What am I doing wrong? If I did'nt have an armguard my arm would be shredded by now. I can feel (and hear) the string hit the armguard every time I shoot. I have a feeling of a fairly consistant form, but I am doing something wrong for sure. I have no video or pictures of my self shooting, but hope someone can give a few pointers.
Center of the bow grip on the pad of the thumb (thenar eminence), bow hand knuckles 45* out from the bow, bow arm elbow rotated so the "boney" point of the elbow points behind you not down (elbow pronated).
This is usually caused by too much hand on the grip and elbow in a poor position. Start looking for a thread here on the shooter's form forum called "grip question"
Arne
Will do. Thanks Arne. Read another thread in here about string slap, and I think some of my problem might be recurve-habit related.
Grip....string torque. ..or bow torque.
I can shoot my recurves all day without an armguard, the longbow is another story. It doesn't hit hard but there is usually a slight impact on my wrist. Might just be brace height.
Went outside another trip after reading about that "recurve-syndrome", to fling a couple of arrows. Held the bow i a tighter grip this time, and it seems to help a bit. The string still hits me about three to four inches above the wrist. I probably will have to film myself while shooting to find out what's wrong.
Can you video yourself.
This has always been a brace height issue for me. Sure the brace height is high enough?
Terry, I will get back with a video in a while.
Etter, I have adjusted the brace height from 7" to 7" 1/4 without that helping much. the bow is recommended with a 7" brace from factory.
Those are long limbs and low poundage.
Higher brace and are they fastflight rated?
Those are long limbs and low poundage.
Higher brace and are they fastflight rated?
QuoteOriginally posted by hart2hart:
Those are long limbs and low poundage.
Higher brace and are they fastflight rated?
As said, my brace height is increased from 7" to 7,25". It is not recommended to set it higher than 7,5". The string is a hybrid FF string (Bearpaw whisper string), so the limbs can take FastFlite.
same as me! I am shooting this new to me Great Northern Super Ghost and Im slapping the crap out of my arm. Granted I have not adjusted brace yet, Im waiting on a better stringer before I unstring it, plus Im getting a new string as well. But my brace can go up another 1/4 inch.
VA, what is the specs on your bow?
51# @ 28. I pull to 27. 60" Great Northern Super Ghost brace 7 1/4- 7.5
So the problem I' m having isn't related to long limbs and low poundage. Your bow is 6" shorter and 14# heavier than mine, and you are struggling with the same problem I am.
yep....
my gues is brace and grip
Yeah. I've contacted the guy I bought the Cayuga from, and he invited me to pop by for a little crash course. I will do that as soon as I find the time. He and his wife are excellent shooters, she is actually sesong best in the world in her class. Humble but great folks. If the admins will allow it, I will mention Ola Klopbakken and Nina Standerholen at Tradbow.no for excellent service for Norwegian tradshooters.
very cool. Any hunting in Norway? I know lots of places in Europe do not allow bow hunting.
String slap is almost always a form issue, unless you are shooting a really low brace height (like 6"-6.5") longbow. Check out Arne's (Moebow) videos on Youtube.
Im pretty sure for me it's a combination of grip/torque and bad form
VA, no bowhunting in Norway. And it doesn't look like there gonnna be any in the nearest future.
Mahantango, I know it is a form issue. My problem is that I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
I shall study Arne's pictures of the grip, and will try it out this weekend.
This is a fantastic site!
that's a shame. It's in our DNA to hunt.
Took out the recurve this morning, and what do you know? No string slap! Took a couple of video shots, and found som clear errors in my string arm. I move my elbow in an arc during the draw, and end up with my elbow in line with the arrow but my forearm is too high. Got to look some more on Arne's videos, and try to correct this.
And now the Cayuga has been out for testing Arne's grip teaching, and this is just amazing. The string slap disappeared! I still have some issues form-wise, but the slap is gone. Thanks Arne!
Glad it's helping Trond. Keep with it, it does take a while to become natural.
PM answered.
Arne
If your bow shoulder is close too close to your chin, there is not enough space. Think of a triangle, like a clothes hanger with three sides. The bottom is the arrow and the other is the bow arm to the bow and other alignment of the shoulders. What happens when the bow arm and shoulder are set down and back, it is easier for the string to clear the arm. The earlier discussion about the placement of the bow hand and elbow are also important.
Another problem develops when trying to increase draw length by aligning the shoulders and bow arm in a straight line. This may enable a person to increase their draw length beyond their "natural" draw length, but it will cause the same problem.
