I believe that I will start all of my practices this way for a while then go back to the cold shot scenario getting ready for season. Just a reminder to all of those like me, do the little stuff, you have to walk before you run.
I also have used the blind bale as a method of practice since I started shooting trad. It helps train muscle memory so when you are then shooting at targets with your eyes open you can focus more on the spot you are trying to hit rather then so much on form.
In other words, I either work on form with blind bale technique or I am working on aiming (concentrating on spot).
Here is my first two shot group after the blind bail warm up this morning. It was from 16 paces. I only shoot up to two at a time 'cause I have never been able to consintrate very well after that many and get sloppy. All my groups after this one were in a saucer size. Today is a good day.
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa443/ChrisMancill/20110612_50.jpg
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa443/ChrisMancill/20110612_49.jpg
Lets try this again
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa443/ChrisMancill/20110612_49.jpg)
(http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa443/ChrisMancill/20110612_50.jpg)
Chris good shooting and I think I will try the blind bale first idea.
Congrats Okie man, can't wait to see it.
Ok same thing this morning. Now what considerations must be kept in mind when hunting from a stand 'cause I can't seem to miss with this bow and its dang fast now that my form is good and arrow flight is excellent.
Shot another 3d tourney with the Big-5 yesterday. Bow is awesome, operator needs more work. When I get it right, they go where I'm looking, I just need to get it right more often!
Rob DiStefano "PS - you should have posted this on the big HH bug thread. [Wink] "
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=104952;p=1
There you go Rob, for all the see and read.
God bless,Mudd
Thanks Mudd, just wasn't sure if I should or not.
:bigsmyl:
I guess the Hill bug bit me pretty good...
Brother Mudd,
What a great Avatar!
Does the serial number on a bow tell info about it?
Yes it does--to the bowyer who made it. They make up their own serial number "code" for lack of a better word. Usually it just tells when the bow was made or what number it was in a given year, or other such things. Craig Ekin's Hill bows have a couple of letters that designate the model and some other info. For example, my Redmand has the serial number RC 685173. That means it is a Redman...Craig built...68" long....and then a number representing where it was made in some sequence of manufacture. My Big Five by Craig begins BC 68xxxx and so forth. Hope that helps. Other bowyers use different systems.
Thanks David was wondering if the 68 ment 68" as all of my other bows have a length mark on them.
The length of the bow is not always in the serial number but it is the first set of digits in a Hill serial number. All bows have the length marked some place.
I had a "wheelie friend" over last evening and he had a question about his bow (a few years back I worked in a pro shop so I still know a thing or two about compounds). We headed down to my basement range and I got him dialed in. He wanted to keep shooting so I went and grabbed one of Hills and joined him. After 10 or so minutes he asked to "try out" my Wesley Special. His first shot was right in the bullseye (beginners luck), try as I might I couldn't pry the bow from his hands the rest of the night. I had to pretty much chase him out the door at 2 am, needless to say the Hill bug bit another converting a friend to trad in the process. Now all I have to figure out is what to do with the wheelie bow I "traded" my Wesley for. :bigsmyl:
stik&string :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Now that's what I call sacrifice!
:campfire: God bless,Mudd :archer:
Stick&String,
I find that if you remove the wheels from the compound, they make great flying targets.
The cables make GREAT snares for wolves, and the magnesium risers can be melted down to make slingshot ammunition using muzzleloader round-ball molds.
Thus proving compound bows are actually more useful than longbows.
Too funny
As some of you know, I have been looking for ways to handle the weight of a form and clamps. I could see putting a couple of compound wheels on one end and a handle on the other being worth trying, if anyone wants to send me a pair. Note: Cams will not be accepted. ;)
Dick,
I am going to hang onto it for a few weeks just in case my buddy gets "trader's remorse" but if he sticks to the Hill I would be happy to send the pulley to you.
Just send Dick the pullies. There's no way he's going back. If he does he'll be getting :knothead: from the spirit of Howard.
Question for you guys, I just got a good deal on a 68" Jerry Hill elite plus longbow. The brace height seems better a little over seven inches. That seems a little high to me. What BH are you folks using on your Hills?
BTW, almost everyone says bad things about Jerry Hill bows but this thing puts em right where I'm looking with no hand shock if you hold it right.
QuoteOriginally posted by Bowana:
Question for you guys, I just got a good deal on a 68" Jerry Hill elite plus longbow. The brace height seems better a little over seven inches. That seems a little high to me. What BH are you folks using on your Hills?
if it's a classic american flat longbow style (backset, straight or string follow), 6.5", +/- 1/4" is a good rule of thumb.
BTW, almost everyone says bad things about Jerry Hill bows but this thing puts em right where I'm looking with no hand shock if you hold it right.
that rap is given to ALL american flat longbows, regardless of bowyer. it's all about having the right bow length for your draw length, how you hold the bow, arrow mass weight, and yer form.
Bowana, I am running 6 1/2 on my Hills.
For any of you thinking of shooting your Hill bow with a bow q--q--quiver (yes, I said bow quiver), here's an interesting thing I noticed this weekend.
Since the snow has finally melted enough to get somewhat into bear country this coming weekend. I decided to try to hunt bear without a bow quiver this year, so off it came and out I went for a long-one-arrow shooting session.
At 20 yards my arrows were hitting two inches left, 100 percent of the time.
After about 30 arrows I started aiming two inches to the right and they were dead in the middle of the small leaf I was shooting at.
Well, I simply couldn't have that going on, so back into the house I went to reattach the bow quiver. I went back outside and put every arrow dead center.
The point of this story is that bow quivers subtly change the way your bow shoots. I could resolve the problem by aiming to the right (not an acceptable option) or by dropping five pounds in spine weight (not enough time to order shafts and make new arrows with only four days until I begin hunting).
So, for this bear season, it looks like I will be posing for stylish pictures with my manly bow quiver firmly attached to the bow (poor Nate will be green with envy).
What kind of bow quiver do you use Rik?
Bulldog18,
My quivers are Frankenquivers.
I use the strap-on parts of a Thunderhorn quiver, and the bottom arrow holder of either an Ace-in-the-Hole quiver or a Delta quiver. They have a flat piece of steel attaching the upper part to the lower part so I can remove it in one piece and strap it to my backpack when I need to, with the arrows still in the quiver.
This photo shows what the end result looks like. Unlike quivers with flat arrow-holding brackets, these arrows are held nice and tight, in a smaller space.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/2010_mule_deer_with_bow_lowres.jpg)
P.S. Those are goose feathers in the photo above.
100 percent waterproof, and approved of by 99,999 out of 100,000 British Longbowmen. The real deal.
rik, sorta like my efa totem quiver, where an alum tube (arrow shaft!) bridges the hood and holder i can remove the quiver, attach a sling and it becomes a side quiver ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/efa51.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
P.S. Those are goose feathers in the photo above.
100 percent waterproof, and approved of by 99,999 out of 100,000 British Longbowmen. The real deal.
+1 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
my fletch making factory workers ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/canada.jpg)
the fruits of their hard labor (hey! it's june! the moulting season is ON! get 'em while ya can!) ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/goose.jpg)
and they work SO well on woodies and carbs ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/goose1.jpg)
Rob, I fear those photos of yours are going to convert a whole bunch of turkey-feather shooters.
P.S. GREAT PHOTOS by the way!
Thanks guys, I have been trying to decide to whether or not to use a bow quiver on my Hills.
and after ya gather up all that beautiful, FREE GRAY GOLD ....
turn \\'em into fletchings! (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000106)
If you look close at the photo of the mule deer, you will see the chartreuse feather tracers I put on the arrows so I can see them fly.
That's half the fun of archery!
yep, the only issue with goose feathers is their anonymity and tracers help bunches ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tracers.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tracers2.jpg)
Rik,
99,999 out of 100,000 British longbowmen didn't use a bowquiver, however the one that did is your hero!!! :D
imagine the horror at hearing thousands of grey goose shafts whistling down on you, enough to put the scare into the Frenchies or a lone doe at the top of the mountain for sure...lol.
I've tried lots of bowquivers over the years and never could get used to the feel of them on a longbow. On a recurve they feel good...go figure.
But backquivers also just look plain cool, especially with a haversack and plaid hunting clothes. This is this year's hunting garb, decidedly low key.... :thumbsup:
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1308094101.JPG)
i like low key! :thumbsup:
I like the idea of a back quiver if just to keep that part of my shirt under my arm and on my chest from getting in the string of my 68" bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
[QB] Rik,
99,999 out of 100,000 British longbowmen didn't use a bowquiver, however the one that did is your hero!!! :D
Who? I am drawing a blank.
Nice Rob, I've got a little collection going myself
I just can't bring myself to put a bow quiver on my Hills/Belchers/Millers aside from pack in hunts where every nite is a different camp/bivvy ...
I think I'm still a bit in love my Robin Hood fantasy to modern up with a Bowquiver lol !
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/nzdad7.jpg)
pick the the longbow guy ...
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0108.jpg)
was some good eating ... "red plaid hog" was the name of the dinner that nite
Mmm nah ...
(http://i411.photobucket.com/albums/pp200/benmaher3006/PICT0107.jpg)
jus ain't the same .....
Near as I can tell, that photo of Nate clearly shows three things:
1. Bow quivers and haversacks do look kinda (I will only admit to "kinda") cool.
2. He is standing in extremely good bear and elk country.
3. Nate is obviously not an inch taller than five foot two.
P.S. If you didn't already know, Nate is height challenged. But he is okay with it as long as you don't mention him and Billy Barty in the same sentence.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
2. He is standing in extremely good bear and elk country.
Sweet ......
I think if I was wandering elk and bear country I'd have my backpack with me just in case an overniter is called for ... the I'd have me on a Bowquiver
I think.
Bowquiver Rik, really?
Are you not the same one who said in another thread a "longbow is suppose to be long"?
Not a recurve, with mass weight in the handle? :confused:
Something Different - I just posted a notice to the Bowyer's Bench re a new page I'm adding to my web site. I know there are aspiring Hill style bowyers in the thread/group. (I keep getting emails from them! :) i have two build alongs on my site, but I thought it might be interesting to supplement them with a daily narrative shop diary of the actual working process... not a pictorial, but a review of the decisions that have to be made, the problems that come up and how they're dealt with. Not a process description, but a review of how the process went in one particular case. I've just started a double bow project, two not identical in woods or design. The first two days' narrative is now up. If you're interested, check out the post in Bowyers Bench and follow along on the site as I go.
Good deal Dick I will do that.
I just got a light weight Big 5 from the St. Jude auction 76# @ 27'' had a little trouble stringing it and did manage to pull it back 2'' LOL. Won't be shooting this one much......stabow
Thanks Dick!
You have good stuff to share and many will benefit from your experience.
Boyd (Stabow)... What the heck you thinking of?! Reminds me of a couple of years back I was visiting BowDoc and he was telling me about the latest bow Glenn St. Charles had given him to refinish. It was 85# and Doc was laughing so hard I thought he'd choke, trying to get out, "What does a 96 year old man want with an 85# bow?" :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
Ben, mate...
how many of those mates of yours have to inflicted with the HH bug? They all look to be diehard 'curve shooters....
One of the joys of stumpin with a longbow while cruisin the hillsides for bear....getting to shoot long shots into the heart of a rootball...40 yards plus....watch out bears ;)
[ (http://images.imagelinky.com/1308164016.JPG)
Here you go Nate.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc158/mudd57/Natesbow-1.jpg)
God bless,Mudd
nate, the image code is as follows ...
[IMG]http://images.imagelinky.com/1308164016.JPG[/IMG]
I forgot to mention something about my recent trip to Vancouver Island, during which I shot the many Howard Hill bows in my friend's collection.
Believe it or not, I actually---for the first time ever---experienced hand shock. I was shocked! Amazed! Flabbergasted!
I was shooting a 70-pound, 70-inch Wesley Special, and the first arrow out of it jarred my wrist a bit. I shot it again with the same result. One more arrow and it did it again. I had never felt anything like it.
I knew exactly what the problem was though, he was handing me cedar arrows. YIKES! I haven't hunted with cedar arrows since the 80s.
I asked him to hand me one of his Ash arrows, and the next shot was smooth as silk. I did not shoot another cedar arrow for the rest of the week. It was ash and only ash, and nary a bit of handshock to be found.
I do have to admit, those light little cedar arrows did arrive at the target quickly. They were fast flyers, but I did get to smell quite a few of the ones he broke during our weeklong visit. They did not hold up well at all. Sure smelled nice though.
it's not the ash per se, rik - it's all about the gpp weight. ;)
You are right Rob, but he didn't have any heavy cedars.
He didn't have a grain scale either, so I have no idea what the cedars or the ash weighed. The ash were just enough heavier to get rid of the hand shock though.
It would be a neat experiment to take a bow and several weights of arrows, from 450 grains up, and then shoot them to figure out at what weight the hand shock goes away. There is probably a good equation that could be worked out that could come in handy.
As for me, I am going to stick to shooting arrows 600 grains and up. They feel just right.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
As for me, I am going to stick to shooting arrows 600 grains and up. They feel just right.
I hear Ya !
i need 10gpp or more for any of my longbows and definitely for hills - 11 or more gpp is better yet.
thanks for the help guys, still getting used to this photo techno stuff... :)
Ric, with your bow & arrow combos, animals shake like getting hit with a battering ram. Your penetration success is awesome. But then again, your arrow weights would be around 11 ggp for most other guys.... I've been dinkin' with cedars again, shooting some 535 gr. (8.5 gpp) up against my 620 gr.(9.5 gpp)fir arrows and can tell some difference in the feel of the bow, but it's not too drastic. I don't think you get a really good feel for how arrow weight dampens a longbow until you jump up to at least 11 ggp.
Funny how in the old days....40s, 50s,60s,70s....guys shot cedar or light aluminums out of medium weight bows all the time and killed everything out there...times and knowledge sure has changed our perspective of what kills animals.... :)
Nate, good point, and it made me think about something I have not considered before, but should have----my wife's grains per pound.
Ever since we married, I simply made her up some great 600-grain arrows every year and sent her forth to wreak havoc.
Well, I just ran the numbers, and her GPP is 11.5. That seems to be on the high side, but she has won first place many times in the women's division of most of the larger archery shoots in Idaho, and to be honest, has consistently had higher scores than at least 80 percent of the guys.
I honestly don't know how she does it, especially with fairly heavy arrows and a fairly light bow, but somehow she pulls it off.
That's a long way of saying I don't think people need to shy away from semi-heavy arrows because of the fear of not being accurate at long distances.
That being said, when I was a young whippersnapper, I killed bear, mule deer, and elk with light 525-grain cedar arrows all the time. I just seem to do it a whole lot more consistently with heavier arrows.
Plus, it gives us all a good topic to discuss and reasons to try all different combinations of bows and arrows to see what works best for each of us.
Just got my new Wesley , 70 inch 60 @ 29 .....just took it out for 45 shots before dark......holy cow...unreal good.
Ill post pics tomorrw.....
WOW
Patrick
Congrats on the new bow Patrick!
Congrats on your new Wesley. :thumbsup:
Patrick is this your first Hill?
I recieved my Robin Hood double shelf. It's fun to shoot. Will post some pic's when I learn how to. BTW thanks to all that have posted all the good info on how to shoot them.
hey Nate,
What glove are you shooting nowdays? In the photo it looks like a "Hill" style or a Schulz?
I've preferred the Hill style for almost 20 years and use it most of the time. However, I helped design the Bigshot Crossover for guys that want a stiffer glove that stays on the fingers better....it's really a great glove and not as stiff as the Hill style and I use it as well... I make my own Hill style using fingerstalls I got from James Schulz years ago...
thanks. Do you have an insert or just leather? The Schulz "Hill Style" glove I have has inserts. Just curious your thoughts on that?
I love inserts. I don't like curling my fingers around the string too much, I can feel my anchor so much better and the string comes off my fingers better. If I use a soft glove or tab, my fingertips curl back and don't dig into my face, so the stiff glove gives me a much better anchor..
Thanks again Nate. Always interested in your insight and passion for the traditional way.
Heading out for my first hog hunt (Hog Heaven) in the morning. Hope to see what the Big-5 and I can do with a pig!
Pete
Good Luck
Pics of the new addition...Im a proud papa. 70 inch/ Carmelized Boo/ Elk tips/Black Elk wrap It really zipps those arrows out, at 620 grains and if Craig is accurate with the 60 @ 29(my no kidding draw) then Im right at 10 GGP. She shoots fast and flat. Im very impressed with the bow. I like shooting it better than my Robin Hood.
Im going to put a black and tan FF flemish twist string on her and go. She will be my Elk hunting bow this year for sure. Deadly quiet...no big shock. I love the Black and Tan.
Patrick
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/005.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/007.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/013.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/012.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/008.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/014.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/010.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/011.jpg)
Again with the pic size.. I resize them all on Photobucket, replace the originals and post. size is 600x450 I dont know why they show up oversize?
Now that you've got yours re-sized, you won't need these.
Awesome looking bow!!
God bless,Mudd
That is sweet !
I live the "wapiti" .... just a beautiful bow mate .
Man that is pure elegance!
Thanks Mudd for the resize...I wonder what is going on,
Anyway, I forgot to mention the riser wood is Gaboon Ebony and looks just as black in bright sunlight as in the pics.
Patrick
bee-you-tee-full wesley, patrick! :thumbsup:
Very, very nice MT.
I do like that bow!
It's all over for you now Patrick, you've been bitten so bad you'll never recover...and that beauty only adds fuel to the fire.... :thumbsup:
Thanks Guys, I appreciate the positive comments!
