I'm trying to set up some arrows for an upcomming trip to Africa. My main bow will be a Schafer 62# @29". If anyone has suggestions regarding Grizzlystik 15gr./Inch shafts I would be appreciative. I am thinking about a 30-31" length,300gr broadhead and 5" shield feathers. Should give me a 765-775 gr. finished arrow. I'm concerned that the arrow might still be a bit over spined for my bow. Anyone with experience with a set up that is similiar???
just curious. what is your broadhead with a weight of 300gr? is that with or without the insert? i have a dozen "medium" grizzlysticks, with 135gr broadheads, 5 3/4 feathers, weight about 720 grs. i shoot them out of a 67# sleybow recurve. they are extremely tough and durable arrows. the only practical experience i have with them, is on two medium size hogs. they performed very well. i have two with judos and they are tough, well worth the cost. happy new year and the best of luck on your hunt.
Turkey,
from what i understand stiks have a huge spine range so I think you'll be ok.
Aaron
The 300 grain weight is a combination of insert 75 gr.+ broadhead weight 125gr+ steel glue in adaptor 100gr. I hope the spine range is broad enough if not I'll probably have to go with the lighter weight shafts.
Love them Griz Sticks! Go with the Alaskans or Safari's, you should be able to get either one to tune in with point weight only. You'll wind up with more up front with the Safari's and they'll wind up closer to 800 grains then 700. 800 grains is 13gr/lb so not unreasonable....O.L.
I shoot the Alaskans with 150gr heads out of a 60# bow and four 3" feathers,love them. I agree, well worth the money.
I shoot alaskan 30" with 250 gr field point(145 gr broadhead+ 100gr steel adapter+ glue)with wrap and 3 5"5 feathers out of my PSA V 60#@29"
weight=700 gr
Love them :thumbsup: ;)
If they are too stiff ,turn the spine parallel to the string ,it works very well !
I've read the instructions regarding determining the spine side of the arrow but thus far I am uncertain what I am doing. My problem!! I'm waiting for some 250gr field points before starting the tuning process in earnest and fletching some shafts but I have set up one arrow at full length with 300 gr up front and I've been plesantly suprised. Thanks to all for the comments.
determining the spine is essential if you have a bad arrow flight!
For me,for a good arrow flight(tested by bare shaft and paper tunig methods )I had to put the spine "on top" parrallel to the string (not perpendicular to the string like written in ED's instructions)
For me it was a surprise to read that there was a spine on carbone shaft,and there is !!! :eek:
You can for sure feel the spine just by rolling them per the instructions. I do my golf club shafts the same way, heh heh.
QuoteOriginally posted by dhanson:
You can for sure feel the spine just by rolling them per the instructions. I do my golf club shafts the same way, heh heh.
Just curiuos....for those of us who do not have the instructions, what's the procedure? Will this work for all carbons?
My only suggestion would be to use some bigger feathers. Your shots are more than likely going to be close. Having a well tuned arrow is very important. Some 5.5 highcut feathers will help straigten things out a little quicker. Joseph
I'm curious as to finding spine also. I've had someone else describe the procedure, but wouldn't mind hearing it in someone elses words.
I bought two seperate 1/2 dozen sets used from different people. Both were supposed to be the Alaskans, but one set weighs 60gr per arrow heavier than the other even though they are only 1.25" longer, so I assume one set is really Sitkas & the other Alaskans. The heavier ones have more of a carbonfiber look showing, while the lighter ones have a more amber appearance with the carbon showing through less brialantly.
With the light ones assembled 28.5" bop, with the standard insert, a 125gr glue-on adapter & a 140 gr point, wraps & 3 5.5" feathers I get 700gr.
The heavier ones are 29.75 bop, & 3 5.0" feathers, otherwise the same. They weigh 760gr.
finding the spine is the same as when you wrap a fishing rod the spine has to be verticle with the guides. using a bare shaft put a strip of masking tape around the knock end so you can mark the spine put the point end on a table and the knock end in the palm of your hand, using your other hand press the center of the shaft twards the tabe a little then start rolling it while flexed. you should feel a sudden jolt when you roll over the spine do it back and forth till you pin point the spine and mark it on the tape.
There isn't a better carbon Hunting shaft available to Traditional hunters today, FACT !
DOOGS
I guided Ed Schlief on Water Buffalo last year and watched Ed put one of his Safari's through the center of the big buff's shoulder and clean out the far side of it's neck.
The buff trotted a short distance staggered around in a circle and fell over dead.
Ed recovered the arrow and it was in perfect condition. I shot a good buff the year before with a 2020 legacy that I put a 1/8th welding wire up the center. My arrow pulled up on the off-side leg but the buff covered about the same distance before going down. You sure wouldn't want to try and shoot that arrow again.
Good Topic! I shoot a 61lb recuve and my Grizzly Alaskans fly poorly. I have tried using different head weights to no avail. My arrows are 30.5 inches long. When I shoot, they very quickly kick left mid flight before hitting the target straight.
(Note: I also shoot left handed)
From the previous replies, I am wondering if the spine is not aligned properly?
PS I really want to get this arrow working for me as I quite like it!
Further to my previous reply: I just checked my arrows and it appears that My "stiks" are aligned perpendicular to the string. My arrows came with feathers on already so I am wondering if I am screwed? I can't just turn the arrow 90 degrees without re-fletching my arrows. Any suggestions?
The last set of Grizzly sticks I bought, a couple months ago, three of us could not find a "spine" by rolling them as described. We then put them on a spine tester snd spined them, then twisted them just a tad and spined again... all the way around the shaft. We found only a few pounds difference all the way around.