Is it possible to see something here?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37243932/Video%2014.02.15%2C%2013.56.51.mov
Trond,
Just watched your video, you have a good shot. How is that bow hand feeling? It looks pretty good too.
Here is what I see that I think you should work on. Watch your string hand when you release. Look where it ends up. See how it pops out from your face and stops in the air straight out from your shoulder? This is the result of an arm draw (which is OK) but you aren't getting the weight transferred into your back.
Try this, As you release, try to move your string elbow sharply back (90degrees to the arrow line) like you just got out of a car with your hands full and wanted to close the car door with your elbow. It takes a pretty good push with the elbow to close a relatively heavy car door and that is the movement you want at release.
If/when you do this, you will find your string hand moving straight back along your cheek and stopping in the air just behind your ear.
Think, "keep the string fingers curled, CLOSE the car door!"
See if that helps.
Arne
Thanks, Arne.
My bow arm feels much more right after I adopted the way you teach. I will start working on my string arm now. Did you notice my head? I don't notice it when I shoot, but if you look you will see that my head moves back with my stringhand when I anchor. I try to keep my head still, but this happens more often than not.
Anyway, from now on I will close the car door.
Hello,
So let me start off by saying I've searched all over and find this to be the right place for this question, anyway,
I have had a 1958 bear recurve at 60" pulling 48# for the last 4 years and have only been shooting with it when I first got it, and recently been getting back and practicing on the reg. Probably less than 50 arrows from it since i took ownership. I am having problems with brace height and nocking point. Even with many twists its only at like seven and three-quarter inches. Fistmele is right at 7", but I've read recurves go up to nine inches so I'm wondering if this type of bow has a low brace height relative to other recurve bows? It was doing well anywhere from 7.25"-8" and anything over that just feels like too much. My arrows are porpoising and going into target tails down like ten or fifteen degrees lower than 90 degrees if it went in straight. Just a slight fishtail to the right just a few degrees.
Also, it seems like I need to find the best nocking point and want to move it about, what should I use for a temporary nock which won't slide around too much?
Thanks!
Im new at this too, but have done a lot of shooting with mine and had some great help on here. Here goes...What is the recommended brace height for that bow? I was told to start at the low end and work up. You will know when you hit the sweet spot. I used to think I wouldn't know, but if you shoot a lot you will hear it and feel it. From what have researched it seems 7-8" brace is best. Somewhere in there is the spot. As far as nock height. From what I learned, if you shoot 3 fingers under then start the nock 3/4 of in above level. Split finger start at 1/2" above level. You can tie on a nock using dental floss or go and buy some brass nocks. I like the floss. If you search on youtube there is an easy explanation how to tie one, and did it, and I can, anyone can. When you move it, don't move far. It only seems to take just a bump. I may be wrong about this, but it worked for me. Hopefully someone with way more knowledge will chime in.
Here is a few new clips. Please give me feedback.
Front left (https://www.dropbox.com/s/zd36h9ee9v468lq/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.40.36.mov?dl=0)
Front (https://www.dropbox.com/s/3zuly5xctgkpmpo/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.43.52.mov?dl=0)
Front low (https://www.dropbox.com/s/9xxrbdr0qmbhh0g/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.46.42.mov?dl=0)
Behind left (https://www.dropbox.com/s/y9ifg9gzw9n5zti/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.48.53.mov?dl=0)
Front right (https://www.dropbox.com/s/lsdjgmkoxvetff9/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.54.39.mov?dl=0)
Behind right (https://www.dropbox.com/s/k4y7qujxk5cez3k/video%2022.02.15%2C%2013.52.06.mov?dl=0)
Oops. A little mix-up of right and left here... But you get the picture, right? ;)
Trond,
That is looking pretty good overall. I'd now suggest that you watch your head movement. In your videos, can you see how as you reach full draw, you turn your head to the right and lay it over a little?
When you lift your head (before you start the draw) set it in position and then draw to your head. DO NOT "cuddle up" to the string after reaching full draw. It is that little head movement that makes so many end up with the string hitting their nose. Plus it changes your posture making you a little less stable.
Pretty nice shot execution though!!
Arne
Thanks, Arne. Your feedback is most appreciated. I'm aware of my head movement, and I'm trying to correct it. Don't know why I do it, though. It's that and a consistant release that's on my high priority list now. And for the record, the string DO hot my nose from time to time.