I was worried about the draw weight but here is what is weird...I seem to be getting a better release(cleaner) with the higher draw weight. Craig has it marked 60@29 and I really want to test it...just to see. Im still pulling a full 29 , (I used the clothspin on the front of the arrow method to measure to see if I was collapsing my bow arm in ANY way) so thats all good ...it just seem cleaner off the glove. I feel more solid at anchor.
The string I was given with the bow is about a full inch too short, Its 12 strand FF Flemish and is 67 inches tip to tail stretched out on the floor, I can only get the brace height to 7 inches...dont want to unwrap anymore....
I want to be able to string it up get a brace of 6 inches the twist to up that when tuning.
do you think a string built to 68-68.5 would get me the extra inch of brace reduction?
And who do you recommend I order a string through? I want to get a Black and dark brown Flemish FF.
Thanks guys!
Patrick
P.S. My thanks to R.D.S and the guys on providing me the info on the "tempered/carmelized boo" I made a call into Craig and had him work that process into the build and I love the result.
My thanks to all of you guys as well(Sunset Hill)...., all of you have helped me so much excell in my shooting of these bows. I owe all you fellas a "Full tip" of my Fedora. :archer:
MT Longbow-
The new bow looks great, I like wood combos.
Darren
Hello HillGang-
It's good to see everyone is still here and that the Hill thread is going strong. I haven't been on here for at least a month due to work and school, but I have been shooting as much as possible.
Darren
Patrick,
There are many good string making sponsors in the sponsor list. I have only had experience with Chad at Champion Custom Bowstrings. He makes a great string and really knows his craft. Besides that, he is a great guy to visit with. Look him up in the sponsor's list. He is currently out of town filming his second edition of Doin' The Twist string making video but should get back with you pretty quickly.
That is a gorgeous bow Patrick. Love the color of those limbs. Good luck with it.
It's a beauty Patrick, congrats. :thumbsup:
Thats a Beauty Patrick!!
Eric
A beauty. But then I never saw an ugly bow made by Craig.
Hey Patrick,
Good luck with the sweet looking Hill!
Ralph
:clapper:
If Craig doesn't camelize is Boo on site he better order a good stock of it 'cause I think he will be selling alot more of it.
cedar find
The recent discussion of Cheetahs got me enthusiastic and I had that in mind when I started my current building project. However, the juniper I have is really kind of boring, no hot grain at all, and I had no cedar, so I opted for osage. I've been looking for the right piece of cedar since this spring, when I let my Cheetah-like cedar bow "Out of the Closet" go to someone who needed a light draw. On this afternoon's lunch and errand outing, my wife asked if I wanted to drop by Rocklers? Duh! There I found a marvelously horrible piece of cedar, 9' x 5 "x over 3/4"... Full of huge knots, punk spots, etc., but I thought I could see several 1 1/2" x 38" runs of good wood here and there, with only small knots and blends of slight white grain running through the red. The board was $12 and came home with me. I had hoped to get four good lam billets out of it, but only got three. Still, I'll get at least three lam slices out of each billet, possibly four. At four lams to a bow, that's two or maybe three nice cedar longbows with boo cores. Be awhile before I get to this project, but it'll be interesting to see how Cheetah like I can get.
I posted pix of the wood with today's work report on the "How It Goes" page.
Cap'n,
It looks like some interesting color and figure in that wood. The cream color streaks will make it distinctive. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
Hey Patrick!
Dandy bow indeed!!
Beauty of a bow Patrick, congrats! :thumbsup:
Thanks fellas, I took it out for a solid test run today , 3D shoot in Clearwater Junction Montana(the Bearshoot) , shot multiple times at 40 targets out to 50 yards.....Great Bow...solid shooter...Man that was ALOT of arrows!!!
Lets talk GPP and Hill bow efficiencey. I have been told from time to time by Hill bow guys that a Hill bow will shine at GPP obove 10 like 11 or 12. Well I have a Wesley Special that is listed at 56# (don't know yet what it really is) and with an arrow that is 9 GPP and an arrow that is 12 GPP I can't tell a difference of impact out to 25 yards ( my max accuracy with this bow at this time). Don't have a chrono but it seems that there isn't much drop in FPS even with a 150+ increase in arrow weight. If I had attempted this jump with my recurve it would have dropped way off once you got past 10GPP. Now am I just imagining this or is this the case with the american flat bow?
BTW at 12GPP this bow is as smooth as my recurve.
i let each bow dictate to me what kinda gpp it prefers. i've had hills that just shined at a tad before 10ggp and others that didn't wake up until i pushed the weight to a good 12gpp. they're all diff'rent to some minor or major degrees. let 'em have what they like.
well, I finally got to hunt with the Big-5. No blood drawn, my fault not the Hill!
Had a great time...
Pete
Hill bow are not flat bows.
The difference between flat bows and "narrow," deep-cored bows is deep-----and ancient.
That's what makes deep-cored bows interesting.
Look into it. The research is almost as interesting as the bows. . .
P.S. The snow has melted here in Idaho almost enough for bear hunting. Our major passes still have 10-feet of highly compressed ice (they call it snow). The snow in the low country is starting to melt. Might be able to get into good elk country by the first week of August. Won't be getting into good bear country until after the bear season ends this year.
If Nate will share a photo, I will too. Even the low country is gorgeous.
"Hey Nate, it's Haversack comparison time!" I would much rather share a photo of a bloody arrow and a tasty spring bear, but the season is a bit late this year. It ends next week, so I have a feeling the bears will win this year. At least for me.
Nate-----any action on you side yet?
Sorry for the misstatement have just heard them reffered to that way before.
Here is a Montana Bear.....rather large and mean...lucky my Daughter and I shot him...The Wesley saved the day again...right at 10GPP!
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/hoverp/Howard%20Hill%20Wesley/3Dbear.jpg)
Here is a picture of good shooting "D" style thick limbed longbow. Not a true "Hill" but a good shooting longbow in the Hill tradition. The fella in the picture is one ugly cuss!
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n559/jeffbschulz/100_0683.jpg)
MT Longbow,
If I am lucky enough to see a bear that large before the season ends, I can assure you:
I WILL BE RUNNING THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION!
Glad your daughter put an arrow in him too, he's not a one-arrow bear!
P.S. That grass looks sweet and tasty. Be there elk in that thar country?
IIGGGHH Matey, thars Elk in them thar hills!
Patrick
Right ye are, right ye are, I had a feeling.
9 and 1/2 weeks and counting Matey, 9 and a half weeks and counting. . .
P.S. For those of you who wonder what in tarnation is wrong with MT and I, well. . . we be elk hunters. . . therefore we be crazy. I smelled fresh elk pee elk this weekend, I saw fresh elk tracks, I saw a huge rub from last September, and I saw elk on the hoof. Aye------'tis true, I be worthless as a rusty cutlass from now 'til the end of elk season. .
EEYYYYYY, Truer words were never spoken Matey, now rest up a bit, close those weary eyes and dream.....
Here is an "ol school" photo with Hill'ish features!
(http://i1139.photobucket.com/albums/n559/jeffbschulz/DSC02841-1.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Hill bow are not flat bows.
The difference between flat bows and "narrow," deep-cored bows is deep-----and ancient.
That's what makes deep-cored bows interesting.
Look into it. The research is almost as interesting as the bows. . .
....
um, not so rik ol' buddy. there is no reference to core depth in an american flat longbow. it's flat because unlike the ELB, the belly is as flat as the back.
for the most part, there is an unspoken rule of thumb that sez american flat longbows are narrow of width (1" to maybe as much as 1-3/8", but most are around 1-1/8") and deeper of core (limb thickness, depth) than a "flatbow", which is very wide of core and shorter of limb length than an AFL.
at the extreme, a flatbow would be a nor'west modoc indian "pyramid" bow, perhaps 60" in length and limb width of about 3" at the fades ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/modoc.jpg)
Chris M,
Heavier arrows have been proven to be very efficient from Hill style bows. I have seen a controlled study where as arrow mass went up, the velocity dropped, but very little when compared to a curve shooting the same set of arrows from a bow the same draw weight. The deep core apparently continues to deliver a good cast with the heavier mass arrows. I don't recall where I have that, but it was in some trad magazine I believe.
Well I think that I am going to like to heavier arrows because my unscientific study shows that they penetrate way deeper on my hay bales infact with the heavy arrows I have to shoot the bale on the side instead of the end or I have to dig for the arrow. Also I will have to get a new block target as they were burying past the fletching and some skipping on the dirt on the other side. ;)
cornfucius say ...
"heavy arrows will make your bowstring sing.
light arrows will make your bow arm sting."
:D
:archer2:
I have found a point where the mass seems to impede distance shooting, but I think it varies between bows and bow weights, and shooter of course. I like a 600 grain arrow, from 45#-53# Hill and Hill style bows. I can shoot to 35yds well. More than that seems to really change my trajectory, yet penetration is still great. I get mostly pass-thru's on deer, or full chest penetration, even on big deer. Usually a bone hit on the opposite shoulder is what will stop my arrow if it stops. 550-600gr seems good for me, 600gr for elk.
of course there surely is such a thing as 'too much arrow weight', when arrows lob in the direction of the mark instead of flying in with a reasonable trajectory. each bow (and archer) will determine what's 'too much' of anything. :)
My next set of arrows for the Big-5 will be between 500 and 600 grains I think, I'll adjust fire from there.
:biglaugh: :biglaugh:
I know I am out on a limb here, but to me, a flat bow is what I think of when I see about 90 percent of all longbows on the market. They have wide, thin limbs that are basically flat.
They are not as wide and thin as a recurve, but they are still wide and thin.
When I look at one of my Hill bows, I do not see a flat bow. The limbs on my bows are nearly as deep as they are wide.
In my simple, pea-sized Idaho brain, there are flat bows, and there are deep-cored bows. Nothing wrong with either, but they are different.
I recommend taking my thoughts on this with a grain of salt though, as I also think Hill bows look good with bow quivers. My thinking on such matters is what some would call "Abby-Normal."
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
I know I am out on a limb here, but to me, a flat bow is what I think of when I see about 90 percent of all longbows on the market. They have wide, thin limbs that are basically flat....
yep, no question, they're ALL flatbows. however, it's the American Flat Longbow (AFL) that has the narrowest of flatbow limbs, and thusly the deepest of cores (thickness).
If Hill bows are American Flat Longbows, what do we call the wide, thin-limbed longbows?
I would vote for calling them Non-American Flat Longbows (NAFLs), but that would make it w-a-y too easy to tease my friends.
Seriously though, what are they called?
If I could run the world for a day, the Yew Longbows of old and Howard Hill style bows would be called Longbows (naturally), and the flatter-limbed longbows would be called flatbows. Due to the young archers who may be tuned into this broadcast, I will not mention what I would call recurves, but as my hunting partners who shoot them can attest, the phrase does include the word "Sissy." To be fair though, they cannot mention my Hill bows without grinning widely and mentioning two-by-fours.
What ever you callem I am lovenem :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
[IMG]http://images
Rik and fellas...
had this bear come in the other night, this photo taken about two minutes before I got the shot. I was wearing my slip on loafers, jeans and plaid Asbell vest and carrying my white glass bow. The bear never saw me and walked within 10 yards....needless to say, I shouldn't have put up a treestand, I was only 7' up, just to get into some cover, but I dislike shooting from an elevated sitting position and..... (http://images.imagelinky.com/1308586971.JPG)
Okay, Mr. Steen, you've got to get that picture posting sorted out and stop teasing us.
To help pass the time while Nate continues to keep us on the edge of our seats, here is a photo from this weekend, looking toward where Nate is hunting. I am hoping Nate will scare a few bears toward this side of the mountains with that fancy white bow of his.
P.S. Note that my Haversack is of a manly size and proper proportion. I think Nate's may be a bit small for serous archery endeavors.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/sawttoths_6_11.jpg)
Tick Tock. . . Tick Tock. . . Well, the time is passing, and still no photos from Nate.
He is obviously toying with us.
Here is a photo of an old cabin I found out in the middle of nowhere this weekend. There are no trails leading anywhere near this cabin, and It's the only one I have ever seen in Idaho that was not near an old trail or road. A sane person would have to be seriously lost to find it. Still, it provided a neat backdrop for a photo. For those of you with enhanced artistic sensibilities, not the beautiful lines of my bow quiver.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/sawtooths_cabin.jpg)
Rik cool photo. Your haversack I think grew into the Rucksack domain! LOL!
Rik what bow quiver is that?
Quiver on Hill style bows...ugh! LOL
I always felt they added hand shock unless it had a very long riser.
I actually like bowquivers but they never felt right on my Hills! How do you get it to settle down?
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/natesteen/Bear2011039.jpg)
now for the rest of the story....
the bear is moving in to the bait, standing broadside and I'm aiming at the chest....the bow is half drawn and then the bear moves his near leg forward, exposing more chest. I switched my aim mid-draw to compensate, which is a no-no, and since my concentration is compromised, the arrow didn't go where I aimed...
the bear didn't wait around to discuss my options for a retry, and I started wiping the egg off my face and then commenced the butt-chewing process.....
even though my butt was seated only 7' up, next week I'm on the ground with both feet....after this episode I remembered why I dislike treestands. I'm much better at reacting and concentrating with both feet on terra-firma than I am perched up above like a vulture...
It is cool to watch these awesome animals at 10 yards, and have them walk by without spooking at my white glass bow, unpainted face, jeans, etc...
Rik,
the bear might be still running, hopefully it comes back when it realizes that it left some goodies in the barrel...unless it runs into you...lol.
Hill bows are extremely accurate, they shoot were you look. However, as I pitifully displayed, if you look elsewhere than the exact spot you want to hit, they will shoot elsewhere...
Nate,
That is an awesome looking bear! What a rush that must have been!
maybe the real lesson here is....
bears shouldn't be shot by a hunter wearing loafers.... :biglaugh:
I feel your pain...I really do...I keep telling my self.."Aim small, miss small"
I think your going to be sucessful in that location though... stick with it...on the ground one small mountain wind shift and your busted before ever putting tension on the string.
I usually hunt from the ground, don't like pop-up blinds so my blind affair is usually pretty simple....just some branches laid around. A few years ago had a nice chocolate poke his nose over my 'blind' wall and look at me from 5 feet....
For those of you who have not had the chance to go shooting with Nate, trust me, you really, really do not want to be that bear if Nate gets a second chance.
I second his opinion of tree stands. They lack the fun and excitement of a simple, natural ground blind. Mine are pretty much like he described, a few pine branches leaning against some string tied between two trees, with some brush or trees behind me to break up my outline. That's really all you need.
This year, my blind is 15 yards from the logs my bait is hidden under.
I killed my biggest bear by just sitting on a stump 20 yards from my bait. I had to make sure to move my bow arm up ultra slowly, and I do mean "ultra slowly" to make sure he didn't see me. That was maybe one of my all-time favorite shots. He didn't even know he'd been shot, complete penetration with nary a sound. He just fell over a few seconds later. Kelly Peterson helped me pack him out the next day with the llamas. It was the last day of the season.
I debated with myself all spring about using a 'short' treestand this year to get up into the tree cover, never, never again. Rik has permission to shoot me with blunts if I ever think about it again....
something about my longbow mentality....they just go with being on the ground....somehow I don't envision guys shooting stuff with longbows from elevated positions, unless it was shooting off a castle wall back in the old days..... :thumbsup:
So, should I leave my ladder stands at home?
Why did the bears movement of his near leg throw you off? You don't pay attention to that leg-have you already forgotten what I've drilled into you over the years?
That big bear should be toes up by now and hanging in your shop-not still walking around. Might not get another chance at him but if you do don't put your ground blind anywhere near the tree where you shot from-will guarantee he'll be looking for something there next time.
Righto Kelly....I was thinking about all that stuff as he came in, concentrating on the ribs, middle of body etc, but excitement and double-guessing....
i've already got a ground blind spot picked out where he was coming in...a big downed tree with branches still green, just before he hits the bait scent trail....
Kelly, when you are a full-fledged longbowguy, you'll see it like Rik and I do...
All this banter brings up another Longbowman query.....how many guys will only hunt with their longbows from the ground?
QuoteOriginally posted by sunset hill:
... All this banter brings up another Longbowman query.....how many guys will only hunt with their longbows from the ground?
with a 70" tembo, ground only! :readit:
even 66" is hairy when up in the air. :dunno:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
If Hill bows are American Flat Longbows,
yep, they sure are!
what do we call the wide, thin-limbed longbows?
'longbows', but they're NOT AFL's! :D
I would vote for calling them Non-American Flat Longbows (NAFLs), but that would make it w-a-y too easy to tease my friends.
HAH! :laughing:
Seriously though, what are they called?
seriously, just 'longbows'. and some are hybrids with snaky limbs!!!
If I could run the world for a day, the Yew Longbows of old and Howard Hill style bows would be called Longbows (naturally),
if they are 'D' cross sections, they are they true longbow of the ancient elb dna breed. if not, like howard's later longbows of flattened bamboo, they're American Flat Longbows. period. :)
and the flatter-limbed longbows would be called flatbows.
well, flat is flat. if we agree that the definition of a 'longbow' is a stickbow of which only the string loops touch the limbs, then the gamut of 'flat longbows' reaches from AFL's all the way down to those short, mega snaky, ultra hybrid 'longbows' that look and perform as unstable as a ... RECURVE. there, i said that nasty word. phooey. :)
Due to the young archers who may be tuned into this broadcast, I will not mention what I would call recurves, but as my hunting partners who shoot them can attest, the phrase does include the word "Sissy." To be fair though, they cannot mention my Hill bows without grinning widely and mentioning two-by-fours.
tut tut, a bold statement, mon gar - but me likes the stout stick ye carry, and the cut of yer woodie's fletchings. to my shaded eyes, ye be a true son of the yew limb, the red deal shaft, the goose feather and the silken cord. methinks ye would find grand adventure and much honor afoot in the northland, whence the bugles are a'blowin' and the chill is in the breeze ...