I like them. I get good flight, but they are heavy..like 725 to 750 the way I set them up, and these are the Alaskans.
ChuckC
In the event that anybody is not satisfied with their Grizzly stiks, please let me know. I will be happy to take them off you hands as long as they are 29 inches or longer in lenght.
I shoot a Silvertip 66lb at 29". I use Gold Tips 7595 with a 190 grn grizzly broadhead pluss 20grn brass weight and also add 40 grns to the nock end this gives arrow weight of around 720 grains. I also use (3) 5 1/2" right helical fletch feathers. I have shot this set up for quite a while and have blown thru elk, moose, bear, hogs, and deer with no problem. It will also shoot very flat out to about 30 yards before starting to drop off.
How do you all glue the inserts? I mean...how do you get the inserts straight? I'm haveing trouble getting those on the shafts. I need some tips.
I have the Sitka's in stock at this time. The Alaskans and Safari's are on BO. They are a great shaft.
(http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e358/BadgerArrow/sitka.jpg)
ak3blade,
I hav'nt had any problems installing the inserts. Make sure you have straight cut on your shafts.
Is there a way to desolve the epoxy in order to get the insert out? Out of one dozen shafts i ended up with 3 that are mounted correctly. Does anyone else have this problem?
Sitkas are for bow weights under 55# , Alaskan 50# to 80#,and Safari from 70# to 125# ,i would buy the Alaskan's . i am a new dealer for Grizzly sticks --- herb
Avalanche , couple of things you might try > try them cock feather in . or raise your nocking point a bit .you really should to the bow to the arrows . check out O L Adcocks website and follow his bow tuning directions . it might be a help --- herb
I have 18 of the alaskans that I built at 31.5 inches to shoot from a 63# wes wallace bow @ 30" draw length. with the 70 grain brass insert + 20 grain insert weight and 125 grain steel force 2 blade, wraps and 5 inch shield cut feathers, my arrows only weighed in @ about 650 grains. I couldn't get the bare shafts to fly (at all)!!!! and only got mediocre flight when at last i removed the brass up front and replaced with aluminum. The way you describe your setup i would say the alaskans would be severely under spined. at least that is my experience. go with the safaris.
I have 18 of the alaskans that I built at 31.5 inches to shoot from a 63# wes wallace bow @ 30" draw length. with the 70 grain brass insert + 20 grain insert weight and 125 grain steel force 2 blade, wraps and 5 inch shield cut feathers, my arrows only weighed in @ about 650 grains. I couldn't get the bare shafts to fly (at all)!!!! and only got mediocre flight when at last i removed the brass up front and replaced with aluminum. The way you describe your setup i would say the alaskans would be severely under spined. at least that is my experience. go with the safaris.
Same for me,I find the Alaskan a little bit under spined for my BW 57# recurve and for my Blacktail VL 61# arrow 29# standard brass insert and 125 BH
ak3blade---I am not clear as to the problem you experienced with the inserts--were the shafts not cut squarely before the inserts were installed? Or are you referring to the angle between the taperd adapter and the broadhead? I just took my shafts to the local shop and had them cut to length with a regular arrow cutoff saw.
Some tips I picked up may help. A fellow ganger mentioned that plastic wrap would hold an insert well enough for tuning purposes. I tried it, and found that a narrow strip (3/16-1/4 inch) draped over the back end of the insert as it was pushed in worked well. It held while pulling filed points out of 3 different types of foam targets, yet could be purposefully pulled out using a standard threaded insert tool.
I glued my inserts in with JB Weld----and found that impact on solid stumps broke the rigid bond on several arrows: the shafts were not damaged, but the insert backed out. I cleaned them up with a small file and re-installed them with Quick-Stik ( a new hot-melt from Kustom King)---so far this have held up fine---I think the material is resilient enough to withstand the impact.
jscturkey----I think 1shot1bull is probably correct ---The Alaskans may be underspined for your set up---esp. if you bow is centershot. I am using them on a longbow--56# at 27 inch draw---cut off to 28 in. ---with 225 gr. of head screwed into the 70 gr. insert, and 4 5in fletch. I am presently experimenting with an increase to 250---but I think I have problably reached the limit. The things sure fly right, I have lost a few, but have not broken one yet (except the one I hit broadside with a Hex head---that was one charmed, but very scared, squirrel). Hope this helps your decision.
You guys need to check out this thread:
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=070146#000000
You'll need 5/16" doweling and if you make the parallel section of the footing a bit longer with overall length say 10", you can drop down one spine group for a lighter aft section but same total weight for some serious FOC and the most bullet proof setup you've ever seen....O.L.
http://shop.****.com/merchant/bowhuntingstuff
as cheap as $99 for a dozen or if you get lucky,sometimes they will auction and will be alot cheaper. Just got me a dozen in an auction for $55 14 gpi in the 600 spine.
**** = ****
**** + e_bay
Yolla Bolly, I switched to Beman MFX 400's. But thanks for your help.
i do not think the grizzzly stick is a bad arrow. i just think the carbon exp. heritage is a better arrow. i have shot both out of 4 different bows.
both shoot well for me. however the CE was much more durable. i think we get cought up to much on others hype.
for the extra cost of the GS i would expect it to give me better vision and reduce the shake in my hands.
good luck to you.
j
I think your right Little Jon. I've seen the grizzly stix take a little abuse and they couldn't handle it, but it was when they first came out.I hunt with the carbon express and they are tough.I watched my father shoot at a ptarmigan at 8 yrds and miss,he hit the rock behind him (with a 65lb long bow).He walked over picked up the arrow found the nock and kept shooting.They are heavy and durable.Just another option for a heavy durable hunting arrow!