I only hunt from the ground and all of my bows look like something that Howard would have shot.. does that quality?...lol
God bless,Mudd
PS: I'm not real nuts about expensive camo just give me something that breaks up my outline.
I already know how to keep a steady wind in my face...lol swirling winds just means that we all just have to take our chances and hope we get lucky...lol
Sunset, I just figured you'd want to prove to all that a real mans bow (Hill style Longbow) can do it BOTH ways...from the ground and from the air...."Death from above" !
Fan the flame , fan the flame!!!
To make Nate feel better, I think Kelly could tell a story about me and a tree stand.
Against my better judgment he talked me into sitting in one of his ladder stands one evening, rather than drive two hours back to my bait in another unit.
I tried to get out of it, but he was persisitent and I finally gave in and agreed to sit in one of his ladder stands.
That was the last time I ever sat in a tree to hunt! I thought I had killed the biggest bear of my life.
I would tell the story if I could, but I would not be able to due to intermittent fits of laughter and crying. . .
MT...that's cruel.
I don't have a problem standing from above...it's sitting on my butt from above that's bad.....lol :)
Rik,
I remember that bear...I'm glad you had it in the back of a toyota to make it look big... :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
To make Nate feel better, I think Kelly could tell a story about me and a tree stand.
Against my better judgment he talked me into sitting in one of his ladder stands one evening, rather than drive two hours back to my bait in another unit.
I tried to get out of it, but he was persisitent and I finally gave in and agreed to sit in one of his ladder stands.
That was the last time I ever sat in a tree to hunt! I thought I had killed the biggest bear of my life.
I would tell the story if I could, but I would not be able to due to intermittent fits of laughter and crying. . .
Rik, but the tree stand was still not at fault-twas your eyes :bigsmyl: :clapper: :archer2:
Got bit by the bug, new to me half breed 66" 60@28, bamboo cores, osage veneers, cocobolo riser.
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd238/calebmichael2003/IMG_20110620_113457.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd238/calebmichael2003/IMG_20110620_113421.jpg)
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd238/calebmichael2003/IMG_20110620_113435.jpg)
Nate, you know how I'll be doing it - Terra Firma! Unless, you are counting rock outcrops as elevated stands :biglaugh:
Very nice half breed.
LOTB,
Gotta agree with bulldog - nice lookin' bow. We will look forward to the hunting reports. Once bitten, there is no cure!
Kelly, you know good and well is was the tree stand's fault.
It was so high up that I could see golden eagles circling below, and way below them was what looked like the biggest bear I had ever seen.
If I had been hunting on the ground like I am used to, I would immediately have identified it as a pygmy bear. I am one sharp cookie on animal identification you know. . .
I have never seen a treestand in real life , only in magazines .
So its from the ground for me .
Also ...LotB... I love that new bow mate ...osage looks sweet .
Nate, I know...I cant sit still either...doesnt seem like hunting to me...seems like waiting...and thats not how we do it out west...just jerkin your chain brother!!!
Patrick
I do both ground and tree stand with a 68 incher. Just depends on what the location I choose for deer calls for. It does take a pretty open tree and once your up in your stand and you should draw your bow back in all directions you might think you'll get a shot to check clearance. It is limited compared to a short recurve, but still doable.
My Idea of a Sexy Photo!
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/hig217.jpg)
My latest layup in the oven... I couldn't help myself. There is just something about a form full of clamps that turns me on! Being able to get that picture straight into the form like this is something I couldn't do before I modified the oven to front opening.
Hopefully, this will be a new pattern for me. I've been trying for a slimmer, more graceful looking foreward riser. Made two new riser patterns and even built one of them, but it just wasn't "right". This morning I tried again and was pleased with the pattern, which I slimmed down quite a bit. My Forward Scout pattern is based on a John Schulz forward riser Hill bow, with a deep locator grip. If it works, this one will be more like the forward riser Hills made by Ted Kramer.
Bit of an extra challenge here in that both of the osage lams "walked" a bit. They're well locked in and I'm hoping everything will grind out OK. Osage lams, boo core and katalox riser. Comes out at 6:30. If feel like it, I'll grind it to a blank after dinner... or not. Depends on whether I want to risk disappointment before bed or first thing in the morning.... I'd really like to have both of these Hill patterns on my wall!
Picked up a 70", 58# at 28" Redman at Comptons "blanket trade" event that was only 3 yrs old for $275. My first! Also got to meet David Mitchell soon after the purchase who confirmed that I got a good deal. Good meeting you Dave.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo306/bhaukom/HillandBrillhart002.jpg)
I'd say you got a steal. That baby looks brand new. Yew is such a gorgeous limb material. Halfbreed will be my next Hill (or maybe a Redman now, thanks to you smoke). Enjoy it and shoot it often.
Smoke ... sweet ... II love yew and Redmans have always ben my fave Hills ...
I have only talked with Dave by emailbut he seems a very genuine and down to earth good bloke .
I gotta get over to Comptons one year and meet up with few of you Hill fellaa's .
Smoke should have trouble sleeping at night the way he stole that Hill. :D Other than a little use showing on the suede grip that bow looks just like new. Hope you enjoy it Smoke. :thumbsup:
Hey Smoke if you need your money back...just contact me...lol
NICE!!!!!!!
Wait, I'm not supposed to be trying to buy another bow am I...lol
God bless,Mudd
Now, now Mudd. You know the rules. No more bows or OFF WITH YOUR HEAD!!
(http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/fighting0043.gif)
And can you, or anyone else tell me why I didn't buy your Bocote Halfbreed? Still kicking myself over that miscue. (http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/sign0070.gif)
I have traded for a Sunset Hill! and the excitement continues ......
QuoteI have traded for a Sunset Hill! and the excitement continues ......
:clapper:
I'm waiting on my Sunset Hill from Nate. But I hear he is shooting over bears up in Idaho. While you ruminate over what caused you to miss that nice bear, why not keep your hands busy on one of your White Dragon style longbows destined to be delivered down here in Oklahoma? Just kiddin. Enjoy your hunting and get to mine whenever you can.
Also, S&S where did you ever find someone that would trade away a Sunset Hill? I have been watching the classifieds for years and have only seen 1 and wasn't fast enough to get it.
My mistake!
Hey Hillgang,
I picked up another book for my collection, Indirect Aiming for Bowhunting by Bob Wesley.
I have Bob's video from years ago, but the book has been out of print.
Darren
(http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/af219/tradlongbow/41qVqv0483L__SL500_AA300_-1.jpg)
Great FIND...I WANT ONE!!!!!!! BEEN LOOKING !!!
I got one copy from fellow TGanger ... i sent him a bunch of broadheads as a thankyou and they got returned to me unopened .
lost all his details too !
reminds me to put up a post to find him !
what is indirect aiming???
I believe it's another way of saying instinctive shooting...
Not really. If you watch Bob Wesley's DVD and his method is not instinctive.
It is effective!!!
I just ordered the DVD from HH archery but I still want the book.
Patrick
QuoteOriginally posted by Okie man:
I'm waiting on my Sunset Hill from Nate. But I hear he is shooting over bears up in Idaho. While you ruminate over what caused you to miss that nice bear, why not keep your hands busy on one of your White Dragon style longbows destined to be delivered down here in Oklahoma? Just kiddin. Enjoy your hunting and get to mine whenever you can.
Also, S&S where did you ever find someone that would trade away a Sunset Hill? I have been watching the classifieds for years and have only seen 1 and wasn't fast enough to get it.
Well I have been looking for one, found one and fianally made the trade. It was on another site. It may or may not work due to the #. We will see. It may be going to its birthplace in Idaho if she is just too fat and needs some lypo-limb-reduction!
Congratulations dragonheart! I hope it fits you as is. I've been anxious ever since Nate called me and said he was ready to start on mine. I wasn't smart enough to ask how much longer and don't want to bother him and appear over anxious.
Okie man,
Excitement is good. Waiting is challenging. I have been there!
:rolleyes: :bigsmyl:
:campfire: God bless,Mudd :archer:
:goldtooth:
Not to change the subject again, but lately there have been some really nice Hill's in the classifieds that haven't sold quickly. One was a Badger that I can't believe was never sold. Guess everyone out there is poor like me. (http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/fighting0089.gif)
oops, rik - please no posting of anything that could/should be construed as classifieds material! thanx for your understanding! :wavey:
For me the Badger though a fine bow it may be is not a "Hill" bow..RC
I looked at that Badger and it looks good but my next Hill will be ordered just the way I want it. I am will to pay more to get it just the way I want it. I had a Black Walnut tree get blown down during a severe storm 2 days ago I am thinking about getting some of the wood for a riser.
QuoteOriginally posted by RC:
For me the Badger though a fine bow it may be is not a "Hill" bow..RC
It's made by Hill so it's a Hill in my opinion. True it is not a D-shaped Hill-style, but a Hill nonetheless.
In "Shooting the Stickbow" 2nd edition, by Anthony Camera there is a picture on page 250 showing Howard himself shooting an R/D bow in the late 60s. Much longer than the Badger, but it is certainly a reflex/deflex. Part of Howard's evolution as he aged and grew as an archer I guess. If he shot one maybe we should, too.
"Shooting the Stickbow" is chock full of great info. Again that's just my opinion.
I have been a little crazy on the BUY spree lately. I think I will be selling a couple. The trouble is, I like them all...
I have been shooting my new Miller Split Bamboo. 66" 45#@28". You would think it was a glass bow, it is not lacking for performance.
It came with a little arrow holder leather tab on the arrow shelf to keep the arrrow on, I guess. It was kicking all my arrows to the right by about a foot, stacked all on top of eachother. I tried different point weights until I just smashed it flat with my thumb to see if it was getting in the way and...yup, bingo. Man was I frustrated for a few minutes there!
My arrows liked a 125gr point, but I feel 10gpp is a little light, so I may try to cut a 1/2-1" or so to get up to a 145gr head with the tapered cedars. At a 5.5" brace and dacron with 10gpp arrows, it is already quiet and a pleasure to shoot.
So I shoot a lot, but this bow is a little different than my other Hill style bows...they are all glass and standard straight limbs. This one seems to be a little finicky on the grip, but it is one damn accurate bow. They all shoot where you look, but I am impressed how tight the groups were. Maybe the lighter draw weight, I am not sure. I noticed that when I grip the bow, if I have even a tiny bit of pressure to the right of the very back apex of the bow (rt handed), it will group to the right a few inches. I don't seem to have to be so careful with the other hills. I wonder if it a little wider grip so more prone to torque. It is comfy though.
I usually like a 68 or 70" bow, but Miller said a 66" would act like a 68" due to the design, and I think he was right on.
What a neat bow and I thought it would be cool to have something a little different...
OS
Sounds like a nice one Matt. I don't remember you showing me that gem at the shoot last weekend :saywhat: have fun with it and lets have a look at it at the GLLI eh? :pray:
you got it Chuck. My arrows were kicking and I didn't feel like playing with it in the 3D course. I had to aim about a foot to the left of where I wanted to hit, so I just switched and shot my redman. I had not shot it with the newly made up arrows so I didn't know there would be any issues. It bare shafted fine. Oh well, a little more playing and I think it will be great. The downside of the wood bows is people with a 32" draw can't shoot my bow!! LOL Sorry Chuck, Miller said don't draw it past where you draw to shoot it! You don't want to add any set to the limbs. I will likely be shooting it at GLLI!
Quick question for ya guys as far as bow tuning goes. My arrows are grouping well and flying pretty good but I was wondering if it is possible to get them coming off the bow as smooth as my recurve. I have a 3/16 past center Lee and the arrows come off with no wobble and starts spinning instanly and my broadheads fly perfect no matter the type. No on my Hill they sometimes wobble and the down hen feather is getting some visble wear on them which on my other bows I have never had before. So am I tuned or do I still have some more to do to get it just right.
Thanks.
I would look at tuning. My feathers don't wear and all I shoot is Hills. Grip issues create torque and arrow mis-tuning too. Also, I usually see just a slight recovery but not a wobble down range. It should really be almost imperceptible. When tuned right, usually they look perfect. I use my own feather shape, kind of like a banana pope and young mix from my burner so they are not small like parabolic.
With the feather wear I would guess slightly overspined am I thinking correct?
Around what page in this thread was there a discussion about types of bowstrings used? Thanks.
Rob DiStefano,
Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?
This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob DiStefano,
Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?
This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .
the ONLY way to search just this thread, and no other threads on powwow, was if this thread was contained within it's own forum and segregated from the powwow and all other forums.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
Rob DiStefano,
Is there any way to modify the Tradgang search feature options so we could do a search for words or phrases only in this thread?
This thread is large enough and full of enough great information to warrant it, and man would it be handy for those of us wanting to find something that might have been discussed way back on page 66 or 187 or. . .
the ONLY way to search just this thread, and no other threads on powwow, was if this thread was contained within it's own forum and segregated from the powwow and all other forums. [/b]
If there is to be a vote taken as to whether to do something like this or not... I vote NO!
Thank you!
God bless,Mudd
I agree. I prefer this as a highly visible thread and not a separate forum.
Here's a YES vote for a forum. You can't follow a specific topic through this thing unless you want to make it a life's work. It's fun and I check it daily, but I consider anything posted yesterday as simply lost forever. There are plenty of participants and I think a lot to be gained by the organization a forum would provide. $.02
well, we could have it both ways ...
create an 'hh bug' forum that contains a copy of this entire thread. it would be a 'read only' forum, just used for searching out data. this thread, here on powwow, wouldn't change in any way, and would used as the 'seed' for the thread copy forum.
however, the copy would need to be updated reasonably often, at least once a month ....
I think Rob's suggestion above is a good compromise for all of us. It's a win/win, except for Rob of course since he'd have to do the updates. No worries though this is his full time job. Hey Rob, do we make your head do this sometimes? (http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/gr_bomb.gif)
I vote YES for this system.
QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
I think Rob's suggestion above is a good compromise for all of us. It's a win/win, except for Rob of course since he'd have to do the updates. No worries though this is his full time job. Hey Rob, do we make your head do this sometimes? (http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/gr_bomb.gif)
I vote YES for this system.
x2
So far as feather wear, shoot instinctively and play with head weights if you can. I usually try 125, 160, 190 gr. Try to make the arrow do something predictable and then tweak it until perfect. I use arrow impact with broadheads to guide my actions. Then field points will be really close of the same weight. Sometimes a 145 piled pt will be good when a 160 broadhead was perfect so there can be variation for example. I say shoot instinctively because you don't want to correct impact location by aiming, but by arrow tuning. That's what I do, hope I was more clear than MUDD (no offense MUDD)!
So I guess I didn't mention impact left is stiff shaft, impact right is weak with broadheads. Up and down is nock pt adjustment. Make sure flight and impact is consistent and perfect and shoot at 20 yds so there is room for the arrow to react fully. Nock too low will cause more issues than too high
That sounds like the way to go to me but I haven't been a major contributor on this thread.
QuoteOriginally posted by smoke1953:
That sounds like the way to go to me but I haven't been a major contributor on this thread.
that wouldn't matter one bit. what matters is that any trad gang member can search directly through this thread alone for something very specific about howard hill bows, and all matters that pertain to american flat longbows.
a serchable read-only copy of this thread can now be found in the HOWARD HILL (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=87&submit=Go) forum.
HOWEVER, the thread search engine will not be activated until i take the system down and resync the search engine. should be good to go by mid morning tomorrow. :wavey:
:campfire: God bless, Mudd :archer:
Nice one Robbo ! And none too soon I reckon, that way the newbies who are destined to become Hil style bow shooters [ although they might not know it yet ] can navigate through some great information !
Thanks again mate ......
Awesome .
I was one of those newbies when this thread started now 5 Hill bows later I find myself constantly looking back at previous posts. Great idea to copy this thread and thanks Rob for doing all you do.
:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Nice Job RDS, thanks for the work!
Patrick
Nice job Rob, thanks.
DiStefano is the man. Thanks for working so hard for us. I think this new way is gonna work out great.
Rob, that's an awesome solution. I've read every post (although sometimes it takes me awhile to catch up) and still find myself not being able to locate something I know was discussed for a couple pages back when. As for the newbies to the thread, we're way past the point where any reasonable person could catch up by starting at page 1.
Speaking of page 1, anybody heard from the Ben that started what is probably the most successful thread in TG history?
Great solution Rob!
Just wanted to add my thanks to Mr. DiStefano. The new forum will be a blessing. :notworthy:
Thanks Rob!
Like many others, I have gone back to look for stuff I know is in here....somewhere. Takes forever.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
It's a good thing.
I have been going through this thread and I watched the videos Sunset Hill (Nate) posted. In a matter of 6 minutes of video, I have re-learned so much! Thanks so much for those videos!
RDS
Thank you for turning this gem into a tool we can research. You da man :notworthy:
the trad gang forum search engine pretty much sucks for finding multiple targeted search results within a topic. in fact, it can't. the engine is only designed to find the first entry of the target word(s) within a forum. a search for 'tembo' brings up the first instance of that word, and will not show the other dozens of instances. so the concept of pulling off a copy of the hhbug thread to a separate forum isn't the way to go.
after a bit of thought, i decided to convert the entire thread into one humongous html file. our current thread page parameters have a max of 15 posts - i temporarily changed that to 'unlimited', took a copy of the hhbug thread over to the howard hill forum, opened it up and did a page save as an html file, all 11.7 megs worth.
the file has full path links within it - this means that external links, like sponsors and other forums, will function. it will also contain links to the parent forum 'howard hill', which does exist but the copy of the 'hhbug' topic is long gone. i removed links for adding posts.
so far, the page seems stable and functions perfectly for searching - just use your browser to search out words!. if yer using firefox, click on 'Edit', then 'Find' and a window bar emerges at the bottom of your screen - type in your search word! if you click on 'Highlight All', the word yer searching for will be lit up throughout the page.
BE AWARE - the hhbug.html page is HUGE - 11.7megs - and it may take some time to load, particularly if yer not accessing the net via broadband.
i haven't done any extensive testing, so if something seems awry or questionable, please lemme know asap!
CLICK HERE FOR THE SEARCHABLE HHBUG.HTML PAGE (http://www.tradgang.com/hhbug.html)
Hey Rob. Thanks for putting all this together. Seems to work in both Internet Explorer and Firefox for me, but not Google Chrome I'm not sure if I have a browser issue, but when I click the HHBUG.HTML link above Google Chrome does not recognize it. This is what comes up:
http://www.tradgang.com/hhbug.html
Any thoughts? Thanks.
try it with chrome now .........
Connects me right to it with Chrome now. Thanks again. Your check's in the mail. (http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/mikebiz/gr_cool.gif)
Anyone ever snake skin a Hill bow?
The Hillgang is alive and well.
Rob- thank you,
Darren
Hey Rob. Question of the morning for ya. On the new HTML search file it appears that none of the time stamps/posted dates are showing on the posts. Is this an artifact of the html file or is there a way to have them show up? Thanks again.
QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
Hey Rob. Question of the morning for ya. On the new HTML search file it appears that none of the time stamps/posted dates are showing on the posts. Is this an artifact of the html file or is there a way to have them show up? Thanks again.
been working on that ... you'd need to understand how ubb classic displays forum pages - they're all dynamically built on the fly via the cgi engine and i need to avoid that for the static html page version. i'll figure a way around that, for sure. stay tuned for version II of the searchable hhbug thread.
search page update complete - dates are now included and the format is now printable (if you feel the urge to kill a tree or two - it will take almost 900 pages to print it all out!).
although this new page is 1/6th the size of the first page, depending on how you connect to the net, it could take from seconds to more than a few minutes to load, mainly due to all the images it needs to pull in from photobucket and other image archives.
HHBUG.HTML (http://www.tradgang.com/hhbug.html)
I snake skinned a hill bow, I used diamondback rattlesnake and it was awesome, but I couldn't handle the draw wt so I sold it. I used dried skins soaked In Water, carpet glue if I remember, make sure the scales were removed, and had a friend rub in the finish and then spray it with thunderbird as well. Turned out great
Do you all usually get the correct arrow spine from the old charts not the new Easton ones for your Hill Bow? Example would be mine 38@ 30 I am using 1816's full length draw 30.
Well guys, this is the last weekend of Idaho's bear season, and despite my grand hopes for the new area in which I set my bait, nary a bear found it. So, no bear for Rik this year.
Still, all is not lost. The camping was grand, and the scenery was spectacular!
fab pic, rik - but no wider than 640, please!
. . . and for all of you waiting for your new bows, here's a little eye candy for you. This is my Sunset Hill, leaning on my hunting truck (Note the unique camouflage I apply to my 4x4 Tacoma so it blends in with the City Slicker vehicles during the off season).
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Two_Blade_Scion_lowres.jpg)
What kind of broadhead is that...looks like a HH??
RDS, where is the archived forum ? I cant find it on the Forum home page.
Thanks
Patrick
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
RDS, where is the archived forum ? I cant find it on the Forum home page.
Thanks
Patrick
as mentioned in my previous posts, there is no forum. it's all contained on a separate page, in html code.
so,
click the pic below to view the browser searchable HHBUG.html page - give it time to load, there are a LOT of images to fetch and render ...
(http://www.tradgang.com/image-bin/hill2.jpg) (http://www.tradgang.com/hhbug.html)
Okay, I am trying again. This one should work. 640 pixels wide. If you have not seen the Sawtooth mountains, these be them. This is the scenery I was talking about. With scenery like this, even if the hunting does not pan out, you still can't wipe the grin off your face.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Sawtooth_Mountains_2011_Narrowlowres-1.jpg)
He he, I know where that picture was taken from!
So tell me about your new truck?
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
What kind of broadhead is that...looks like a HH??
Rik used to use 160 grain Ribteks and that looks like one to me.
I'd say Ribtek too !
What countryside ... some of us daydream about such places .
Just awesome ... in the truse sense of the word . Looks lke heaven on earth . And a fine fine place to go stumping !
Here is a Hill I picked up at the Howard Hill shoot
68" 45@28 Wesley Special
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/Magnum2/1309112396.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/Magnum2/1309112394.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/Magnum2/1309112392.jpg)
I've got a question for you sages. I was fooling around with some different spines and point weights. I'm right handed, btw. I has shooting a matched trio of 55-60 spine cedars with 125 grain points, and a set of 60-65 surewoods with 125 grain points. The lighter spined cedars were hitting a good 6-8 inches to the left at 15 yards. The surewoods were hitting right to where I wanted them to. The results were the same time after time.
I decided to see if they did the same while shooting a tennis ball thrown around the yard. Same thing happened. The cedars hit to the left of where I'm aiming. There is no way they're too stiff. In fact, I threw on some 160 grain points on them and they flew way to the left.
I do seem to recall that in one of the Traditional Bowyer Bibles a passage stated that a weak arrow in a selfbow would fly to the left for a right handed shooter. My own experience bears that out, as well.
I haven't shot broadheads on the cedars, and on the surewoods, 145 grain heads hit right with 145 grain field points.
Any thoughts? The bow, btw, is my Hill Halfbreed. 69", 45#@29" drawn to just shy of 31".
looper, i'm no archery expert by a long shot, but i hear about what you say more often than not. and it's an aiming issue, not an arrow issue.
i can and do shoot 29.5" surewood premiums in spines ranging from 45# to 70#, all with 125 grain points and 5.25" burnt helical shields. IF i do my job correctly, they ALL fly where i aim the arrow, with no real regard to left/right, but some fly better in the air (straighter, with no fishtail or porpoise) than others because they are a better spine match for my 54# tembo.
think of it thisaway - the eye to the string, the string to the nock, the nock to the shaft, the shaft to the point, the point to the mark. this is NOT about using the arrow to aim, it's about aiming alignment form. i concentrate on the mark when i aim, not at all the arrow.
"aiming the arrow" is a mantra of byron ferguson, and it works. i was taught to aim the arrow by champion archer jim ploen (the "jim" of j&b 21st century archery). it works almost too well. :)
maybe some of this can help ya. :dunno:
I hear what you are saying, but I don't think that's the issue. I focus intently on my target and am pretty consistent. I do have pretty good alignment form. Typically, my misses are high and low, not left and right. I shot groups of 12 of the same shafts and got the same results. I mixed them up, alternating spines. Same results. Two nice little 4 inch groups, one 8 inches to the left of the other.
I have some heavier 65-70 surewoods and they hit right with my 60-65 surewoods. I have some 65-70 cedars. They hit right with the surewoods. One thing that is different with the 55-60 cedars is that they have right-helical fletching on them. All of the others are left wing.
I noticed the cedars hitting differently last night. I was shooting in the dark to a target lit by my porch light. I was standing in the shadow of the corner of the house, so I was in a really dark spot. I could barely see my arrow.
At 25 yards, I was nailing my spot time after time with the surewoods. It was dark enough that I couldn't actually see the arrow hit the target. I've gotten pretty good at calling my shots and can tell if I throw one left or right.
I decided to add the 55-60 cedars to the mix. They consistent hit way to the left. It didn't matter if I shot them all together, or alternated, same results.
Weird.
are you getting kick off the shelf?...maybe the cedars need brace height and nock position attention.
Looper,
Unless I am more than a bit misguided, your fir arrows are also heavier in mass weight?
That means they deliver more energy, penetrate better, and as we already know, hit the target with, shall we say, a finer edge.
They are the arrows for you.
Give the cedars to a friend, he will thank you, and so will the fir arrows that will kill your winter food.
. . . and now to quote Rob-----and boys-----this is never to be forgotten:
THE EYE TO THE STRING
THE STRING TO THE NOCK
THE NOCK TO THE SHAFT
THE SHAFT TO THE POINT
THE POINT. . . . . . . . . . . .
TO THE MARK!
That's the way its' done Mates. That's the way it's done.
P.S. I have two friends still hunting solo in the Sawtooths. They each have a chance, just a chance. That's all we ask.
Maybe Nate has a tale to tell? Perhaps Doug has a tale too? (Seems poor Doug now hunts with a recurve, but I remind him constantly that he is embarrassed for doing so. His longbows do too!)
looper - you can get all yer arrows on the same page with the same fletch by refletching those cedars. and maybe check the spines to make sure they are what you think they are. but i don't think any of that is the problem.
i think it's yer form. yer not adapting to the arrow. yer form and aim are rigid and that allows the arrow to control where it wants to go. aim down the shaft right to the mark and strive for a good release. the arrows that aren't spined to yer bow will not fly well but they will be reasonably centered left to right.
Looper, I shoot instinctive and I have learned to trust my instincts. If I am consistent, and my arrows are not on the bullseye, I change stuff until they are. When I shoot the video system, my arrows are always the same velocity, or 1 fps off. From there, if they group the same, either the arrow is wrong, or something I am doing is wrong. I have found it is usually a tuning issue, which is magnified when broadheads are on the ends of the arrows. If you are shooting right handed, and the arrows are hitting left, the arrows are likely overspined (guess how I picked my handle). So go to a far heavier head and see if you can correct, or even overcorrect the problem. If you can, then hone in from there. If you can't, then you picked wrong and you need a lighter point. If you are way out of whack, then you may never do it with that arrow because it is so off. That might be the issue here, it is just so on the weak side that it might be banging off of the bow or shelf. Trust me, it happens. So just don't shoot those! Longbows, like Hill style bows, can be finicky when it comes to spine. The curves I used to shoot could shoot a lot wider range of arrow spines. Just use what works, and remember to shoot the broadheads you intend to use, because they can tune in differently than fieldpoints of the same weight, the mass is distributed differently.
Also, I had a fletcher that was crap, and when I changed to a Bitz, wow, so much more consistent in arrow flight. Worth giving those fletches a look over too. Try nock in.
overspined - his 60-70# firs are on the mark and his weaker spined 55-60# cedars are left of the mark. :D
Rob, I don't understand what you are trying to say. I do aim down the shaft and I do have a good release. I use a sort of indirect aiming method, but most of my focus is on the target. I am aware of where the shaft is pointed, however. If I had form and release issues, don't you think they would show up with other arrows, as well? What I'm trying to tell you is that I only have this issue with these specific shafts. I can take one of any of one of the multitude of other shafts I have and, with maybe a slight nock or brace height adjustment, hit pretty darn close to where I'm looking out to about 40 yards.
I had a set of the 3rivers cedar test pack (50-55, 55-60, 60-65, 65-70)and could get all of those shafts to hit to the same spot. Some flew better, but they'd still be in a softball-sized group at 20 yards.
I just went out a shot a group with a variety of shafts I have. AD Hammerheads, GT 5575s, AD Trad Lites, Surewood 65/70, Surewood 60/65, cedar 65-70, cedar 60-65, and the cedar 55-60s. Even with the wide variety of spines, weights, and diameters, all but the 55-60 cedars in a 9" circle at 15 yards. The group was centered on my dot, but was a taller than it was wide. Those cedars were all touching about 6 inches left.
I don't have a spine finder, so maybe they are way off. At any rate, they don't fly to the same point of impact for me as the multitude of other arrows I have. I'm going to refletch them and see if that helps. At least I only have 3 of them left.
I think I touched on that in my reply Rob, and I disagree 100% that spine doesn't matter. A fletched arrow may hit close, but fly like crap if the spine isn't close. Add broadheads and LOOK OUT.
Overspined, I hear you. Out of my Hill, my preferred setup is some 145 gr Eclipse heads on 60-65 spine Surewoods. They weigh around 640 grains. It's a really quiet flying arrow, too.
At any rate, I don't know what's going on with those particular shafts. I have a couple of 55-60 spined cedars from a 3rivers test pack, and they don't fly with these. The only difference is the fletching.
I'll just forget about them and give them to a buddy. He won't know the difference. Talk about form and release problems.
QuoteOriginally posted by Overspined:
I think I touched on that in my reply Rob, and I disagree 100% that spine doesn't matter. A fletched arrow may hit close, but fly like crap if the spine isn't close. Add broadheads and LOOK OUT.
i never said that spine didn't/doesn't matter. i said that the correct spine for a bow and archer will allow the shaft to fly well. which sounds exactly like yer saying. however, you can make weak to stiff spined arrows group at the mark by "aiming the arrow" through form. yep, they will not fly well, with some amount of fishtail, but they will go where you point them. i don't like using this reference, but mr. hill could do just that with arrows of different spine and different length, out to around 30 yards. he aimed the arrow. we can too. :)
adding in to the mix broadheads, and all bets are off! :eek:
QuoteOriginally posted by looper:
Rob, I don't understand what you are trying to say. I do aim down the shaft and I do have a good release. I use a sort of indirect aiming method, but most of my focus is on the target. I am aware of where the shaft is pointed, however. If I had form and release issues, don't you think they would show up with other arrows, as well?
no, because you have no issues with the fir arrows, only the cedars. the prime difference, so far, 'tween the two is the spine. how you shoot/aim/release those arrows is what matters most. if well aimed, those weak shafts will fish tail but over some distance (15 yards) will group near the mark.
What I'm trying to tell you is that I only have this issue with these specific shafts. I can take one of any of one of the multitude of other shafts I have and, with maybe a slight nock or brace height adjustment, hit pretty darn close to where I'm looking out to about 40 yards.
I had a set of the 3rivers cedar test pack (50-55, 55-60, 60-65, 65-70)and could get all of those shafts to hit to the same spot. Some flew better, but they'd still be in a softball-sized group at 20 yards.
then you just proved that you have an arrow problem. case solved and closed.
I just went out a shot a group with a variety of shafts I have. AD Hammerheads, GT 5575s, AD Trad Lites, Surewood 65/70, Surewood 60/65, cedar 65-70, cedar 60-65, and the cedar 55-60s. Even with the wide variety of spines, weights, and diameters, all but the 55-60 cedars in a 9" circle at 15 yards. The group was centered on my dot, but was a taller than it was wide. Those cedars were all touching about 6 inches left.
"bad arrows" :D
I don't have a spine finder, so maybe they are way off. At any rate, they don't fly to the same point of impact for me as the multitude of other arrows I have. I'm going to refletch them and see if that helps. At least I only have 3 of them left.
since yer shooting at a reasonable 15 yard distance, it really sounds like those cedars are far too stiff for yer bow/aim, and not at all too weak.
in any event, archery arm chair quarterbacking is difficult if not impossible. and folks can get upset too easily over minced words. but i will say again - if you have yer form/aim down, you can make any arrow find the vertical mark at 15 yards. i'm no genius at all (for sure!), but at 25 yards i can make most any arrow fly to the vertical home without left/right issues (but definitely with some up/down issues!).
i agree with rik - get rid of those poc's and stick with surewood doug fir. :D :campfire:
Can't say much more! :bigsmyl:
As for those cedars flying left, I think they are "floaters"! To light, and your follow thru isn't "flexing" thru the shot!
I have seen this shooting eastern woodland stlyle bows.
Hopefully I'll have a tale to tell this week....one more hunting chance.....
guys, here's a topic that was started weakly a few :) pages ago....longbow literature...what's your favorite and why? let's start with the older classics first......
I'll start....besides the usual Robin Hood stuff, I'm in the middle of "The White Company" courtesy of Rob D's influence...a great book, which inspired me to also purchase "Sir Nigel".
Also in the middle of "Sherwood"....from 1991....now that's a classic, I was given a copy from my friend Don Myers in Oregon....this is a very good book....
I'm reading "The White Company", too. I forgot I had a copy at my mother's house. It's been 20 years since I last read it. I just finished "The Witchery of Archery".
good stuff Rob, that new system will be a good thing to forage through when we wish to look back....thanks for your efforts on behalf of us cranky long-limb bow-shooters :thumbsup:
I just started "White Company" and have "Dies the Fire" waiting on the night table.
When it's just too hot to shoot, it's always cool enough to sit in front of the fan and read a good book or here on TG...lol
God bless,Mudd
Archery Literature:
I'm half way through White Company as well, thanks to it's being mentioned on this thread. By the way for you Kindle users, it can be downloaded free from Amazon.
I also enjoyed Bernard Cornwell's Grail Quest Series and the follow-up novel "Agincourt".
"The White Company" by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle.
The fictional story of a company of English archers during the late 14th century.
selected chapters you\\'ll want to read! (http://www.tradgang.com/rob/ta/white)
"in no particular order ...
"White company ... Doyle
"Azincourt ... Cornwell
"Robin Hood ... Pyle
"Robin Hood ... retold By R Leeson
"Robin Hood ... McSpadden / Hildebrandt
"Children of Hurin ... Tolkien [ a bit of a stretch but the main character is an archer/hunter
Anything about Robin Hood
Did I say I like Robin Hood .......
"the Longbow Hunters ... by Mike Grell .- Howard Hills best student the Green Arrow dishes it out to baddies ..... with drawings of a green Arrow shooting with ol' Howard himself , great story and dashing artwork ... all straight limb Hill style action .
And, as an aside, I am ordering a new bow today ........ :p
Talking of longbow books, the book that I want in my collection is Sagittarus by Swinehart. When I was about 15 yoa, Max Drumb taught me to shoot longbows and he had copy of the book. I used to spend many hours looking at the pictures and reveling over the adventure. That is a great book. It just carries such a heafty pricetag nowdays. There was a magazine he had I think called the Longbow Digest that was awesome. Max had a custom wood arrow shop and carried traditional bows in his shop behind his home. Oh how I remember "the smell of cedar". We used to shoot bumble bees in his garden. Ever once ina while we would hit one. He built some awesome arrows called "Drumbsticks". Max was instructed to shoot by Jerry Hill. His arrows won many championships, several Howard Hill World Championships, Texas Longbow, and IBO. I learned the "Hill" form from Max. One of the regrets in archery is all of the "straying" I have done from this style. I feel like I have come full cirlce plan to stay.
Yep, 'Ol Green Arrow even graced the cover of my magazine once. Quite the archer!
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/2001summers.jpg)
Sweet !!!!!!
Ben,
Did you say "New Bow?"
P.S. Those of you who guessed that the broadhead in the photo was a Ribtek were correct-----a 160-grainer, my favorite.
rik, you ever get to test out the tusker concorde?
Rob,
I have some Concordes, but I have yet to shoot anything with them.
They have GREAT lines, and look like they would penetrate well.
Rik.....
Indeed I did sir !
A new T/D Hill of some description is in order I think ... Red Elm I think ...
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
Rik.....
Indeed I did sir !
A new T/D Hill of some description is in order I think ... Red Elm I think ...
ooooooooooooo - ben's goin' t/d! cool!
Rob,
I've got some Tusker Concordes from Braveheart, good heads, real tough in my testing, have 'em on some shafts for fall hunting this year, we'll see how they do....I really like their edge grind and tanto tips now....they're better than before..
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
Rik.....
Indeed I did sir !
A new T/D Hill of some description is in order I think ... Red Elm I think ...
Oh definitely go with the Red Elm. I have a BamaBows Elite Classic T/D with Red Elm limbs. Great shooter. Very smooth. This is a light bow 40#@27" (my draw length), but it really zips an arrow in my opinion. I shoot it right along my slightly heavier Hills. Nate Steele crafts a lovely bow. :archer2:
QuoteOriginally posted by mikebiz:
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
Rik.....
Indeed I did sir !
A new T/D Hill of some description is in order I think ... Red Elm I think ...
Oh definitely go with the Red Elm. I have a BamaBows Elite Classic T/D with Red Elm limbs. Great shooter. Very smooth. This is a light bow 40#@27" (my draw length), but it really zips an arrow in my opinion. I shoot it right along my slightly heavier Hills. Nate Steele crafts a lovely bow. :archer2: [/b]
and i have the "low end" bama hunter with only twin 'boo cores and that bow is
smoking hot fast and accurate. and the limbs are straight, no r/d!
Just wanted to welcome Matt "Overspined" to the gang of HH "Robin Hood Owners Association" AKA the "RHOA Gang" as I like to call it. He just aquired the beautiful and quick #39 .
Congrats Overspined!
Patrick
Nate I been looking at the concordes too. What weight have you been trying out?
Joe
Lads ... you can't go wrong with Tuskers . They are made to last ... and last !
I have made some shots with those that would have destroyed most heads but they came out the otherside ... shaving sharp.
I put a Tusker Concorde through the spine of a large northern Aussie hog a few years ago ... near two inches of gristle and bone ... smashed through with nary a nick on the edges .
I'm using the 155, double bevel. I've tested them into steel drums, steel belted off road tires and they 'shine'!
They seem more like Zwickeys now, tougher, yet longer. Sorta like a poor man's no mercy...:)I like the forward rake of the rear edge, it makes it easier to pull from a backquiver. The new ones sharpen easier than the older ones which weren't ground much at the factory.... they are definately on my fall hunters.....
right now I've got a big batch of nostalgia and am trying to shoot a bear with old growth cedar arrows and Hunter Heads.....we'll see if there's a bear for me this week...hhhmmm
Lol thanks Patrick,
The double shelf will save my back and shoulders! I like shooting both handed! The bow looks cool too! I didn't realize there was another special group.
Matt
If those Hunter Heads are not working out for ya, maybe it's just too much nostalgia. i bought a bunch of them after they were no longer made. The problems I had with them were that they killed deer if I sharpened them John's way about the same as they did shaving sharp, i could not decide which way to go, the other problem was, even though i had no problem finding the deer I hit with them, I lost nearly every arrow that I shot through deer with them. Almost made me flinchy when I would shoot at deer because I just knew that the arrow was going to vanish. I am down to my last 7 and i have them on new Microflites, tempting maybe I should give them one more season.
I have a 6 pack of 155 gr unbeveled tuskers. I am unsure what to do with them. They look great, but how much work/how many files does it take to sharpen them? I have a low revolution wet wheel but seems like it would take forever. Any suggetions.
OS
Pavan,
I'm glad I'm not in your shoes....I've had that same problem on deer, moose, lion...same story, can't find the arrow after it goes through... :) I found a bunch a few years ago and have the eye lookout for more....
OS, are they the newer version? in a package with yellow tag? those sharpen really well. The older version takes alittle work with a file to get the edge you want and I think the older head had a tougher rockwell hardness....
Yes, package with yellow tag. Won't I burn through files? Any recommendation? They have no bevel
Belt sander.
OS,
no problem for me, I just used a 10" mill bastard file and sharpen one side like a grizzly, then take off the burr and you're set. I sharpen all my heads this same way. easy system to get a sharp head without having to use an aid...if you don't like them, there are guys to take them off your hands...
A couple tools I would love to buy...belt sander and a drill press. So many uses for making archery "stuff". Do you just guess on the angle with the belt sander? Do you use any special belt grit? Arrow attached? Dunk the head to cool?
I got some paper wheels to sharpen the 160gr Ribteks. I have tried files, accusharp, and stones and so far the paper wheels are the easiest and fastest and then strop them on a leather belt with some rouge. I have never tried single bevel broadheads but it would seem the paper wheels would be the way to get them to the proper edge the fastest.
My copy of Schulz's video is available again...vhs old school copy......anyone want to see it? can send it right away...
I found this thread over on page 2. No Hill officianado should have to look that far for info on our favorite subject. Nate how goes the bow building? I can't wait to get my new Sunset Hill.
Okie ... I find Ribteks the easiest broadhead to sharpen out there ... couple of licks of a file and away I go ...
I love Ribteks !!!
As an aside ... what say ye gents ...
My new order ... a t/d 53# @ 27 " 66" string follow ... Red elm limbs ?
I am evidently sharpening challenged. I can get them fairly sharp wth a file but not shaving sharp. The paper wheels do a good job for me. The accusharp will get the magnus 2 blade pretty sharp for me but the Ribteks seem to take forever with it. The steel in the Ribtek doesn't seem too hard so, I guess I just can't keep a consistent angle with the file when I try to sharpen them freehand.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
....
As an aside ... what say ye gents ...
My new order ... a t/d 53# @ 27 " 66" string follow ... Red elm limbs ?
had red elm, it's fine, but after getting the tembo i won't have a hill without caramelized boo through and through :D :thumbsup:
Ben, that is gonna be a sweet bow. I love the string follow design. I had a Northern Mist Shelton that was really nice except the grip was too small for my hand. I sold it and if I had been thinking clearly, I would have tried to beef it up some before giving up on it. Post some pics when you get it. I may have to have another Hill. They have a stock bow on their website now that is close to the right specs with a forward handle. If it were 5# heavier and I had the new siding for the house paid for and up, I'd be showing that one on here. The Hill bow virus is incurable.
haha ...
I am exactly the opposite mate ... Ribbies are easy but I need stones for the Magnus .
Sharpening challenged Hill shooters unite !
Quick question for you hill folks.
Are Hills FF capable?
Thanks!
depends
QuoteOriginally posted by K. Mogensen:
Quick question for you hill folks.
Are Hills FF capable?
Thanks!
yes - at least for the last 15+ years all craig built hills feature reinforced limb tips, whether plain tips or having overlays.
What Rob said... my very sweet shooting Redman has no added tips asdie from the wedge Craig puts in and it has been shooting low stretch strings just fine for a few years now .
In fact it is going to shoot a Roving Marks this w'end with renowned English Matser Bowyer Steve Stratton .
The limb tips show no wear despite me using some pretty low count strings over the years whilst doing string tests etc
Thanks guys! Much appreciated...
Will the Hill bow style benefit a whole lot from using high performance string material over dacron?
Almost any bow will benefit from high performance strings .
For Hill bow users , many find it lessens the '"handshock " ... it does for me but i still use dacron a lot too ... because I have rolls and rolls and rolls of it ..... and , and this is a very personal interpretation , some species i chase will jump the string before I have got out of the car , so sometime the added quiet of dacron can be a very slight advantage ... you will lose a couple of fps though .
Much prefer low stretch on my selfbows though !
Some people like High performance low strand count strings . They get great results too , i have no experience with them but they have there fans . They might chip in here ...
Rob....
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
Just wanted to welcome Matt "Overspined" to the gang of HH "Robin Hood Owners Association" AKA the "RHOA Gang" as I like to call it. He just aquired the beautiful and quick #39 .
Congrats Overspined!
Patrick
Speaking of the RHOA gang...Picture in action boys, pictures of you and your Robin Hood in action!!
share em up RHOA!
Nate,
I'd love to borrow the video if someone else hasn't spoken up first.
-Dave
QuoteOriginally posted by Ben Maher:
.... and , and this is a very personal interpretation , some species i chase will jump the string before I have got out of the car , so sometime the added quiet of dacron can be a very slight advantage ... you will lose a couple of fps though . ...
this is where a low strand count string might be your ticket, ben. they typically are quieter than dacron. i'm using 8 endless strands of dyneema (any brand, any sk flavor, they're all good) with padded loops. yup, check it out.
Thanks again for the help.
I am a big fan of FF skinny strings on Hill bows. Far less vib and a little more velocity. Shoot them side by side and you can really tell. My strings are 10 strand 3 bundle. I make them and pad the loops.
MATT
20+ years ago I shot a John Shultz "Cougar". As I remember it had yew under clear glass. Do any of you know if it would have yew or bamboo as a limb core and what the riser wood may have been?
58
Schultz Cougar was yew limbs under Clear glass; Trophy Hunter was bamboo limbs under brown glass;
Simba was 2 bamboo and one yew lam under brown glass.
Normal riser wood I think was Myrtle.
Ask Sunset Hill. He really knows about it.
Thanks tg2nd
The USPS site says that there is something delivered at my house. I suspect it has some Hill'ish qualities, to be continued....
:coffee:
Dragon... i think photo's are in order ....
I am new to the Howard Hill style bow. I was wondering what you "dyed in the wool" Hill shooters like best. Glass Hill style bows or something like an all wood bow, bamboo backed osage? George
George ... You'll likely find that many of us are pretty dedicated to the D shaped , thin but deep cored style of longbow , regardless as to its actual make up.
However , for most of us , it means a Glassed Hill style bow.
Aside from the great info right here in this thread , check Howard Hill Archery ... they are great to deal with , make beautiful bows and are a sponsor here .
Tell Craig we sent ya ......... :goldtooth:
I'm gonna put myself in the class of a "dyed in the wool" hill style bow lover.
Hill styles are hill styles whether they are backed with something ie paper(Howard did this), wood, bamboo or glass.
I like them all.. I would own a bunch of all of them if I could afford it..lol
God bless,Mudd
QuoteOriginally posted by tree dancer:
I am new to the Howard Hill style bow. I was wondering what you "dyed in the wool" Hill shooters like best. Glass Hill style bows or something like an all wood bow, bamboo backed osage? George
you will find that most prefer glass and wood, rather than all laminated wood. this is mostly a matter of durable convenience.
none of these are the true elb (english longbow) which has a "D" cross section shape to the limbs (flat on the back and rounded on the belly), they're all flat, hence their lineage - american flat longbows.
the limb designs can be dead straight, or with some measure of overall back set (reflex), or belly set (string follow). all will brace up to the classic elb "D" limb curve (unlike most hybrid r/d longbows which will brace up with some amount of limb reflex showing - the caveat to this are some of the mild r/d longbows which show snaky limbs when unbraced, and classic "D" shape when braced).
hope this helps - get yerself a hill longbow and join in on the fun! :thumbsup:
I love this post for the Info involved and how its changed my way of thinking ,emersing me to the long bow.The best thing is how its helped newcomers and the willingness of the experienced to help newcomers.Rob,you have a way with words that is second to none and the experience to go with it.A new book authored by yourself could truly be in order as timing is everything.With the renewed interest in Hill bows and I can't remember when the last book was authored or by who showing and explaining the Hill method today.Sign me up for copy No.1.On this site alone it would be a best seller.Just my two cents worth.
A lot of people try a Hill bow, go about it all wrong, and don't have a good experience.
Getting new interest is great for the American longbow and traditional archery.
It is a lot of fun helping new folks get started and this forum I am guessing has had quite an impact.
How many bought or went back to a Hill style bow to try it for the first time, or to try it again?
I have a Cheetah on order. This thread is partially to blame for that. What a great help it's been as well! Seems a lot of questions have been answered in here...
thanx for your very kind words, steve. i'faith, after 50+ years behind the stick 'n' string, some things can be learned and some forgotten. i try to hold on to the gems. :D
John Lee is taking orders for a limited edition book on Howard Hill. There are only 100 copies to be printed, its beautiful book has a lot of color pictures of Howards bows.
Where can we get more information about the book? Is there a web page?
Yes ,very interested.Thanks for the heads up.
Bob Burton has also compiled a book about Mr. Hill and his equipment and is taking orders. I thinks he is trying to get enough orders to make the publishing costs reasonable.
I finished the bow I've been working on today and am very pleased with it. It's a straight limbed forward riser, but quite different from my Forward Scout pattern, which I did from a photo of what we think was a John Shulz, with a deep locator. This one, "Javelina" is very slim and graceful and modeled after a forward riser bow built by Ted Kramer when he was at Hill. Here are a couple of pix. There are more pix, more narrative and the layup formula posted in the Bowyer's Bench under the thread "Javelina"
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/javelina55.jpg)
(http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h186/CaptainDick/javelina52.jpg)
That is real nice Dick! The first Hill I shot, was a Tembo, made, when John was building them. Black glass on the back, white on the belly. It is owned by a local gentleman who is also a Hill fanatic! Really like them reverse handle bows!
Nice work Captain!!
I think you can make almost any design bow look good.
Thanks for sharing.
God bless,Mudd
I wish I was that talented, good job!
Great looking bow Dick!
Capt,
That is my favorite of your bow designs so far.
Bic
Beautiuful bow Captain.
I must have finally grown in to my hunting/shooting style bow of choice. I`ve shot Hill bows off and on for a long time and any time I shoot something else I get the itch to hunt with a Hill again.
Its a ways off but my Wife said a new longbow is in order for the Husband of the year....that would be me...for Christmas. I`m thinking a Tembo with Carbon kinda like Spanky has described of one he owned once. Be my way of going High tech.
Anybody that has hunted a Hill style bow much knows that the length and any other assumed by many drawbacks just really is no problem. I hunt in VietNam type jungles sometime and sand flat scrub as well down here and the Hill bow has always done its job when I do mine. Heck I even killed a couiple Turkeys the last few years from a pop up blind that some folks say is to tight for a recurve..go figure.RC
QuoteJohn Lee is taking orders for a limited edition book on Howard Hill. There are only 100 copies to be printed, its beautiful book has a lot of color pictures of Howards bows.
I've got my order in.
Hey RC ole buddy, I sure wish you hadn't said "I hunt in Vietnam type jungles"!
I been there and done that, the thought of doing it again gives me the "willies" bad!...lol
I am in agreement that I haven't found much,if any draw backs to hunting with longbow style bows.
"hawgs" don't climb tree,so I just stay on the ground.
God bless,Mudd
heheheh - NO way i'm gonna git up in a heavy wood tree stand with a 70" longbow. that narrows down about a "normal" 80% shooting field to maybe 10% at best, or maybe none. totally depends on the tree stand type, location, and how well the pruning has been done before hand. nope, gotta lop off 8-10" and even that will have its issues. :readit: :saywhat:
Deers 3 and 4 ago were taken out of my tree stand with a 68 Wesley Special.
It is possible to have a 90 degree shooting zone out of a ladder stand if you lay the bow over flat and stand on the foot rest, but you need a clean tree, a safety harness, and a circus daredevil sense of balance. The reality is that a Shrew or a Lost Creek NAT works better for that job.
I'm with you RC. I shot a coyote out of a blind last year. I had some serious cant and had to shoot squatting, but it is definitely doable. I've been practicing out of a treesuit lately and think I'll be giving it a go this fall. I do have to figure out a better top step system, though. The top of my strap on steps don't cut it. The vast majority of my hunting will still be from the ground, though.
I've got a few new hog spots scouted out. This past winter, I watched a humongous boar tearing up an old poplar log. He was only about 75 yards from me, but I couldn't get any closer due to the ravine between us. Later on, I did find where he was bedding. Hopefully, he'll be hanging out in the same vicinity come this fall.
I'm thinking about ordering me a Hill. I'm thinking of a 70", 60#@31" Wesley.
A tree saddle has worked great for me. You don't have a platform, or rails to get in your way.
For me it is a trade off. Shoot from a tree, have a more narrow angle and get detected less, or sit on the ground and get detected a whole lot more but have more freedom. I do both with 66-70" longbows. I prefer the ground but end up in trees a lot more. Too many deer. They walk all over me and eventually smell me. I always just approach every situation differently.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
QuoteJohn Lee is taking orders for a limited edition book on Howard Hill. There are only 100 copies to be printed, its beautiful book has a lot of color pictures of Howards bows.
I've got my order in. [/b]
Me too!
God bless,Mudd
Just left a message for john,looking forward to this!
Just curious ,what arrows and particulars are everyone using with your Hills?
I am using footed hexshafts made up by Bob Burton at Whisperingwind arrows. They are cut 30" BOP with 125 grain heads; spine AMO 60/64@28 makes them 50/54@30; total weight with points 565 grains. Shoot them out of all my Hill bows which range from 45#@29 to 48#@29
fellas please tell me how to get my order in to J. lee for the book.
thanks
patrick
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
fellas please tell me how to get my order in to J. lee for the book.
thanks
patrick
the book is not from john lee, it's from bob burton, and it appears this book is essentially a collector's history of howard's tackle - bows, arrows, broadheads, quivers - dating from 1920-1960 and not about howard hill biographical, hunt, stories, personal info or events.
as such, i'll pass on the book.
bob is not a trad gang sponsor - pm me if you require a link.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
fellas please tell me how to get my order in to J. lee for the book.
thanks
patrick
the book is not from john lee, it's from bob burton, and it appears this book is essentially a collector's history of howard's tackle - bows, arrows, broadheads, quivers - dating from 1920-1960 and not about howard hill biographical, hunt, stories, personal info or events.
as such, i'll pass on the book.
bob is not a trad gang sponsor - pm me if you require a link. [/b]
Who did Ron Order his book from then? I made a call to John Friday but I think he is out of town for the weekend. John has enough info to right a book thats for sure. I will let you all know what I find out.
I will get any book from either of the dudes mentioned, Should prove informative and just plain ole good stuff to read.
Happy 4th to all,
CTT
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
QuoteJohn Lee is taking orders for a limited edition book on Howard Hill. There are only 100 copies to be printed, its beautiful book has a lot of color pictures of Howards bows.
I've got my order in. [/b]
This is the Ron I mentioned above. I will call Ron and ask him.
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
QuoteOriginally posted by MT Longbow:
fellas please tell me how to get my order in to J. lee for the book.
thanks
patrick
the book is not from john lee, it's from bob burton, and it appears this book is essentially a collector's history of howard's tackle - bows, arrows, broadheads, quivers - dating from 1920-1960 and not about howard hill biographical, hunt, stories, personal info or events.
as such, i'll pass on the book.
bob is not a trad gang sponsor - pm me if you require a link. [/b]
Who did Ron Order his book from then? ...
[/b]
chuck, you have a pm .........
Got it, Thanks Rob and Ron and Mudd. I am gonna git one for sure.
Ok, so Rob, Ron, Mudd, and Chuck have "The Secret Handshake"!
So, Who in the heck has this book, Please! :D
What Frank said!
if you wanna know about 'the book', pm me.
Just secured my copy, thanks Mudd for the info!!!
Patrick
I hope everyone has a copy of Don Carson's
"Early Adventures witH Howard Hill " ... now that is a fine book that encompasses everything about archery that I love ... long longbows , hunting , roving ... having fun
I'm pretty sure Ted at Raptor stocks it .
A Great book !
A little birdie told me that something of the "Howard Hill" style will be ready to ship next week... :dunno:
My two Hill style bows by John Lee. "Maggie" and "Blue Duck"
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small17759682.JPG)
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small14531381.JPG)
sweet !
Man are those just dandy looking Ron !
Do they have a touch of string follow a la' Miller/Schulz ?
Yes, one is an osage with bamboo, no glass and the other is bamboo core with glass belly and fiber back. You'll notice that the grips are narrow and not much of a shelf. John builds them like many of Howards early bows that he has in his collection.
Here's John and I the day he brought the Maggie bow to my house.
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small54704591.JPG)
well, the bears won this round, sneaky buggers! but I'll be back this fall... :)
meanwhile, nothing much better than roving/stumpshooting in the high country, seeing deer, antelope, elk, and a wolf....oh, and seeing a straight stick accented against a great backdrop...
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/natesteen/Stanleypics2011006.jpg)
this is my hunting backyard, spend alot of time with the longbow out here....looking forward to going back this fall
My lord, I need to live in the mountains! What a place to carry a longbow and hunt critters. Just breathtaking!
Nate, I can smell the sage and the pines just by looking at that photo. Excellent!
Still a boatload of snow up in those thar mountains, eh?
Pretty country. Looks about like where I go hunting.
Nate, That white glass really looks good, and it really doesn't stand out that much in that back drop. I bet you couldn't pick it out in a grove of Aspens
BTW the more I shoot my new SUNSET HILL the less I want to shoot my other bows.
My "GO TO" bow for sure!
... i want a play date in Nate's backyard .....
Ben,
Rik and I are awaitin' for ya....but you must bring a bevy of your Hill sweethearts with you... :)
that white glass bow was almost the undoing of a nice bear a few weeks back...he came within 10 yards of me and wasn't spooked.....we'll see how white glass does this fall. I'm anxious for a special story about that bow...there's some mojo behind it and we'll see how the fall season pans out.
inbetween times shooting and roving, I managed to read "Sherwood" completely through...all 500+ pages, and got further into "White Company"....good reading for sure!
Nate ... who wrote " Sherwood " ...?
Pm sent
His backyard is awesome looking!
Ahh -- second page again!
I want to move back west again seeing Nate's pictures... I'm learning to appreciate the eastern forests, but they'll never compare to the mountains and high desserts out west.
Ok here is a topic I'd like to discuss, what , on average is the HH bow produced by Craig Ekin cut off center, what are your shelves measured at as far as cut not to center. are the individual bows offered cut to different centers based on bow material? Bamboo vs elm for instance? Bow length? Nate what do you cut yours to and why?
If cutting a bow to center is easier in theory to tune and less critical to arrow spine for matching, why dont longbows get cut closer to center?
Patrick
thanks
With older selfbows the shelf was not cut into the bow. (ex: an english longbow) If you look at some of Howard Hill's personal bow (I am going by pictures, never handled one) they do not have alot of shelf. I think that sticking to the true Hill way of building the bow may be part of it. My Sunset Hill that I just got is about 3/16. It may also have to do with the strength in the handle. Cutting a bow in past center takes stronger materials. Just thoughts, lots of bowyers on the site will have better answers.
Craig's bows at Howard Hill Archery are cut approx 1/8" from center then the rest/sideplate is attached. My 4 Hills with the leather rest/sideplate measure approx 3/16 from center.
what mikem said - craig cuts 'em 1/8" proud of center and it'll be about 3/16" with a leather or velcro pressure plate. that works fine for me, but i wouldn't want it more that for the different arrow spines and types i like shooting. for a 1/16" less, i use a piece of .010" teflon tape for the arrow plate. :)
most straight-end longbows are cut about the same...1/8 - 3/16 from true center to edge of bare wood then add the leather, etc. This keeps enough material in the handle area for strength. If you look at a r/d bow or recurve, there is enough mass in the handle to offset the handle from the limbs and make the bow centershot and still be strong.
looking at Hill's personal bows, they were very slim through the handle, so Hill didn't cut much into the bow for a shelf, and almost exclusively he did not use a side pressure plate...just let the arrow pass over the wood. This was very common from the old self-bow days where bowyers would usually add a more dense material into the riser for a pressure plate...sometimes mother of pearl, bone, antler, hardwood, etc. This helped keep the arrow as close to center as possible so arrow spine issues were minimized.
I think leather or rug arrow shelf rests and plates only became real popular with the intro of the recurve and the deeper sight window and arrow clank....previously it isn't seen much in the older bows
Like Nathan said.
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small14531381.JPG)
David Miller told me that Howard Hill did not use a side plate because he shot the bows as he was making them and cut the shelf in just a little at a time until the arrow struck right where he was looking. He did not use an arrow plate because the wear of it as he shot (a lot) would change the center shot he had so painstakingly built into each bow as it wore thinner.
I have one of Howard's and no arrow plate, very thin shelf.
As a lot of you know, I often go with no shelf at all and love it.
Someone will have to verify this, but I believe that for a lot of longbow shoots there is actually a restriction against closer than 1/8". I don't think that's universal, but I've heard it mentioned a time or two.
Texas State Longbow Shoot does not allow centershot bows and I think the IBO also has the restrictions.
Good stuff fellas!
years ago, I used black electrical tape for a side pressure plate for awhile....it kept the bow from being marred by the arrow, it was slick, and slightly quieter than the bare wood....cut to fit it didn't look too bad and could be replaced as needed.....it was one of Duke Savora's tricks. anyone remembe him?
for those who might want to see slow mo photos of longbows and wood arrows in action....check out utube peter stecher movie 2011. a short promo of Hill longbows for the european audience. neat photos of archer's paradox, arrow rotation, etc....
Oh, yeah, Nate, I remember Duke--Savora broadheads....still have a few in the stash.
For a good length of time, I owned a Duke Savora Takedown recurve, which I trust is still curculating out there-very slim, deep grip handle and a smooth recurve, actionwood cores.
I wrote this poem in 1981, one year before before Craig Ekins book, Howard Hill The man and the Legend came out.
Archerys Legend......... by Ron LaClair,1981
The Bow and Arrow is centuries old
it was designed by man to kill
Down through the years many stories were told
but one name stands out... HOWARD HILL
His love for the bow was a lifelong affair
his ability has never been matched
This man from the south had a quality rare
The list is long of the game he dispatched
A hunter without equal was this man Hill
but he was more than just good with a bow
He was larger than life with a cast iron will
A man you'd be real proud to know
He did more for his sport than any man
He brought archery to the public eye
Movies and books were his master plan
his dream was to kill the big five
Children adored him, grown men were his fans
His charm gave people a lift
The strength was great in his arms and his hands
He said his talent was a God given gift
Now Mister Hill has gone on to his Lord
He left a void that no one can fill
In the hearts of all Archers the memory is stored
of the man, and the Legend, HOWARD HILL
That is awesome, Ron!
I remember a year or two ago we had Ron convinced to spend some quality time writing a book to share some of his great memories and adventures and pictures.
I think we need to work on him some more to make sure he keeps that pen a writin'.
Excellent Ron! You carry a smart size torch yourself. Ain't no secret. Thanks for all you've done. Much continued success. Poems too.
:thumbsup:
Did someone say lectric tape?
Yeah, I use "White Man's Leather"! :D
Great stuff!
:notworthy: :notworthy: :clapper: :clapper: Nice one Ron!
A few of you have known me for a while. Most of you have teased me for just about as long, for more things than I can count.
SO. . . with only seven weeks remaining until elk season, it's long since time I made this admission------ Yes,it's true, I am a long-timer. I admit it, I make no bones about it.
But here's the thing. Until this last weekend, I did not realize how much of a long-timer (a.k.a. "old-timer") I really am.
It seems, in writing a letter to Rod Jenkins of Safari Tuff this last weekend, I realized this coming fall will be the 30th anniversary of what, in my life, was THE most life-changing event I have experienced.
The day that event occurred changed everything, from where I would choose to live to what I would choose to do to make a living, to who I would marry. It was a truly memorable day. . .
Since the topic is not totally Hill Bow related, if you are interested, you should travel on over to page three of the Arrowmaster Quiver thread.
Seems this archer has taken up a challenge that will make some of you applaud, that some of you will question, and that will make some of you scratch your heads and wonder just what in tarnation is wrong with me.
Too late though, I have made the decision———Come Hell or High water, this is going to be one whale of an elk season.
. . . Oh yeah, there's one more revelation to come, but that's two or three weeks away. No peeking!
Go get 'em buddy !
:thumbsup:
OK Rik!
You can do it!
Inquiring minds want to know which longbow you will holdin' when that ArrowMaster is hangin' by your side?
I mean if you pull the slide-on bowquivers off your old longbows they might - might, I say - just delaminate....
:~)
Shoot straight, Shinken
:archer2:
tembo and friends ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/coral_tembo.jpg)
Rob just want you to know that once I sell some bows I am getting a bow just like yours, I believe it is the best looking hill I have ever seen. BTW what is that riser wood?
Rik.....
you...a bare Hill bow....photo of elk.....priceless :thumbsup:
My 85# Big Five that I got in 1977. Time hasn't changed the classic Hill bows much but time sure does change us... :D
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/Cornfield_Buck.jpg)
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/buckskin%20bowman.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by ChrisM:
Rob just want you to know that once I sell some bows I am getting a bow just like yours, I believe it is the best looking hill I have ever seen. BTW what is that riser wood?
the riser is paduak. i just swapped out the leather plate/rest for one of teflon tape - don't like the tan color but it works slicker'n snot. :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/rfdee/archery/tembo2-1.jpg)
The quiver in this picture was one I made from a tanned Jersey cowhide. A fella ask me at a shoot one time what kind of quiver it was and I told him it was Loin skin from the Lion I killed with a bow when I went to Africa with Howard Hill. The guy actually believed me for awhile but I couldn't keep a straight face... :rolleyes:
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small30386536.JPG)
Ron,
back in the 80's, I would look eagerly for your photos of you and longbows with game, always thinking you were a class act....you still are.
I especially remember an ad for Andersen's or the early GLLI which showed a close-up face-on photo of you drawing a heavy bow and shield cut fletching on your arrows...I think it was a Maulding longbow.....the photo depicted alot of power and simplicity.....
always look forward to your stuff... :thumbsup:
Rob, "slicker than snot" lol lol
is that the bow you were going to make into a take down?
Thank you Nathan. I'm not sure but is this the picture you're talking about,..I'm shooting a Ron Maulding bow. Tim Cosgrove put this picture on the cover of his Kustom King catalog a couple years ago. Inside the catalog it said it was a picture of me when I was younger.. :confused: you mean I don't look like that anymore?.. :saywhat: :dunno: .... :D
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/Ron_shooting_aerials.jpg)
no, the photo I'm remembering is one of you in a white t-shirt (maulding logo)....I think you were photographed in a big tent
I look at that photo and realize that if Ron had posed in the exact same way with a compound, it would have had zero magic. However, with a longbow, that is one great photo! If I was a compound shooter, one look at a photo like that would instantly tell me I need to start shooting a longbow!
On a slightly different topic, I posted this last night on a different web site, but I think some of you might enjoy this DVD as well. Here's the post (the guys were discussing whether to get yew or bamboo limbs in a Hill bow).
____________________________
. . . we are discussing the relative merits of Tonkin Cane, or as we call it, Tonkin Bamboo.
If you are interested, there is no finer presentation of the growing, gathering, and use of Tonkin Cane than is shown in the video "Trout Grass."
The video will take you take you to southern China, where our beloved bow grass is grown and selected. The video deals primarily with Tonkin Cane selected for the creation of fine, and I do mean FINE, Bamboo Fly Rods, but it is the same Tonkin Cane Howard Hill Archery uses.
I warn you though—do not order the DVD if you do not enjoy beautifully artistic videography, spectacular scenery, and soulful solo banjo music. For those of you who enjoy these things and order the video, I warn you, if you watch this DVD, you are doomed to a life of bamboo-cored bows, and will never again love a fishing rod not made of Toknin Cane.
You have been warned. I did my best.
— TROUT GRASS—
That is one memorable photo. It speaks right to the purity of shooting a bow and arrow. Thank you for sharing your photos.
I love bamboo...in my bows, in my flyrods...
Rob D.....you make very pretty arrows....do you always use Sharpies? I've been tinkering with the Sharpies and finding them handy.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
The quiver in this picture was one I made from a tanned Jersey cowhide. A fella ask me at a shoot one time what kind of quiver it was and I told him it was Loin skin from the Lion I killed with a bow when I went to Africa with Howard Hill. The guy actually believed me for awhile but I couldn't keep a straight face... :rolleyes:
Ahhh, the palaver of a mountainy man! Ron, that just cracks me up. It has a similarity to the story that Swineheart relates in Saggittarius where Howard was enjoying a cool beverage at an establishment. The keeper was saying how he knew Howard and all. As they were leaving, the keeper asks Howard his name and the truth was revealed.
Great to see the "vintage" photos and read your descriptions. As a gray bearded, later in life lover of the long bow, I am studying and enjoying what I can find about the subject.
Well Nathan there's this photo that was taken in the tent at Andersons Clinic by Robert Combs and printed in Bow and Arrow magazine. I was shooting my 105# Maulding bow through the chronograph. I remember I got 220FPS which in those days was more that the average compound bow. It left em scratching their heads... :saywhat:
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/104%23_through_crono.jpg)
Ron,
that's the 2nd half photo...lol. the same scenario, at full draw was the one I remember. You probably had several photos taken and Andersen's used the other one.... No wonder the image of power..105# wow.
Ron I believe you were born a 100 years to late you are a moutain man in heart and soul besides being a gentleman thanks for your contribution to this thread and others.Nate Steen is also a class act a damn good bowyer, Thanks to all who keep this thread going. Ron Roehrick.
Years ago I was made a Life member of the original Howard Hill Club that was formed when Howard lived in California. Some will recognize the name of Hugh Rich. Hugh was a friend of Howards and a great arrow maker. He made all of Howards arrows that he took to Africa to film the movie Tembo.
Hugh was a great letter writer and I have many letters that he wrote to me. I also talked many hours on the phone with Hugh. I treasure the memory of those conversations.
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small12847472.JPG)
Number 105, was that a coincidence?
Patrick
i cannot find the letters i got from Hugh Rich, I must have put them somewhere special. I did find the ones from Frank Eicholtz in my search. I got speed numbers like that with a couple of my heavier bows and a Schulz, I do not remember the arrow weights. the wheelie guys were claiming of all the things they did with their overdraws etc. so they should be getting 300 pfs, then when they would actually shoot the number came back way less. they declared the crono to be way off. when I shot and the numbers were about same they were convinced the machine was reading it all wrong. When the fellow with the Bingham homemade recurve of unknown draw shot, they were furious because he got just as fast a reading as my heavier bows. I still don't know what those arrows weighed or even if the machine was accurate, but it was a fun comparison.
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
Hugh was a friend of Howards and a great arrow maker. He made all of Howards arrows that he took to Africa to film the movie Tembo.
Sorry to correct you Sir, but the arrows were made by Ben Pearson Archery and Hugh Rich's job was it to inspect/control them.
Rob,
Where do you get teflon tape with glue on the back and thick enough for a side plate? The only teflon tape I can find is the the one you would use on pipe threads!!!
Frank
Fxjr....the idea of the tape is to keep it thin...no bulk and slick
another trick I used to do years ago was a bandaid covered with electrical tape....just enough pad to be quiet but very thin and slick...and very redneck chic...
QuoteSorry to correct you Sir, but the arrows were made by Ben Pearson Archery and Hugh Rich's job was it to inspect/control them.
You're right, I stand corrected. It's been a long time since that conversation with Hugh. Although I believe that Hugh made the bowstrings for Howards bows.
Hugh WAS a master arrow maker, he told me he taught Don Brown the art of making arrows. There was some bad blood between Hugh and Don when Don left.
I've got some old pages from Don's Archery shop advertising bows,arrows, and leather goods....
Don was a great longbow shot, heavy bow puller and also great flight shot with Hill style longbows and recurves.
I wonder if anyone has one of his all bamboo longbows with the fiberglass 'stay' in the core...
I've still got some Sweetland Forgwood arrows that Don made for me. His name and my name plus the # on each arrow. They're real heavy spine so I can't shoot them anymore.
what! Ron, you mean you're using bow weights like the rest of us now? I'd be willing to bet you are still shooting through animals.....lol
Quotewhat! Ron, you mean you're using bow weights like the rest of us now? I'd be willing to bet you are still shooting through animals.....lol
:saywhat: ....Who'd a thought... :dunno: ...
QuoteOriginally posted by FXJr:
Rob,
Where do you get teflon tape with glue on the back and thick enough for a side plate? The only teflon tape I can find is the the one you would use on pipe threads!!!
Frank
it's commercial industrial teflon tape that i had gotten 25 years ago to line steel rollers that i used during soft surfboard foam heat welding construction. i have no clue where to get it today but i bet it's available on the net. it's super thin and mic's at .0045".
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
I look at that photo and realize that if Ron had posed in the exact same way with a compound, it would have had zero magic. However, with a longbow, that is one great photo! If I was a compound shooter, one look at a photo like that would instantly tell me I need to start shooting a longbow!
On a slightly different topic, I posted this last night on a different web site, but I think some of you might enjoy this DVD as well. Here's the post (the guys were discussing whether to get yew or bamboo limbs in a Hill bow).
____________________________
. . . we are discussing the relative merits of Tonkin Cane, or as we call it, Tonkin Bamboo.
If you are interested, there is no finer presentation of the growing, gathering, and use of Tonkin Cane than is shown in the video "Trout Grass."
The video will take you take you to southern China, where our beloved bow grass is grown and selected. The video deals primarily with Tonkin Cane selected for the creation of fine, and I do mean FINE, Bamboo Fly Rods, but it is the same Tonkin Cane Howard Hill Archery uses.
I warn you though—do not order the DVD if you do not enjoy beautifully artistic videography, spectacular scenery, and soulful solo banjo music. For those of you who enjoy these things and order the video, I warn you, if you watch this DVD, you are doomed to a life of bamboo-cored bows, and will never again love a fishing rod not made of Toknin Cane.
You have been warned. I did my best.
— TROUT GRASS—
I have built split cane (bamboo) fly rods for many years. I just finished this one and delivered on stream to it's new owner yesterday evening.
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc333/jcj138265/2601.jpg)
(http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc333/jcj138265/2602.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
Years ago I was made a Life member of the original Howard Hill Club that was formed when Howard lived in California. Some will recognize the name of Hugh Rich. Hugh was a friend of Howards and a great arrow maker. He made all of Howards arrows that he took to Africa to film the movie Tembo.
Hugh was a great letter writer and I have many letters that he wrote to me. I also talked many hours on the phone with Hugh. I treasure the memory of those conversations.
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small12847472.JPG)
see the number on your card ...105 did you do that on purpose? For 105 # bow
Well, the quest has begun. . . I went scouting this weekend for a new area to hunt elk. Last year I had to pack up and move my elk camp seven times because of wolves. This year I am searching for new elk country in an entirely different part of the state. Hopefully a place with a lot less wolves.
The area I scouted this weekend was beautiful, and there are some elk there, but they don't live there in September. In two days of hiking, I found not one single elk rub from years past. That means they do not live there in September. So much for this weekend's scouting trip. Next week it will be on to a different mountain range.
Even though this weekend's scouting trip did not result in a great elk location, it wasn't a complete loss.
I did have a great view from camp.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/bow_quiver_meadow.jpg)
The view from high up on the mountain was not too shabby (the trailhead is way, way down at the bottom, several hours back).
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/32a_scenery.jpg)
Oh yeah, I almost forgot. Seems my timing is just a bit off. Nine days after the end of bear season what should I find? Yes, you guessed it, A BEAR.
He was feeding eagerly on fresh grass out in the middle of a high meadow. The snow had just melted and the grass was just beginning to sprout. This grass will be about a foot tall in a week or so.
'Twas an easy stalk, too bad it wasn't bear season!
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Unit32a_bear2.jpg)
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Unit32a_bear1.jpg)
Wow! Those are some great photos Rik!
Thank you for sharin' your scoutin' trip with us!
Looks like you've got a Helle knife hangin' on your back quiver there?
Good luck on your next outin' to find some bull activity!
Shoot straight, Shinken
Beautiful spot mate !
You are in gods country for sure Rik. BTW for those learning like me I finnally got my Hill tuned with arrows I have on hand (poor at the momment) and have got my gpp approaching 12 and this thing is smooth and hard hitting and I noticed no loss in cast from my 9 GPP that fley good to these. In fact that lower GPP it was harder to aim as the shot would shake my vision and make it difficult to follow the arrow and for my instictive sights make the adjustments for future shots. The lesson here is go heavy with a hill its what they like and what you will love. I can see how people have put down a hill if they never went heavy 'cause that don't have to with the other bows and don't know to with a hill.
Since Chris brought up the subject of Hill tuned arrows, I must tell you of my new discovery - something which I read in one of Howard Hills' great books. I was finally able to bring a Sitka Spruce shaft to a gradual tapering from 23/64" to 5"16" from the point to the nock. It took a 75-pound spined shaft down to 50 spine test, created a natural weight FOC, and with broadheads weigh out to 625 grains and shoot like darts from my 45-pound Big Five. This takes a lot of work but with the use of a drill press, and varying grades of sandpaper, six matched arrows became a worthy result.
Rob,Nathan thank you both for your answers. I will have to see if any of my construction friends have any idea about the tape.
Frank X.
FX, check out McMaster Carr, out of Chicago. They have industrial teflon coated tapes in various thicknesses! Were slipping :(
Ordered a hill glove yetarday, does any of y'all use one? I currently use a dura glove but have had some finger soreness due to the haevier weight and figured I would give this one a try. I like the idea of slipping the stalls off and still having the glove attached.
I usually use a tab or bare fingers but if using a glove it'll be an American Leathers Buffalo. Its a great glove and very well made .
This is me with Howards personal glove in 1980. I've got it on my left hand and you can see that the cup on my index finger doesn't fit...it's a right hand glove.
(http://www.shrewbows.com/rons_linkpics/Hill_shoot_%235.jpg)
I use a Hill style glove most of the time...like the inserts. However, the Bigshot is a great glove, great guy to deal with at American Leathers, and if you like inserts, the Crossover is a good glove also...
some guys have a problem with the Hill style gloves slipping off your fingers too easily...the old Schulz trick was to use baseball rosin on the fingers, which transferred to the leather stall and held the stalls tight....I now prefer to moisten my fingers in my mouth and slip into the glove while wet....the leather will stick very well to your finger as the finger dries (that's an old trick from Saxton Pope!)
no way would i ever use a glove - i make my own thin latigo leather tab that simply works best for me. i know guys using gloves that are struggling to achieve a good release but won't change 'cause "howard used a glove". :rolleyes: to each their own. i'll take function over form any day. :D
I have tried a tab and on my recurve I can use one but the hill and its weight I tend to "grip the string" too much and pull the arrow off of the shelf. Just can't have a relaxed hand. I may just be mental been using a glove for so long that they are like my "Binki"
I like a big shot glove, but have to try on a bunch of them before I find one that will fit. The stalls are usually too long. I have short fat fingers. I end up buying a medium and using liberal amounts of pitch blend on my fingers and they fit rather quickly, they stretch a little. I guess I like damascus as well, but don't like how the sometimes feel a little sloppy, the big shot always feels tight.
I like the Bateman cordovan glove with the inserts. I have used it almost daily since last October and it is holding up well. The Deluxe Hill glove grooved in a few months. If the Bateman wears out I will try the American Leathers glove with inserts. The elastic on the back looks like it will solve the problem of the finger stalls slipping.
Yeh Matt,you do seem to have a strangly shaped hand that seems just right for holding a Hill bow, How you been anyhow?
I may try a tab one day but I don't know how they are suposed to fit. I looked in the new Lancasters BOOK and they have about 10,00 to choose from. I still have my glove.
Chuck
Hi Chuck,
Doing well, shooting in the evenings a bit but very busy with a new job. I have to make time for getting the arrows tuned for animals so I have begun making final adjustments. I really like the new Griz El Grande heads, they've improved the grind, and the overall head and they should be a snap to sharpen now.
I bought Patrick's hill Robin Hood and it is dual shelf, so my back has been feeling better because I can work both sides a little easier! I wish my form right handed was as good as it is lefty...
How are things going for you this summer?
Good! I need to shoot lefty also to keep lined up, I have been shooting alot,I have a new design That I have been testing for about 100-200 shots per day, and it is coming along nice but my back and neck are cracklin. You will see it at GLLI. I quite sure you will like it, It has one of them grips you like.
Thank you Ron for sharing with us, means alot to me and nathan too.
You're welcome Todd, I enjoy sharing with everyone.
As for a tab verses a glove, it's a personal thing. When I was shooting heavy bows 75# up to over 100# I used a Hill style glove with the stays in the face of the finger stalls. This was the best style for finger protection. Now that I shoot lighter weight bows 45 to 55# I like a tab.
I use to put string wax in the finger stalls to keep them on my fingers. The old string wax that I use to make was the Pope and Young formula of bees wax and resin, the resin making it stick. Still it was a constant habit to sometimes before a shot to tap the ends of the fingers to seat the glove down on the fingers.
In this old video clip from 1981 you can see me do that a couple times. This clip was shot for the TV show, "Michigan Outdoors". The target was a steel Bionic bear with a 8" circle cut out of the kill zone. The stake in front of me was 15yds so I was shooting from about 18yds, demonstrating the versatility of the longbow. The bow as I recall was a Ron Maulding Big Horn 70", 70# bow
http://www.tradgang.com/videos/ronlaclair/ronl-2.wmv
Nice shooting Ron, I sometimes wonder how big your box of memories really is. You been doing it along time buddy. And just so you know,i give Brian Cole and You the credit(blame) for kicking me down the trail I have taken.
THANK YOU.
CTT
Thanks Chuck, I'll pass that on to Brian. He's down in Nashville right now makin music..
My "Box of memories" is pretty full but every once and a while when I shake it up something from the past comes to the top.. :readit:
Hey, it's all about new challenges and havin fun, right?... :dunno:
You go for that one Mr. Laclair! That would be awesome. If you could have the grip like the John Lee classic you showed in the picture, straight, narrow, and wider belly to back maybe custom sized by hand, that would be the ticket. Maybe just a snid-bit of string-follow? straight? reflexed? I bet the your wheels are turnin.
Burn the spot,
Jeff
Great idea. I bet it would be second to none
Uh oh! :eek: I better start saving some money!
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
no way would i ever use a glove - i make my own thin latigo leather tab that simply works best for me. i know guys using gloves that are struggling to achieve a good release but won't change 'cause "howard used a glove". :rolleyes: to each their own. i'll take function over form any day. :D
But Rob, that's the way it goes: "to each their own"
I'd never use a Tab. Gloves simply work best for me.
So to all: just try what fit's best for Y O U !!!
QuoteOriginally posted by tg2nd:
QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
no way would i ever use a glove - i make my own thin latigo leather tab that simply works best for me. i know guys using gloves that are struggling to achieve a good release but won't change 'cause "howard used a glove". :rolleyes: to each their own. i'll take function over form any day. :D
But Rob, that's the way it goes: "to each their own"
I'd never use a Tab. Gloves simply work best for me.
So to all: just try what fit's best for Y O U !!! [/b]
no "buts" needed, yer right on the money, it's all good, do what you want! :D
QuoteOriginally posted by Ron LaClair:
I've been talking to Gregg Coffey and there just may be a Hill style bow made by the Shrew Company sometime in the near future... :readit:
Hey, it's all about new challenges and havin fun, right?... :dunno:
I'm with you, David. I thought when I started building my own Hill style bows that I wouldn't have to save for another new bow. Now this! ;)
Ron ... put me down as ya first order !
Thanks Ben, would you settle for 2nd? I got the first order a couple hours ago. :readit: ............... :campfire:
Ron emailed me Charlie's post. Truth is, Charlie's had bow building burning in his heart for a long time - Ron and I simply threw a few more logs on the fire. Good on ya Charlie, I'm proud of you.
bc
Yep I got the order first :bigsmyl: Now I just need to get with Ron and see what kinda wood and glass and such he plans on using. I thinkn I will really like the "2X4" handle. Can't hardly wait.
Cant wait to see this!Carry on Ron!LOL
Dawg gone it Brian is that you? Longtime no see brother. I hope all is great with you and yours. I guess it is fitting to say that you,Brian Cole, sold me my first "Real" Longbow after I got out of the U.S.Navy. A slim and trim 76# Tim Meigs Hill style Longbow with about 3" of setback. Mr.Ron sold me my #2 Real bow,A wee little bugger called a "Shrew".More easy to shoot at 63# I THANK YOU both,Kindly.
Charlie(as my old friends call me).
Ron,
what an itch to scratch! That's the spirit:) after seeing bows produced and named after other Hill enthusiasts, it'd be neat to see a model line named after Mr. John Lee....."Lee Special" or something like.... He along with you have done alot for keeping the straight-stick flame flickering.
there's something about the simplicity of the Hill longbow that holds it's allure with us....
there's new life in the Hill thread! a new bug has bitten! :thumbsup:
When Ron's puts up his classy straight-stick photos, it reminds me of the photos I was struck with so many years ago, which fanned my Hillstyle flame..... guess who?
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/natesteen/howardhill6-e1266633694584.jpg)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/natesteen/howardhill5.jpg)
Nate
Nate ... that top photo of John Schulz is one of my all time favourites ... Saw it in a copy of Archers Digest years back .
Nice one !
If I can get in early and get me a Shrew Hill style my collection will be near complete .
At present I have
4 Howard Hill
2 Belcher Union Jacks
1 Northern Mist
1 Dave Miller
I need these to complete my straightb limb collection ...
*1 Sunset Hill :coffee:
*1 Shrew Hill :goldtooth:
*To find my original Schulz lefty that I sold or a replacement :dunno:
* Tim Meigs
* Frank San Marco
Nate, you put a smile on my face, thank you. :D
You guys have gave me the itch , I got a signed by Howard Hill first edition of
( Hunting The Hard Way )about 10 years ago from an old fellow and read it again in the last few days. So now I found me a Big 5 that is on the way should have it in a week or so , Im sure I will have questions it is all yalls doing is what I am telling the wife,,,,,,Sam,,,,,,
It can be very hard to keep one's tongue at times...lol
I wish I had come to the knowledge of what Hills and/or Hill style bows do for my psyche sooner than I did...Oh never mind that.. no time for regrets when the future is ahead of me.
Thanks to those who share so much with the rest of us novices.
God bless,Mudd
Welcome aboard Sam! There is nothing like shooting a Hill style bow at game animals. Once you take game with a straight stick it will be hard to go back.
The photos on this thread are great. There is nothing that comes close to the allure of the long straight stick. Laclair, Schulz, Hill, it gets you excited about the archery all over again. I think it sturs up the roots of the longbowman in each of us.
Ron, you've put a smile on my face and a dream in my heart many times over the years starting back in the 80s. I'm very glad to have you back 'in the thick of things'... :clapper:
thank you, sir....
Nate
You think the guy in the t-shirt has enough arm for that 'Big Enough' bow.
Ron, have you ever built any Hill-style bows? If not, I, for one, would like to see your interpretation.
looper, I remember seeing a longbow called the "LaClair Special". I don't know who made it but it was a Hill style longbow.
TTT
QuoteRon, have you ever built any Hill-style bows? If not, I, for one, would like to see your interpretation
My interpretation would be a bow in the style that Howard built with the narrow wedge type grip, like John Lee makes now.
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small29081932.JPG)
(http://***********.bowsite.com/tf/pics/00small57441728.JPG)
Quotelooper, I remember seeing a longbow called the "LaClair Special". I don't know who made it but it was a Hill style longbow.
David, the "LaClair Special" that was made for me by Saxon Archery was a longbow but it was not a Hill style bow.
Good morning,
I'd like to know what are the right ratio between width,height and depth for an original peaked handle as old hill had; my current hill have a rounded handle but some years ago I try a peaked one and it was fine.
Marco.
The grips, like our hands are all different sizes. The fit is the key to shooting any bow well.
QuoteOriginally posted by dragonheart:
... The fit (grip) is the key to shooting any bow well.
i don't think so. i've hated the feel of the hill "tear drop" grip, but i shot a few of those quite well.
imo, what makes for a "good" longbow (or any stick bow, for that matter) is
consistency. without that, the best handle shape, or limb woods, or riser geometry or whatever is for naught. for each of us, some bows just work "better" than other bows. add to the equation that each bow with have a compromise of stability and speed. so there are lotsa ingredients that make up a longbow recipe that works best for each of us. and to our chagrin, it's really the arrow that's more important. :)
Quotethere are lotsa ingredients that make up a longbow recipe that works best for each of us. and to our chagrin, it's really the arrow that's more important. :)
Absolutely...many times when there's an arrow flight problem the arrow itself is one of the last things to be blamed.
Bow grips come in many sizes. There are many ingredients in the recipe as you put it for shooting longbows well. I think of the grip as the most important element in the Hill Style longbow. What wood is in the limbs, the length to draw ratio, etc. are all factors, and they have there priority, but the grip must fit to shoot really well.
I am not talking about some new design or handle shape. The grip needs to fit you the individual archer in size and shape. Why did Hill shoot a grip as big (back to belly) that he did? In the shape he did? It fit his style and his handsize. I am sure he could shoot any bow better than us, but what was his preference? What style of grip? I am sure he wanted the most accurate bow, considering he made his living shooting.
If you heel the bow and shoot this style, a bow with a teardrop shape handle works very well. If gives you a positive/consistent placement on the bow that is forgiving. If you shoot the Hill style properly. If you wrap your hand all the round the side of the bow, or shoot with a high wrist you get all kinds of problems. The grip is the key to the whole thing. If you get it right and shoot this form it is the consistency you are looking for.
I thought that I was really shooting the form that I was taught as a young man, Hill style. As I watched this thread and reviewed my John Schulz DVD on form along with the help of the videos on this thread, I have realized how much of a tune up I have really needed. I have strayed away from the basics and my shooting accuracy and most of all confidence has suffered.
One of the important benefits of shooting a specific style/form, it gives you the foundation. You can wander all over trying everything, or you can have a foundation of one style/technique. This leads to confidence and trained reaction when we get in those pressure situations. It gives you a place to fall back to review when you have shooting problems.
This is how they teach martial arts, a form or style, a foundation, archery is no different. In fact it is a form of martial arts. Without the basic fundamentals, to fall back on, you get really lost trying too much stuff.
You can put just about any bow in a talented archers hands and they can shoot it well. They will shoot their best with a bow with a grip that fits their hand right.
I believe that the fit of the grip is the most important factor for a significant improvement of our shooting accuracy. This given that the bow has arrows tuned to the bow and there is not some issues with the bow.
QuoteOriginally posted by dragonheart:
.... I believe that the fit of the grip is the most important factor for a significant improvement of our shooting accuracy. ...
if that's what it takes to make you consistently accurate, go for it! :thumbsup: :D
This a great thread. Several remarks by different people have reminded me of some subtle nuances of proper form with the straight grip Hill style bow that I had forgotten. Pics of great scenery and stories of adventure with the HH bow help pass the time while I wait out 105+ degree heat down here in OK.
Howdy!, I just got back from the PBS Gathering in WI, I passed on a Jack Howrd bow(painful), I passed on a Bill Stewart bow(stingy), I brought the late 70's HOWARD HILL home!!!!!!
NOW! How good are you Hill boys!
BM68588
61#@28"
QuoteOriginally posted by Two Tracks:
Howdy!, I just got back from the PBS Gathering in WI, I passed on a Jack Howrd bow(painful), I passed on a Bill Stewart bow(stingy), I brought the late 70's HOWARD HILL home!!!!!!
NOW! How good are you Hill boys!
BM68588
61#@28"
PICS Please!!!
Chuck, if it's a late 70's it was probably made by Ted Kramer or Tim Meigs. Tembo or Big 5?
This thread appears to have a magical, influence on people! LOL! Ol school works and is timeless.
Of course, you know we are wanting to see photos of the new Hill longbow. :thumbsup:
With that serial number, I'm betting it's a Big Five made by Tim Miegs. I think I remember reading the first letter was the model ("B" = Big Five), and the second letter was the bowyer...
OKIE MAN,
This one's for you. Photos of Idaho snow country to help you cool off, at least mentally. (P.S. Send some of that 105 degree weather our way, we need it to melt the snow that is keeping us out of elk country!)
My wife and I went to scout out some new country this weekend. As many of you know, we had quite a winter in Idaho this year. Well, suffice it to say, the area we tried to get to still has WAY too much snow to get there.
This photo shows where we had to hike to. See that snowy peak just to the right of my hat? Well, there is ten times that much snow on the other side, because the other side is facing north. It never sees the sun.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Hazard_lake_area_1.jpg)
We were fairly inspired to see the lack of snow on this south facing side, so on went the packs and off we went. We hiked over the top just to the right of the snow you see on that peak, and that was it. There is eight to ten feet of snow on the other side, and it stopped us cold.
It was far too dangerous to go any further because there are many blowdowns sticking up out of the snow, and one slip would mean broken legs for sure as you slid into a blowdown. So, I could not get into the new elk country I was looking for. I did get a chance to look down into it, and it looked even better than I had thought. Yes, there will be elk there. I just have to wait three weeks or so for the snow to melt, and I'll be back. This elk scouting gets a bit strenuous at times, but it pays off if you find the right spot. My mission this year is to find a place without wolves. In Idaho, that's about like finding a shoe sale with no women. Still, it CAN be done, and I am doing my best.
Oh yeah, I almost forgot to mention. We did find a fair amount of fresh elk sign on the southern side of the hill. Here's a photo to show you how fresh. In September, this bull, and the others who were leaving the tracks, will be down in the cool, damp, deep dark north facing stuff I could not get to this weekend.
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/Hazard_lake_track.jpg)
My imagination tends to run amuck this close to elk season, still. . . I am just about positive there are hundreds and hundreds of these running around. Well, maybe not hundreds, but dozens and dozens. Yeah that's it, Dozens and Dozens. . .
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/bull_lowres3.jpg)
P.S. Your guess: Photoshop. . . or Chuck Adams' camera?
Mighty fine Rik. I sit outside on my deck at near dark and drip sweat. I can`t imagine snow on the ground anywhere.RC
I was in Idaho last September to move my mother in-law back to OK. She lived south of Salmon in a small settlement called Lemhi. I was only there a few days to load her up and head back but, I was struck by the beauty of the place with few people and vast expanses of forest and rugged landscape. I appreciate your pics Rik and would surely send you some of this heat to melt the snow if I could.
Okie Man------ much appreciated. Send that hot weather north-west, ASAP!
This photograph does it little measure, but let your mind slow a bit. . . take a deep breath. . . imagine sititin' with binoculars in your hand and your back to a huge snowbank in July. Feel the cool mountain air. . .
I took this photo yesterday, near the middle of July. This is the side of the typically granite-covered Idaho mountain that faces south. It has had 100% sunshine since, well, sabertooth tigers roamed Idaho (and they did---in droves).
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/hazard1.jpg)
The country you have seen near Salmon is even better than this, but since it's a five-hour drive from here, the salmon country safe from me. I have a feeling you may someday stalk that country yourself, bow in hand. . . it might not be so safe then.
Ahh, but today we're interested in the other side of the mountain shown above, the side where the tasty elk reside.
Seems it has not seen actual, direct, sunshine since the last time the polar ice caps switched sides. That means it is cool, and dark, and steep, and deep. You can't get there from here.
You can't get there from the north either. At least, not without an armada's worth of gear and horses.
You can't get there from the south, at least until the middle of August.
But the best part is, you probably can't find a better place for me to spend three weeks in September, because you really can't get there from anyplace without a whole lot of work. Sounds like interesting country to me.
Never been there, but I suspect there's elk there.
Take that with a grain of salt, we Idaho boys tend to be a bit, well, touched in the head. Especially when it comes to elk country.
Especially hard-to-get-to WILD elk country.
Rik,
Are you packing llamas in this year?
Did you see any wolf sign or hear any?
Good hunting!
Ray
Ray,
That's the beauty of it---the wolf pack named for this drainage moved east, and took over the range of another wolf pack. I suspect the battle left serious carnage and blood trails on both sides.
One pack won the battle. That same pack also leaves no sign where I am hunting. Nary a track under the old snow. Nary a dropping from at least two years ago. Might be a one-year window of opportunity.
The winning wolf pack is gone, they have new country to the east. That leaves their country to me, and my wife, and our longbows.
Still, I need to get in there to see the rubs from last year. Won't be able to get in for three weeks, so that lets me scout two other new areas in the next two weeks. I will see the Tetons from one area. The other is still working it's way into my conscience, but it's out there. Somewhere.
This is starting to get exciting. . .
Good Luck after the Elk Rik. I enjoy your pics.
I must say I have picked up quite a bit from this Hill Bow thread and I don`t consider myself a beginner. Cool ain`t it.A Brotherhood inside a Brotherhood kinda.
1. Started adding a bit of little finger pressure on the bow hand per Rik and groups got a bit tighter.
2. Realized after reading a bit about brace heights that I was much to high with my big Five. Twisted down a bit and the bow seemed to "relax" a bit at the shot.
3.Decided to try the slight locator per Rob . I sent the straight handled Big Five to Mr. Craig at HH and he turned it in to one of the best feeling and consistant grips I`ve shot. I have to admit the Vince of Mohawk bows is the expert on grips for my liking.
4. Got a cordaven tab from Brother Mud and finally know what a slick release is...
5.Due to an ailing leg I have to really cut down on stuff to carry to the deer woods. I hunt a good bit for these Southern Whitetails from stands. I move a lot hunting primary feed trees so it is often that I will be packing a stand on my back. I`m gonna try to film some of my hunts this year and carrying a bit more gear I decided to try to not have to carry a quiver over the shoulder. so I played with a bow quiver on my Big Five. Works for Rik and thats where I got the idea.I have a couple of old selways so I slid one on and my acurracy improved even more from the added weight.Bow seemed a bit quieter as well.
Have not posted alot on here but check this thread everytime I log on. Good stuff.RC
Rik,
Its the stuff dreams are made of .
Nice one mate .
Looking forward to you videos RC.
Rik,
Always enjoy the pictures of those mountains in your backyard!
I did not know that ol Chuck A. had loaned you his camera! It takes those special trophy photos! :rolleyes:
Another question for Rik. Since you hunt in areas where you are few notches down on the food chain, do you carry a firearm in case a griz, lion, or a pack of wolves decide you look tastey? Living in OK I don't have those worries and could see me watching my backtrail alot while hunting up there.
For me, Always in Montana, Mountain lions, Bears and Wolves, especially back country Bears demand respect in the form of firepower...
If I could not carry a fire arm to back me up in a situation like that, I'd want to at least hunt with someone who is noticeably slower a foot than me...lol
God bless,Mudd
PS: RC you give me something to look forward to... thanks in advance!
QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
If I could not carry a fire arm to back me up in a situation like that, I'd want to at least hunt with someone who is noticeably slower a foot than me...lol
God bless,Mudd
PS: RC you give me something to look forward to... thanks in advance!
Mudd you are one honest man!!! That one got me laughin!
Rik, oh to be young"er" again. beautiful country and enjoy your photo's. Got "God's country" written all over it. good luck and be safe.
Wait a minute. . . what's this? Could it possibly be?
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/HH_Box_1.jpg)
Hmmm. . . perhaps I should look a bit closer. . .
(http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/tt252/Rikhinton/HH_Box_2.jpg)
Take-down?
$15.75 postage is such a deal, I'm paying $200 postage on my new hill!
Bugger, Ari! Is it new from Craig Ekin at Howard Hill Archery? The three that I've bought (one-piece bows) have all been about $115. Craig seems (or seemed) to have one of the best shipping deals around (for a one-piece). If you've bought the bow second-hand, I understand the cost, as I have paid up to $230 in shipping for a bow I thought I desperately needed.
I shipped one of my recurves over not long ago for less tha $100. It is about half as long as a hill tho. Overall dimensions exceeded the limit tho. $15.75 is much better eh?
Let's see what's in the box Rik. I love a Hill bow! I was only 1 1/2hrs south of Hamilton,MT when I was in Salmon and didn't get to go there. I think the wife knew what would happen. I would be looking for a place to put a 66" longbow in a little Toyota. Oh well, I made it on the Sunset Hill wait list and am looking forward to getting one of Nate's masterpieces soon.
The bow is a Miller Sage, should be here within a few weeks!
I'm not that concerned that the shipping is so high it's worth it, but $15 is cheap It almost cost me $10 just to send a DVD to someone else in Australia.
Rik !!!
C'mon man ........... :saywhat:
Hurry Up !!!!!
Bad enough that younpopst pictuers of what is most assuredly God's country but now your showing pics of unopened boxes from Craig .....
You is a bad man ..... :goldtooth:
Ari ... you'll love David Millers work !
To Melbourne Aus I'm paying at last $170 for a 1 piece bow ... $55 for a take down.
I bet Rik is out shooting!!!
Let's see, I think I am behind in answering some questions that have been asked.
Someone asked if the knife on my back quiver is a Helle. Yes, it certainly is. I always like to have a small knife on my quivers, and I am oh-so fond of the the Scandinavian grind. Mucho sharper than the grind on regular blades.
Someone else asked if I would be packing in with my llamas to hunt elk this year. Absolutely! It gets me into the deep back country, and there is nowhere better to be in September than the high country where other's just can't get to.
Okie Man asked whether I carry backup weapons when in the back country. Normally, no. However, with the wolves reaching saturation point in Idaho, I will now be carrying a .44 Magnum Smith and Wesson Mountain Gun. I hate to have to carry it, but I have a wife and llamas to protect. Wolves think llamas in camp are just elk tied to trees---dinner is served!
Well, I think that answers all the questions. I think I have covered just about everything.
Cool, Ari. Ben, are you saying that even a one-piece, brand-new Hill from Craig costs $170 to Melbourne? At the start of the year, it only cost me $115, less in Aussie dollars. The Black Widow crew also do a good deal to us with all bows being $95, at least they were a year ago.
QuoteOriginally posted by Rik:
.... Well, I think that answers all the questions. I think I have covered just about everything.
H3LL NO!!!!!!!! :banghead: :D
Rik,
I always thought you made your own arrows, and now I see the proof that HH Archery has been making them all along....you sly dog...camoflaging your arrows in a bow box... ;)
Ha ha .... nicely played Nate !
Ben ... yep $170 to Melbourne . Widow does it for $90 as of a couple of months ago .
Allan Boice at Liberty does the best shipping price around to Oz ... maybe I should order another English to find out lol.....
Rik ... dude ... c'mon ... if they ain't arrows in that box then you are surely hiding something .
Lemme guess ...
its your new osage 62" 40# @ 28 " Hill ? :bigsmyl:
good one Ben,
chuckled at that one....he he he
Fellas, it's a good thing Rik doesn't have too many other outdoor pursuits except hunting elk with longbows or he'd never have enough time to work or talk to his wife...
me, I'm trying to figure out how to hunt antelope, deer, elk, and bear in a 6 week span...I'm glad I use a backquiver, so I have enough arrows to cover any situation.....even if the grouse show up.... :)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr30/natesteen/hunting2010.jpg)
I'm not really familiar with grouse. I don't see any flu flu's in that quiver. Do you get those on the ground or are you just that good?
I would guess that was a little ground swattn.
flu flu's...what're those? out here, fool hens tend to jump into the nearest tree and you shoot 'em like a squirrel.
I have been known to disrupt an elk stalk to shoot any unsuspecting grouse that show up....and then commence the elk stalk...you need quiet arrows to shoot grouse when the elk are right over the hill. Flu flu's are too noisy for such foolishness, but cooked grouse at elk camp are as good as it gets for dinner fare.... :thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Okie man:
I'm not really familiar with grouse. I don't see any flu flu's in that quiver. Do you get those on the ground or are you just that good?
He's that good! Don't ever challege Nate to anything, including shooting his longbow. :archer2: :D
The idea of grouse hunting whilst chasin' elk , with my straight limb bow and a back quiver full of woodies ... heck yeah its my kinda stuff !
Its the classic , "Schulz, birds, bowstring" pictures that gets me thinking about airfares and the Rockies
I am ordering myself a new bow ...
A t/d ... airline friendly ...
But you do know Nate that it is not actually possible to take game without camo don't you ... so whatever you are playing at by posting those pics ..... sheesh .....
Note to self
*Stop pot stirring :saywhat:
*Be nice to Nate ... for when he takes me chasing grouse :thumbsup:
*Be mean to Rik for holdin' out on his mates :biglaugh: